Strato_54

i get the basic clamps with the 2 bolts on the side and the sandwich plate. These ones here are what i'm talking about which are very easy to use and install. I use them on my trailers all the time when, my personal and the ones we build for customers that require a deep cycle.

next time i get up to my shop this week ill try pulling it off and playing with it. if thats not the problem then what would it be? just a hose leak then? I think its a sort of vapour because you put in the special liquid and then it sprays that. but it doesnt feel wet at all so its some sort of dry vapor i think. ill look it up and see what comes up.

when i pop the fuel cap it does release pressure when i open it if that helps any. i forgot to mention that also. ill look under when its not raining but for the most part its only showing up as a check engine light thats really annoying. EDIT: technically I do have a smoke machine..... one of those Halloween ones if that would work lmao

I keep getting a check engine light for a P0440 and P0446. I have checked gas cap and it appears to be fine. The car has only been legally on the road for about a month and a bit and has since then starting doing this. I have checked off the valve next to the throttle body that there aren't major cracks but not sure what else to check. the car runs perfectly fine no idle stumble no loss of power the light just comes on i clear it and then it stays off for about a week on average. Not sure where to go from here and hoping its something cheap and easy i can fix myself.

I love mine. its a similar spec setup to yours same colour, 4x4 and the 5 speed i just love it so much. i love all the pathfinders but this style with the red just speaks out to me. Love your rig hope to see more of it

I used a gates kit on my 97 and am very happy with it so far. the tensioner felt very nice water pump was great also. i do recommend doing the cam seals too and like said above the thermostat. when i pulled off the rear cover and the cam gears my passenger side had a massive oil leak that i didnt even know about until i got in there. so i recommend you do those too for a few bucks its worth it.

i pulled it apart and got to the module. i checked over all the solder points and they look like new so i didnt bother. all the resistors on the inside looked alright too so i just cleaned off the screw contact points a little bit and now im just gonna wait and see. if it does it again ill do the solder points regardless next time if it ever does do it again. i did not see anything loose either so maybe jarring it enough to make better contact with the screws helped. time will tell.

i might do that on friday. but the thing is i have my drivers test on monday and i cant work on it until friday because of school and what not so i dont want to tear into it a few days before and then have it not work at all. i might just do that because im probably over thinking it since ive never taken this apart before. would that also give me the code p0500 then if that was the issue and theres a bad joint somewhere? EDIT: just watched a video on how to take it apart so ill just try it tomorrow or something and hope that works out

Well it happened again, and it gets a little weird. It stopped working the other day so I tried the same fix as the first time and that worked. Then it happened again. I tapped in the plastic and it spring to life. But then I got a p0500 code and the dash wasn’t working. I cleared the code and punched it again and then it sprung back up to working. Why?

I work with aluminum on a regular since i work in a fab shop, and when you weld aluminum it burns and turns black around the welds. we use lots of rubbing alcohol to polish after welding and grinding but to also prep when welding. since theres a global pandemic and all rubbing alcohol is either sold out or extremely over priced we like to use acetone. it works fairly nice after welding and eats at all the dirt pretty quick. just make sure that its a bare piece with no paint or markings that arent engraved. theres probably some scientific thing about using both on aluminum but its just what we have found works the best and have yet to see any side affects. another product we use is actually from the dollar store. its an "as seen on tv" labeled product called "La's totally awesome cleaner" and works really nice on aluminum and anything that needs a degrease. another would be vinegar, but ive heard that it can eat at damage aluminum if left for long periods of time with out rinsing.

had this problem in my armada. the glass handle would work and the hatch handle would not. there is a little cable on the inside that goes to the handle mechanism that had slipped out of its hook. not 100% sure if the pathfinder is the same but it probably will be. and you can get to the latch from inside of the car you just have to crawl in and pull off the plastic panel. the steps are listed above by R50JR.

still think its absolutely hilarious how its been this long and its been in changed. BUT i ordered all the parts on rock auto and will be here Thursday including a new rad and fan since both have decided to kick the can. to anyone who is putting off their timing belt do not do it it is bad and can end horrific. im just lazy and didnt have the funds

oh man do i ever! at least it gives me something to do lmao

No problem! I’ve tried looking for these online before and couldn’t find any that would fit this so I said screw it I’ll just make my own. I’m very happy I did.

Never had a WD21 or have enough knowledge on them so though I’d just stick it here. If they fit the wd21 then that’s pretty good to know

Found the fix. I pulled it apart again today unplugged the plugs and checked all the pins. All looked good plugged back in. Still didn’t fix it. I then tried tightening the screws that make contact with the traces for the speedo and I was able to get a good half turn out of all 4 around it. I also did the screws around the tach and fixed the problem. The contact points did look a little spotty where it made contact with air as copper would.

yeah after i posted my last reply i remembered the bluedriver OBD reader on amazon. i remember downloading the app and playing with it and it seemed like it read a lot of data so maybe ill buy that since this past year it seems all of the vehicles my family owns wants to no longer work. armada has huge exhaust leaks through the whole system and a flashing airbag light. my dads 6.0 blew a HG in January in my school parking lot (typical 6.0 fashion but it only has 137 km so pretty early lmao) and that didnt want to run because it took out the HPOP and all the sensors along with it. tomorrow when i get up to my shop ill take it apart again and ill check out all of the pins. i did check on friday when i reseated the plugs that there were no wires hanging out of the plastic harness itself but ill check again and ill look closer then i did the first time. hopfully its something small as i still need to get it inspected for the out of province inspection which should be happening here soon when i get a new rad and windshield.

Hello people of NPORA! Recently I've gotten into 3D CAD and wanted to make something practical and useful. I decided to make a few switch pieces that fit my 97 switch spaces but didn't want to cut the original black covers. So i 3D printed a few with the switch size i needed already cut and they work amazing! But i thought that some of you on here, or people finding this in the future might want to either spice up their dash with some colour, or just needed some replacements. Below I've listed a few images of what mine look like and the settings for the 3D print along with the STL files. They are not built to the exact of the originals but are close enough. Even though you can probably find these for a few bucks at a JY or on eBay, its still something fun to do if you have the time, materials and access to a printer. Enjoy! Pictures here: https://imgur.com/a/R9oA6th STL Download link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4564996 Print settings: Printer: FT-5 R1 Resolution: .2 Infill: 30% Supports: No Speed: 50 Flow: 100 Rafts: Doesn't matter

all i have is an obd2 code reader and thats about it. i wanna try and find one thats a bit on the cheaper side that can read data but who knows. i also dont have access to another cluster since no one else i know local has an R50 and the really good junk yard down the street from my shop recently closed so i cant go there either. ill try looking at the connections closer and see what that looks like. if i go into the cluster to check that out what do i look for? just anything that could be fried basically?

i read somewhere that a good way to test the sensor is that if cruise control doesnt take over then its a bad sensor? which would make sense if true and i might try that tomorrow just to narrow it down for peace of mind. if it were the speedo itself what would be a good plan of attack to check that? all i did then i took it apart was pulled the 3 main plugs pulled the dash changed the bulbs plugged it in made sure they worked and put it together. its was a half hour later i noticed it was not working. like i said i did try to reseat the plugs and didnt work. maybe try that again idk. is there a special way to check wiring and or the speedo in the cluster?

as much as i would love to throw parts at it im pretty sure its not that. it was working before i pulled the dash if i remember correctly. so maybe its something else. is there a fuse for the dash somewhere maybe? i guess i should be asking what should i look at first to make sure i didnt fry something

Today I made the discovery that the speedo and odo are not working. Was just moving the pathy out of the shop and around the yard and realized at 3k rpm I had no speedo. After doing circles in the yard the ODO and trip won’t work either. All of the other gauges work. I tried reading the codes and besides a bank 1 knock sensor there’s no VSS codes. I did pull apart my dash to finish a few LED lights so I did have the cluster out and unplugged. I tried unplugging and reseating the plugs with no avail. Any ideas?

i might just end up doing that also. i mean i dont smoke but it would just finish the rest of the car having all interior LED

welp thats a negative on the wiper switch getting an LED for today. took it apart and the bulb is insanely tiny. i also could not get the ash tray light out i think its soldered in there and the cigarette lighter light i did change but it wouldn't click back in because the LED was too tall. so i just glued it in and called it a day. i was finally also able to get the HVAC. i guess the first time i just didn't try hard enough but it does take some force to get it to move. Dash looks great now and i am very pleased

ive looked up pictures of the switch and it looks like a few clips on the side and the switch cover and rocker comes off but im not sure if it uses the same bulb as the rest of my dash. when i do pull it apart ill make sure to put it back here for anyone else reading