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helix66

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  • Posts

    14
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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1993 3"BL 33x10.5 on Legos, sliders, beefier rear links, un-swayed
  • Place of Residence
    CA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1993

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  1. That's what I figured, mine would hit badly.
  2. If you get hooohass CL and do this mod you'll be pretty well set, as solid as you can be with ifs. I have one of the original stage2 steering setups from L&P performance, and it came with a double shear IA & brace.....I no longer need the IA. I'm hoping when I can sas that I can sell the steering setup.
  3. So what's that mean, that you cry and call AAA With a 4wd vehicle and manual hubs you stand and infinitely better chance of extracting yourself, the autos are a crap shoot. Here's my last auto hub experience after which I sold them, winter in Brooklyn, we had about three feet of snow, I was parked and some Dbag parked behind me and I had almost no room to get out because as I went forwards and backwards in the small space I had it was only enough to lock-unlock the hubs, they wouldn't re-lock. It took forever and too much shoveling. Glad you realize that the manuals are better though!
  4. Where I was in NYC, safelite was over $200, as were most legit shops. The place I went to didn't change the trim, they reused all the old stuff (I thought they all do that?) and now my roof is rusting, I love saving money on incompetent work.
  5. Autos blow, all they are is convenient, period. If you drive in snow and have to rock back and forth the autos will cycle lock-unlock-lock, and if you don't have enough room youo can get stuck, if you wheel at all the manuals are the way to go, period.
  6. Well the funny part is that it will cost you less than any aftermarket IA & brace and is about 1000x stronger. A bunch of us out here have done it, the two guys I mentioned have long since sas'd, I'm hoping to do that when I can. I was looking for the bronze bushings for my L&P stage 2 steering set up (new CL with beefed up ends with bearings & double shear IA & brace), there was an engineer with an xterra who was making them for the price you said. This cost $40 from the pick a part, and an hour or so of modding it and I'll never have an idler arm/IA shaft issue again. If you don't get out and wheel your truck at all beyond a dirt road you'll probably never have a problem staying with the oem setup, put on 33s and wheel a bit and you'll see!
  7. Hence the 3.3! I really don't think port matching or polishing will make much if any difference with the vg3.0. Also you're not supposed to use 5th when towing.
  8. That looks cool, but I don't see how your shifters don't hit your cups when in 1st, 4th, reverse or 4Lo. Mine has the 3" BL, maybe that makes the shifters hit that. The ones I did were using two spill master juniors from pepboys, they work pretty well.
  9. I went the cheap route like mentioned, iirc it was $150installed, and they did a @!*% job and now I have rust around my windshield. I'm tempted to remove it and repair the rust but I have some idea of how to get it out but no idea how to get it back in.
  10. I figured I'd post this as a new topic since I replied a bit too late to be of any use in another post and this is one of the best and cheapest mods you can do with some results that any IA brace doesn't even come close to. I have a 3" body lift that helps this fit in pretty easy,and some minor modification to the bumper mounting bracket is needed (all visible in the pix). Thanks to theKing & bodyman909 for this mod and helping my junk to be road worthy yet again! I have the now defunct L&P stage 2 steering setup (beefed up center link and double shear IA), the IA has bronze bushings that ride on the IA shaft and outlast the stock nylon version. The problem is that that they eventually wear out and no one seems to make them except for a handful of guys who have had local machine shops make limited runs, that translates to $50 plush S&H to you. For less than that you can go to your favorite local JY and spend $40 on a manual steering box, and a power steering pitman arm and be done with it forever...until you sas it! you will not need the IA brace and can sell your aftermarket junk to cover your costs. We went to a JY and got a manual box from a hard body, then we pulled a pitman arm off of a power steering box that was on a WD21 80s pathfinder (and keep the bolts too!). Before you install it you can take the box apart and remove what I believe is called the sector shaft (the part the steering shaft attaches to) as it isn't needed. TheKing welded up the hole left from removing the shaft but I'm sure you could silicone the thing closed to keep crud out. The manual box will bolt in place of your idler arm and the power steering pitman arm will replace the one on the manual box. The two holes at the bottom line up perfectly, the two upper holes need to be slotted, one at the top the other at the bottom. It's easy enough to do with a hack saw as the metal is soft. We used the bolts from the JY pitman arm, the original idler arm ones are too short. On the slotted holes we used washers, lock washers and nylocks to hold it on. Also you will have to unbolt the p/s line mount so that they can be laid flat on the frame rail away from the steering box you are installing. I had thought that my new ni$$an ball joints were quitting, but it was the IA slop, now it's all good! You will want to bring a pitman arm puller with you to make things easier, and don't forget to keep the bolts from the manual steering box! The final result: Top view (you can see the slotted hole on the right side): Top view of the driver's side power steering box just for comparison (why you want the manual steering box):
  11. I have a 93 and it has something like that, and they completely suck balls. IMO it sucks to drive to drive with the lid open on the console and drip crap inside it and also not have a pile of junk stowed in the way and they are really weak!
  12. From what I've read there isn't much you can do to make it less of a pig, short of a supercharger or changing to a 3.3L.
  13. Here's mine, they work way better than the original idiotic set up. I used a thick chunk of plexiglass as a platform and also to raise the tops of a regular cup just above the seat.
  14. I guess you already settled on one, the third, cheapest and strongest option is to replace the IA with a manual steering box, it works great and only takes a bit of modding and none of those options will be close to the strength it offers. Thanks to theKing & bodyman909 for this mod and helping my junk to be road worthy yet again! I have the now defunct L&P stage 2 steering setup (beefed up center link and double shear IA), the IA has bronze bushings that ride on the IA shaft and outlast the stock nylon version. The problem is that that they eventually wear out and no one seems to make them except for a handful of guys who have had local machine shops make limited runs, that translates to $50 plush S&H to you. For less than that you can go to your favorite local JY and spend $40 on a manual steering box, and a power steering pitman arm and be done with it forever...until you sas it! you will not need the IA brace and can sell your aftermarket junk to cover your costs. We went to a JY and got a manual box from a hard body, then we pulled a pitman arm off of a power steering box that was on a WD21 80s pathfinder (and keep the bolts too!). Before you install it you can take the box apart and remove what I believe is called the sector shaft (the part the steering shaft attaches to) as it isn't needed. TheKing welded up the hole left from removing the shaft but I'm sure you could silicone the thing closed to keep crud out. The manual box will bolt in place of your idler arm and the power steering pitman arm will replace the one on the manual box. The two holes at the bottom line up perfectly, the two upper holes need to be slotted, one at the top the other at the bottom. It's easy enough to do with a hack saw as the metal is soft. We used the bolts from the JY pitman arm, the original idler arm ones are too short. On the slotted holes we used washers, lock washers and nylocks to hold it on. Also you will have to unbolt the p/s line mount so that they can be laid flat on the frame rail away from the steering box you are installing. I had thought that my new ni$$an ball joints were quitting, but it was the IA slop, now it's all good! You will want to bring a pitman arm puller with you to make things easier, and don't forget to keep the bolts from the manual steering box! The final result: Top view (you can see the slotted hole on the right side): Top view of the driver's side power steering box just for comparison (why you want the manual steering box):

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