msavides

Brass was a little pricey But It was not that bad as it is only 1/8 inch. (looks larger in the picture) If I had ordered all the parts for this compressor the first time I would have bought the 3 way T push locks. But It was a quick swap so I ran down to OSH and picked up the fittings. I think total for all the fittings I used there was like $15.

Tank is the rear bumper. It works out to be about 900 cubic inches of tank (just under 5gal)

After messing with tweaking retweaking, Redesigning, and still having problems. I decided to stop being such a cheap a$$ and spend some money, I went cheap with a lincoln Mark VII air bag compressor. It worked great for the lockers, however it would only air up one tire before thermal protection kicked in and I would have to wait 20 mins for it to cool down enough to reset. Well I decided to spend the money on a 100% duty cycle compressor this time, Of course all my custom mounts had to be rebuilt, SIGH!. This is what I came up with. Let the tweaking begin, Any comments or ideas to tweak are welcomed. Thanks Mark Old set up with Lincoln Mark VII Compressor New setup with Viar 100% duty cycle compressor

I did nothing. This is just a curiosity. I thought it would make a good game to see who could come up with the 2 that looked Identical or the closest to being identical. There may not even be 2 identical Pathfinders. Just thought we could post up pics of the 2 each of us thought were the closest and maybe even create a poll for the top closest ones and have everyone vote on it. Just a fun little game Mark

There are probably better photos out there but here Mr Pickles Mr Jim

What 2 NPORA Members have Pathfinders that could pass for one another. (look Identical)

Might be Moved to 14th of November. I will keep this page updated. On for this weekend. I will post pics in the photo section after the trip.

the last bit of info would point to the vacuum brake booster. It is the only thing that would effect the engine running. Perhaps a bad check valve in the brake booster.

I think about 9 out of 10 Nissan Starters die like this. I think they say it is a flat spot on the armature of the starter motor. The starter will start fine as long as it does not land on that spot. Then the motor will not turn. I have known several people that have kept there starter going for months by tapping the starter. This causes the the brushes to move just enough off the flat spot of the armature. The problem is eventually it will completely die. and no amount of tapping will work. People will even remove the starter and bench test it and through the act of removing the starter or bumping it as they take the starter out will make it start working again (just ask SLICK) LOL. don't be tempted to put it back in. It will only fail. Also A lot of these re manufactured Nissan starters have these problems right out of the box. They test them at the factory, but it is random to hit the flat spot and with new brushes it will have enough surface contact with the armature to work just fine until it either hits that flat spot or the brushes wear enough to not make good contact on the flat spot. so Buyer Beware when Purchasing Remanufactured starters. also Oil on the brushes or the armature will cause this same thing to happen and we all know where the oil goes when we pull the oil filter off. Just A little more of my 2 cents. As if anyone wanted it. Mark

Trip is this weekend. Anyone Wanna go. I will be the only Nissan there. Mark

the bolts will look just like the transmission bolts they will go through the bellhousing of the transmission through a backing plate and then thread into the starter. Bolt head should be visible from transmission side not the starter/engine side. just look at the bolts that hold the transmission on and remove the 2 bolts that line up with the starter.

I think the Key is (pardon the pun) To get the key cut as accurate as possible and not so much the quality of the key itself. If the key works smoothly (cut properly) you should not have to put much pressure to turn the key and it should not break. An improperly cut (even slightly off) will put extra wear on the key and on the tumblers on the lock. That is why I always stick to the 1 copy rule. I have an original cut. and make only 1 copy from the original. I never make a copy of a copy. When I bought my truck. the key that came with it was from Ace hardware and was worn considerably. It did not well in any lock (only when wiggled in the lock) It would not even open the rear glass hatch lock (the most unused lock on the truck) This makes since cause the lock was in practically new condition and the key was worn. The tumblers had not worn out with the key. I was not going to make a copy of that old key. When I got my new keys cut from Nissan it worked perfectly and smoothly in the glass hatch lock. This told me that the key was cut properly and was not going to cause unnecessary wear. This key also work quite well in every other lock on the pathfinder as well. It is much cheaper to replace you key every year then replace the most used lock cylinder when it wears out. especially if you keep an original cut key unused and use it only to make a copies. And getting a key made of a harder metal could cause the tumblers to take all the wear. This is just my take on it. others may have a different opinion. Mark

bolts heads go from the transmission and thread into the starter. If i remember correctly. it has been a while

Interesting! Does the old one and the new one look the same. I did not think the stock starter was a gear reduction. Perhaps it is.

I am guessing from the price difference and that it is smaller, that the vg-33 starter may be a gear reduction starter. Trust me if it is $40 more is well worth it if it is indeed a gear reduction starter. It will use less amps and create less heat when cranking which translates into longer life. Can someone confirm if the vg-33 starter is in fact gear reduction? Mark

There is a little shelf like area under the starter that likes to collect oil when you pull the oil filter off. as you drive this will cause the oil to dribble down the back of the engine. Check to make sure there is not oil collecting there.

Man, I would almost want to try another ECU. Perhaps check the wiring to the ECU

arb lockers and airing up tires after wheeling

here is a photo of the key. It was a curtis brand key.

I could have put mine there but where would I put my compresssor

Here is a pic of the greased Idler Arm with the new Bushings

I greased mine with my pneumatic grease gun and they still did not have a spec of grease in the bushings. For the year that i had it installed i was pushing in the mobile one grease (it is Red) and when I tore it apart there was only a small bit of red grease mixed into the yellow grease that was there from factory. When I installed the Bandit bushings the first grease (only took 3 presses on the grease gun) and the grease came out the bushings. Now I know there is grease in them. I would definitely get the bandit 4x4 bushings instead of the sending the IA to Calmini for bushings. I was planning on doing the spherical bearing mod (I even ordered the parts) but decided to try the bandit bushings first, as once I did the mod for the spherical bearings I could not go back to bushings. Mark

Aftermarket set of bushings for calmini IA are available. These have grease channels as the stock Calmini Bushings Have no Channels. (How do they expect the Bushings not to wear if they do not have grease channels) See link below, Scroll to the bottom for the Calmini stuff. http://xterrafirma.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=printview&t=6190&start=0 I have installed these in my Calmini They fit perfectly. Xterra and Pathfinder Calmini bushings are the same. Mark

My keys I got from the dealer were definitely better quality than the ones you get from the local hardware store. The were nice heavy with rubber heads, They were not Nissan keys though.

Actually the filters are further from the transmission than they look in the photo. If it was really that close I would not be able to remove the filter cause as I unthread the filter it would hit the transmission. Also I ran 2 smaller filters initially, now I am running one stock pathfinder filter an a small one. I plan on using a ph8 and a small filter in the future. I already had bought a bunch of stock pathfinder filters so I want to use them up. Still have plenty of room from the transmission. I have been running this for well over a year and have not had any issues with it. Not a scratch scuff or dent in either filter. In this place it is actually further from exhaust and the wheels than the stock position. Mark