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Fr8Train

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Everything posted by Fr8Train

  1. Down here in Tassie we call it the "Covid Tax" old $2-$4k Landcruisers and Patrols down here now go for anywhere between $8k to $16k, it is stupid. Even caravans, and in particular off road campers are going through the roof too, we got ours delivered leading into covid for mid $20k and they are now selling $40-$50k second hand because the waiting times on new ones are up to and over 18 months. All because everyone can't go on interstate/international holidays any more they are buying up all the 4x4's ad campers so they can see their home state, and camp etc... I'm calling it, there will be a glut of 4x4's and off road campers on the market in the next 18-36 months, back at realistic if not rock bottom prices.
  2. Opinions are like a**holes, everyone has one. This guy from what I can gather is he is trying the serious/satirical shtick in the vain of the likes of AvE, not too serious but serious enough to get a bee in the Pathfinder communities bonnet. In my opinion (a**hole ?) I reckon Tyler's latest video sums it all up pretty well, and presents all our defenses and Mr Regular's inaccuracies, I don't think we could ask much more than that with Tyler stepping up defending our community, in a great facts based video. My opinion on coke vs pepsi argument, well I don't think you can go wrong with any of the Japanese mid-range/sized 4x4 wagons: Pathfinder/xterra, 4Runner/Surf, Challenger, Rocky/Feroza, Amigo/Fronterra and so on... the whole Japanese range of gear has been built to a standard of "make it the best we can" and the Japanese excel at that with the aforementioned vehicles all being relatively bullet proof (due to detuned engines with strong drive train formula), economical to purchase, and parts still being readily available for most models. All have their quirks and known issues, but it is just that, they are "known" issues, with the advent of the interwebs we can do a quick search of what may have grabbed our attention on marketplace and you can read every person who has been arsed to record their experiences on [insert model] and build an opinion on weather it is worth investing in or steering clear of, basically what I done when i seen Hoss on the Stalkbook Marketplace. Just because some YouTuber called our cars "boring" doesn't really bother me, I know what I got and I like it, and that is all that matters to me. Quick side note: "TFL Classics" on YouTube have been showing the Pathfinders some love (albeit a WD21) on their channel, and hopefully we could see them move into a R50 if they keep following their current trend of loving the Nissan branded gear at the moment ? Thanks for listening to my TED talk ?
  3. Nothing to remove, just undo battery leads, undo the two starter bolts, once loose from bell housing barrel roll starter motor 180 degrees (so solenoid goes from 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock) then just lower starter down next to chassis rail and feed/slide it along chassis rail to rear of car, and down and out between chassis and exhaust. Just reverse process for reinstall.
  4. Search ebay/Amazon for "Solenoid Repair Kit" you may be able to find one that suits, or just get a new starter. You could always get one from a wrecking yard, and give it a good cleanup/service and get a few good years out of it. I ordered a new starter when mine was playing up, in the meantime I found a video showing a starter tear down and clean, mine was a mess inside and cleaned up well and then worked a treat, I still kept the new one just in case the cleaned up one does die as a back up.
  5. I have read with colder (snowing) climates people run the 5w-30, but I have also read it pays to go to heavier oils as you get km's/miles on the donk. I always go the heavier weight oils on my engines especially when they have some high k's on them. I am in Tasmania we get sub 0deg C mornings here regularly in our winter and with the thicker oils I just let the car warm up a bit longer before hitting the road, no big deal 3-5min of the car sitting in the driveway while I fix myself a coffee. The noise you are hearing is more than likely just lifter noise/rattle, nothing to be worried about, a bit more info like mileage on your pathy could help, but I reckon she is just lifter noise normal wear and tear. The stabiliser you added is a good call, and will effectively just give you a heavier grade oil. Just get a 10w-30 next service and go from there, this is all just experience you will gain as you get older and keep playing with cars. I don't think you need to drop the pan, I reckon you are just opening a can of worms, if it ain't broke don't mess with it. As for the oil pressures on the chinesium gauge, did you check gauge accuracy with a known pressure source like compressed air? If not those cheap gauges can be all over the place with their calibration. My only aftermarket gauges I plan on running will be some temp guages for the transmission and engine, and that is only so I can monitor my temps while towing our camper trailer. Hope this helps set your mind at ease kid, don't overthink things, keep it simple stupid ?
  6. The only movement at 12 and 6 o'clock is pointing to mounting issue for me, if it were a wheel bearing you would have wobble all the way around the clock. Best way to check the ball joints (in my experience) is: jack her up, and put on stands. Take wheel off Remove hub (freewheeling or factory lock hub) Remove CV circlip Undo and remove the 2x strut bolts that attach the hub to the strut base Slip CV drive shaft out of hub Now once that is done only the outer tie rod and ball joint are the only things attaching the hub to the vehicle, wobble and wriggle hub around, you will pretty soon know if the ball joint is buggered, there will be excessive play and slop. If it is tight and no lateral or medial movement or slop, it is all good. You may be able to jack it up and wobble/pry around the ball joint with weight off the strut assy and lower control arm, but the tension from the strut assy may still hold pressure against the ball joint. Lower control arm bushes could also be culprit, check those too. Like I said this is just from my experience and how I would tackle the job, and is how I checked my ball joints while changing my struts and CV's. Hope this helps.
  7. Out with the old, in with the new... Front sway bar bushes started banging during my shakedown run, simple 8 bolt job is now turning into a 2 night ordeal, found two stripped bolts, and suspect threads, getting a tap from work, and a couple of new bolts fix it properly. Ahh the fun of cars and how the simplest job is one broken bolt away from a nightmare.
  8. 1st shakedown trip done and dusted, the only thing that needs work on is my front sway bar mounts, by the end of the day they were pretty noisy. Any ways here is some pictures of Saturday arvo wheelin' in the wilds of Tassie. I got a few pics, but I will keep it to pictures including the Pathy to stick to the "random pictures of your R50" mantra, no one wants to see a heap of pictures of the Tassie bush. The crew for the day, mixed bunch, 4, 6, and 8 cylinders all represented ? The day's location Borradaile Plains Hut. Hut was originally a cattle grazers and snarer's hut, the original hut burnt down in the 1950's, but was rebuilt soon after. It is privately owned, but visitors are accepted as long as the site and buildings are respected. Pathfinder picnic table: Pathfinder sunset:
  9. Went to a local tradeshow yesterday and picked the brains of some battery gurus, they said the AGM will be fine, and that overcharging with a vehicle alternator is difficult as most pre-smart alternators don't actually fully charge an AGM battery only producing enough volts to actually charge it to some 90-95%. They said this "issue" actually doesn't hurt the battery and you will have a pretty robust auxillary battery system with the gear I am using. So I feel a lot better about that ? Time to get her wired up now...
  10. Can you access the position sensor? or the wires at least? From my experience with sunroof's is that the position sensor is more than likely a micro switch that kills power to the drive motors to prevent over running and damage to the hard ware, one for opening and one for closing. Now I haven't looked at the Sunroof wiring for the Pathfinder (as mine doesn't have one) but you may be able to locate the sensor wires and intercept the signal and fudge the feed back by breaking/contacting the wires to get it to work. Typing this out has me thinking, if one sensor is activated, the motor can only turn on the reverse direction, but for the roof not to go either direction, I find it hard to believe that both sensors would fail at the same time, I would be looking for a cable plug that you may have inadvertently disturbed (unplugged) and I would be checking any relays and fuses related to the sunroof, as it has motors involved I would think there would be a relay under the bonnet looking after it, and if that has failed well you have lost all power. Hopefully this helps and gives you a few things to look at.
  11. I am in several groups and can't remember which one exactly, search up Pathfinder R50 on Facebook and go to the groups tab you find plenty to join, I had a quick search around in some of the groups and there are several posts in regards to the wind deflectors, and xterra units etc... Good luck with your search.
  12. This popped up on one of the Facebook groups several weeks ago, apparently you can modify the xterra one to fit, and someone also modded a Jeep one to fit. But I dare say you can only make one fit, as there isn't any R50 units manufactured by anyone.
  13. Like I said, it is what I have been reading, and like all research on the interwebs it takes some time trawling through the BS and factual information. Like I said I will just be running the old start battery while work out any kinks etc... and be confident I am not going to ruin a new AGM battery. Off the shelf unit, one of our camping stores had them on sale cheaper than I could get all the components and make one for. No Hoss isn't a 4runner ?
  14. I'm just using my old starting battery, and getting a new bigger capacity starting battery, I have an 80ah AGM but I am reading they don't like being charged on alternators, so I am not sure if I will use that yet, I figured using the old starter battery I can afford for it to be abused a bit while I do more research on hooking up an AGM in my system.
  15. Started on the dual battery set up, went with a battery box arrangement for universal and flexible operation. The battery will be responsible for fridge duties, auxiliary lighting, and device charging. I got a complete kit that comes with VSR for automatic charging and isolation from main starting battery, but has the bonus of a relay over ride so I can jump start off the secondary battery if need be.
  16. Yeah they are a mate of mine's, an old hot rodder around here used to make them, they are pretty sought after around here since he passed, I was lucky enough to get to use them for the Blues Festival where this pic was taken.
  17. Yeah my kids love them, they love having their own space camping. We originally had a soft floor camper trailer, that the kids shared with us, they eventually wanted and got swags, and then my wife and I were asking why are we still spending an hour to set up/pack up such a large camper??? So that was when we started looking at getting ourselves something a little "glamping" and we worked our way up to our hybrid offroad caravan, hence the reason for Hoss. And before you yankees ask, this is a soft floor camper:
  18. First day trip adventure as a family after our Anzac day commitments ? Lunch break: Found a waterfall: Have tee'd up with some of my mates a day trip and some entry level wheeling to start shaking Hoss down and get here ready for some real trails, watch this space ?
  19. Just so you can see what a swag is ? This is our regular camp set up. the boss and I in the camper trailer, and the kids in their swags. The swags are basically heavy duty canvas dome tents with built in mattress and can be rolled up with all bedding and pillows ready to go
  20. I am very conscious of any weight put on the rack, the rack is predominately there as a way to carry the kids swags lucky to be 20-30kg max, the green one (in the picture with the van hooked up) is a Kings Big Daddy and weighs around 16kg and the other swag is a single which is lighter again. There is no lateral movement on the mounts, they are seated firmly on the mount points in the channel, the box section is 20mm x 50mm (3/4"x2" for you yanks ) and it fits and seats nicely on the mount points. These box section mounts have the same if not more contact on the channel as factory mounts, and they are bolted using the factory hardware, I have evry faith in them. The angle bracket resting in the channel is a very tight fit and I have not had any vibration evident as yet. As for wearing through the paint, I am not too concerned as she is a bush basher, and I may be Raptor lining the whole rig yet, and from what experience I have with the product it will withstand and protect the panel/paint from that sort of wear. Plus the way the 6 points are mounted to the cage give added rigidity. I will keep an eye on it, either way. Thanks for the questions and feed back
  21. The Aluminium box section/RHS is drilled to and bolted to the factory mount holes using the factory supplied flared M6 nuts, with M6 stainless bolts. The angles cut on the end of the box section allow the bolts to accessed. I placed brick layers gap waterproof rubber foam under the box section to seal the box section to the roof rack mount/cup. Then I made the angle brackets that sit in the roof channel and rest on the roof, secured laterally via M6 stainless bolt and M6 steel rivnut. This means the bolt is only holding the bracket in place, and does not need to support the weight on the rack, the roof does. Hope this makes sense? If you want any more info just yell out.
  22. When I got mine I spent an afternoon degreasing and pressure cleaning the engine, steering rack, transmission, CV's, and engine bay, gives you a good base line to chase leaks as once everything is clean, it is easier to see where the leaks are coming from, one thing I noted was after a few drives I did have oil work out of areas I didn't quite get with the pressure washer. Each time I found some leaking down I cleaned it again (spray can degreaser and rag) and traced where it might be coming from and checked it again after the next drive. After a bit of investigationing I discovered the right hand valve cover was loose and leaking. Tightened up and and has taken the leak up for now, but I now know to keep an eye on it. A lot of my gunk on my engine was from split CV boots, and a weeping power steering. Cleaned up and monitor, have added stop leak power steering fluid, and replaced CV's. Long story short clean everything within an inch of it's life and it will make tracing leaks much easier, and once it's clean it's easier to keep clean. Plus it makes working on the engine so much nicer when you aren't covered with muck from fingers to elbows. Just my 2c worth
  23. Should be pretty straight forward, re-use the seat runners that fix to the pathfinder floor, and adapt the new new seats to those is the easiest way I have found in the past. Generally you can run two flat bars between the factory runners (bolt them to the floor minus the seats to get them in the right spot and get your measurements for the bar) and then drill them to fit the new seat mount points. You might luck out and have new seats with the same pickup points and just bolt the Pathfinder runners up to the new seat with no adapter plates needed. Back 20 years ago when my mates and I got into cars we used to go to the local wreckers and find cool/nicer seats than our S#!t heaps had and swap them over. Anything is possible with some time and a few beers. Points to keep in mind that caught us out a couple of times, the height/thickness of the seat bases, I had a Subaru Brumby/Brat and fitted Toyota seats in it and they were heaps lower than the Subaru seats, this wasn't an issue for me as I am tall, but a buddy tried to use the Subaru seats in his hatch back and his head was hitting the roof.
  24. Regardless of what you read, how do expect to diagnose an issue with a transmission without making checks? If your filter is clogged you are better off changing it than leaving in there making more damage and issues. It is always best practice to change your filter with your fluid, get a tranny service kit it will come with filter and pan gasket, the advantage is you have put some fresh fluid in so that will have acted as a flush of sorts, and when you drop it and refill with fresh fluid you will have replaced most of your old oil as it takes a couple of changes to get all your fresh fluid through.

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