fondo

^^^ What he said... The spider injector needs something like 55+lbs of pressure to push the fuel through the poppets (injector ends). But like bow tied said those pumps ain't cheap and your better off going with an oem replacement rather some cheap off brand. Better to pay now and do it once than have to do it again in few months.

Nice build... You might wanna look into changing out your intake manifold gaskets with some steel framed fel pro's or ac delco equivalent. The thin paper gaskets used from the factory are known to deteriorate over time and allow coolant to seep into the motor causing major issues down the road. Another thing you might already be aware of is the fuel pressure regulator and internal fuel supply and return lines (gm dubbed as "nut kit") all of which are located inside the upper intake plenum. Once you remove the intake plenum it will be easy to tell if something is leaking judging by how clean it is from the gasoline washing all the carbon off. Just some things to be aware of if you are in it for the long run.

Nice work... Now all you need to do is compliment your hard work with a nice set of wheel/tires

Yep... First Sen. Larry Craig, now this... Sheesh, at least will still got out spuds

Found this on the local craigslist:Visit My Website Man if it only was a pathy... pfft $15000, ya right

Your upper control arm has nothing to do with the torsion bar, its main purpose is to act as a guide for the rest of the suspension... In other words, keeps things square or "aligned" thats why you see the shims behind the upper arm-to-frame bolts. Once you get the tension off the bars you can move the lower arm freely so the ball joint taper end can clear the knuckle hole without hesitation. You might also need to undo the stabilizer bar, I'm not 100% sure though. I think it depends on weather you do one side at a time or both sides simultaneously w/ both t-bars relieved of tension. Hope I could help.

I think I understand now how the torque measurement works for these. You gotta push the flange on by turning the nut which requires a good amount of torque to seat it on the pinion spline. Then you turn the pinion nut with an "lbs. torque wrench and compare it to the measurement taken before disassembly... If anyone was curious. I wonder how the pathy rear-end is set up. I never had an issue with seals on my pathfinder, other than the cam seals. Goes to show how Japanese engineering surpasses domestic way back when and probably now. Any way, thanks.

Hey everyone, I'm working on a 93 olds bravada pinion seal and I'm not sure exactly how I go about torquing the pinion nut on the rear diff. I'm in the process of replacing the pinion seal, but where I go from there is sorta hit or miss. I've been told that I need to torque the nut ("lbs.) to what it takes to turn the pinion with the torque wrench which is about 19"lbs. Is that all you should wrench it to!? I mean it seems kinda low for something fastening a critical link in the drive-train. Any one know a thing or two about rear ends, enough to steer me in the right direction? THANKS...Sorry it's not a pathy

MOOG bushings are what I replaced mine with. I'm not sure if you have a car quest where you live but they had 'em in stock for like $30 where I'm at. Can't beat them.

I've used their 2-stoke oil before (snowmobile) and didn't really notice any difference. I think there are several other brands out there that are far better than amsoil especially when it comes to 2 stokes...

Resistor pack... its in (or around) the blower motor. While your in there clean all that debris out that falls through the hood vents. Here's the link about that How to prevent fire Good luck!!

I think this has been covered before?! Low quality steel coupled with the salt factor I believe is why some encounter this problem... Right??

Check rotors. Radial runout and thickness. The one rotor with the seized caliper pin might be thicker=less wear from brake pads cause caliper can't open or close as much as the other due to pin... Just a thought

I've had that problem before. This might not be the solution to the issue you are having but you may want to consider it. There are 2 pins on each caliper that bolt the caliper to the caliper frame, iirc these pins allow the caliper to "adjust" if you will when you press on the brake pedal. I found out one day that one of these pins had actualy seized and was the cause of my pathy wanting to pull to one side of the road when I would push on the brake. The pins have a dust boot over them and should slide with ease when applying force. I had a halibut of a time trying to get that pin out and eventually ended up using an air chisel to un-seize it. Hope this helps...

Hi, not to add anymore insult to injury but if I was in your position I would probably go ahead and pull the motor to inspect and/or replace faulty parts. Reason being: (1)Peace of mind (2) Think of the person you will be handing this off to someday and the repercussions involed "when" and "if" the motor pops on them (3) When you replace the head gasket you're going to increase the compression ratio once again back to almost what it was before the motor hydrolocked (or what have you), if the rod is bent it is lacking the intergrity it once had and won't be able to tolerate the normal operating stresses that are expected of that part. Feel free anyone to correct me if I'm wrong.