msavides

The most important thing to be replaced in an a/c system that has been opened its the receiver/dryer. It has removes moisture from the system and if it has been left open it has absorbed all the moisture out of the air that it can and it will not be able to absorb any more. It is possible to flush all the other components in the system except the compressor with denatured alcohol to clean any impurities. The receiver/dryer has to be new. Also it is a must to flush out any items that have the oil from an r-12 system when converting to r134a. and never reuse a receiver/dryer from an r12 system in r134a. The oils are not compatible with each other. You also cannot flush the evaporator without removing it from under the dash. There is a valve and orifice that makes it almost impossible to flush when left inline and you don't want to flush the valve. So with that being said you can reuse parts as long as you clean them. Also if you flush a part and you get metal shavings or other debris to flush out, It probably is not a good idea to use it since you will not be able to get it all out and one of those shavings could take out a compressor or clog your valve/orifice. and replace every seal o-ring you come across. you do not want a leak. Unless you have a A/C Vacuum pump you will not be able to evacuate the system properly and you will not be able to charge it with freon. The system has to be under a vacuum. Also putting the system under a vacuum and letting it sit will elp verify you do not have a leak, but you will not be sure until you charge the system. Mark

it should pull from the radiator side and push air toward the engine side. think of while your driving how the air flows. you would not want the fan to fight against the air coming in from the front of the truck. mark

Hey DryBear, Pm me your shipping address and I will send you one. Mark

you will wipe out the input shaft bearing fast running low on fluid. I would get the correct amount in there ASAP. I had to replace my transmission after listening to autozone who told me that gl-5 is what I was suppose to put in there. Gl4 is impossible to find around here. I ordered from summit at 7 bucks a quart. Mark

I have a curt Practically brand new Installed but never used. I am getting a integrated hitch/ rear bumper so I do not need it anymore. Mark

If you have a switch in the center console that would indicate a factory alarm. It would be a 3 position switch with the center (If I remember correctly)being off and up was impact off. It has been a while. And there is no FOB with the alarm armed you have to unlock your door and turn the key in the ignition within 30 sec or it will go off. Mark

when i replace my transmission I thought it was coming from the real oil pan seal also. But after a little experimentation i discovered it was just residual oil coming from that spot above the oil pan. Still did not stop me for cleaning the rear of the oil pan and putting Rtv in between the pan and the block. Last thing I wanted to be was wrong about where the oil was coming from after putting the transmission back in . What a pain in the ass. Mark

I just installed my Hushpower. This thing is long but small. I hooked the muffler up and drove it for a day before hooking up the tail pipe back up. Boy was this thing loud, Reel Deep tone, No high pitch noise. When i put my tail pipe back on Most of the sound went away. I think I am going to replace my stock 1 3/4 in tail pipe with some 2 in. May just take it to a shop though and have the tail pipe made. don't want to spend too much money on it though. It still sounds better than my stock one did. I will see if i can get a sound clip although I do not know how. Mark

I just ordered my hushpower muffler for my pathy. we will have to see how it sounds when I get it installed. My muffler is barely hanging on and about to fall off. Mark

It is probably coming from just above the oil pan. There is a little shelf that catches oil when you change your oil filter. It sits up there and when you drive it blows all over the place. Most of the time it looks like it is coming from the ream main seal as it is running down the back of the oil pan in between the engine and transmission. I thought I had a bad rear main seal and had checked it when I pulled my transmission then i found that little spot and put 2 and 2 together. I have relocated my oil filter and I have not seen a drop since then. Mark

Hey slick. sounds like you have the same high rpm rattle that I have on my 1991 pathfinder. Is your cat resting on the rear crossmember too? That is what i think is causing my rattle. Mark

Replaced voltage regulator for gauge and nothing changed. Oh well At least I now have the upgraded voltage regulator. Mark

well if you have a manual transmission. Automatic transmission may pose a problem since they are a little wider. Dual filters are a nice touch as well Mark

I finally got tired of this whole gas gauge thing and ran some tests. I have 2 pathfinders one that is a 1990 SE wrecked the other a 1991 SE. I took the pump assembly out of both and tested them using the factory shop manual. The 1990 SE Gauge was way off on the resistance scale. Cleaned the carbon strip off with denatured alcohol and then tested it and it was within the resistance scale in the manual. On my 1991 It was withing the resistance scale from the start. I hooked it up out of the tank and did some tests with a buddy. adjusting the float up 1/4 of the way up put the gauge at just above the letter E. The tip of the pointer just going through the letter E. This is the same as if the float was all the way down. No changed in the gauge, even though with the meter it showed a change in resistance. When I moved the float to half way up the gauge moved to 1/4 mark on the gauge. when I moved the float 3/4 of the way up the gauge moved a little over between the half mark and full. and when the float was moved to the top the gauge move to the full mark Just a hair away from the F but not touching the F. I think I may try and replace the voltage regulator for the gauges and see if I get some better stability in the gauge that may shed some light on why my temp gauge never gets to half way up it sits mid way between the bottom and half. The shop manual shows it about 3/4 of the way up between cold and half at normal operating temp. Mark BTW I also tested my low fuel light and it does indeed work. The gauge was throwing me off since it would say empty when I would still have a 1/4 of a tank.

I had no choice but to get the thorleys, as i live in california. and pacesetters are not carb approved. I have photos of my header install nightmare and oil filter relocation here. oil filter relocation is not really necessary with the thorleys but recommended if you do not like oil dripping all over the starter and rear of the oil pan. thorley install pics. select view now on page http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/Al...165/t_=88532165 oil filter relocation pics select view now on page http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/Al...165/t_=88532165 Mark