Strato_54

Yeah I've heard of a few mechanics try and pull stuff like that. Its why I'm not afraid to work on my own cars and learn on my own. like the 6.0, my dad and I did at our shop and was the first time either of us had torn apart a motor that far ever, and we got it running and today runs like a beast. I have heard of something like that, but since we never had coolant inside the oil, it was mostly the other way around we never bothered and just flushed it with another oil change after a few months anyways. I know there is a coolant system flush you can buy but we tried cleaning it out as best as we could and it just wouldn't come off with anything, no over heating or clogging problems as of now a year+ later so should be fine I think? only time will tell lmao. Honestly I would flush the oil, maybe the coolant as well, and just run it for a while. let it get through a good few heat cycles and check on it periodically. If nothing bad shows up then the mechanic might be feeding you garbage, but having a solid baseline like knowing you have fresh oil and fresh coolant is a good place to start if its just now getting out of storage, like mine was.

I'm no licensed mechanic, but what I can say in terms of the gunk on the inside of the gas cap is it may not be from a head gasket. My 08 Armada has it really bad, where the gas cap and filler tube will be filled with the foamy gunk but does not have a head gasket problem, its just from the moisture in the crank case. I have had a vehicle blow a HG (my 6.0 lol) and the cap trick didn't indicate a HG failure, it was actually oil in the coolant reservoir that was one of the tell tales. I have had the same gunk on the top part of my dip stick on my 97 pathy and sometimes inside the cap. Doesn't happen that often but I noticed it happen most on colder, moist days. When my 6.0 blew, it ate all of the oil, pressurized the degas bottle (fords name for the reservoir) to an extreme pressure, while also turning the once green coolant to a really thick rainbow tint brown sludge. Most people say that the main thing to tell if you have a HG failure is from the exhaust which I had none of, or at least no more then what a cold diesel in a Canadian winter would put out. Though not false information, it did not indicate MY HG as much as it probably should've. From my experience, checking for excessive pressure in the coolant system was what gave me an idea of what was happening, as well as a very underpowered drive home from school. Again, I am no professional, I'm just giving my input on my experience with a HG failure, and having a similar gunk in a non blown motor.

My B2S2 sensor went out about a month ago and getting out wasn't too hard. The bolts for the heat shield were completely gone and if I removed them then there was no putting them back. So all I did was cut the little heat shield tab that comes off and covers the sensor. The second hard part was removed the seized sensor. With a little heat and some force it came out pretty easy. if you do have to heat up the exhaust to get it out, make sure you're heating the outside threads and not the threads of the sensor itself. Most people say use an Oxy torch, but I was too lazy to drag out my hoses so i just used small propane torch and it worked great. took me about an hour and a bit, but most of the time was waiting for the cat to cool off before I touched it.

I did a little research on the universal ones and it looks like i can just heat it with a heat gun and mold it to fit my original pillar. i guess this is the only option then if i wanted to install one.

Actually i just found this Ebay link , would this just be a double side tape mount then? Sorry if this seems stupid i just don't know how these mount

I recently just bought an oil pressure gauge, but I want to also get an oil temp gauge too. In the summer it gets pretty smoking hot here and living in the mountains, so I would like to monitor my temps pretty closely. I've tried looking for threads on what works for what, but there is nothing that I'm looking for. I've come across the "universal" styles but they all cant be the same fit. Where can I get a 2 or 3 gauge pillar mount for my black interior 97 that doesn't block the tweeter? And if possible one that is made for the R50 with all the clips in place where they should be. If I have to do some work that's fine, ill just do what ever is needed to make it fit. But if these universal ones will work, how do I go about making it fit properly and not look like a hack job? Ones preferably in Canada or on a site that ships to Canada would be great.

Looks better then the current gen, but its still a cross over. probably would've been a lot cooler of it was RWD but sadly its not. Although that 9 speed does make me a bit happier to see instead of the disgusting CVT. They did get my excitement up when they started reposting some r50 builds on Instagram, but now I'm not as excited about the pathfinder. That's not to say I'm upset about the new Frontier. That body style has been the same since what, 2004? To see it actually look like a modern truck really makes me happy. Can't wait to see one in person or on some YouTube channels.

To my knowledge, if you have 2 12V batteries both rated for 100ah and you put them in parallels, that would then equate to 200ah at 12V. in many RV's that's how the batteries are setup, not too sure on the use case for having 6 volts in series though. when I build one of our teardrops for someone and they want 2 batteries this is how we wire them. but same goes for deep cycles in terms of over charging them. many modern Travel Trailers use a DC to DC charge controller to charge the Deep Cycle batteries. although you can run a 12V power wire right from the starter battery to the trailer, it will end up over charging the battery thus boiling off the internals rendering it useless. In my personal trailer I don't bother with a controller, I just run a smart isolator and call it there so I don't have to worry about my starter battery draining over night to my faulty deep cycle (happened too many times). I'm up in BC and have only had a set of batteries go once in my 6.0, but then again those batteries came from Calgary before I moved if I remember correctly. Even too I've had batteries sitting for weeks on end with out them going dead. maybe about a volt but have yet to pick one up completely flat strange enough. even after being used a bit.

I mean, it could be something seizing still, but maybe its something with the brake boost. maybe something in the booster isn't right? I cant really think of anything other than a caliper seizing up. I'm no professional so maybe someone can chime in on how to check the booster and master cylinder parts, but knowing how they work and that it uses intake vacuum, that's what I think of off the bat.

only time ive ever had a negative experience with another driver was i was merging on to the high way in my work truck (05 f250 powerstroke crew cab long bed with welder and equipment in the bed) which is a super super heavy slow truck from a stop until the turbo builds. and as i was merging a car came around the corner and i had plenty of room to where it was no where near a cut off, but they decided to not slow down and pass me blaring the horn on a no pass blind corner. other wise its just the typical dodge on my ass or a BMW for going 5 over.

My 97 with the 5sp 4x is only sitting at 92,500 km which is something like 57,000 miles. the only things ive noticed go wrong on it majorly is the EVAP solenoid which i still have to fix since its not giving me problems just a light, cracked cooling fan, stupid no seal problem with the radiator. other then that basic oil coolant timing belt stuff which i just did in august for the first time in its life. it turned out i had a small cam leak that i had suspected was a valve cover but was not the case. it wasnt poring oil just dropping about the size of a quarter or 3 every other day but i still had to do it while i was in there. this thing hasnt been beat on very hard, sometimes its fun to launch it from a stop and pop the clutch here and there but other wise its just been real loyal to me. Since my mother is the first owner i can speak on behalf of its entire lifetime in our hands. even after being severely over heated once a bout a year and a half ago its been like new with no problems what so ever. very reliable, capable, fun machines. like said above in PathyGig12's post, i do the same with keeping the rpms down. when on the highway trying to get up to speed from either a stop or merging, ill shift around 4500 but when im cruising ill keeping around 3k or 3500 then let it cruise anywhere between 2k and 2500. any higher on flat ground makes me feel off. if im on a hill ill leave it at 3k since it just doesnt have the go to keep going any lower in a gear that isnt 1st or second, or 4L.

i get the basic clamps with the 2 bolts on the side and the sandwich plate. These ones here are what i'm talking about which are very easy to use and install. I use them on my trailers all the time when, my personal and the ones we build for customers that require a deep cycle.

next time i get up to my shop this week ill try pulling it off and playing with it. if thats not the problem then what would it be? just a hose leak then? I think its a sort of vapour because you put in the special liquid and then it sprays that. but it doesnt feel wet at all so its some sort of dry vapor i think. ill look it up and see what comes up.

when i pop the fuel cap it does release pressure when i open it if that helps any. i forgot to mention that also. ill look under when its not raining but for the most part its only showing up as a check engine light thats really annoying. EDIT: technically I do have a smoke machine..... one of those Halloween ones if that would work lmao

I keep getting a check engine light for a P0440 and P0446. I have checked gas cap and it appears to be fine. The car has only been legally on the road for about a month and a bit and has since then starting doing this. I have checked off the valve next to the throttle body that there aren't major cracks but not sure what else to check. the car runs perfectly fine no idle stumble no loss of power the light just comes on i clear it and then it stays off for about a week on average. Not sure where to go from here and hoping its something cheap and easy i can fix myself.

I love mine. its a similar spec setup to yours same colour, 4x4 and the 5 speed i just love it so much. i love all the pathfinders but this style with the red just speaks out to me. Love your rig hope to see more of it

I used a gates kit on my 97 and am very happy with it so far. the tensioner felt very nice water pump was great also. i do recommend doing the cam seals too and like said above the thermostat. when i pulled off the rear cover and the cam gears my passenger side had a massive oil leak that i didnt even know about until i got in there. so i recommend you do those too for a few bucks its worth it.

i pulled it apart and got to the module. i checked over all the solder points and they look like new so i didnt bother. all the resistors on the inside looked alright too so i just cleaned off the screw contact points a little bit and now im just gonna wait and see. if it does it again ill do the solder points regardless next time if it ever does do it again. i did not see anything loose either so maybe jarring it enough to make better contact with the screws helped. time will tell.

i might do that on friday. but the thing is i have my drivers test on monday and i cant work on it until friday because of school and what not so i dont want to tear into it a few days before and then have it not work at all. i might just do that because im probably over thinking it since ive never taken this apart before. would that also give me the code p0500 then if that was the issue and theres a bad joint somewhere? EDIT: just watched a video on how to take it apart so ill just try it tomorrow or something and hope that works out

Well it happened again, and it gets a little weird. It stopped working the other day so I tried the same fix as the first time and that worked. Then it happened again. I tapped in the plastic and it spring to life. But then I got a p0500 code and the dash wasn’t working. I cleared the code and punched it again and then it sprung back up to working. Why?

had this problem in my armada. the glass handle would work and the hatch handle would not. there is a little cable on the inside that goes to the handle mechanism that had slipped out of its hook. not 100% sure if the pathfinder is the same but it probably will be. and you can get to the latch from inside of the car you just have to crawl in and pull off the plastic panel. the steps are listed above by R50JR.

still think its absolutely hilarious how its been this long and its been in changed. BUT i ordered all the parts on rock auto and will be here Thursday including a new rad and fan since both have decided to kick the can. to anyone who is putting off their timing belt do not do it it is bad and can end horrific. im just lazy and didnt have the funds

oh man do i ever! at least it gives me something to do lmao

No problem! I’ve tried looking for these online before and couldn’t find any that would fit this so I said screw it I’ll just make my own. I’m very happy I did.

Never had a WD21 or have enough knowledge on them so though I’d just stick it here. If they fit the wd21 then that’s pretty good to know