PATHFINDER95NI

How goes it all? Well the Pathy is starting to make that noise and now I must replace the bearing. To all of you that have replaced theirs, how hard is it? Nothings going to scare me off from doing it, I just want to know exactly what Im getting into. One more thing, has anyone yet replaced the 3l/5sp combo with a 4l/6spd combo yet? Im really close to making that happen, time just hasnt been on my side lately. Anyway thanks in advance for the help! Nick

Yeah I did the same on my '92 Ranger. With the Ranger though I didnt have six connections splicing into the positive cable. Plus the new one looks alot better then what I would have done, with all the splicing and whatnot that had to be done. And I like my parts to fit...exactly, not some shade tree thing I would have mucked up. Nick

Yeah it was a PITA. It snowed here in Denver a few days ago and while I was under the truck all that acumulated snow was just dripping down on me. Where at on the framerail did it rub through at? Id like to know that way I can double check, maybe see if I over looked that. Nick

Hey guys whats goin on? Well usually Im here asking for help but I just replaced the positive cable and took some pics and thought I would share the process with you all. I checked out prices here in the Denver area and all prices were in the range of $80-$89. I looked online and came up with an online Nissan parts store. The price I got from them was $56.22 along with a shipping charge of $9.52 but in the box was also the right front parking lamp I ordered. They were thirty bucks less then here in Denver so I went with them. The website is www.nissanparts2u.com, in case anyone wanted to know. The harness I got (5spd, 4x4, opt. shocks) had the part number of B411088G83. You dont need to worry about disconnecting the battery since you will be replacing the positive cable anyway. My Pathfinders cable was deteriorating so badly that as I was driving the truck would just die. This was from the OEM clamp no longer having any tension to the battery post and just falling off. This is what I started out with: http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f372/CHE...NI/IMGP3227.jpg (those are my thorleys in the backround) http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f372/CHE...NI/IMGP3228.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f372/CHE...NI/IMGP3230.jpg The disconnection of the plugs connected to the positive harness was a little tough considering they had been connected for over twelve years. The toughest one was the one next to the starter. You guys will be pissed when you get to that one. I didnt get a picture of it but its located at the starters 1 o'clock, above the starter and near the block. Anyway just go down the line and disconnect the plugs as you go. Connected to the oil pan lip is a 10mm screw that holds the harness in place, this is the only one. When you get to removing the harness from the starter you need to first remove the oil filter. I know it sounds like a drag, it is, but it has to be done. Plus since you know this now, plan it around your oil change! Then you have three connections, the battery to starter connection (thats a 12mm nut), the oil pressure sending unit, and the hard to remove connection at the 1 o'clock. On my new harness, the truck is a 5spd 4x4, it had two extra connectors. These were not used at all. One is located by the two connectors closest to the battery and one is located down by the starter. As stated before these were not used, not even on, the old harness so I just taped the tight onto the harness. After the harness was ran I made sure nothing was close to the headers or near any moving parts. I tightened down all the nuts and finally connected the battery end and double checked the connections and location of the harness. The truck started up like nothing even happened. So this is a fairly straight forward job that only took me two hours. The only hard part is some of the connections, namely the one going to the passenger side shock, and the one that is near the starter. Also there was alot of sand and dirt in all of the connections so I made sure to put some dielectic grease on all the connections. This is what the job looked like afterwards: http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f372/CHE...NI/IMGP3239.jpg Here is a pic of OEM and a pic of upgraded/updated OEM http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f372/CHE...NI/IMGP3237.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f372/CHE...NI/IMGP3236.jpg http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f372/CHE...NI/IMGP3239.jpg Well I hope this helps anyone out there. Thanks to the members for being so helpfull when I was asking questions. Nick PS - I still have the positive cable harness if anyone is interested. I dont want any money for it, you just pay the shipping or come and pick it up.

I do understand that the tranny would be going, I didnt thinkt he t-case had to go also. It does make sense though, the new engine has more HP. Just in case anyone was wonder, I probably would replace the rear end with either a Ford or GM 8" unit to handle the new amount of HP. So what is the deal with the new VQs tranny and t-case? Are they in a different position, are they larger in physical side? Hell I would think they would drop right in, even with some minor sheetmetal adjustment. So this Nissan V8, what Nissan engine nomenclature is it? A V8 would be nice, but I think it would take way more time and money then a VQ40DE. You would have to do something to fool the ECU into thinking there was a auto still connected, because Im sticking to manual tranny, no autos for me. Nick

Hey guys any luck on this? Ive been thinking about getting a new Xterra lately, but with all the problems they are having with QC and especially the front and rear ends, I think I am going to stick with the Pathy. But since the 3 has never been a powerhouse, even with the Thorleys on, Ive been thinking of stepping up to the VQ40DE with the 6spd. Has anyone done this yet? I have no problems being the first to do it, I just need the cash. So when the cash comes I will be on here posting how it goes. Untill then good luck to anyone that takes on the challenge. Nick

Simon Could you do us all a favor and let us know how to go about this cheaper and with better quality? I am considering Calmini but if there is a cheaper better product out there I would like to know. Thanks Nick

Well here in Colorado its been snowing. The 'finder has not been stuck once, but one thing has been bugging me. The tailgate will not stay up, at all! During the day it partialy stays open, at night they might as well not be there at all! So I talked to a cousin that had a '95 and he said he replaced them with this part number:90450.41G12. He told me they made all the difference in the world. Has anyone else experience these? I am still looking for some upgrades for the tailgate glass struts. As for the headlights. The NISMO catalog also lists Euro headlights for the Pathy. The part numbers are as follows: B6010.88G00 and B6060.88G00 The catalog does not discern which is L or R / D or P. Does anyone have experience with the Euro lights? Well have a good day. Nick

I put some Thorleys on my 'finder. Man do they make a difference. The finish on them is quite up to par. Hell they still look brand new to this day, and they have been in there almost two years! I went with Three inch exhaust from the headers to the cat and then squeezed it down to 2.5" for the Borla system. As for the Borlas, Im not that impressed. I think you can do better with a different brand or setup one yourself. I notice that if I have the truck loaded up the exhaust bangs ont the undercarrage alot. Here is the link so you can check them out. http://new.photos.yahoo.com/chevel67ni/alb...460762367938052 So for me, I would go with the Thorleys. Nick PS - The exhaust shop in Denver told me that emission laws allowed removal of one of the Pathys cats so now I have one large 3" high flow cat!

Good reading there. I was following that project up untill Mike abruptly stopped it but some how I missed the headlight conversion. Ill see if I can find his email and get his comments on how he liked the conversion. Nick

Excellent, so its showing they still are being manufactured. Is there a way you know of on how to get them into the States since Nissan doesnt seem to want to do it/ Nick

Yes, yes you are right, a very important fact to bring up. I live in Denver and we dont have any of those inspections so Im not worried at all about that. From what I have read most of those type of inspections are in the northeast. Thanks for bringing that one up. Nick

http://www.capriceshop.com/HEADLITE.HTM http://www.c5forum.com/diy/eurolights.php These two sites should show clearly enough the benefits of E-code headlights. No the question is, how can they be gotten into the US. Nick

I havent seen the specs on this exact headlight, but I have seen write ups on Volvo, Saab, Corvette, and Impala headlights and every single one has said that the E-code (or ECE) headlights are a huge improvement over the DOT headlights. One of the reasons that the headlights are so good is because there is a distinct horizon that the headlights have that keep the light on the road instead of up in oncoming drivers eyes. I guess the reason that DOT headlights have so much glare is because DOT requires that the headlights have just enough light to light up overhead highway signs. I guess them being lit already is redundent ? Anyway I figure E-code headlights are good all around. I did call a dealership yesterday and they had to call Nissan NA. The guy called me back and said that Nissan NA will not ship the E-Code lights into the US if the vehicle did not already come with them. I have a cousin that is living in Japan so Im gonna give him a call to see if maybe he can get his hands on them. 5523 Can your dealership get them in? I tried your website and put the PNs in and got nothing. So the headlights are $150 through your dealership? Thanks Nick

Are you sure thats right? I called Nissan and they told me the struts were $150 each. Nick

OK GUYS I WAS GOING THROUGH AN OLDER NISSAN MOTORSPORTS CATALOG AND FOUND THESE PART NUMBERS FOR EUROPEAN SPEC (E-SPEC) PATHFINDER HEADLIGHTS: B6060-88G00 - PATHFINDER EURO HEADLAMP B6010-88G00 - PATHFINDER EURO HEADLAMP I DONT HAVE THE PRICE ON THESE AS OF YET, BUT ONCE THE DEALER GETS BACK WITH ME ILL POST THE PRICE. HERE IS THE PART NUMBER FOR THE E-SPEC TAILGATE STRUT: 90450-41G12 - COLD WEATHER STRUT (non - U.S) THIS STRUT IS FOR THOSE OF US THAT LIVE IN THE COLDER STATES. YOU PROBABLY HAVE NOTICED THAT WHEN THE WEATHER GETS COLD YOUR STRUTS WONT HOLD OPEN THE TAILGATE, AND PROBABLY HAVE HIT YOUR HEAD ONCE OR TWICE! ANYWAY THESE STRUTS WILL SOLVE THE PROBLEM. I CALLED A LOCAL DEALERSHIP AND THE PRICE IS $150 FOR EACH. THEY WILL TELL YOU ITS NOT A GOOD NUMBER BUT JUST BE PERSISTANT. IF ITS A FEMALE ASK TO SPEAK WITH A MALE COUNTER PERSON. NICK

Yeah, thats nice. I also like how it goes between the fogs and turn signals. The one I have now goes right over the fog lights. Do you have a part number? Another thing, do you have a problem with approach angles? How much clearence do you have between the bottom of the guard and the ground? Although this is more of what I was looking for: http://www.gorhino.com/rhino-charger.html This is the style I was looking for, something like this would be less willing to dig into the grond when landing then the one above. Thats what Im trying to avoid here. Nick

Thanks for the replies guys, but I dont really need anything that heavy duty (although they do look sweet, and would be nice to have anyway) all I really need is a light bar, or even a bracket to mount the lights on to. I have been looking at a few companies (Manik, Westin, GoRhino, etc.) but have found nothing for the Pathfinder. Nick

Gentlemen I am looking at getting a new grille guard. The one I have now mounts to where the original tow hooks mounted, is way too close to the ground, and really reduced the approach angle. So I was wondering if anyone out there as a good manufactuer to go to. Any ideas? Thanks Nick

Nope havent touched the bars at all, I assume they are at their factory settings. What is the proper way to adjust them, and how do I know when enough is enough? The reason I ask is because I heard that cranking on them too much will change steering geometry and even fatigue them. Thanks Nick

Gentlemen My 95 Pathfinder (5spd) is starting too look a little low in the front end. I was wondering how much new torsion bars cost and what is the maximum height I can get out of them. Im not looking for a cheap lift, just a temporary minor lift when I go out on the trails. It seems like on the trail I am hitting the rocks just barely, so a new set of tires and maybe new torsion bars would be the fix. Thanks Nick

Yeah I appreicate it man, the Chevelle was one sweet machine. I had it tricked out with Edelbrock shocks, Hotchkis TVS (1.5" swaybar front, 1.25" rear, boxed trailing arms) new Eaton springs, Richmond 3.73:1, Eaton posi, etc. Unfortunately on January 8th some theifs thought they would rather see the car sitting in their carport rather than mine. It was sitting for three months, being winter and all, so I think they staked it out and found the perfect night to take it on. Its ok though it helped me buy a house, so some day Ill spring for another one. Plus I have a 1971 Caprice 2dr HT w/396 BBC in that was owned by a little old lady untill I bought last fall. Another project. That is one sweet Laguna. Man that looks tough in black, with those A-Team style wheels. Nice car! Nick

Yeah I was planning on getting a second opinion. The sound only happens when I am decelerating in second and first gear. It kind of sounds likes the 4x4 system is halfway engaged. Nick

Here are the pics. http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/chevel67ni/my_photos Nick

Well I have been out a few times where I was thinking that the low gear is not really so low, but that happens maybe ten trips a year. The price does seem to be pretty expensive for gears. Yeah Im not sure why the T-case went out, kinda seems like that would be that last thing to be rebuilt since its not used as much. Nick