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PATHFINDER95NI

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Everything posted by PATHFINDER95NI

  1. Put in a new loaded strut due to wallowed out strut mount that I installed a year ago. I noticed Monroe put the spacer ON TOP of the strut mount. Last year I put the spacer UNDER the mount. Has anybody else made this mistake?
  2. I actually resolved this. It was a combination of lack of grease and some debris blocking the track.
  3. The title pretty much sums this up. Truck has 235k miles. The sunroof was working fine until it didn’t. The motor sounds fine and the rails are well greased and nothing in its way. There’s no binding sounds, it just sounds like it normally would when at the fully open/closed position. I took the motor out to inspect for missing teeth, but there’s just dust and normal looking teeth. After a bit of research it sounds like it might be a position sensor issue. I’ve looked at the reset procedures and they all start with the assumption of the sunroof being fully closed. I cannot for the life of me force the sunroof closed without worrying about shattering the glass. Do you guys have any ideas?
  4. I appreciate the reply guys. I will just be going to the junkyard and swapping seats, see what fits. Ill start w the same year Maxima and go from there. Thanks again!
  5. Gentlemen, I have a 99LE that needs new seats. I’ve looked through the junkyard for a few months and all the seats I find are in the same condition. So that got me to wondering, I wonder if any of Nissan‘s other models seats would fit the Pathfinders? Has anybody tried this? I would think that maybe the Maxima or the Altima would be the best choice, but of course there is the Quest. What do you guys think?
  6. When I swapped an LS into my 95 Suburban, I found a LM7 for $450 at a salvage yard, a harness for $45 on Craigslist, and I already had my tranny so I didnt need that. My Suburban needs yearly smogging and it passed with flying colors. My trick was, I took it in late on a Friday afternoon, one of the last cars to get tested. I figured its friday afternoon, all the seasoned guys are outta there, it should be a breeze. It was. I passed no problem. Of course the new engine tested much cleaner then the old unit, so that helped. The LS will test cleaner then any VG/VQ engine, so I wouldnt be too worried.
  7. Im the same way, Im about as loyal to GM as they are to me. A 302 in a Triumph? Mmmm, an LS w/dry sump sounds better😋 I am going to start a new thread, instead of continuing to hijack the OPs thread. But I did want to share this before I go. It is a couple LS motors sitting next to a VQ motor. The LS motor is indeed a mouse motor when compared to the VQ. Hmm, cant figure out how to post a pic from my phone. Thats ok, its gonna be in my new thread.
  8. Yeah, its terrible. I can take low HP, but the fuel consumption should be inline with the power. I thinking the all aluminum block, the Nissan electric fans, and the 6spd AUTO will help fuel economy get into the 20's with ease. Things like displacement on demand could be a bonus, but Ive heard it can be temperamental. Yeah 16 is my high, in the 5yrs Ive had this, Ive never seen 19mpg. No matter how miserly I drive it. You should take a serious look at it, with a 6spd manual, I think the MPG's could be even higher. The only thing that gives me pause is the rusty strut mounts. Ive taken a look at mine, they look fine. Id have to look into them more in depth before I committed to a swap. Now heres a guy to put an old 350 in an R50. The LS is physically smaller then the 350, so I'm thinking the LS swap is looking more and more feasible. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGhEpa-IfYM
  9. I edited my last post. I meant to put a emoticon at the end of the first sentence. True, GM did fskc up in the past and still to this day. Honestly, I would rather them gone out of business then getting bailed out. But they did hit it out of the park with the LS motor. Power is not the main concern, MPG is at the top of the list. I just cannot stand how bad the 3.3's fuel economy is. Even at 16-19mpg, I'm not happy, especially with the lack of power. I'm thinking with an LS swap and 6spd AUTO, I should be touching 20 in the city maybe 24-26 on the highway. I'm really looking forward to that.
  10. Well opinions are like assholes, everybody has one. Where do you get your info from? Everywhere Ive read, they have praised the reliability of the motor. Post your info, Id like to see what you are referring to.
  11. I appreciate the suggestion, and understand about keeping a Nissan truck all Nissan, but the truth of the matter is the LS motor is the bargain of the two. The aftermarket has wider support and the initial buy in will be much cheaper. I plan on buying a donor truck from Copar for dirt cheap and then parting it out. Not to mention the LS is a much tighter package. Ive seen an LS next to a 3.5, and there is no contest.
  12. Im looking at doing the same. I have a 99 w/a 3.3. The gas mileage of a V8, with the power of a 4cyl. LS is the way Im going. The 3.3 and 3.5 are just terrible engines when you take power and fuel economy into account. The LS is a sweet motor, but shoehorning it in seems daunting. That is until I saw GMs LV3🤔 285hp/310tq, and its shorter then a LS. That and a 4wd 6L80E would be tits. What do you guys think? Brakes would have to be a consideration. I want all OEM equipment. That means scouring the interwebs for info on swaps from Patrols, Xterras, Armada/Pathfinders. Electric fans would be a must, again looking for OEM. Youll be wanting to source Corvette/Camaro accessory brackets, they are quite narrow. There is a plethora of oil pans to choose from. I dont believe this swap will be as expensive and difficult as everyone thinks. Ive done an LS swap before, and in the end it was the engine harness integration that was the most difficult. http://gmauthority.com/blog/gm/gm-engines/lv3/
  13. Well the radio in my '99 is giving up the ghost, so I'm looking for a new head unit. I'm looking for OEM, aftermarket is too flashy and too many buttons. How much newer can I install before the harness plugs don't match? Anything? Found this, originally for '05-'07 Fontier/Xterras. The plugs match the 1999 radio. The only problem is the orange backlighting. https://m.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-Xterra-Frontier-Rockford-Fosgate-Radio-6-Disc-Changer-MP3-CD-Player-AUX/172824848018?fits=Year%3A2005%7CMake%3ANissan&epid=566142261&hash=item283d29e692:g:BaMAAMXQaBRRjB~0
  14. I need to replace the hinges on my trucks drivers side front door and hinge pins on the passenger door. Whats the best way to go about this? From what it looks like, and written in this thread, the front fender has to come off? Really? Just to change out the hinges? Is there any other way to go about this? Thanks, Nick
  15. Sorry for being absent so long after asking a question guys but Ive been busy with work and finding a solution for the 'Finder. Well thanks for the all the replies, but I was able to get the key cut after all! Yup, after all the searching high and low I call to order a new drivers door lock cylinder (thats the lock the key was broken in, and now cant be removed) and after talking with the parts person, she tells me to call 1.800.NISSAN1. SO IF ANYONE NEEDS A KEY CUT, JUST CALL 1.800.NISSAN1 AND THEY WILL BE ABLE TO GET YOUR KEY CODE IF YOU HAVE A VIN AND ARE AT THE DEALERSHIP. Thanks again! Nick
  16. Yup, some younger, inexperienced hands broke off my OE key in the door and now I need a new key. I have called all the Nissan shops/dealers and they have said that the code has been erased. I am looking at taking out a door cylinder and having that redone but I was wondering if there are any other steps that I may have overlooked. Thanks all! Nick
  17. Yeah I think the 3.3 would be a waste of time. Nissan made a HUGE improvement when they shifted to the 4L. Ill check the garage section, see what I can find. Nick
  18. Yeah Ive talked with a few friends and they have said the same thing, "While you're down there you might as well fix xxxxxx". But I am looking to replace both the engine and tranny with a Xterra engine/tranny swap so for now its just going to be the TOB thats going to be replaced. What I meant is has someone swapped out the stock Pathy engine with an Xterra combo yet. Thanks, fixed that. No I dont have the FSM, I just have a Haynes manual. Thanks for the hint, Ill take a look around. Check, thanks! Yeah Im not too worried about the bolts, four years ago I swapped in some Thorleys and used some ARP stainless bolts with anti-sieze compound on there. Thanks to all for the replies, when I do attempt this Ill let you all know how it goes. Best Regards, Nick
  19. How goes it all? Well the Pathy is starting to make that noise and now I must replace the bearing. To all of you that have replaced theirs, how hard is it? Nothings going to scare me off from doing it, I just want to know exactly what Im getting into. One more thing, has anyone yet replaced the 3l/5sp combo with a 4l/6spd combo yet? Im really close to making that happen, time just hasnt been on my side lately. Anyway thanks in advance for the help! Nick
  20. Yeah I did the same on my '92 Ranger. With the Ranger though I didnt have six connections splicing into the positive cable. Plus the new one looks alot better then what I would have done, with all the splicing and whatnot that had to be done. And I like my parts to fit...exactly, not some shade tree thing I would have mucked up. Nick
  21. Yeah it was a PITA. It snowed here in Denver a few days ago and while I was under the truck all that acumulated snow was just dripping down on me. Where at on the framerail did it rub through at? Id like to know that way I can double check, maybe see if I over looked that. Nick
  22. Hey guys whats goin on? Well usually Im here asking for help but I just replaced the positive cable and took some pics and thought I would share the process with you all. I checked out prices here in the Denver area and all prices were in the range of $80-$89. I looked online and came up with an online Nissan parts store. The price I got from them was $56.22 along with a shipping charge of $9.52 but in the box was also the right front parking lamp I ordered. They were thirty bucks less then here in Denver so I went with them. The website is www.nissanparts2u.com, in case anyone wanted to know. The harness I got (5spd, 4x4, opt. shocks) had the part number of B411088G83. You dont need to worry about disconnecting the battery since you will be replacing the positive cable anyway. My Pathfinders cable was deteriorating so badly that as I was driving the truck would just die. This was from the OEM clamp no longer having any tension to the battery post and just falling off. This is what I started out with: http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f372/CHE...NI/IMGP3227.jpg (those are my thorleys in the backround) http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f372/CHE...NI/IMGP3228.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f372/CHE...NI/IMGP3230.jpg The disconnection of the plugs connected to the positive harness was a little tough considering they had been connected for over twelve years. The toughest one was the one next to the starter. You guys will be pissed when you get to that one. I didnt get a picture of it but its located at the starters 1 o'clock, above the starter and near the block. Anyway just go down the line and disconnect the plugs as you go. Connected to the oil pan lip is a 10mm screw that holds the harness in place, this is the only one. When you get to removing the harness from the starter you need to first remove the oil filter. I know it sounds like a drag, it is, but it has to be done. Plus since you know this now, plan it around your oil change! Then you have three connections, the battery to starter connection (thats a 12mm nut), the oil pressure sending unit, and the hard to remove connection at the 1 o'clock. On my new harness, the truck is a 5spd 4x4, it had two extra connectors. These were not used at all. One is located by the two connectors closest to the battery and one is located down by the starter. As stated before these were not used, not even on, the old harness so I just taped the tight onto the harness. After the harness was ran I made sure nothing was close to the headers or near any moving parts. I tightened down all the nuts and finally connected the battery end and double checked the connections and location of the harness. The truck started up like nothing even happened. So this is a fairly straight forward job that only took me two hours. The only hard part is some of the connections, namely the one going to the passenger side shock, and the one that is near the starter. Also there was alot of sand and dirt in all of the connections so I made sure to put some dielectic grease on all the connections. This is what the job looked like afterwards: http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f372/CHE...NI/IMGP3239.jpg Here is a pic of OEM and a pic of upgraded/updated OEM http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f372/CHE...NI/IMGP3237.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f372/CHE...NI/IMGP3236.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f372/CHE...NI/IMGP3239.jpg Well I hope this helps anyone out there. Thanks to the members for being so helpfull when I was asking questions. Nick PS - I still have the positive cable harness if anyone is interested. I dont want any money for it, you just pay the shipping or come and pick it up.
  23. I do understand that the tranny would be going, I didnt thinkt he t-case had to go also. It does make sense though, the new engine has more HP. Just in case anyone was wonder, I probably would replace the rear end with either a Ford or GM 8" unit to handle the new amount of HP. So what is the deal with the new VQs tranny and t-case? Are they in a different position, are they larger in physical side? Hell I would think they would drop right in, even with some minor sheetmetal adjustment. So this Nissan V8, what Nissan engine nomenclature is it? A V8 would be nice, but I think it would take way more time and money then a VQ40DE. You would have to do something to fool the ECU into thinking there was a auto still connected, because Im sticking to manual tranny, no autos for me. Nick
  24. Hey guys any luck on this? Ive been thinking about getting a new Xterra lately, but with all the problems they are having with QC and especially the front and rear ends, I think I am going to stick with the Pathy. But since the 3 has never been a powerhouse, even with the Thorleys on, Ive been thinking of stepping up to the VQ40DE with the 6spd. Has anyone done this yet? I have no problems being the first to do it, I just need the cash. So when the cash comes I will be on here posting how it goes. Untill then good luck to anyone that takes on the challenge. Nick
  25. Simon Could you do us all a favor and let us know how to go about this cheaper and with better quality? I am considering Calmini but if there is a cheaper better product out there I would like to know. Thanks Nick

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