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Fr8Train

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Fr8Train last won the day on May 26

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About Fr8Train

  • Rank
    NPORA Newbie

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    NISSAN PATHFINDER R50 3.3L VG33E SOHC-PB 12v MPFI V6 125kW 4dr Wagon 4sp Auto 4WD
  • Place of Residence
    Australia
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    36-40
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    ST
  • Year
    1999

Profile Information

  • Location
    Tasmania
  • Country
    Australia

Recent Profile Visitors

126 profile views
  1. Yep in Nissan Australia's wisdom they equipped all the R50 with pretty much the same drive train hardware regardless of trim level all (if not most) R50 Pathfinders had the following: VG33 engines Automatic transmissions 4.6 LSD front and rear diffs Some have had the manual lever transfer case, but they were early ones '98 and earlier, after '99 they were all the "auto dial" selector. Makes part searching in the junkyards easier cause you are pretty safe with diff gearing etc... but we don't get much option to chop and change factory options. Plus we didn't get the factory rear tyre carrier either.
  2. Interesting, I just thought they were especially when they link the forums here in their description. To be honest I prefer the Aussie R50 owners page on there as opposed to the Yankee pages, just easier when everyone is speaking the same language/slang/suppliers around Pathfinders and to what is available locally. We never got the VQ35 engines or manual boxes in Australia, so the USA pages can muddy the waters on information sometimes, and you do see some stuff o the FB NPORA group that makes you question who vetted the post/info etc... I will definitely keep that in mind with anything I see on there now.
  3. So the FB group isn't affiliated to the forum?
  4. Hoss was popping and crunching when I got her, check my build post to see what I found when I pulled my struts apart, chances are it your strut bearing, but worst case is you could have what I found. Go have a look at my build thread HERE might help you understand your issue.
  5. Down here in Tassie we call it the "Covid Tax" old $2-$4k Landcruisers and Patrols down here now go for anywhere between $8k to $16k, it is stupid. Even caravans, and in particular off road campers are going through the roof too, we got ours delivered leading into covid for mid $20k and they are now selling $40-$50k second hand because the waiting times on new ones are up to and over 18 months. All because everyone can't go on interstate/international holidays any more they are buying up all the 4x4's ad campers so they can see their home state, and camp etc... I'm calling it, there will be a glut of 4x4's and off road campers on the market in the next 18-36 months, back at realistic if not rock bottom prices.
  6. Opinions are like a**holes, everyone has one. This guy from what I can gather is he is trying the serious/satirical shtick in the vain of the likes of AvE, not too serious but serious enough to get a bee in the Pathfinder communities bonnet. In my opinion (a**hole ) I reckon Tyler's latest video sums it all up pretty well, and presents all our defenses and Mr Regular's inaccuracies, I don't think we could ask much more than that with Tyler stepping up defending our community, in a great facts based video. My opinion on coke vs pepsi argument, well I don't think you can go wrong with any of the Japanese mid-range/sized 4x4 wagons: Pathfinder/xterra, 4Runner/Surf, Challenger, Rocky/Feroza, Amigo/Fronterra and so on... the whole Japanese range of gear has been built to a standard of "make it the best we can" and the Japanese excel at that with the aforementioned vehicles all being relatively bullet proof (due to detuned engines with strong drive train formula), economical to purchase, and parts still being readily available for most models. All have their quirks and known issues, but it is just that, they are "known" issues, with the advent of the interwebs we can do a quick search of what may have grabbed our attention on marketplace and you can read every person who has been arsed to record their experiences on [insert model] and build an opinion on weather it is worth investing in or steering clear of, basically what I done when i seen Hoss on the Stalkbook Marketplace. Just because some YouTuber called our cars "boring" doesn't really bother me, I know what I got and I like it, and that is all that matters to me. Quick side note: "TFL Classics" on YouTube have been showing the Pathfinders some love (albeit a WD21) on their channel, and hopefully we could see them move into a R50 if they keep following their current trend of loving the Nissan branded gear at the moment Thanks for listening to my TED talk
  7. Just mildew/mould, a good polish will sort that.
  8. Nothing to remove, just undo battery leads, undo the two starter bolts, once loose from bell housing barrel roll starter motor 180 degrees (so solenoid goes from 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock) then just lower starter down next to chassis rail and feed/slide it along chassis rail to rear of car, and down and out between chassis and exhaust. Just reverse process for reinstall.
  9. Search ebay/Amazon for "Solenoid Repair Kit" you may be able to find one that suits, or just get a new starter. You could always get one from a wrecking yard, and give it a good cleanup/service and get a few good years out of it. I ordered a new starter when mine was playing up, in the meantime I found a video showing a starter tear down and clean, mine was a mess inside and cleaned up well and then worked a treat, I still kept the new one just in case the cleaned up one does die as a back up.
  10. I have read with colder (snowing) climates people run the 5w-30, but I have also read it pays to go to heavier oils as you get km's/miles on the donk. I always go the heavier weight oils on my engines especially when they have some high k's on them. I am in Tasmania we get sub 0deg C mornings here regularly in our winter and with the thicker oils I just let the car warm up a bit longer before hitting the road, no big deal 3-5min of the car sitting in the driveway while I fix myself a coffee. The noise you are hearing is more than likely just lifter noise/rattle, nothing to be worried about, a bit more info like mileage on your pathy could help, but I reckon she is just lifter noise normal wear and tear. The stabiliser you added is a good call, and will effectively just give you a heavier grade oil. Just get a 10w-30 next service and go from there, this is all just experience you will gain as you get older and keep playing with cars. I don't think you need to drop the pan, I reckon you are just opening a can of worms, if it ain't broke don't mess with it. As for the oil pressures on the chinesium gauge, did you check gauge accuracy with a known pressure source like compressed air? If not those cheap gauges can be all over the place with their calibration. My only aftermarket gauges I plan on running will be some temp guages for the transmission and engine, and that is only so I can monitor my temps while towing our camper trailer. Hope this helps set your mind at ease kid, don't overthink things, keep it simple stupid
  11. The only movement at 12 and 6 o'clock is pointing to mounting issue for me, if it were a wheel bearing you would have wobble all the way around the clock. Best way to check the ball joints (in my experience) is: jack her up, and put on stands. Take wheel off Remove hub (freewheeling or factory lock hub) Remove CV circlip Undo and remove the 2x strut bolts that attach the hub to the strut base Slip CV drive shaft out of hub Now once that is done only the outer tie rod and ball joint are the only things attaching the hub to the vehicle, wobble and wriggle hub around, you will pretty soon know if the ball joint is buggered, there will be excessive play and slop. If it is tight and no lateral or medial movement or slop, it is all good. You may be able to jack it up and wobble/pry around the ball joint with weight off the strut assy and lower control arm, but the tension from the strut assy may still hold pressure against the ball joint. Lower control arm bushes could also be culprit, check those too. Like I said this is just from my experience and how I would tackle the job, and is how I checked my ball joints while changing my struts and CV's. Hope this helps.
  12. Out with the old, in with the new... Front sway bar bushes started banging during my shakedown run, simple 8 bolt job is now turning into a 2 night ordeal, found two stripped bolts, and suspect threads, getting a tap from work, and a couple of new bolts fix it properly. Ahh the fun of cars and how the simplest job is one broken bolt away from a nightmare.
  13. 1st shakedown trip done and dusted, the only thing that needs work on is my front sway bar mounts, by the end of the day they were pretty noisy. Any ways here is some pictures of Saturday arvo wheelin' in the wilds of Tassie. I got a few pics, but I will keep it to pictures including the Pathy to stick to the "random pictures of your R50" mantra, no one wants to see a heap of pictures of the Tassie bush. The crew for the day, mixed bunch, 4, 6, and 8 cylinders all represented The day's location Borradaile Plains Hut. Hut was originally a cattle grazers and snarer's hut, the original hut burnt down in the 1950's, but was rebuilt soon after. It is privately owned, but visitors are accepted as long as the site and buildings are respected. Pathfinder picnic table: Pathfinder sunset:
  14. Went to a local tradeshow yesterday and picked the brains of some battery gurus, they said the AGM will be fine, and that overcharging with a vehicle alternator is difficult as most pre-smart alternators don't actually fully charge an AGM battery only producing enough volts to actually charge it to some 90-95%. They said this "issue" actually doesn't hurt the battery and you will have a pretty robust auxillary battery system with the gear I am using. So I feel a lot better about that Time to get her wired up now...
  15. Can you access the position sensor? or the wires at least? From my experience with sunroof's is that the position sensor is more than likely a micro switch that kills power to the drive motors to prevent over running and damage to the hard ware, one for opening and one for closing. Now I haven't looked at the Sunroof wiring for the Pathfinder (as mine doesn't have one) but you may be able to locate the sensor wires and intercept the signal and fudge the feed back by breaking/contacting the wires to get it to work. Typing this out has me thinking, if one sensor is activated, the motor can only turn on the reverse direction, but for the roof not to go either direction, I find it hard to believe that both sensors would fail at the same time, I would be looking for a cable plug that you may have inadvertently disturbed (unplugged) and I would be checking any relays and fuses related to the sunroof, as it has motors involved I would think there would be a relay under the bonnet looking after it, and if that has failed well you have lost all power. Hopefully this helps and gives you a few things to look at.

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