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dougdavis

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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1995 4wd se
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    40-45
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Year
    1995

Profile Information

  • Location
    Riverton, NJ, USA

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  1. Anybody know a link to a good ARB snorkel install on a D21 with a 3.0 V6? I think I've seen one before but now, I can't find it after searching. There are some changes you have to make to the kit because it is made for the diesel and doesn't fit exactly on the gas v6. Anyway anone with some info or help it would be apreciated. I finally got my ARB snorkel kit the other day after waiting 4 months(!) for it and want to put it in right. Doug
  2. Hey, If any of you are having issues with your AC not blowing as cold as it should, try this: I noticed I had a ton of dust and dried mud in my condenser from doing a lot of wheeling lately. Used compressed air gun to blow it all out and it made a HUGE difference in the way it cooled. I wish every fix was this easy and cheap... Doug Davis
  3. So I am doing the opposite that Ultrafinder is: That is I'm taking a open diff out of a drum brake truck, installing a lock right, then putting that unit in a LSD, disc brake truck. Question: do I put a thrust block in or no thrust block. The reason I'd like to find out is that I'm having lots of problems with a lock right install and am thinking the thrust block might be the culprit. I kept the block in on my first lock right install and busted all the pins in the lock right. Now I've gotten thicker thrust washers to put in, but on a bench test it still doesn't seem to click the way it should. So again, my question is: When putting an open diff from a drum truck into a disc LSD truck do you use a thrust block or not. Thanks, Doug Davis
  4. I just installed a set of old man emu rear springs and shock set. I haven't had any experience with any other aftermarket shocks to compare, but I must say they are a tremendous improvement. Smooth ride and very good off road in sandy South Jersey conditions. Doug
  5. Just an update for those who want to remove alarm control unit- The remote lock feature on the key fob no longer works if you do, evidently that function is part of the alarm unit. No other problems that I can see so far... Doug
  6. Pure luck I guess although I am moving ECU to glovebox asap. Will removing the alarm unit cause any problems? You are right it was not in the FSM. Glad you could answer then. Thanks, Doug
  7. Anybody ever remove the alarm control unit from their pathy? Mine is acting crazy going off by itself ever since I started hitting serious water on the trail. I don't think there are too many people stealing 95 pathys out there so Id just as soon get rid of it. It sounds like there is some kind of control unit under the armrest cause I hear clicking under there when it is going off. I can't turn it off because the little rocker switch is broken and doesn't do anything. Im thinking of jumping two of the switch wires or completely removing any control unit I find. The only worry with that is maybe if I remove the control unit the ignition won't work anymore but I doubt it works that way. I'll try to peruse the FSM for more info, but in the mean time, maybe someone here has some advice. Thanks, Doug
  8. Middle size shims ordered. 13$ apiece now. There are only three sizes available for the 4 spider open diff from Nissan. I picked the middle size so I hope that works. I will post the results when I get them in. Doug
  9. Nissan nut, How did you know what size thrust washers to use? I thought they come in many sizes. Maybe I'm wrong. Thanks, Doug
  10. 88, how long did that take to correct itself? I will give it more time and see if it gets better. 5523, I think I got all the springs installed correctly. I didn't change the backlash, but did not check to see if it was right either. I ahd to buy a used third member from a junkyard because mine was a LSD. I don't know how good the one I bought was, so I'll check it when I take everything apart again. Thanks for your help. Doug
  11. Mine is an automatic. What did you do to fix yours? Or is it still locked all the time? Doug
  12. Just got done installing my lock right on a 95 SE. It doesn't work right and was hoping to find someone to help diagnose. The locker went in well and I followed various write-ups (from this forum) and lock right instructions to the letter, except I didn't measure the spider shaft gaps they talked about in the lock right booklet (it was very confusing and I couldn't figure out exactly what was supposed to be measured). From what I can tell, the only reason for it not to work would be wear in the thrust washers and side gears. However, everything in the diff looked practically brand new, so I figured it was OK. The problem is that the unit is locked all the time. It doesn't ratchet or click like it is supposed to. It acts like a spool. I am going to take it apart this weekend and try to see anything obvious that I did wrong. I was hoping any here knowlegeable could offer some suggestions on things that could go wrong, or problems to look for. thanks, Doug
  13. I just got every single front end bushing (including tension rod bushings) and ball joints/tie rod ends from my local Napa dealer. Had them all in 1 day. They should be available from any good local parts house no problem. Steer clear of the big Pep Boys style supermarket stores and find one that caters to local repair shops. I was surprised to see that these parts were available in several brands as well, some cheaper than others. Doug
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