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About DoctorBill

  • Birthday 01/01/1910

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '95 4x4 167,000 miles nice shape bought used $1,000. No records of maintenance available ! Body good shape.
  • Place of Residence
    Spokane, WA (near the "jumpgate")
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Do Not Go Off-Road
  • Model
  • Year

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  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    4th planet out from Alpha Centauri System (heading - 87° mark 10)
  • Interests
    PhD in Chemistry - teach college Chem.<br /><br />Nearly everything is interesting.<br /><br />But I get bored easily.

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  1. DoctorBill here....I'm baaaack.....I did the Timing Belt with Auto Cooler thread about a year ago. A mechanic told me my front wheel bearings are worn on both sides. I was asking about the price to repack them when he said they'd need replacing. 177,000 on the vehicle. About $450 parts and labor. Then the drive shaft boots are torn on both sides. About $600 to replace them with new. I am thinking about having a go at that myself....this summer when the weather in nice. Give me the brutal truth - is this a real bugger to do or not ? I am 68 and can't do much physical w/o hurting all over. If it involves needing to 'press' the bearings out and in, I'll let the mechanic do it all for $1,000. Let me know. DoctorBill
  2. If you are going to give up and go buy a new switch or get a used one at the wrecking yard, why not open the old one up first and have a "go at it" ? My wife's '97 Suzuki Sport Sidekick had this same problem - many of the functions of the master switch just didn't work or were weak. I pulled the switch out, was about to give up - decided to go for broke and opened the thing up. Complex as hell when I first looked at the guts....then after studying how each swtich works (all the same way) I was able to take each one of the non-functioners apart. They were tiny half-inch rocker switches with tiny curved metal, spring plates. After years of making and breaking contact under several amps load, the sparking had pitted and blackened where the copper ends made contact. I scraped both the top and bottom contact areas clean of black residue and depitted the copper by more scraping. Have a small piece of emery paper available and a hobby knife like a scalpel plus long nose pliers. An old worn out emery fingernail file works well for getting the black oxide off of the contact points. I applied a small amount of ZINC OXIDE OINTMENT to the contact points (old electronic engineering secret) so that they are covered and when they spark, oxygen is kept out and Zinc metal plates onto the copper. I reassembled the complex switch (Takes some REAL PATIENCE and care) and now it works like a new switch that cost several hundreds of dollars at the Dealer. This was scary to do - watch out that tiny parts and springs don't fly out or get lost. For God's sake, take only one switch apart at a time ! Work on a clean sheet spread out underneath you and don't get distracted. Try it - what have you got to lose ? Just be very, very patient and don't break any of the plastic. Try to understand how each part works - maybe take digital photos even ! If you get lost, go back and look at the close up photos to get back to where you were. Hey you old guys ! Wear your reading glasses while doing this ! Remember - hundreds of dollars.... DoctorBill
  3. Arrrggggg ! If the Ball Joints are worn also....! The mechanic who was doing this said it is the wheel bearings. I have to trust that this guy knows his stuff - he owns the shop and would know the difference - been fixing cars all his life. These 4x4's are money pits. I keep thinking that I paid $1,000 for this '95 Pathfinder and could be making payments on a newer $35,000 SUV...but this $1,000 here and $2,500 there are too much. Apparently I can leave it until Spring to do the wheel bearings and axles. Don't believe the previous owners were 'off roaders' (old people) so the wheel bearings shouldn't go TU real soon. I just need to do both at once for obvious reasons. It will snow again here (all melted now) soon and I'll see how my newly installed Mile Marker Manual Hubs work out versus the Auto Hubs. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29063 So far, this '95 Pathfinder has performed well in the snow - reason I bought it. I think it is a bit underpowered though - 3 L for 5,500 lbs of steel seems light. DoctorBill
  4. Had my '95 V6-XE 4x4 checked out - Mile Marker Manual Hubs put on, too. The rubber boots on the CV Axles are shot. The right Front Wheel Bearings are loose - I could feel the wheel rock when I grabbed the Top & Bottom of the tire and tried to move it. Repack Wheel Bearings and maybe replace the Bearings - ARGGGG ! Should do both jobs at the same time. So - cost estimates....CV Driveshaft portion only... Having the Boots replaced - Estimate Boots replaced - Parts $65 Labor $375 Total $486 Buying NEW CV Driveshafts and seals - Estimate CV Driveshafts - $$183 Labor $435 Total $681 Repacking and/or replacing the Front Wheel Bearings - Probably another $600 added on ? Anybody had this done of late ? - what did it cost (Parts & Labor) ? DoctorBill
  5. Mine appear to work fine backing up, but I THINK they go out of lock then re-lock as you back more. What appeared to happen to me is that on a hill waiting for a light to change on an icy road, they went out of lock (when I rolled back a few inches ?) and left me in 2 wheel when I needed to go forward. I may be wrong. But I want to put on regular locking hubs so they are always locked while I have the shift lever in 4x4. DoctorBill
  6. ahardb0dy - I don't follow you...I have a set of those (metric and English). They are allen head wrenches that fit a rachet driver...(?) Yes - tap them into the bolt head all the way. I'll try for hand loosening first with a 3/8 rachet handle. If they won't move, then - What I want to do is tap on them for a while (vibration) and then use my air driven rachet driver to loosen them (again vibration)... maybe my air hammer I use to loosen wheel lug nuts - at low pressure to make more vibration than torque.... Actually, what I may do is have 'my mechanic' I use do the job inside his shop (NAPA) so that if one or more breaks off, he can get them out. Right now it is worth paying him versus me squatting in the rain, snow and wind doing myself. I'm too old and chrotchety for that rubbish. DoctorBill
  7. The weather is so Gawd Awful right now, I don't even want to run the Garbage cans out to the end of the driveway ! Every so often, I give the bolts on the Auto-Hubs a squirt of KROIL hoping it loosens the bolt threads. Maybe if I do that every few days, it will get in there ! Probably not. Lord is it nice to have 4x4 in this weather here in Eastern Washington ! Gotta love 4x4 ! The Doofuses in Western Washington, where it hardly ever snows want to outlaw studded snow tires....Liberals ! DoctorBill
  8. At about 35 mph, a ticking sound starts up and the tick rate goes up with my speed. I cannot tell where - front, back - where ? Not the engine - no sound with engine rpm. Had this before on several vehicles and I never could finger out what it was. I suspect something on the brakes or wheels that centrifugal force makes come in contact with the rotating wheels. I could be wrong. Can anyone clue me in to what this might be from ? I am one of those types who worries about every noise - especially from a 4x4 which are always "Money Pits" for constant, expensive problems. DoctorBill
  9. The title says it all. Mine squirts down from the top of the window. Is there a reservoir somewhere in the back for the washer fluid ? DoctorBill
  10. What page of the FSM was your posted diagram from ? Did your six Allen-Head bolts come out easily ? I'd like to put Permatex Anti-Seize Grease on the new bolt threads so I can get them out later on w/o them breaking off. I'd just have to watch them for a while making sure they don't come loose... DoctorBill
  11. I follow your posting. Is what Mile Marker shows in their Instruction sheet under "REMOVE PARTS SHOWN" wrong, then ? What is that "Drive Flange" plate in the upper part of the diagram ? I don't see that in your diagram, ahardb0dy. This is what has me confused. DoctorBill
  12. I love my 4x4 Pathfinder ! But today the damned Nissan Auto-hubs screwed me over. There was ice on the roads today like a skating Pond ! As I was leaving, I pulled up to an inclined stop light intersection at the College. It was in 4x4, but apparently the Auto-Hubs went out of lock because I couldn't move an inch ! Wheels spun, cars waiting behind me - I was going nowhere ! I have studded Snow Tires on the Pathfinder ! Some nice young guy stepped out and pushed me until I got purchase and could pull out into a right turn. Nice fellow ! So - my Mile Marker Manual Hubs have arrived a few days ago. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28766&view=findpost&p=548098 Would someone explain how I change them out or give a link showing what to do ? Do I have to jack the vehicle up and remove the wheels ? From the one page destructions included, it looks like I have to remove the old Auto-Hubs and a plate they are screwed into - yes ? The weather here in Spokane, WA is colder than a Witch's Hands and snowing again. Don't want to get started and then get stuck half way thru as I have to have the 4x4 every day right now. DoctorBill
  13. I received the Mile Marker Hubs from 4WhellOnline.com today via UPS. They look good. 90 day warranty. No invoice with the package. 4WheelOnline sent them when they said they would. Had they told me these were a special order item right up front, I would not have anything to criticize them for. OK - Apparently I have to remove the Drive Flange and Gasket before installing these babies. I assume I have to jack the vehicle up to do this....take the wheel off. Is there anything I should watch out for - be aware of when doing this replacement ? DoctorBill
  14. I ordered the Mile Maker hubs for my '95 Nissan from 4wheelonline.com on 12-5. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28766&view=findpost&p=548098 You wouldn't know that I had done anything except that they debited my VISA card on 12-8 for $114.26 ! They pay the shipping. I finally asked them what was going on....they said the item won't get in until 28 December....never heard from them again. Supposedly a special order item - which was not elucidated on the order page... Is this normal behavior for 4wheelonline.com ? I am not a happy camper, as it were. I am surprised that no one has commented on this mail order outfit.... guess very few order from them. Wish I had known better. DoctorBill
  15. Has anyone looking at this ever ordered anything from http://4wheelonline.com/ ? They say don't even ask about a tracking number until 4-5 days after ordering ! Most places ship the next day or the day after.... Are these people really slow to ship ? DoctorBill PS - Edited in later. E-Mailed Customer Support today (10th - 5 days later) and asked about my order. Got this back: "I called the warehouse and the manager told me the part is a special order. So the current due date is 12-28-10. Thank you, Jed V. 4 Wheel Online Customer Service www.4wheelonline.com 1-813-769-2451 1-813-769-2467- Fax" Funny thing - my VISA was debited $114.26 two days ago..... I had to ask before they let me know it was not in stock. Their web site did not say it was a special order item, either. "Supposed" to be in 2.5 weeks from now then add shipping time. You be the judge about this place.....

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