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ACEAKAI

Members
  • Posts

    7
  • Joined

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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1995 nissan pathfinder SE 4x4
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    16-21
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1995

Profile Information

  • Location
    British Columbia
  • Country
    Canada

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ACEAKAI's Achievements

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  1. https://imgur.com/a/abnZihg It cut out the initial start but the initial start is normal
  2. i wont be able to test today but i could get a video of the cold start, ill try to test tomorrow.
  3. I've had this problem for the past 6 or so months after I had put a bottle of injector cleaner in it. when I start it up it goes to high idle then as soon as it starts to come down (after 5 or so seconds) it misfires really hard before going down to idle. when the car is heat soaked (driven like 10 minutes or more) it doesn't let me go above 30-3500 rpm (not like a limp mode but it misfires so much it wont go past) and when at an intersection it stutters and drops rpm into the 200s and sometimes lower. if I'm going around town doing errands and have to start and stop the car it will progressively get worse every start (probably from it getting hot) until I have to give it gas to start. I've changed the coil, distributor cap, distributor rotor, distributor bearing, all vacuum lines and replaced 1 of my two leaking manifold gaskets, the only thing I have changed that "helped" was the bearing but that only made it start a little easier because it was previously solid. I have no check engine lights and no signs of it being a head gasket problem. if anyone has had a similar problem please let me know what i need to replace and or how to test parts that might be the problem because I'm tired of buying parts that don't fix anything.
  4. i know it wont move as much air because theres really nothing better then the stock system at moving overall air, but with e fans even if im parked they will still be moving the same amount of air as when i was moving, with the efans they move a constant 1730 CFM per fan (not an insane amount but more then enough to keep it cold.) I do understand that it will create more problems (as with most mechanical to electric swaps) but the problems that may arise wont be too hard to fix (hopefully.)
  5. the oem fan was defiantly more then enough to cool the engine, to the point that it wouldn't get to running temp and during summer at low rpm my ac would blow warm unless I was moving the airflow from the oem fan wasn't enough to keep everything cold during summer and was cooling too much during fall and winter. my brother swapped his fans to electric fans about a year ago and hes had pretty good luck so far.
  6. I’m switching to e fans because for the conditions I have over here it’s hot with a lot of stopping and going, so the constant consistent airflow will be beneficial, plus it removes weight from the water pump making it last longer.
  7. This is my 1995 nissan pathfinder SE I’ve had it for about a year now, so far I have reindexed my torsion bars, replaced my timing belt (with basically everything else that comes with it seals, water pump, etc.) I am now installing electric fans and soon a new steering wheel as my OEM one started to fall apart. Is there anything else that would be worth changing/upgrading? I’ve been thinking about doing a slight polish in the TB, and doing new bumpers, and all new window seals.
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