Rebelord

I did that plus hoses. Upper and lower radiator, those little elbow hoses.

Hawairish: Ever drove or ridden in a 80's F350, or Dodge 1ton. Thats what it was like when a local guy down here put on AC springs. Guys say they are stiff at first then settle down. But man, my kidney's and liver are already abused by me.

AC springs are around 220# there is a thread or post on the forum where someone had em tested or actually has a quote from AC. As far as the OME springs. They are pretty good. If you need more. Get the air bags. In the pic I'm loaded down for a 5day camping trip with the family. Held up well. Total droop was not much. Basically made the truck level. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

You can certainly obtain the parts from a junk yard vehicle. Coil packs and connectors and wiring. Even the pressure regulators. I can understand they don't because of the uncertainty of condition. Where as new parts they can garuntee them for a time period. Of course they have their own mark up on the parts. If you buy them yourself they may just charge a few extra labor hours. I don't know your relationship with the mechanic. See what you can work out with them. Possible payment plan. Hell if it's a smaller shop. Throw ideas out there? If your available, help them with the phones? Make them lunch for the week they are working on your truck. Sometimes the smallest simple things can really make someones day and sway them. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Have you followed the FSM for the code? It has a good troubleshooting path for the code. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Replacing the rack is easy. No need to huge markup for a part you can swap yourself in a few hours. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

As said clean and inspect the bearings good. You could try just getting some flanges from the junkyard. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Front carrier out, disassembled, started Lokka install. Ran into a few snags, but will have more time this week for it.

Also check your oil. If low, you get those codes. At the same time if you have gunk in oil system they'll foul out. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

The hub splines should be tight to the outer output splines of the cv axles. A groan sound is either a grind or bearings. Yes you repacked them. But your races may be shot. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

The only vents for the rear are under the front seats. You have to put it on top and floor to get air to the rear. Tint is your friend. As dark as legal or you can handle for the rear and legal for the front. *highly illegal, but some places will do a very light 38% or so on the windshield. Not enough to darken, but adds some extra protection. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Just wait it out unless someone sells some. Or do the springs and see how you like it. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Heat is your friend on stubborn bolts like that. But using a torch, eh bad things can happen. Otherwise if you have access to a lift. Run the truck, let it idle for a while. 30mins or so, put it in the air and try to bust em loose. Its the front ones your looking to replace correct? If its the rear two after, both sets of O2 sensors, you could use a pipe as a temporary solution, But any DOT or emission inspection will fail you in a heartbeat. As for just removing them? You think you have codes and issues now? It'll be worse.

As for brake upgrades. Slotted, sure. Drilled? Nah not worth it. I did try some on my 99. First time in mud, major PITA to clean out the rotors. Not good, stay away. As for bigger breaks? Well, there is only one option. That is to install 00+ brakes. Which are slightly bigger diameter. However, along with the rotors you will also need to change out the caliper mount brackets to clearance the bigger rotors. Same pads. Does it work? YES! Downside, can no longer run 15 inch wheels. Must run 16s or larger with proper back spacing to clear the calipers.

I have torn my Rockford CV boots. They are not bullet proof.