fondo

^^^ What he said... The spider injector needs something like 55+lbs of pressure to push the fuel through the poppets (injector ends). But like bow tied said those pumps ain't cheap and your better off going with an oem replacement rather some cheap off brand. Better to pay now and do it once than have to do it again in few months.

Nice build... You might wanna look into changing out your intake manifold gaskets with some steel framed fel pro's or ac delco equivalent. The thin paper gaskets used from the factory are known to deteriorate over time and allow coolant to seep into the motor causing major issues down the road. Another thing you might already be aware of is the fuel pressure regulator and internal fuel supply and return lines (gm dubbed as "nut kit") all of which are located inside the upper intake plenum. Once you remove the intake plenum it will be easy to tell if something is leaking judging by how clean it is from the gasoline washing all the carbon off. Just some things to be aware of if you are in it for the long run.

Nice work... Now all you need to do is compliment your hard work with a nice set of wheel/tires

Yep... First Sen. Larry Craig, now this... Sheesh, at least will still got out spuds

Found this on the local craigslist:Visit My Website Man if it only was a pathy... pfft $15000, ya right

Your upper control arm has nothing to do with the torsion bar, its main purpose is to act as a guide for the rest of the suspension... In other words, keeps things square or "aligned" thats why you see the shims behind the upper arm-to-frame bolts. Once you get the tension off the bars you can move the lower arm freely so the ball joint taper end can clear the knuckle hole without hesitation. You might also need to undo the stabilizer bar, I'm not 100% sure though. I think it depends on weather you do one side at a time or both sides simultaneously w/ both t-bars relieved of tension. Hope I could help.

I think I understand now how the torque measurement works for these. You gotta push the flange on by turning the nut which requires a good amount of torque to seat it on the pinion spline. Then you turn the pinion nut with an "lbs. torque wrench and compare it to the measurement taken before disassembly... If anyone was curious. I wonder how the pathy rear-end is set up. I never had an issue with seals on my pathfinder, other than the cam seals. Goes to show how Japanese engineering surpasses domestic way back when and probably now. Any way, thanks.

Hey everyone, I'm working on a 93 olds bravada pinion seal and I'm not sure exactly how I go about torquing the pinion nut on the rear diff. I'm in the process of replacing the pinion seal, but where I go from there is sorta hit or miss. I've been told that I need to torque the nut ("lbs.) to what it takes to turn the pinion with the torque wrench which is about 19"lbs. Is that all you should wrench it to!? I mean it seems kinda low for something fastening a critical link in the drive-train. Any one know a thing or two about rear ends, enough to steer me in the right direction? THANKS...Sorry it's not a pathy

MOOG bushings are what I replaced mine with. I'm not sure if you have a car quest where you live but they had 'em in stock for like $30 where I'm at. Can't beat them.

I've used their 2-stoke oil before (snowmobile) and didn't really notice any difference. I think there are several other brands out there that are far better than amsoil especially when it comes to 2 stokes...

Resistor pack... its in (or around) the blower motor. While your in there clean all that debris out that falls through the hood vents. Here's the link about that How to prevent fire Good luck!!

I think this has been covered before?! Low quality steel coupled with the salt factor I believe is why some encounter this problem... Right??

Check rotors. Radial runout and thickness. The one rotor with the seized caliper pin might be thicker=less wear from brake pads cause caliper can't open or close as much as the other due to pin... Just a thought

I've had that problem before. This might not be the solution to the issue you are having but you may want to consider it. There are 2 pins on each caliper that bolt the caliper to the caliper frame, iirc these pins allow the caliper to "adjust" if you will when you press on the brake pedal. I found out one day that one of these pins had actualy seized and was the cause of my pathy wanting to pull to one side of the road when I would push on the brake. The pins have a dust boot over them and should slide with ease when applying force. I had a halibut of a time trying to get that pin out and eventually ended up using an air chisel to un-seize it. Hope this helps...

Hi, not to add anymore insult to injury but if I was in your position I would probably go ahead and pull the motor to inspect and/or replace faulty parts. Reason being: (1)Peace of mind (2) Think of the person you will be handing this off to someday and the repercussions involed "when" and "if" the motor pops on them (3) When you replace the head gasket you're going to increase the compression ratio once again back to almost what it was before the motor hydrolocked (or what have you), if the rod is bent it is lacking the intergrity it once had and won't be able to tolerate the normal operating stresses that are expected of that part. Feel free anyone to correct me if I'm wrong.

Hey everyone, its been a while since I last posted anything on this forum, mainly 'cause my pathy was hit and I decided to take the money and run... Anyway, I thought I would comment on the Extreme 4x4 project appropriatley coined by the camera man "The View Finder" or something of that nature. I'm kinda offended though that they are making this a chase vehicle rather than a full on 4x4. However, they are just getting started and in this episode they've all ready equiped it with some nice goodies like calmini gears in the t-case and a kevlar clutch complimented with a re-manufactured long block (if memory serves me). It makes me happy that this truck finally gets some mainstream publicity that it so rightfully deserves . Happy Trails

Yeah I know... you know what else is a pet peeve of mine? TAKE A WILD FUGDIN GUESS. It is when people like yourself (and others on this forum) rely on pix to describe every aspect of a single problem... EVER TAKE INTO ACCOUNT THAT SOME MIGHT SIMPLY NOT BE ABLE TO AFFORD A DIGI-CAMERA... or just don't have one at the time??? USE YOUR IMAGINATION FOR ONCE. I know what this topic is spawned from, so try a little harder next time. All I'm tryin' to do is get some answers... and if you would've taken the time and consideration to read my last post that was published by your's truly (LOOK FOR IT>I'M SURE IT'S IN MY SIG under WRECKED) than you might have read something that would've deter'd you away from writing this post... WHICH BRINGS US TO A CONCLUSION... GET an IMAGINATION and quit relying on photos and "pop up pictures" if you will, to demonstrate the WORLD to your closed mind...

I was driving through an intersection the other day (having the right away) when all of the sudden here comes this olds mini-van to my left barrelin' through a stop sign traveling at about 35mph. I slammed on my brakes, which was pretty much useless on a day like that due to a freak show rainstorm that nearly dumped 2-3 inches of rain in about an hour. By the time the van slammed into me I was pretty much stopped and it crushed in my front drivers side fender, pushed the bumber up, destroyed the blinker,(headlight mangaged to survive somehow though), pushed up the hood and pushed in my tire/rim/hub/control arm so now the top of the tire is tilted inward a considerable amount. I ended up in a 1-1/2' deep puddle that totally surrounded my pathy. No injuries though other than a little whip lash in my neck and I bumped my left elbow when we collided. I was wearing my seat belt of course. The driver of the van was fine other than being a little shook up. So now I'm wondering how much I can expect to get from the insurance company. She has farm bureau. Has anyone dealt with this agency. I'm not sure what I want to do with the pathy right now. I think I might just have to take the money and walk... so to speak. Lately I have been puttin a lot of money and my own time into replacing worn out parts so I'm kinda pissed about that even though it still needed alot of minor things done and the manual tranny was on its last legs, I'm sure of. It has about 192,000 miles on it so I kinda think its time to say goodbye. What should I do... Do I collect $ and try to recover it @ auction and part it out. I was also wondering if I could give the insurance adjuster all the receipts I have for all the work I've had done and if that would effect how much money I might get back, any one know. I really need some good advice so please respond. Sorry for no pics. Thanks

If my memory serves me well, when I did my t-belt (before and after) the belt would loosen and then tighten frequently. This happens because the valve springs put tension on the cam lobes witch in turn makes the the cam pulleys "spring" away from each other. I think it is normal to have a bit of looseness...NO?? Did my belt about 6 months ago and everything is still a go. But changing the belt is never a bad idea regardless.

A "check engine" light could mean anything. Its just telling you that some sensor is not registering in the ecu. I would check your blinker fluid level... j/k. sorry.

Anyone??? Anyone??? I guess I should say that to much toe in can have "dangerous" results as far tire wear is concerned.

Hey there all, I was reading through my chilton manual and it had a chart for the toe values for our pathy's. For the 1991 4 wheel drive it shows 0.08-0.24 inches toe in for a radial tire. Does this mean that the front of the tire must be 0.08"-0.24" less than the rear of the tire? I measured mine from the outside to outside of tire and I measured 68-1/4 in the front and 68-3/4 in the rear meaning I have about 1/2" of toe in... right. Should the toe in stay the same whenever you downsize or upsize your tires or does it need to be adjusted accordingly? I'm currently running BFG's which are 31x10.50 on 16" wheels and I have no plans to change from status quo. Does 1/2" of toe in seem excessive or even dangerous to ya'all and should I adjust. Any one know what toe they're runnin'. I'm also trying to correct my steering from tracking off to the right when going down the road; I want my steering wheel to be straight when I'm heading straight!!!. I would like to know if anyone has some measurements of tie rod ends and # of threads that are showing past the lock nuts on the inner as well as outer tie rods on both sides of the vehicle so I have something to go by. The chilton again tells me the tie rod should be 11.06'"or 281 mm. Keep in mind it is the stock drag link and tre's. Is this something I can do myself or should I take it to an alignment shop so they get it right? Thanks and sorry for a semi-lenghty post.

I recently replaced the orignal CL and TRE'S with an assembly I picked up @ the J/Y off of a 1990 PATHY. Now (aswell as before I did the swap) my steering veers off to the left and I must correct it by turning the steering wheel so it points to the 1:30-2:00 -o- clock posistion. What can I adjust to correct this very anoying off-steer? I want it to go straight when the steering wheel is straight... Can I adjust the tre's one way or another to eliminate this, if so which way do I adjust them? I know this is an unsafe way to be drivin' so I would like to fix it asap. Also, the wheels and tires I'm runnin are 16"x31x10.50 bfg's all around that are worn more on one side than the other (drivers side has more tread on both wheel's than passenger side, especially the drivers front compared to the passengers front) I know un-even tread will affect this but I also know that if I were to buy new tires all around, I would still have this offset in the steering wheel... Is this something I can do by myself or will I mess up the toe and overall alignment. I would appreciate any feedback as I may be trying to tackle this mess tommorow along with a hot wheel hub (wheel bearing loose??). Thanks Oh I'm also plannin' on replacing the torn tre dust boots with energy suspension tre dust boots... They're the right size but will they work with all the ball joints on the CL and TRE's Sorry for such a lengthy post, but I think I can get the best info off this forum for this topic better than anywhere esle. Thanks again

Well, judging by the pic you have posted, it looks like the boot is intact and the c-clip that clamps the boot to the joint itself has been pulled off the ring it seats into. I would say 88 has the best explanation for what happened. You lost your bumpstop and the axle hyperextended istself when you had the steering wheel turned and the suspension was at some point in its travel. Am I wrong?

Ahh 88... I didn't even think about those access holes on the backing plate that have the rubber inserts in them. I just bled the rear system (starting at that sensor or load sensing valve or whatever it is thats mounted about in the middle of the frame rail then bled the rear passenger wheel and then the rear drivers side wheel) and now I have excellent braking. But I will go in and adjust that star adjuster sooner or later. This I my first time ever changing brake shoes and at first I thought I was doomed but I really didn't have whole lot of trouble once I figured out how it all works, also I bet you could do this job without all the "specialty" tools required, not sure about other makes or models but really all you need is a good set of vice grips or needle noses and a flat head screw driver... IMO