fondo

Well, back before my pathy had new (used) t-bars installed, I had a rubbin' problem. I'm not sure if the bars were re-indexed. But if I was to subtract the main culprit from the equation, what else might cause this? I have cut the air dam before, but only because of obvious t-bar sag and considerable tire rub on both sides. Any other suggestions. P.S. Oh yeah, just so ya know I had another air dam installed since then, due to a front end collision...that wasn't my fault. Thanks

That is a great first hand account despite your loss. Sorry, but who ever should listen :contract: :eek:

Hey there, I can't figure out why my front passenger tire is rubbing on the black molding that goes across the the front. It only rubs when the front of the wheel is turned inward and the suspension has some strain on that side. I just replaced the strut/compression rod bushings and thought that might have something to do with it... considering that the old ones were @!*%. Could this be a bent control arm or maybe even the spindle bushings. I don't suspect it to be the torsion bar being worn because there is about the same distance between the tire and the top of the wheel well on both sides. Any thoughts are appreciated Thanks

Thats what I kinda thought, considering I did weld my trailer hitch once and nothing happened. Thanks :cool2:

-thnkboutit- Don't know how this got posted twice. Please erase!!! Sorry

Hey all, I was going to weld compression/strut rod bushing cup back on on my passenger side and was wondering if I might fry the computer when doing this. Should I disconnect my battery or unplug the computer. Has anybody welded to their frame and fried something. Thanks

Just searchin' around on google a while back and found this: Project Pathfinder

I'm gettin ready to change mine. Red bushing in the lower left hand corner of first picture.Linky

No, I think they come equipped with a "barf bag" ya know, so you have something to puke in after you realize what has happened to your pathy LOL... Sorry to hear about that.

I can't remember if your engine is fuel injected or carbureted. If it is the later, which I think it is, make sure you seal up that area well. Also, if you are using a really high pressure compressor or nozzle don't spray directly on any soft rubber such as vacuum lines or coolant hoses, also take the same precaution on any exposed gaskets and/or seals as well. Don't spray directly on any electrical components either for prolonged periods of time like the distributor. I have done this many times and haven't had any problems afterwards... just spray lightly or stand back a few feet. P.S. I usually go to the car wash to do this and when I do I flip the selector switch on soft water.

Hey all, I'm looking buying a pontiac bonneville thats posted on my local craigslist. I e-mailed the owner and he said it has about 160,000 miles on it w/ power everthing. My friend is an avid pontiac bonneville enthusiast and currently owns 2 at the moment. He's a big fan of the 3800 series motor and I can't blame him, especially when they're runnin' a supercharger these cars are quick. Any way I'm sure he'll know everything I need to know about this car but I would like to here from anyone who has experience w/ this car and/or motor (supercharged remember). He's asking $900 for it. Think it's a smart move.

I was looking at my fan yesterday and notices it was off-kilter. I'm not sure if it is because of one of the blades being warped or what. Are these fans known to have problems after alot of miles. I want to upgrade to the taurus e-fan but would like to know if anyone else has encountered this. It is really loud when driving down the road. Thanks

Hey thanks for the replies guys. I'm assuming the kit you bought at napa had all the component for this job (i.e. bushings and sleeves) govols74n

So what some of you are saying is that there's a sleeve that separates the bushing from the rod itself (that would make sense I suppose). Any way, when you buy new bushings, do they come with these sleeves or will I need to hunt some down or even fab some up. I guess it depends on the manufacturer, right? Any one know which manufacturer sells the bushings w/the sleeves? Thanks

I should have mentioned that my throwout bearing seized up while I was driving it and left me stranded (although I was in town). Any way if this should happen to anyone (not that I recommend doing this, but I did) you can press in the clutch or use the interlock switch and start the truck in gear to get going then shift w/ engine rpms instead of a clutch. I know this isn't good for your starter but mine still works great without a glich, and this was 1 time event to get me home.

Well when mine went the "stealership" charged me between $600-$700 but that included a clutch aswell (which you might aswell replace if your in there). About 1 week after I got my pathy back the pressure plate finally lost its "spring" in the forks, so I took it back and they replaced the the p-plate and waved the labor costs (since it was their mistake not to inpect the p-plate first time around). Any who, this was at a nissan dealer so I suppose you could find a reputable shop that might not have as bad of rates as a dealership. Make sure though to have them inspect all parts associated w/ the clutch for wear... Also have them check the rear engine seal. G-day

Well I was crawlin' around under my pathy today and remebered this post. I noticed that either side looked the same as the other. Turns out the passenger side is missing one of the bushings. I guess that explains the tire rub I've been having lately. Damn.

Yep, 1/4" is about how much mine moves too. Its good to know our diffs are solid unlike some manufacturers. Has anyone heard any whore stories about pathy diffs exploding, it seems that they are pretty darn bullet proof... as far as I can tell. Thanks

Oh sorry... I'am able to turn the drive shaft back and forth and can hear the gears clanking. Nothing is broke though. I think also has something to do with pinion depth... Do are diffs have crush sleeves?

Whats the correct term for play between the ring and pinion gear in the differential? I have some play in my diff and was wondering if the gears will eventually start wearing exponentially overtime if not replaced. Thanks

Our pathy's are known to have electrical issues like that. Maybe try spraying some contact cleaner inside the buttons. The light should go off if you wiggle the buttons any particular way, just pushing them in doesn't always make a good contact in the switch.

There is a burp screw on the back of the motor (top). Kinda between the intake manifold and the firewall if memory serves me right. It is in this general location I know for sure that you should find a 10mm bolt with "warning" sticker near by. Took me a while to find even with a chilton... Good luck.

Do you have auto-locking hubs? I had problems when mine auto-hubs went, mostly when I would have to reverse. Pull 'em off and see if there is ware on the teeth of both the male and female surfaces.

Don't mean to rain on your parade, but I think I heard somewhere (though not sure which year(s) it was) that the engine builds up alot of sludge over time and the motor fails @ 100k miles. But maybe those were recalled already. Any one else hear anything about this defect. hmmm

Well I got curious about my exaust manifolds and decided I would take off the heat sheilds. Yep, sure as taxes, the passenger side manifold has a nice crack in the middle (no stud breakage though) and the drivers side has one broken stud and a missing nut off another. So I was gonna just put the sheilds back on and pretend this never happened considering my financial situation. So until I have money to replace with some thorleys or what have you, I'm gonna keep on truckin'. Think I'll make it?