msavides

I tried getting them off because I Was running some heat shield around the hose next to the headers. Ijust cut the hose off instead. But that told me that the hoses are not going anywhere and I did not need any clamps. If I do put them on I will do just that. mark

You know I was thinking about using hose clamps, But when I slide the hose on the fitting and then tried to take it off and couldn't without destroying the hose I decided it did not need them. I still think about doing it since it is cheap piece of mind. Mark

I mounted mine underneath. I have a 5 speed so there is a little more room there than with a auto. see link, click view now to see more. http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/Al...165/t_=88532165 3 things that made me go this route was: 1. no sharp bends in the hoses 2. does not have to pump the oil upwards 3. Not that much of a mess when changing filters. Just wipe it off, or hose it off. It does not run all over other components.

I could not find them either. However order the copper collector gasket from summit racing. I burned through the two stock style ones driving to work and back. I put the copper ones on and i have had no problems going on 6 months. I did use the thorley gaskets but i installed them with the permatex copper sealant still going strong with no leaks. Mark

I have only lubed them once (during installation) That was about 8 months ago. I have went through 3 trips of mud slinging and 3 pressure washes and no squeak. Are you sure the squeak is coming from the UCA, I also replaced all my bushings on the entire vehicle when I Installed the UCA. The UCA Bushings I installed were Black hard nylon not flexible at all. I can't imagine them being responsible for the squeak. Mark

If your in california you can only get the thorley's. They have the carb EO number stamped on the manifold. the smog guys will look for that when smoging. pacesetters are not carb approved. Mark

I ordered my thorleys through summit racing. They said the same thing in the item description. They fit just fine. I have a 3 in body lift and the calmini susp lift. I had no fitment problems. now exhaust stud problems that is another question altogether. BTW Mine is a 1991 4x4 5 speed Mark

Calmini no longer use the poly bushings for the UCAs now use vecton bushings. vecton is nylon that contains solid and liquid lubricants. I installed mine about 8 months ago. I have no squeaking. I have had no problems. They guys have been cool with me about all my questions. Yes they are expensive. But in my opinion worth it. I also have the calmini HD steering kit and track bar bracket. No problems with any of it. See link http://www.matweb.com/search/SpecificMater...?bassnum=PENS57 Mark

well it turns out the old bearings and boxes fell victim to a garage cleaning. They are gone. I did find my invoice from rock auto, maybe it will help. BCA/NATIONAL 32308C Differential Pinion Bearing $ 32.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 32.79 BCA/NATIONAL 710245 Differential Pinion Seal $ 12.75 $ 0.00 1 $ 12.75 BCA/NATIONAL 32306C Differential Pinion Bearing $ 25.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 25.79 sorry it took so long to reply. I Had a bunch of crap hit the fan and was not able to get back to the board. However I remember matching the old bearing to the new one and the numbers and brand were identical, Also I have a bunch of the spacers(shims) left over from my job. I measured mine and ordered one size up and down plus the original size for each of the 3 spacers. (spent 100 bucks in shims from the Nissan dealer) Of course the dealer does not accept returns on special orders so I am stuck with them. May be of some use to you. Mark

I don't have the part numbers with me right now, however the cheapest place I found them at was rock auto(online parts retailer). The local parts houses wanted 50 bucks for the small one and 90 bucks for the large one. They were the exact bearing that were in there stock I got both at rock auto for under 60 bucks. I will look and see if I still have the old bearings, and see if i can get the part numbers off of it when I get home. Mark

Would definitely would want to keep it all Nissan. But then I would have to get rid of my rear springs. However mine were never actually installed on a jeep.. So they are just new springs. does not matter what they were made for , They just happen to fit. Imagine that. Besides what would I call it A pathjeep or a pathota.. No way! Mark

I might agree to the SAS But I would have to test drive one to see how it feels. I like the way mine feels suspension wise. I fear that SAS would totally change the way it steers and the way it corners. I have a daily driver, so that is not my worry. I just think at that point that it would no longer be a pathfinder in my eyes. Mark

Just remember when all is done. the point I was making is that the R50 is just as capable. I just like my WD21 better. (mainly cause I don't own a r50) I would never SAS Mine. If I wanted SAS I would by a hummer (H1 ofcourse the newer ones are crap) Mark

Ok I concede, Great thing about being on a forum. you don't have to face everyone when you say something stupid. all though not articulation related, last I checked lockers and SAS (articulation related) was not an option (without incredible pain) on an R50. I Have not crawled underneath a R50 yet so I don't know for sure what exactly is an option or not. Just going by what I read. Mark

not true body lift increases departure and approch angles. allows you not to scrub the front or the rear when climbing over things. Mark

I meant with mods that are not available for the r50 the wd rules. Mods that increase articulation that are not available for the r50. If the same mods are done to both vehicles they would be even in my eyes. Mark

Ok I have a story to tell as well. I first learned of a pathfinder when my dad was shopping around for an suv. He was trying to decide between the axes van or the pathfinder. Thank God he chose the pathfinder. When he brought it home I fell in love. It had so many features and gadgets I played with it for hours. It was a 1990 SE 4X4, and it had everything, It was a dealer driven gem. I borrowed the truck several times over my teen years (even more than my dads 1987 944 porsche, but that another story) I went on my first coed unsupervised camping trip with it (oh the memories). I ended up doing the first bit of damage to the truck, while wheeling on that trip I backed into a ditch and crushed the tailpipe slightly. I was lucky it went unnoticed. Later when the vehicle had served its usefulness to my father he handed it down to me. It had 289,000 miles on it and was well abused. It had no major work done on it until I got a hold of it. I then drove it until about 360,000 and the transmission went out. I then spent about $3,000 on getting it rebuilt (automatic transmission) then 200 miles later the flywheel broke (should have been replaced with the trans IMO) then at 376,000 the engine blew a head gasket. The engine went in for a rebuild for about another $3000 then I wreaked it at 409,000. It sat at my dads for about 4 years. Some parts thieves ransacked it along with the Rats and squirrels. I then decided the only way to keep it safe was to move it to my house (now that I owned one) I then started adding up all the stuff I needed to fix it and get it back on the road. I added it all up to about $4,000 for parts and materials. I then decided that I could probably find a parts vehicle for less. I started the hunt. To my suprise I found one the exact color model everything except for 2 differences. The replacement was a 1991 and a Manual transmission. It was selling for $2500. The pathfinder was in almost perfect condition. I bought it. Next I pulled any parts I needed off the wrecked one (which was not much). I then found this board and was awakened to all of what my pathfinder could be. First began the maintainence. Since I did not know much about the truck I began with replacing the timing belt seals ect. Then the tuneup. I then began the mods. Body lift, wench, suspension lift, lockers, Argh I began to go mad. Before I knew it I had sunk 5 grand into it on top of the cost of the truck. I then sold my wrecked pathy to Slick. I have now began to start wheeling it instead of working on it. This is where the real fun begins. So everyone in my family thinks that i have the same old truck. LOL I can totally see how you guys get addicted or start collecting pathfinders. I only have 1 now but It is my baby. Mark

Unibody can be just as strong if not stronger than a frame if engineered correctly. (goes to show how well the xj was built) The only disadvantage to having unibody is the modifications, while not impossible they are more expensive or time consuming to perform. If you are not going to mod then the r50's are a great SUV and I believe to be just as capable to a stock Wd. However add a few mods and the wd rules. The same mods would cost more (money/time) to do on the r50. The advantage of the R50 is they superior on road, so much that the WD could never compete. Just my 2 cents. Mark

With a 3 inch body lift the fan shroud fits just above the steering box. Without a body Lift you would need to modify the lower fan support on the shroud. mine had a body lift so no modifications were necessary. I chose to put a piece a metal behind the radiator to reinforce the tab that sticks out on the sides of the radiator (where the stock shroud bolted up to) just because this weighs more than the stock shroud. It seems really sturdy though. Also this is not the stock radiator it is a so called Oem replacement from autozone. Should be the exact same as stock though. Mark

bolts on the shroud match up with where the bolt hole are on the stock radiator. just the stock holes in the radiator are a little high. A couple of self tapping bolts and it is done. Mark

Hey Guys, I just completed my E-Fan mod. I hooked up the dual fans found on a 1989 Nissan Maxima I found a Pick N Pull. I think I paid $25 for the fan . I picked up a Fan controller that uses the stock temp sensor and is adjustable. Here is the link to the Fan controller. I ran the wires out a hole under my A/C lines and wrapped it in wire loom around the battery and behind the headlamp then fed the sensor wire and the A/C Clutch wire into the stock loom on the front of the engine then tied them in to the sensor wire and the A/C clutch wire. I ran 10 Gauge wire for the feed to the built in relay in the temp controller and for the lead out to the fans. I tied the ground to the ground wire where the ground battery wire bolts to the body. http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/cooling/fc2p.shtml Here is the link to the photos of my install http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/Al...165/t_=88532165 Mark

This is the prefect thing for a control freak such as yourself. I just did my efan mod with dual maxima fans and used this controller. I mounted it on the side of my ac box. under the glove box. It works off of the stock gauge sending unit and has a ext turn on wire for the ac. Works AWESOME. http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/cooling/fc2p.shtml Mark

Hey rock auto has the complete half shafts for 50.97 each.(no core charge) Why pay $30 bucks for just the boot and a whole lot more work when you can get the entire shaft for $20 more. I think shipping for two of them was like 30 bucks.

You guys have some awesome places to wheel. I am Jealous. Mark

I purchased the calmini system. The one thing that wears out is the idler arm bushings. You can prevent them from wearing out by making sure you lube the idler arm through the zerk fitting after the first few wheeling trips or just keep trying to pump grease in there every week for the first month from when you first installed it. When it comes it is really tight and there is no room for grease. I tried greasing when it was new and could not get any grease pumped in it. But as it initially gets used it will wear in and allow you to pump grease in. this will prevent further wear as the grease will get between the bushings. They wear out because people do not grease them after the wear in period and it continues to wear until it gets too loose. It would also help if calmini explained this. Or even came with half decent assembly instructions. As for the price the calmini kit does replace the pitman arm and the idler arm and they are really beefy. (pics on site do not do it justice.) Now whether that justifies 2 times the price that is up to you to decide. I just know I have been really happy with mine. I probably have about 2500 miles of everyday driving and hard wheeling with 32" tires and my new rims stick out more than the old ones. I am sure that put more stress on the steering. And as for bump steer there is not much on mine.I have 3 inch body lift and the so called 3 inch suspension lift I am cranked up pretty good and my cv angle are quite extreme. I installed everything at once so I do not know what the steering would have been like with the suspension lift without doing the steering. The steering felt the same lifted as it did stock (except for the lesser turning radius due to the larger tires) Just my 2 cents. Mark