msavides

I used 3m marine grade adheasive and filled in where it shrunk. once dried I trimmed it to match the molding where it shrunk with a razer blade. looks good and cant really tell

these things are all over on ebay new. been eying a black tinted one. still have not bought it yet

Thanks for the pic. I am missing the bottom L bracket that mounts to the floor. The bracket that uses the push clips is still on it. I will have to find one the next time I am at a bone yard. The wd21s are drying up around here. There was only one in the last Pick n Pull i went to, it is 60 miles away so I don't get out there much. No Pick N pulls around me.

I mean the guy bypassed the ignition switch and ran a wire all the way to the starter, and hooked up a push button to crank the starter. I had to yank the wires out and fix the starter relay and hook it back up with the factory wiring. It is starting to look like a decent vehicle, I know got to figure out how to fix all the screw holes in all the plastic trim peices he screwed into. trying to find a drivers side parking brake cable for rear disc is impossible. the guy cut the cables and used cable u bolts to tie the cables together. That ofcourse did not work. he spliced in the headlight socket to wire up his fog lamps and melted the bulb socket. gotta fix that too

This is becoming a lot of work Spent the last weekend reversing all the band-aids and rigging the previous owners have done to this vehicle. removed 2 inches of silicone from rear cargo area windows, heated the warped window trim and got it to sit back flush, sealed with black marine grade adheasive. removed the 30 + screws that were used to incorrectly hold things on. removed the 15 + wirenuts under the hood used to run wiring and rig up ignition system Removed vinyl sagging plastic headliner peice and cleaned and painted and reattached. removed 6 layers of paint used on the lego rim hub caps, repainted. fixed cigarette burns in seats, then put seat covers on them removed lights from bumper. replaced grill that they notched to fix lights on bumper vacuumed and steam cleaned carpet and seats painted coroded battery tray changed transmission fluid and engine oil doing complete front end rebuild this weekend: brakes, rotors, ball joints, controll arm bushings, bearings, manual locking hubs, shocks, folowing weekend: installing new stereo and speakers, alarm system , fix door locks, speedometer replacement, recover door panels.

i found the programing instuctions for the remote, but I think I will replace it with an after market remote start pager unit. I don't have much faith in the relibility of factory nissan alarms. I also noticed that the ABS module is located under the drivers seat as well. it was screwed to a wood block. I know this was not factory and was wondering how it was mounted from factory. I think I am missing a bracket under the seat to mount the abs module to.

II was wonderin about the factory alarm system . is it itegrated with the door locks. Has anyone removed the factory alarm and put in an aftermarket? were all the connectors for the factory alarm usable for the aftermarket alarm. I know on my 91 se, the alarm was just the rocker switch with not remote. This one uses a remote, However I did not get it with the car. was wondering if it is worth trying to find a remote and see if the factory one works., What is the likelyhood of the factory alarm still being funtional. My first thought is to just replace it with an aftermarket. Just wondering if it is going to be like chasing down wires in the kick panel and the column like it was with moy other pathfinders or if most of the wires will be under the drivers seat with the factory module.,

Thank you .. It was there. I am really only used to 90-91 pathfinders where it is a separate switch. However looks like there is one more thing to work on, as the rear wiper is not moving. When I put spin the switch I hear a click back there but not wiper blade. Perhaps the motor is bad.

JUst Bought a 1994 SE to go along with 1990 XE and 1991 SE I cannot find the rear wiper switch. can anyone verify its location.

It is the interrior temp sensor tube. it has a little fan in there that draws air from the cabin so it can get a reading. it is used when you put you ac or heater in the auto position. it will cycle your fan up or down as the temp you set is reached.

I just did the tortion bar crank to raise 2". I did eventually get sway away Tbars. I had to lower it for the aftermarket shafts. when I put my oem shafts back in, I raised it back up again. have not had an issue since.

with a lifted front end, I found that the aftermarket cv axles bound up. this could be because the OEM axles were worn in before I lifted the front suspension. I ended up breaking one of new new CSP axles shortly after replaceing it. I saved my oem axles and put new boots on them so I was able to put them back in. the broken axle also took out one of my warn premuim hubs. the hubs cost over twice the price of the axle. keep this in mind if you have a frnt suspension lift. you may have to lower it until the axles get a bit of wear on them and can move freely without binding at the lifted angles. this was on a WD21, not sure if there is much difference on the R50

There are less and less of our vehicles on the road everyday. parts houses are only going to carry parts for the most popular cars. they only have so much stock room. I have also noticed after market parts going out of stock online, and the prices doubling. the warn manual locking hub are now $300 for the wd21. i bought mine for $130 10 years ago. and spares for $160 5 years ago. less and less vehicles at the junkyard as well.

mine was code 45.

I had this problem when I lived in California. I replaced injectors, Replaced the ECU, Tried everything. sometimes it would take 3 smog attempts. It was hit and miss after I cleared the check engine light when it would do it again. I would clear the code take it in for a smog and keep my fingers crossed it woud pass. The last time I took it in to get smogged the check engine light stayed off until the end. It had already passed on the machine so the Smog tech guy warned me that I needed to get this fixed. The funny thing is I moved to oregon and I have not needed to get it smogged here, since it is smog exempt here. But the Check engine light has not come on once after fueling up with Oregon gas. I have been here over 4 years. I am wondering if this has more to do with what they put in the Fuel in california than the failed injector. The error code I got was some kind of injector curcuit. It translated to a partially clogged Injector. (iregular spray pattern) It would not burn completly and trigger the error somehow.

Unfortunately, nobody wants to risk the liability of making or drilling out the adjuster I wish it was on the inner tie rod side that way I could just cut and split the tie rod with a cutting tool to release the Adjuster, But Alas it is on the outer Female side of the adjuster. It is on there so good that I have used Heat, cold, Broke a 10" bench Vise trying to use a 10 foot cheater bar on the end of a wrench. (That is when I gave up) Thanks for the info, I just ordered the HD adjusters from 4x4parts. Read that the Calmini adjusters are too long for the stock TREs. Beside they probably don't have those in stock.

I have not been around the forums too much lately. My 91 Pathfinder has just been sitting in the garage due to alignment woes. I bought a calmini HD steering kit years ago. A couple years ago I took my truck to the alignment shop and they said they could not adjust the Tie rods because the adjuster was seized. I took it home and preceded to tear it apart. I tried everything to get this adjuster off the outer TRE. It will not budge, it is like it is welded on. I Hopped on Calmini's web site and ordered an adjuster for $90. It is now over 2 years later and I still have not got my adjuster. I have called them about 30 times and all I get is we are looking for someone to machine them it will be a couple of weeks. I The other day I decided to look into alternatives. The problem is the Stock inner TRE are way too small .511 - .59. they will not wedge in. Calmini's adjuster is a male thread at m14-1.5 (inner) to Female M16-1.5 (outer) Nothing like that that I can find. The Calmini Inners TRE are off a 2004 xterra (Wedge is .708) I could not find any matching M16 Inner TRE that has a .708 wedge. I imagine that is why Calmini made the Adjuster to M14. After spending 3 hours Looking on Moog's website I think I found the combination that will work. It is using those same Calmini Inner TRE with the Same Xterra Adjusters. Male to Male M14-1.5 to a Moog-ES3413 Here is what I came up with Outer TRE Moog-ES3412 3.7" M14-1.5 Female wedge .511 - .59 replacing stock TRE Stock outer Moog-ES3002r 5.12" m16-1.5r Male wedge .521 - .59 Adjuster Moog-ES3090S 6.63" M14-1.5 Male to Male Replacing Calmini custom Adjuster M14-1.5 Male to M16-1.5 Female Inner TRE Moog-ES3660 3.7" M14-1.5 Female Wedge .708 Same as Calmini Inner TRE I am concerned about Weakening My steering. Although I already had half my Steering reduced from M16 to M14 Again, The 2004 Xterra TRE assemblies are stock like this M-14 to M-14 to M-14. Does anyone know of Xterra steering being weaker that WD-21's steering? If anyone is interested, I will post pics of the assembly when I get it and install it.

I adjusted mine ages ago. I believe mine was not a screwdriver it was a stud sticking out of the nut to lock it in place, I used a (I think) 4 or 5 mm open end and a 12 mm boxen for the lock nut. I could not tell much difference in adjusting it.

I remember that write up. I think I remember it cautioning against tightening it up when the wheels were straight. or was it when the wheels were all the way right or left. There was a specific warning that if over tightened when the wheels were in the wrong position and you then turned the wheel it would fork it up really good.

I just tested 91 SE. with the engine running (i must have tried this about 50 times) I slowly pressed the brake pedal, it goes down completely smoothly then just firms up and stops. I even tried to push the pedal harder still nothing. I even tried to push my pedal quickly, still no bump. are there any adjustments on the brake pedal push rod that may have been adjusted?

been running braided SS lines on my 91 for over 10 years now. no issues so far. I did not feel a difference between the rubber and ss either.

Man, You got some patience. If I were this far into it I would have said F it and replaced all the soft lines on the entire system, Maybe even with braided Stainless steel lines. I probably will be going through this with my 91. In fact I already have the Braided stainless steel lines. Just got my rebuilt master. The 91 has rear drums and I have already replaced the Wheel cylinders. just need to replace front calipers and I will have everything replaced. That is worst case.

I would think if the fronts have air in them then the pressure is going to go to the path of least resistance. ( shortest lines first) the air is going to compress easier that the fluid.

Well then That is where I will start with my 1990 pathfinder. I was hoping your problem did not have anything to do with ABS since my 90 does not have it. I will have to locate a Booster for my 90 and see if that fixes it.

I reread your post from the beginning trying to determine when you first experienced the soft pedal. Only thing I can think of is that you may have one or both bad calipers. Since the pedal was fine before replacing those. You also said that when you release the brake pedal the calipers have quite a bit of space between the pads and the pistons. That is not right. The piston should still be resting on the pad with the pedal released. Do both front calipers do this or is it just one? I have had a leaking master before and besides running out of fluid there was no performance issue with the master.