msavides

When I bought my pathfinder. I noticed that the the PO put alummaseal in the radiator. I flushed it 3 times and it still kept comeing back. I finally just replaced the radiator. I went from having very inconsistant tempatures to a steady consistant tempatures. Now My cooling system is running perfectly. I would just bite the bullet and replace the radiator especially since you say that there was goo in there. You are proabably just unblocking a few passages at a time with each flush. Mark

Well there was not a write up there, so I wrote one up. Hope it helps someone. Mark

Here is the well needed write up on how to fix broken exhaust bolts. Photos are here http://www2.snapfish...165/t_=88532165 http://s212.beta.pho...n exhaust studs click view now to see pics Almost forgot the most important step. PB Blaster and lost of it, and time. First off this was done on a 1991 Nissan pathfinder with a 5 speed manual transmission and a 3 inch body lift. * First thing to do is remove the exhaust shields off the exhaust manifolds. * Next remove the collector bolts from the exhaust manifold. * Then remove exhaust manifold bolts. Some people say that using an impact wrench on the studs works better for removing the studs, I am not so sure that is a good idea, I never tried it, I used a ¼ drive ratchet to remove them so I could better feel the breaking point, Not sure it that work with much success either. I ended up with 3 broken in the end 2 of which were broken from the start. If the stud breaks in the middle then you can try grabbing it with a pair of vice grips or use a tool for removing broken bolts. If the bolt breaks flush with the head you will need to drill them out. * To drill them out you will need a right angle drill and some bit extractors.(see tool link list below) Do not try and go with cheap bolt extractors. They will break on you and leave you in a worse situation. The most important thing when drilling it to stay in the center of the bolt. Take your time. Do not push hard let the drill do the work and use some oil while drilling. If you go off center you will end up drilling out the head and mess up the threads. If you do this a little bit then you will have to go with a helicoil, but only if you are slightly off center. If you are way off center it is new head time. The extractors I used drills the stud in reverse and in some cases you can have the stud unthread while you're drilling (this is a good thing, however none of mine were that generous.) * Once you drill the stud all the way through (you will know when you have) slide the extractor up and lock it in place and then put your socket wrench (I would not use the drill for this) and begin to unthread the stud. If all goes well you will be putting new studs in, in no time. * If you drill off center (I had one) you can try to extract with the same method as a above, pay attention to where the extractor is biting. If it bites into the head (pinning the stud against the head) you will break the extractor. If you notice this happening stop, remove the extractor and go buy a Helicoil. *The instructions for the helicoil will be on the package. It basically tells you to drill with the appropriate size drill bit (do not substitute the drill size. The drill size has to be exact. It will be larger than the stock stud hole size. This is normal) My stud came out while I was drilling it for the helicoil. Once it has been drilled you must tap the head.(do not over drill or you may hit a water jacket or worse, also make sure you are not drilling off center or the same may happen) *Tap the head with the helicoil tap turning 2 to 3 turns while adding oil then back out the tap all the way to clear away the cuttings. Spray brake parts cleaner or carb cleaner to clean the hole out, then start again with the oil and go 2 to 3 turns more past where you last were and then repeat until you get to the bottom. Then thread the helicoil in with the supplied tool. When finished break off the tab at the bottom of the helicoil. I typed this out of memory. I did this 8 months ago so I may have missed some key steps. If you spot them please let me know so I can edit the document. Mark Tools http://www.sears.com...=bolt extractor

From what I have heard the gearing is different from 5 speed to auto. If it was 5 speed to five speed they are the same from 87 - 95 at least maybe even the same to 98, Don't quote me on the years not 100% sure on years

There are plenty of people here including me who have successfully extracted broken exhaust bolts and/or put in helicoils without pulling the head. I will tell you it is a hell of a lot easier with a body lift. The shop just does not want to deal with the hassle. I if you look in the how to section I think there is a write up on the procedure, Or there should be Mark

Most people just squeeze the fluid back up the line into the master cylinder, If this is the case you should not have introduced air into the lines However you could have pushed back some pretty foul fluid into the master cylinder along with some water that may have made it into the lines. I always open the bleed screw and squeeze the piston into a container to avoid pushing nasties into the master cylinder. I am Also so anal as to change the entire system's brake fluid. This is why a lot of people have there master cylinder go bad right after changing their brakes. I recommend an entire brake fluid change but at least give them a good blead Mark

I am more concerned about the foul smelling black fluid that came out then the furr on the magnet. I too have seen more furr on a magnet, but the foul smelling black Auto transmission fluid, That indicates Impending DOOM. Mark

I Run Red tops in all My cars. My buddy bought a read top for his boat (he was too cheap to buy the proper yellow top) His red top sat on his cement garage floor (worst thing to do to a battery) for over a year dead. He just put it in his yukon, charged it up and it has been great for the past 3 years and still going. So I would say that is a big myth out running them down. The thing that kills them is when an regulator fails and they get overcharged, that ofcourse would kill any battery. BTW The last Red top I bought was At Costco For like 69 bucks (no trade in required). I have not seen them at my local costco recently though, But may be worth checking out your local costco. Mark

This could be a long shot bit it sounds like a collapsing Coolant hose, A bad water pump is not going to give less flow when it heats up, however when coolant hose starts getting old it could start to collapse when it gets hot and would explain the lower flow. Just My 2cent. Mark

I converted the fog lamps on my Hyundai Sante fe to Hid. It did not come with a relay harness. Just plugged the wire that would normally hook to the H3 bulb to the ballast/igniter. and that was all. HID are about voltage not amps. Mark

I had a 90 and now a 91 SE and they were both in the same place. the alarm switch with the LED was in the center console. Wonder why the Variation? Mark

If you want to go HID you get away a lot cheaper buying a good solid light with a strong durable housing and upgrading the bulbs with an HID conversion kit. The kits cost about $100 on ebay. mark

The switch is on the dash left of the steering wheel. To be exact the switch is between the rear glass hatch release switch and the power mirror control. Mark

I do not think a relay harness is needed with hid. they use less amperage than the stock bulbs. found some hid kits for $80 shipped on ebay. also the Bixenon (motorized bulb) are going for $127 shipped I may end up doing this conversion before any of you guys do, so I will post some before and after pics. Mark

doing some research I found that they have some HID Kits that have a little solenoid that moves the bulb up for hi beams. and back down for lo beam. Seems pretty cool. Mark

If you could after you get them installed, do a quick write up with some pics. I was planning on doing this to my wd21. Any tips and pics of the final result would be awsome. mark

The alarm is a passive entry system. you have like 30 secs to enter the pathy and put the key in the ignition and turn the key before the alarm goes off. not much use if you ask me, but I guess it is better than nothing. It stopped working in my pathy after a while. BTW I think you have to have the key in the ignition and turned to have the toggle switch take effect any change. Mark

Really can't remember. I think it was a rather warm day, something like 90-95 outside. Mark

I had a friend with a Mitsubishi eclipse have his rear hatch window do that. The thing is it was parked in his driveway. We were just standing there and we heard it just implode. All the glass was inside the car not one cube of glass was outside the car. weirdest thing I have ever witnesses. Still to this day we don't know exactly how it happened. Mark

I also have a door lock problem. Actually not really a problem yet, more of an annoyance. I have an after market alarm/keyless entry system installed. When I lock my doors with the remote sometimes they make the noise like they lock and then they pop back up again. This only happens once in a while. What makes it annoying is that i have to unlock then lock again (unarm/arm) I think I heard that this tends to happen when it is cold outside, however I have not noticed the problem with any consistency with the temp outside. so before I go tearing apart my door does anyone have any ideas. Mark

You know what that is similar to the stuff I lubed mine with. I did not know about it, That is all I had on hand at the time. It is the green stuff right. That could explain why mine have not squeaked yet. Now I know to keep using that grease. I Know it repels water well that is why I thought it would be perfect to use instead of going out and buying some wheel bearing grease. Mark

You know what! I think I figured it out. That pathfinder was in multiple wrecks before I got it. They collision repair shop probably salvaged the front end off some hard body. Mystery solved. They did some really crappy body repairs as well so I believe this is what happened. Mark

If i am in error then one of my pathfinders would be in error. My 1990 that I sold to Slick had sealed beam headlights. it is a 1990 XE My current 1991 Xe Has the bulbs that come out from the back. Not sure what the difference is However the trucks were manufactured 6 month apart from each other. My father bought the pathy New from the dealer. so No conversion was done, Does anyone have a pathy with sealed beam lights? This is very intriguing. Mark

Also, Note that the 90-95 Pathfinder has two different style lights. I know for a fact that in 1990 they had sealed beams and in 1991 they had the removable bulb from the back of the lenses. They look interchangeable. Also note that if you go with Actual Hid Replacement bulbs you will not have to upgrade the wiring. The real hid's work off of high voltage and lower amperage. The create a spark jump that creates the light and do not use a filament. I had a problem with my fog lams in my other car, they were mounted in the bumper and the bumper vibrated and bounced around a lot. This caused the filament to break when the bulbs aged and the filament started to get brittle. I never had a bulb last longer than 3 months. I switched to hid's and they have been going strong for 1 year and counting. Plus my little fog lamps (h3) put out almost 4 times the light my headlamps do. I plan on switching all them out. Only problem is you will either lose your high beams or have to get a hybrid bulb if you have high and low beams on a single bulb. I don't think you need high beams with these. The other problem is they are not DOT approved so you could get a ticket if they notice them. However I think if you have them pointed correctly the cops should not bother you about them. Mark

Well I will just count myself lucky that mine don't squeak. If they do start to squeak I will relube them. however if they last as long as they have now after each lube, I can live with relubing once a year. BTW Just had my truck Re-aligned and they got it all within factory specs, Barely but still. Drives much better now. I will continue to take it in every six months. I Love lifetime alignment at Firestone.Worth every penny. Mark