87 Pfinder

take the cap off before you start you will not get air in the system , oil will not mix with the coolant if coolant is going into the combustion chamber,

If it is not leaking coolant then there is only one other place it can go and that is into the combustion chamber, do a compression check of all the cylinders and open the radiator cap while it is running and check for combustion gas . There is a leak tester that has yellow fluid in it and you put it where the rad cap goes and it will turn blue if combustion gas is present. Cracked heads are not uncommon on these motors , usually from overheating, you did not overheat it??right. Good Luck.Kris Loomis Master L1 ASE,Tungsten Performance Butte Mt 406 498 8245

I pulled the sway off this afternoon at work, I did not like how close it was to the boot. I don't really notice a whole heck of alot of difference so I think it will stay off. Nothing seems to be bent, so it is puzzling me a bit. I might buy the new brackets and a new end link kit and see if it fixes it. The sway bar is spring steel so I highly doubt at I bent it but I have see stranger things.

I just broke mine this weekend . I welded mine back on and reinforced it. Now I have one endlink closer the CV boot than the other side, as long as it dosen't rub it will be fine I guess. I welded them in the exact same spot so i guess it was like that before. They broke about 2 months after installing poly bushings. If it rubs the boot I am going to take the whole sway bar off and enjoy.

Thanks for the info, maybe I will just stick with a Sach's. I see you are from Chico, love that Sierra Nevada!

Just messing with y'all. Just got SAW torsion, RC UCA's, all Moog BJ's, JGC coils. Just waiting to install, working on cars all day dosen't make me want to work on my own very much. And I just paid to align it a few months ago. I will also do the clutch , Centerforce Dual Friction, because the torsions will be off anyway. Good idea for alignment is the lifetime alignment by Firestone. I worked for Bridgestone/Firestone for years, you can align it every week if you want, I think it was around 150$. I will post some pics when I am done.

I live in Butte, lots of good 4 wheelin around, anybody comin through, drop a line.

I would recommend the KYB Gas a Just over the GR2 if you do any off-roading. I have the Gas a Just and the are a great shock, and I really test them. I had the GRr2 in the rear and then switched to the Gas a Just. Awesome shock and a lifetime warranty.

I would definitly suggest an Optima battery, it is the best choice for any pathy owner. I have a friend that has had 2 in his Mercedes motorhome turbo diesel(366c.i. 24v starter) for over 7 years with countless recharges and still work like they did when they were new. Interstate owns Optima, Interstate is by far the best battery manufacturer and I would not put anything else in my vehicle.

Just for comparison, the new FJ has a 5 link with coils like the WD21. I don't know how much a stock pathy has, does someone know? , but the stock FJ has 545mm, pretty all right. The limited edition TRD FJ has more but I am not sure how much. There are some nice pathys on this site, so please tell. Front wheel, too. Does Nissan make a NISMO XTerra, if not they should. The NISMO Frontier is nice.

Was not trying to be an ass, my apologies. Hope everyone had a nice weekend.

Same difference, there are several different names for the same thing. Who told me, like I don't know what I am talking about. I have been working on cars long enough to know different names for things. Nissan calls them compression rods on 4x4,yes. The post was not just to let people know about the bushings, but moreso the compression rod being worn through. 88 knows all.

I have seen these bushings, as low as 60,000 miles, rub through the metal sleeve, that the bushings ride on, and rub into the actual metal arm. I have seen them up to 50% worn on the arm. I would think that it would break at that point if heavily off-roaded. The original rubber bushings are sh*t. My pfind had 99,000 when I changed to Moog urethane ones. They were worn through and I had to heat the sleeve with a torch and chisel the sleeeve off the rod. It was worn through worse on one side, so I went to my 3 doner Nissans trucks and ALL of them were worn through the sleeve. I took them all off and chose the best two. When you replace the bushings, put heavy anti seize under the sleeve before install. The Moog bushing made a big diffrence over the worn out stock rubber bushings.

this info comes from petrol eng. from Chevron and Royal Purple and my own experience. As every pathy owner already knows GL-5 gear oil has a high level of an additive that is sulfer-phosphorus. It will react badly to soft yellow metals. The info on this site says to use Red Line 90. That is a good choice but exspensive. If a gear oil says GL-4/GL-5, that means it coforms to the GL-4 spec of not eating soft metals. It probably has sulfer in it but it is a lower level than only GL-5 rated. There are not many oils that are GL-4/GL-5 that do not have any sulfer. One is Chevron Delo 80w-90 ESI, instead it uses a unique pressure additive that utilizes a inorganic borate compound. It is around 5$ a qt. and I think it is probably the best bet for Nissan trans and transfers. Not saying that Red Line is not a great oil. It seems that all of Valvolines gear oils are GL-5 only, correct me if I am wrong. Royal Purple sells a Max Gear that is GL-4/Gl-5, they stand behind that it will not harm soft metals. I read on here that someone told another to drain his Royal Purple from his trans, that is a waste of exspensive oil. Sta-Lube, which is quality also, makes a straight GL-4 that I found at Napa. It is cheaper but will get the job done. Don't forget that the transfer needs GL-4 also and straight GL-5 will harm it like the trans. Don't forget to put 5 qts in the trans, I parked on a very steep side hill instead of pulling the shifter. I hope this info helps. Kris Loomis, ASE tech