msavides

Harbor freight has them for 6 bucks. Mark

Go ahead and post the part number. I may need to do this in the future. It would be nice to have it archived on the forum. Mark

Well I was wondering if any of you have had this problem and if you know the solution. I checked my voltage at the battery and it shows 14.2 volts but the stupid voltage gauge is pointing right between 16-18. What is the deal. It freaked me out I thought it was overcharging until I grabbed my meter and checked it. Mark

That is weird. post did not move to the top. It is like my post did not exist. First photo and 3rd photo are low beams 2nd photo and 4th photo are Hi beams. A magnet tilts the bulb up when the hi beams are turned on so it is still a single bulb and you do not have to wait for a second hid to strike. Mark Ok this post moved it to the top.

Ok, I opened up the factory service manual and followed the instructions. It said to start by adjusting the screws all the way in then adjust the headlights by adjusting them out, Well when I adjusted them in the ball snap back into the socket and all is well. I adjusted them the best I could in my driveway, However I have to take it some place at night to readjust them. My driveway is sloped down toward the street so I need to find some level terrain. Here are the Photos of the HID lights installed. I will need to add some better pics when on the street. low beam hi beam low beam hi beam Mark

And they work great for leveling out the legs on my workbench.

Tried adjusting my headlamps last night, the right side adjusted fine, however when I went to adjust the left side I noticed that after adjusting the headlamp rocked and was loose. After looking at the right side I noticed that the headlamp is held steady at 3 points. the 2 adjusting screws and a ball pivot joint toward the fender. The left side has come apart at the ball and pivot joint. does it just snap in there or what. It was dark out so i did not want to force it when i could not see what I was doing. Also it seemed when i adjusted it out that the adjustment screws were angled up and not straight which could have pulled the ball out of the pivot joint. I hope this makes sense to someone. Mark

Nighthawks melted my plug. beware.

This kit has a complete harness. only used 1 stock headlight plug as a trigger for the relay for the light and the bulb movement for the high beam. No problems with stock wiring at all. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9003-H4-900...1QQcmdZViewItem Mark

my 91 has on/off buttons for recirculate and ac. I am sure your newer one just has momentary buttons so they can be cleared when you put it in defrost. I want a 95 now. Mark

Relocation Kits For ALL!! Mark

Ok I ordered and installed the moving bulb Hid Lights. I have not done the adjustments on the headlamp housing yet. I will get pics up once I adjust them. And you guys were correct on this kit it came with fuses, relays and all that stuff. Wonder why my other cars did not come the same way. oh well. I will try and do the adjustments this weekend and get the pics up by Saturday. Mark

I put ceramics on my other suv. I hate them . They make all kinds of weird noises. They are suppose to produce less dust but man are they Noisy! I even put that no squeak stuff on the back of the pads., Mark

If you have to ask you need to do it. Just that simple.

Turn on your A/C And turn up your heater so your not cold. May seem silly to chill and heat at the same time but it works. Make sure you do not have it on auto climate control or this wont work. The A/c removes moisture in the air. Most newer cars automatically turn on the ac and put it on fresh air when you put it on the defroster settings. Mark

If you are talking about a wandering feeling while driving at freeway speeds. Mine did the same thing it eventually stopped doing it after a couple of things. I really noticed it get a lot better after my upper ball joint bolts backed out on a wheeling trip. After tightening them up and replacing the bolts Most of it went away. However it did not all go away until I Had it realigned. I Think I may have not tightened them up good when I replaced them. So it was initially aligned with them loose. Also Make sure your centerlink locking nuts are tight. Also verify the measurement of the centerlink make sure it is exactly as in calmini's instructions. (approximately 30 7/16 inches) . Make sure you ball joint bolts are tight (HE HE LOL) Also did you get the correct backspaced rims for the trailmaster if you get them with to much backspacing your wheels will stickout more and cause some tracking/tramline problems (also could be rims or the tires causing that problem) on the road if you hit an uneven or slanted road that is only slanted on the edge of the road. This happens with a lot of 4X4's when people put really wide tires on. Mark

Factory service manual has frame diagram. and all the measurments you could possibly want for the frame, I would get one for your year before you even think about messing with the frame.

I had a leak that looked the same way. Turns out it was due to the oil filter when removing and changing the filter. all that oil drips out and just sits on that little shelf above the oil pan and it slowly starts spraying out all over the place when you drive. I would put an oil filter relocation kit on and see if it stops. Mine stopped right after I relocated it and gave it a good pressure washing. Or just give it a good wash and see if it stops then install the kit if it does. Mark

There is much debate on this. Many people say that the defect is weak studs. Some say the defect is in warping exhaust manifolds. Could even be a combination of both. I never wanted to ever do it again, so I replaced everything. I even switched from studs to locking bolts, I have never needed to touch them since not even to re torque them. some people have replace the exhaust manifolds or even had there old ones machined flat again and have had no more problems. I did not want to take a that chance. Headers will also make you engine compartment a little cooler. Mark

$200 that is insane. Could not be for labor as the switch would take about 30 secs to replace. disconnect wires unthread switch thread new switch hook up wires done. I could not imagine a switch costing 200 bucks Mark

Try pushing down on the shifter. sometimes the linkage gets stiff. or rusted because the boots on the linkage get ripped and the grease dries up. Mark

I agree, If you paid them Make those A$$Holes Do it, Or get your Money back Here is the link to the how to I wrote. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16196 Mark

I once Had someone break into my convertible and steal all my stuff, stereo,subwoofer,amp, sunglasses, even my gillette blade razer (nasty) I had an alarm but they just cut the wires to the siren. I am sure it went off but they had enough time to pop the hood and cut the wires. I had to park far enough away from my apartment at the time so I never heard the siren When I wired up my after market alarm to my 91 pathfinder I put the alarm wires in the factory loom so they could not find the wires easily, I also bought a pager alarm so if they do try to break in and clip my siren my pager will notify me and I will come out armed like Rambo and shoot their punk A$$es. People ignore sirens, I will not ignore my pager. Mark

I have the same problem, and I have had it for a year. I had the code 51, after my truck was down for 3 months while I replaced the transmission. I then cleared the code and ran 5 bottles of injector cleaner in the next 5 tanks of gas. Still misses. I am thinking it may be a leaking injector or an irregular spray pattern or both. I still have not replace any of the injectors yet. I guess I will have to do that eventually. Sucks cause they are so expensive. The code never came back however Mark

I think I paid 200 for mine. I think 100 bucks is well worth the piece of mind that you will not have radiator problems in the future. Also 100 bucks is a bunch cheaper than a head or a head gasket repair if it does overheat. Mark