msavides

I already have my bumpers. But how about an option to make the bumpers an Air Tank. That would include a Interior finish to prevent rust, a PRV and a clean convenient spot for an air hose fitting.

Stupid autozone web site. Yea it was the expansion valve http://www.autozone.com/R,1825361/vehicleI...oductDetail.htm Mark

He Azscott. This is your problem. My old 1990 pathfinder was doing the same thing as yours, It can be thought of as a clogg. This thing has an orifice that opens and closes to let the freon into the evaporator. It has a temp probe that will open and close the orifice depending on the temperature in the evaporator. It is a bit of work to replace (have to pull the box) and you will have to discharge the entire system. I did the repair myself but then again I have a friend with all the equipment. At least Knowing how much the part costs will help you not get screwed on the repair. http://www.autozone.com/R,1440377/vehicleI...oductDetail.htm Mark Edit: Just saw that mws suggested the same thing. Right on the money!! another thing to take note of. If your evaporator is full of leaves (common problem) your evaporator will freeze up and cause the expansion valve to close down (this is normal operation for the expansion valve) due to limited air flow warming the evaporator. I noticed my evaporator was full of crap when I pulled the box to replace the valve.

I changed my atf in my 2 other cars and noted a difference in Gas mileage. I was not able to make 2 trips to work and back. after i changed the ATF to royal purple synthetic, I was able to make 2 trips to work and back plus have some fuel still in my tank. I am a Highly recommend it. Note I work 80 miles from home. I also noticed smoother shifts. My Pathfinder is a manual so it got the Redline mt90

Or maybe He just likes having the other hand free for doing other things! :tonguefinger:

to further elaborate on this, also inspect your caps. if they are worn through (like mine were) you should replace them. I think all four of them cost me like 7 bucks. I not sure if they are redesigned or not, My old ones were plastic and the new ones were plastic with a metal cover. My old ones could have had the metal covers at some point and they could have worn off. also Like Kiwipete said keep the metal channel greased. This check to make sure you still have grease on them every time you change the oil or go wheeling. if there is dirt in the grease wipe it away and put some fresh stuff on. this will slow down the wear on the new caps. Mark

\ Just a FYI. 1990-95 Pathfinders. Vail white did not have factory Clear coat. So if you have a white Pathy (like mine) no need to worry about Stripping away your clear coat(however be carefull not to strip away all of your paint ), It did not have any. Not sure if any other colors came without clear coat

actually you can put 2 caps on a lenght of pvc and put a air valve in it and pressurize it. that will keep it from calapsing when you heat it, I know many pool companies use pipe heaters to heat 2 in pvc and they can bend it like a pretzel, I am going to experiment with some pvc and see what i can do with bending it. should be a fun project. mark

So 2 inch PVC Is adequate to supply the amount of air needed? Looks like you heated and bent that semi straight piece of pvc. Why not heat and bend the hole piece of pipe and not use any fittings, one solid piece of pipe? Just curious. Was thinking about doing one on mine but wanted to see what size pipe other people were using for proper air flow. Mark

I must have missed this thread. Here is my efan mod. Gave me tons of room. I ran it with one fan for a while and it was just a hair under what was needed during a hot day wheeling, So Both are hooked up for good now. Fans are off of a 1987 Nissan Maxima, Fan controller is a Centech and uses the stock temp sender for input. Fan shroud covers the entire radiator and mounts to the side of the stock radiator (My radiator was not stock so some modification was necessary) just like the stock shroud if you have a body lift, If you do not have a body lift the lower frame of the fan support hits the steering box, however it can be easily modified. I still have to weld some tabs for the top two mounting holes for the shroud but they should not be necessary. These fans are cheap ant any wreaking yard, I paid 14 bucks for this one. the fan controller was 80 bucks.

there seemed to be a lot of play in the pinion so we tore it apart to check it, my shims and spacer was scored pretty bad. The PO had the abs sensor replaced and I don't think they tightened the nut up correctly. I replaced all the bearings since I had it apart just to make sure nothing else got damaged. we set the preload per factory service manual, it was tedious, but we got it right in the end (no pun intended) Mark

When I installed my ARB I bought about 70 bucks in shims. I bought the size that were in there and 2 sizes up and 2 sizes down. I did this cause I was also replacing All the bearings and wanted to make sure I had all the shims to do it right. It was the pinion shims that broke the bank. So I have a bunch of extra factory shims That I will never use.

Keep me posted on your progress. Did you do the hydro assist mod with the stock front axle? Mark

No stock steering here. I have the calmini HD steering.

I have just replaced the power steering pump. Twice, (original one was knocking and the first replacement one leaked) I thought I saw an article somewhere that someone did a hydro assist on the stock IFS with the stock Box drilling and tapping. They installed the ram onto the centerlink, much like a steering stabilizer. I will have to look for that article again and confirm that it was on IFS and not sased. Mark

I just replaced mine twice. Original pump was knocking (I thought it was my valves) Kragen has the part for $140.00. It is really simple to replace. First time took me about an hour, Second time took me about 15 min. The first one I bought stated leaking at the body seal. I noticed it a week after I installed it, I think I drove it like 10 miles. I went back and got another one and installed it. It started leaking that day a little bit. I then took it wheeling and put a few miles on it and it stopped leaking. (it was just a small leak) The seal must have to absorb some power steering fluid before it would seal. I don't know if that is true, But am am glad it stopped. If you have basic tools and are even just slightly mechanically inclined the you should have no problem with this repair. Mark

I think I am going to go with a hydro assist system. using the beefed up pump. I found out the pump mounts to the 91 pathfinders just fine and will work, however the pulley splined shaft is smaller. So I will have to get a pump and pulley from the junk yard. Then I will have to shell out the 3 bills for the hydro ram, and the 2 bills for the custom lines to run to the ram. I will have to pick up a steering box as well and drill it. I don't want my truck down during the prep work so I will just get one from the junkyard on Half price day. I will document the procedure, when I do it.

I thought the safety loop also added strength to the floor boards under the seat (at least thats what I was told) And by cutting it out do you mean unbolting it and not bolting it back up or doing some alteration and then bolting the altered loop back up? Mark

Mine was doing the same thing when I first got it. On mine it was the steering stops. I went to the dealer and bought 4 new caps for my steering stops. And it has not done it since. Mine only did it when I was turning and hit a bump. You can test this buy applying a little grease to the stops and the metal that the stop rubs on. If the noise goes away than it is probably your stops. You suppose to keep them greased anyways. another thing it could be If I remember correctly, there are 2 large bolts under the front end, I can't remember where exactly they were at. But they might be loose and causing a similar sound. Mine were tight and it had no effect on the noise. The noise I am talking about has been described as tearing metal, or screeching metal sound. Not sure if that is what your hearing. Mark

Good Idea. I will do that. I May not even need any clamps anymore. It has been there for a year now. Hopefully it is formed and will stay together. I chose the location based on the least amount of bend on the hoses. Even a closer location with larger kink in the hose will effect pressure more that overall length. My hoses are a sweep with not even the slightest kinking. I experimented with several locations and they resulted in bends that were too sharp for my liking. I know once it get put under pressure that it will be ok. But that initial prime may take its toll. Also since My filter is lower than the engine I do not have a problem with drain back. It takes more effort to pump up than down. Mark

Any thought on a retrofit, maybe welding in some cups and press fitting a couple bearings in. Might be a more permanent solution. Mark

I put mine the same place. No issues yet. Seems to be out of the way. I may make a small skid for it in the future. Mark

I just finished my Wheeling pack list along with my pre-wheeling rig checklist (can be found in garage section) Wheeling List First aid Kit Fire Extinguisher Tow Straps Winch accessories Motor oil Coolant WD40 Tools Gloves Jumper Cables Bungies Rope Flashlight Flares Emergency food and Water Blanket Matches or lighter Tire Plug kit Ratchet straps Rags Toilet paper Hatchet High lift jack Spare Fuel (jerry cans) Zip ties Spare set of clothes Duct tape Electrical tape Tie Wire GPS Garbage Bags Hose clamps Electrical Wire (Most Importantly) A TRAILBITCH Spare parts Alternator, Half Shaft, Various Bolts and nuts, Belts, Ujoints,

Thanks for the help you guys, Here is my final list. If you see anything I missed that should not be left off the list please let me know. My truck is in relatively good condition so some things I did not feel so important to check. Keep in mine this list is just a vehicle checklist. My list of items to load into the truck is separate. PreWheeling Checklist Check all fluids (Top off if necessary) Check Spare tire Pressure Inspect Tires for damage Check Lug nuts for proper torque Inspect suspension and steering for excess play Grease all zerk fittings Check windshield wipers (replace if necessary) Check operation of lights Check functionality of 4WD Make sure Battery is secured Check condition of Belts Check Fire Extinguisher Test CB Radio Test ARB Lockers and Onboard Air Install equipment Cage (secures equipment in back) Check inventory of First Aid kit (restock if necessary) Apply Mud-OFF

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