Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by DesertKyle

  1. I've ran most of my @!*%boxes on T4 over the years and they all had over 200k at the time and have never had an issue. This is just my experience though and everyone has a favorite oil. I also live in a very hot climate (southern Arizona). As the motor wears and clearances increase it should help if anything. As long as the motor is spec'd for it, I wouldn't try it in something calling for 0w20 or the like. What's supposed to be bad is switching to synthetic oil on a high mileage engine as it can free up excess sludge and junk and tends to leak more. Depending on how bad your leaks are it might not make a drastic difference but it just might make your motor happier Edit to add I'm at 223k, truck had 196k when I got it
  2. My vq leaks considerably less and runs quieter with Rotella T4 15w40 for what that's worth. Valve cover gasket shouldn't affect oil pressure, the oil is just gravity draining back to the pan at that point. If its not smoking and your not constantly smelling burning oil I wouldn't worry about it on the trip. Always a good idea to have a fire extinguisher in the vehicle though! Lol
  3. By driveline I mean driveshaft. If the shop has the equipment to balance driveshafts they should have no problem with it. It's been a couple years since I did the front, they may not have come with multiple snap rings, I might be getting it confused with the rear. I've never needed a different size though and I doubt you will either. A driveshaft shop would be able to figure it out either way
  4. Pretty sure I'm running the 53218X from rockauto in front. The yokes are steel ?
  5. I wouldn't recommend doing them yourself without a hydraulic press. I've done a few now and they all required a press. The different snap rings are used to center the u joint but mine always took the same size that was on there (usually the skinniest). Spicer u joints should include the 3 different size rings. Spicer is the only brand I'll use for u joints. On my rear drive shaft I used machinist calipers to center the u joints and it worked great with no vibrations (till I snapped my upper control arms and the yokes got bent ?). I have a lokka and manual hubs in front so didn't really worry about centering the u joints in front since the hubs are never locked over 25mph. It's pretty straight forward but getting them centered and not messing anything up makes it tedious and a bit of a pain in the ass. If you're not comfortable doing it yourself I would take it to a specialist driveline shop, the average mechanic will not have done many (if any) of these.
  6. Been contemplating welding an open diff lately, but I still daily drive it too much lol. Not sure how much better this style of auto locker would be, my front's pretty clunky and doesn't always unlock when coasting. That being said I'm still pretty excited and will likely order one as soon as its available ?
  7. I used large fender washers and a nylock nut on 3 of the 4 side bolts. The rear top one looked rather difficult to fish the hardware onto so I opted to rivnut it. Looks like I'll be replacing my hinge pins with bolts soon, One of them has started to rattle badly. Oh joy ?. I'll probably raise the tire mount another 4" (at least) then as I'm dragging it on the ground every time I wheel even with it raised 2" already. More lift will also help with this (coming soon). TBH l'm not really thrilled with this carrier. It doesn't feel as solid as I'd hoped, with just a little too much force opening or closing it the body buckles an alarming amount. Kinda wishing I'd waited till I build a bumper and made my own. The factory one does look good though and once I raise the spare some more it shouldn't be so bad.
  8. You can open the gas cap when this happens to check for vacuum in the tank and see if it makes any difference in how it runs. How's your maf sensor? Mine does something similar when its dirty, was real bad with the k&n that came in the truck.
  9. Looks like I will not be around this weekend. Maybe in January? I've been wanting to plan a trip to Sedona too if that's any better for you
  10. That might work. Not sure what our Christmas plans are yet, but if I'm in town I'm down. Can let you know in the next few days ?
  11. Had some fun with the truck this weekend!
  12. Finally found a tire carrier last week after searching for a while. This thread made it a lot less daunting but man that was still one of the most tedious things I've done on the truck. I'd definitely recommend making a template for the latch hardware off the donor vehicle if possible, I didn't do this and was kicking myself for it. My bumper support is pretty mangled though and I'm missing all the plastic fasteners so it's not surprising it didn't make the best template lol. I welded rather than riveted the reinforcement piece. Feels real solid! Had to make some relief cuts on the underside and bend it ever so slightly to match the curve of the truck. Installed I'll be spacing out the mount and raising it 2" asap as I don't like how low the 33 sits, thanks hawairish for the idea (and for starting this whole thread!). And thanks to everyone else in this thread, couldn't have done it otherwise!
  13. If you can't find a magnetic drain bolt I'd just add a Magnafine inline filter by the trans cooler and call it good.
  14. Sounds good. Wanna shoot for early December? My schedule is pretty flexible, just let me know what works for you.
  15. Cool! Maybe we can get a couple more Phoenicians interested. If not I have some non-pathfinder friends who would be down.
  16. +1 on timken and using a brass punch/rod to knock the races out. I used the old races and big sockets to hammer the new races in. Pretty cheap on rockauto, think I paid around $80 for all four.
  17. No problem, hope it helps! I feel ya, between the maintenance and the mods it never ends lol. Keeps me busy though!
  18. Interesting, I didn't realize that was the case with the electronic t-cases. Sounds like you're on the right track then, whenever I've had bad control arm bushings I could feel it in the steering wheel. Good luck! ?
  19. Forgot to say if your hubs are disengaged the diff bushings shouldn't be causing any symptoms on the road. Bad control arm bushings will cause a vibration though. Have you checked your wheel bearings lately?
  20. Do you have any vibration/shimmy in your steering wheel while driving? When its clunking it has over 4000lbs of truck pushing on it, I doubt you'll be able to replicate it by hand unless it's totally shot. It'll also move significantly more while driving than you can move it by hand. I'd start by replacing the control arm as that's the only component with play in it that you've found. Also sounds like a likely culprit based on the conditions you've described, at least from my experience. Front diff/axle
  21. Any of you Arizona folk interested in coming down to Tucson to run The Gap? It's finally open after the fire this summer and it's gnarly as ever! Would be super cool wheel with some other pathfinders, I've yet to see another lifted one in town let alone on the trail. My schedule is wide open these days, let me know!
  22. Ran rug road to turkey creek this week, what an incredible trail and area!!
  23. I'd suggest jacking the front end up and using a pry bar to check the suspension and steering joints for movement, if you haven't done this already. If you can detect any play the part is probably bad as driving will put much more force on it than you can with a pry bar. Good idea to check the rack bushings, as others have said. I'm running Dorman bushings and have been happy with them. I tried some eBay poly bushings first but they weren't thick enough to hold the rack tightly. How are your diff bushings? I was getting a lot of clanking when mine were shot, but it was really only noticeable off-road. A loose fitting axle (as in need of a thicker snap ring) or a bad axle makes a hell of a racket too, you can certainly hear me coming down the trail lately ?
  24. Little late, but I have the same all top strap and while I haven't used it for any hard pulls it seems like a quality piece of kit. Nice material and construction.
  25. I'm chasing a similar issue on mine, no dtc's though. Pulled the whole evap system apart this weekend and couldn't find anything wrong other than a possibly sticky vacuum cut valve. I cleaned the valve some and it seemed to help a bit, gonna work on finding a new or better used one however. My theory is the valve is allowing excess pressure to build (and vacuum as I'm getting vapor lock at idle when it drops below a quarter tank). My charcoal canister is probably pretty used up at 211k but it still weighs under 4 lbs (3.8). I was going to swap it with one from a junkyard but learned that 03's have a much bigger vent line coming off the tank and into the can vs my 01. Makes me wonder why they changed it...

Welcome to NPORA Forums


Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.



  • Create New...