msavides

I have already tested another ECU it was off a 90 auto. I got the same error code with it too. I am sure that it is not the ECU.

Ok check fuel pressure today and it is right on the money. Exactly as the Nissan manual states. 34 psi at idle with vacuum on the regulator and 44 psi without vacuum on the regulator. Fuel pressure drops gradually as I add vacuum to the regulator. I also replaced the throttle position switch/throttle position sensor. This is the biggest pain in the Butt I have ever had. Adjusting this thing is a royal pain. This thing is touchy and you have to have patience and adjustment skill that would make NASA Proud. I spent over an hour trying to get this thing adjusted per the nissan manual. finally the best I could do was at base idle(without aac connected) 740rpm. got continuity to disconnect at 1190. I am 50 rpm out of spec. but I could not get any better without spending another 2 hours working on it. The main problem is when you tighten the screws it changes sometimes bu a whopping 200 rpm. This was very frustrating. I really hope this fixes the problem, But I am not optimistic, cause I don't see how the TPS can have anything to do with a leaking injector code. UPDATE! this is not fixed. Still have code 45. came on 2 times on me tonight just driving around town. Any other ideas I should try?

That is one thing I have Not done Yet. I loaned out my Fuel pressure tester, I will have to test that, when I get it back. Hopefully this weekend. Going wheeling with some ford guys sunday. Hopefully the guy that I loaned it to is done with it and i can get it back from him then.

So I have been battling this leaking injector (CODE 45) For about 3 years now. Coincidentally right after i install my thorley Headers (Probably not related) 2 years ago I when smog time rolled around I took the chance and cleared the code and took it in to be smogged. I sat there nervously watching as the smog tech guy run the truck through its paces and my heart sank when at the end of the 25mph test the little yellow light popped on. The smog guy immediately let off the gas and got out of the vehicle. He then disconnected all the equipment and proceeded to put the stuff away. He then got in the truck to back it out and i noticed he took a double take at the yellow light. He then proceeded to back out the truck. He then called me over to the truck and told me that there is a problem with my truck but I was lucky since the data was already sent to dmv. But for me to get it fixed. Some of you guys may have seen my list(in a few posts) to things i have replaced trying to remedy the problem. A few people have offered advice and I have tried pretty much everything. Well guess what that was 2 years ago and guess what I get to do every 2 years. Time for smog again. I went through my truck again trying to double check everything. I found a small exhaust leak at the collector pipe on the drivers side. I fixed the leak and began to think could there have been a leak there the whole time that just got progressively worse to the point it was audible. I drove the truck to work and back today to test to see if i could get the CEL to come on before i tried to take it in to be smogged again. I followed the procedure in the Nissan manual that is suppose to get the light to come on. warm engine, drive truck to get the rpm over 2600 rpm for 5 secs, then let idle for 10 secs, repeat 10 plus times. I did this about 50 times no light. so driving to work and back is 150 miles round trip in the bay area. In the morning it is light traffic so i pretty much drive 70mph the whole way there. On the way back in the afternoon it is stop and go reaching 70 mph and the abrupt stop 20 to 30 times on the way home. Still no CEL. So I decide to go for it and take it directly to the smog shop right from work. well there was a 30 min wait at the smog shop. so i let the truck idle until they could get to it. Then they drive it on to the dyno, and I looked through the window in the waiting room and see that my light is still off. I am thinking everything is good, I finally got this thing licked. then the 25 mph test and the FRIGGIN light pops back on again! ARGGGGGGH. SO I am waiting for the guy to come in and tell me I failed. The guy comes in and said I am good to go. Never said a word. I paid the man and got into the truck to go home. Sure thing CEL light burning bright. So Good news, I passed and I have 2 more years to find the problem. Bad I Still have the problem. Off the top of my head here is what i have done. Replaced and tested all 6 injectors, Replaced o2 sensor, Cleaned and even tried a replacement MAF, Checked for vacuum leaks, Replaced fuel filter. More things that i can't remember off the top of my head. Any insight would be appreciated. Mark

Also check to make sure your fan clutch is not locked on causing the engine to be over-cooled. Generally you would hear a deep roaring sound from under the hood when you revved the motor if this was happening.

After reading mu nissan repair manual there are 4 conditions to cause the aac to adjust your idle up. Ac turned on steering wheel turned quickly electric defroster turned on Headlights on high beam there is instructions on how to test to see if your aac is getting the signal to up your idle. I don't remember off hand

My 1991 nissan manual clearly states that federal emissions vehicles do not have the code 45 leaking injector. Don't know where canada falls in that though. However they may have made a change to add that to later models. I do not have a later model so I cannot confirm. and Yes I have checked the MAF wiring. I even hooked Up my spare MAF to it and I still get the error.

I have a feeling we actually do have the same problem, The reason you do not get a code is because that code is only on California Vehicles. so we need to get together and go over what each of us have tried to solve the problem and hopefully we can both can find the solution to the problem. Does you vehicle also have times where the idle drops low and starts to act like it is going to stall. or do you just have the high idle problem.

I have not done it yet. hopefully i will get to it this weekend. I don't think it has anything to do with my check engine light, But it does not hurt to replace it since I already have it. I have not looked at what it takes to replace it, But it does not seem so hard judging by its location. However not sure if there is any adjustments are needed. I will update when I get it done

sound like it is similar to what I am going through. except I get a code 45 leaking injector. I have cleaned out all carbon from the entire intake. it behaves for a couple of weeks and then acts up. I get the high idle then sometimes I get a low idle like it wants to die. I am baffled

I was trying to get a feel for what everyone's alignment specs were. Especially those who have lifted there truck and put larger tires on. Here are my specs with 3 inch suspension lift with 32" tires Front: Left 0.4 Camber 1.5 Caster 0.13 Toe 7.6 SAI 8.0 Included Angle Front: Right 0.7 Camber 1.4 Caster 0.14 Toe 7.4 SAI 8.0 Included Angle Front -0.2 Cross Camber 0.0 Cross Caster 0.2 Cross SAI 0.26 Total Toe Rear: left -0.5 Camber 0.47 Toe Rear: left -0.2 Camber -0.39 Toe Rear -0.3 Cross Camber 0.08 Total Toe 0.43 Thrust Angle

I have a brand new one. Maybe I will give it a try.

the alarm makes you go through multiple hoops on fire in correct order before it will let you remote start it.. before i park my truck. I have to set the parking brake hit the button on my remote then turn off the ignition and remove the key. then without touching anything else i have to exit the truck. the truck locks and arms. then and only then will it remote start. if i open the truck door before remote starting it will not remote start. Kinda a Pita so i hardly use it, still nice to know i can if i want to. It did not cost be any extra for the remote start function.

Good Find!.. That explains a lot. Nice to see companies expanding in these hard economic times.

only switches I know of in a MT is the interlock switch and the clutch safety switch. The interlock bypasses the clutch switch so you can run the starter without pressing the clutch and the clutch switch will not let you crank the starter if you do not have the clutch pressed. I bypassed my clutch switch for my remote start alarm system.

I have a feeling your lowers were old stock and the uppers were new stock. This further supports my thought that they have changed to grease-able within the past 2 years

That was the way it was 2 years ago when I did mine. Even the moog ones did not have zerks. Now most of them out there have zerks. Generally when parts manufacturer cuts cost they will not put option like zerks in. This may mean that they have cut costs other places as well. Or they don't expect the ball joint to last long enough to need to be greased. LOL Hopefully the moog ones will last longer. Time will tell. Or I will just accept the fact that I have to tear my front end apart every year or so.

when I replaced mine the only ball joints I could find locally were ones without zerks. I now look back and think that they were probably low quality. I have read that the uppers that came with the camini UCA are the cheapest you can get. (also without zerks) Now that I am pricing them out again I am finding that they almost all have zerks. I don't know if it means higher quality or not but I hear that the moog joints are one of the best. They are also twice the price. The uppers are real easy to replace I think I will get the cheapest zerk equiped ones for the uppers and get the moogs for the lowers since the lowers are more of a PITA to replace. I have read that Ball joints wear quickly when wheeling Especially when fully locked, I was just curious if any Heavy wheelers have any input on how often they replace there Ball joints. Mark

I am trying to get some input from all you guys here. about 2 years ago I replaced every wearable Item in my front suspension and steering. I also installed Calmini upper control arms that came with new upper ball joints. I have maybe driven the truck 5000 miles since then (this is my wheeling truck only). Now, these are 5000 hard miles. I was under my truck this weekend going through everything to find the source to my uneven tire wear. I noticed that the boots to the ball joints both upper and lower are starting to wear, looks like wear in the middle of the ball joint boot same place on the uppers and the lowers on both sides. the 2 questions here. 1. How long have you guys gotten out of your ball joints. miles or years or both. 2. Are there better quality Ball joints than what is available from autozone/kragen/pep boys. Some notable specs on my truck. that could create more wear than a normal application ARB front locker, 32 inch tires, Calmini heavy duty steering, Calmini upper control arms, Rancho 5000 shocks, Mark

From what I seen Toyota has been far from even RE-active. They blew off their problems for months blaming everything but there electronics (defending the electrics and Blaming the driver) instead of even trying to fix the problem. They are still adamant there is not an issue with there electronics. I sure hope for there sake that they don't find out it was really the electronics. Just my opinion.

you didn't happen to have any codes or check engine lights did you ?

I replaced my IAC valve with a new one. However it did not help mine. I think I may have a different problem, I also get a code 45 (leaking injector) I have replaced all of my injectors with refurbished ones and I still have the same problem. I am still stuck. I have also changed my o2 sensor and my MAF sensor. Not sure what to try next. Mark

Now in addition to searching inventory when you click on a yard you can now see that yards price list. So now I can see if I can afford the part before I even step foot in the yard AWESOME!!

damn. I jealous. I will have to keep looking to see if any more pop up. Hey Looks like I am pretty local to you, Let me know if you want to go wheeling some time. We have a snow wheeling trip coming up 1-30-10 to uncle tom's cabin. let me know if your interested in going. Mark

The 2 rules to having a long life autotragic Transmission. Keep the fluid cool and Keep the fluid Clean. This goes for any vehicle. I would recommend anyone to put a external cooler and external filter on their automatic transmissions. Even thought there is already an internal filter in the oil pan, by putting on an external filter it will keep your internal from getting dirty (the external filter will be finer) and it is a hell of a lot easier to change than that internal filter. just my 2 Cents mark