PFFlier

Yes, it was leaking, which is what started this whole project. You could see where dirt was stuck to the oil flung on the floor aboveand the exhaust as well as all over the front of the diff. I figured the groove was from the inside lip of the seal.

Well, I'm glad it's not not just me. I finally got through by clicking on advanced then at the bottom it gave me a choice to proceed anyway. Even though I have added the website to the "allow list" it still blocks it. Your comment gives me more patience to wait it out for an admin fix. Thanks.

Can definitely catch a fingernail in the groove. It only measured .002" less in diameter which is .001" deep per side. Not sure if micrometer is getting to the bottom of the groove all the way. I hope the speedi sleeve works.

Has anyone had a hard time getting to this site because of "Not secure" warning? I'm using Chrome. It was fine until last night.

Here's the picture of the groove in the yoke:

When I went to clean up the yoke I noticed the surface where the oil seal rides had a groove cut in it. I worked on it with crocus cloth but couldn't get rid of it so I ordered speedi sleeve for it. Never used one before, looks like you can use the same sized oil seal. Shipping goes slow this time of year, especially with all the snow (here in northwest. So now I wait....

Thanks for the replies and clearing that up about mine having the H233B without crush washers. What a relief. I notice it doesn't say in the instruction but do you recommend using a little RTV on the inner 1/2" of the yoke splines to keep oil from seeping through? That's pretty common on other vehicles.

Well, I thought I had the procedure down. Saw a couple videos and also had done it on my F150 before so I went for it. Now I'm ready to put the new pinion seal in and put the pinion flange nut on and finally found out that I was supposed to measure the torque required to remove the nut, but I didn't. So I'm wondering if I can set the preload to 4 to 8 inch pounds (with tires and drums off) by applying whatever torque that requires and call it good. Any ideas? BTW this is a 1991 PF with LSD.

Good to know........Now I have a better idea what I'm getting into next time I head to the wrecking yard.

The one it is going into is an AT also.

Thanks for all the replies. The key is not rusted in place. You can turn it like starting or off but just can't remove the key. It jiggles around slightly like a normal one. Sounds like the best idea is to remove the whole thing but I wanted to make sure the key worked on the doors before I bought it since the door lock cylinders are what I need most. Is there a trick to getting the lock cylinder out?

I stopped by a wrecking yard the other day and found a PF with a key in the ignition. I need the key, cylinder and door cylinders. It is an AT and there is no engine or battery in it. They key will not come out. There is no release button. I'm thinking it must be a sensor wired to it that has to be in park. I tried putting it in park, but with no battery and probably no cable, it would not open. Does anyone know if the key cylinder needs voltage to it (like 12v) to allow the key to be removed? Is there a way to fool it?

OK. Here is the update on this saga. I took it to a mechanic to help pin point our diagnosis. He did the a compression test with plugs out, then put plug into adjacent cylinder of questionable #6 and the pressure went up 10 pounds so we figured the head gasket was going. Replaced head gasket, it ran great for a day or so then ran crappy again. Then it hydro locked when I was trying to start it and I knew it was probably a leaky injector. #2 had fuel in it. I took fuel rail off but left it hooked up to fuel lines, disconnected coil, then removed distributor, grounded its case, then slowly turned the distributor cam gear and observed injectors as their short little burst occurred in firing order. About the 4th time through the sequence #2 stuck on like it was peeing, even after forwarding to other cylinders, even after turning key off until all pressure was bled off of line. So I knew injector #2 needed replacing. When I removed the fuel rail to disassemble I noticed the vacuum tube to the fuel pressure regulator had fuel in it (it was dry earlier in this article) so I ordered one of those up at the tune of about $75.00. Now about 700 miles later it is still running like a top. Drove it around the Olympic Peninsula camping and it ran great. All's well that ends well! PS: that injector I replaced tested fine for resistance. Must have had a bad spring inside or something.

I have considered the fuel pressure regulator and plan on testing it and the fuel pump as soon as my fuel pressure test gauge kit arrives. All I know right now is the regulator doesn't seem to have a leaky diaphragm since there is no gas leaking out the vacuum connection when I pull it loose. I replaced the fuel filter before I resorted to removing the fuel rail, so no I didn't clean the lines before the filter, although I was able to blow through the old filter easily, indicating that it couldn't have been to bad. #6 is the new injector, so that isn't the issue either. As far as fuel line blockage, the fuel comes into injector 5, 3, 1, 2, 4 then 6. Since 1, 3 and 5 are clean and normal, 2 is black, 4 and 6 are better, but not as clean as bank 1, the statement about it being higher pressure before the blockage and lower ahead of it, doesn't make sense in my mind. I'm glad to know others are brainstorming this though!

I checked the compression and the cylinders were all about 175 except #2 (the bad one which was HIGHER!!! I did it 3 times on that cylinder and got readings of 185 210 and 200. Since that is the cylinder that was fouled the worst, it isn't because of low compression. I have one of those testers with the flexible hose about a foot long with the threaded brass end with a rubber o ring. They are difficult to make sure you are turning them to equal torque when it is down 10" inside the manifold collector, so that could account for some deviation. Still waiting for my fuel pressure gauge to arrive for more thorough testing of the fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator.