DesertKyle

I couldn't tell you, I just called with the part numbers from this thread and the nice lady told me they have a kit now. FWIW I had to make a new channel for the set screws about a 0.25" in from one of the existing ones to get the rack rotated enough. Always fun taking an angle grinder to shiny new parts

Woodward has gotten so many requests they have a kit for 4" SFD pathfinders now, pn DK-1P. Ran me about $180 before shipping. The Honda steering extension from a 4th gen Accord is too long if you rotate the rack. Also the splined section from the Honda is larger than the Nissan's causing poor fitment, do not recommend.

I've ran most of my @!*%boxes on T4 over the years and they all had over 200k at the time and have never had an issue. This is just my experience though and everyone has a favorite oil. I also live in a very hot climate (southern Arizona). As the motor wears and clearances increase it should help if anything. As long as the motor is spec'd for it, I wouldn't try it in something calling for 0w20 or the like. What's supposed to be bad is switching to synthetic oil on a high mileage engine as it can free up excess sludge and junk and tends to leak more. Depending on how bad your leaks are it might not make a drastic difference but it just might make your motor happier Edit to add I'm at 223k, truck had 196k when I got it

My vq leaks considerably less and runs quieter with Rotella T4 15w40 for what that's worth. Valve cover gasket shouldn't affect oil pressure, the oil is just gravity draining back to the pan at that point. If its not smoking and your not constantly smelling burning oil I wouldn't worry about it on the trip. Always a good idea to have a fire extinguisher in the vehicle though! Lol

By driveline I mean driveshaft. If the shop has the equipment to balance driveshafts they should have no problem with it. It's been a couple years since I did the front, they may not have come with multiple snap rings, I might be getting it confused with the rear. I've never needed a different size though and I doubt you will either. A driveshaft shop would be able to figure it out either way

Pretty sure I'm running the 53218X from rockauto in front. The yokes are steel ?

I wouldn't recommend doing them yourself without a hydraulic press. I've done a few now and they all required a press. The different snap rings are used to center the u joint but mine always took the same size that was on there (usually the skinniest). Spicer u joints should include the 3 different size rings. Spicer is the only brand I'll use for u joints. On my rear drive shaft I used machinist calipers to center the u joints and it worked great with no vibrations (till I snapped my upper control arms and the yokes got bent ?). I have a lokka and manual hubs in front so didn't really worry about centering the u joints in front since the hubs are never locked over 25mph. It's pretty straight forward but getting them centered and not messing anything up makes it tedious and a bit of a pain in the ass. If you're not comfortable doing it yourself I would take it to a specialist driveline shop, the average mechanic will not have done many (if any) of these.

Been contemplating welding an open diff lately, but I still daily drive it too much lol. Not sure how much better this style of auto locker would be, my front's pretty clunky and doesn't always unlock when coasting. That being said I'm still pretty excited and will likely order one as soon as its available ?

I used large fender washers and a nylock nut on 3 of the 4 side bolts. The rear top one looked rather difficult to fish the hardware onto so I opted to rivnut it. Looks like I'll be replacing my hinge pins with bolts soon, One of them has started to rattle badly. Oh joy ?. I'll probably raise the tire mount another 4" (at least) then as I'm dragging it on the ground every time I wheel even with it raised 2" already. More lift will also help with this (coming soon). TBH l'm not really thrilled with this carrier. It doesn't feel as solid as I'd hoped, with just a little too much force opening or closing it the body buckles an alarming amount. Kinda wishing I'd waited till I build a bumper and made my own. The factory one does look good though and once I raise the spare some more it shouldn't be so bad.

You can open the gas cap when this happens to check for vacuum in the tank and see if it makes any difference in how it runs. How's your maf sensor? Mine does something similar when its dirty, was real bad with the k&n that came in the truck.

Had some fun with the truck this weekend!

Finally found a tire carrier last week after searching for a while. This thread made it a lot less daunting but man that was still one of the most tedious things I've done on the truck. I'd definitely recommend making a template for the latch hardware off the donor vehicle if possible, I didn't do this and was kicking myself for it. My bumper support is pretty mangled though and I'm missing all the plastic fasteners so it's not surprising it didn't make the best template lol. I welded rather than riveted the reinforcement piece. Feels real solid! Had to make some relief cuts on the underside and bend it ever so slightly to match the curve of the truck. Installed I'll be spacing out the mount and raising it 2" asap as I don't like how low the 33 sits, thanks hawairish for the idea (and for starting this whole thread!). And thanks to everyone else in this thread, couldn't have done it otherwise!

If you can't find a magnetic drain bolt I'd just add a Magnafine inline filter by the trans cooler and call it good.

+1 on timken and using a brass punch/rod to knock the races out. I used the old races and big sockets to hammer the new races in. Pretty cheap on rockauto, think I paid around $80 for all four.