Strato_54

Never ended up actually posting my E-Fan swap besides some info on another post. If I had to do it again, dual 12" not 10.

I've done bushings only and not the arms, and if you can get the arms for cheap just do that. I ended up having to cut out my old bushings from the arms with a torch, and the bolts that hold them to the rear end. Although it ended up working really good for me, it was an absolute pain to do. If you think you can get them out easily, still buy the arms with the bushings already installed....

I've had to install a few VHF radios in some trucks, but one I had the antenna run near a power cable for a light bar, and on another truck it was looped back on itself. Both of these had terrible reception and one had static only when the truck was running. Make sure the antenna cable is insulated very well. Adding more insulation and unlooping the other fixed the problem.

When I had to redo both of mine, only the 1st one would actually work even though the flashers went. After the flashers go, unlock then lock the door with the switch. This for some reason worked. I found that on page 5 after google surfing. Not sure why all the other instrustions didnt mention this.

Used wheel and tire worked out better than I thought. Still need to clean them up, but they ride way better than before.

The error free ones are the only ones I buy, even when its not necessary. They just seem to work better and last longer.

I decided to go in a cruise and ended up at the shop. And I can confirm there are 0 pins in sight. Even in the box of parts I have that I didn’t know what to do with on mine. I would just put silicone in there to seal the belt from water since that’s all it appears to be. No holes in the block either. All I ever do anyways is dab a bit of grease. Never hurts and it holds it there pretty good. Stick it to the pump with a bolt or 2 for alignment and it’s on. Pics are the best I could get shop has basically 0 light

Currently helping my brother do the timing belt on his 95. These pins arent there on his and it was dealer only maintained. Maybe its a seal for the gap between the 2 surfaces? Don't remember them on my VG33 either, if it had them at least. edit: my bad i didnt realise this was the older wd21 section

I can not confidently answer 2 and 3, but as for the shims those are a "quide" and to keep it away from the pump. The dome shame should be on both and should go on facing each other, not facing out. This is how my unopened vg33 came and to me makes sense the way it goes together as the shaper edge on the shim would catch the belt if it was ever to start walking. EDIT: This is also how my brothers 95 came as well now that I think about it

It's the certifacation that makes web broswers know the site is considered safe. It expired at 3:59 yesterday and at 4:30 I got the message after not getting it that morning. Not a huge deal otherwise, just gonna be annoying for a bit.

The "Service Engine Soon" light should be the same as "Check Engine".

Bank 1 is usually determined by the location of cylinder 1. Sensor 1 is Pre-catalytic and sensor 2 is after. I just took an old socket and cut a notch out of the side, and filed down the edge. EDIT: NO IM WRONG. it is bank 2 on the VQ but its still determined by the 1st cylinder

The oil pump is located on the front of the motor, behind the harmonic balancer and timing belt. Removing the timing belt sprocket and alignment plates will reveal the seal. The service manual does state you need to remove the oil pan to remove the pump. (LC-5)

Here is the diagram and specs for the clutch and pressure plate (CL-11). The fly wheel is speced at 61-69 FT-LBS (EM-37) Welcome to the forum!

The larger bulbs for the back lighting like in your picture should be a 194. And the smaller bulbs for the indicator lights should be a T5. These are what I purchased to swap my entire dash to LED. You shouldn't need a new base. The bulbs will pull out with some force. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0714DTL8Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've been running Efans for a few months now and have learned quite a lot. I am running Dual 10" fans from amazon part# RAF-10-RD+FMK-X2 just wired to a switched ignition signal. I did run the Hayden fan controller but that died after 2 months. part# 3651. I made my own fan shroud out of 1x1 aluminum angle and some checkerplate i had lying around. With just the fans and shroud with no special ducting (this matters) around the sides to force the air through the rad. My rad temps in the B.C summers were around the 200F mark on the highway cruising 100km/hr through mountains, while around town it would sit around the 190F mark. Now with the ducting (Foam tape, door scrape seal is what I used) it likes to jump between 186-188 cruising, and highway/hills it likes to sit at 194F, sometimes 200 if its real hot or I'm pushing it. I have noticed an increased performance of the AC, but with out the ducting the temp gauge will rise and the AC will start to go warm. (not sure what temp, but about 3/4) unless you start crawling. Adding the seal makes a difference for sure. Gas milage is hard to say though, but sometimes ill get 450+ KM out of a tank, just town driving with hills. I don't do much highway driving, and havnt had the chance to test the difference. Though I'm confident it will be better. Performance :). Having the Manual trans lets me feel a lot more than the autos IMO. The response is great, the low end power isnt changed much, but the higher end RPMs feel less held back and I use less throttle to hold 60km/hr. (Before around 7-10%, now 4-6% according to bluedriver) Usually I would never pass, as in the mountains it just feels way to under powered to do anything with out feeling like youre pushing it too hard. Now dropping into 3rd and hammering down feels way more impresive, and merging makes me a little more confident. I do how ever have a PCV delete, which really only made my 2000K and lower RPM more responsive. it would either idle or sit at 2k before. I myself am quite happy with these result as I get a boat loads of room to work in the engine bay, and changing a belt takes no more than 5 minutes.

Good to know. Where we live and where it will stay we arent really concerned with an alarm, plus it makes room for a modern one. Honestly wasn't a fan on the green but its kinda growing on me the more I look at it. It has very few swirl marks and was cat guarded, so no rodants. I'll get more pictures of it too once we really get deep into it. While my dad was cleaning it, he said all he could think about was how its cleaner than his 05 F250 Lariat Diesel. Mom and I could help but laugh. Cant wait to see what it turns into since I have no control over what gets done to it.

A few weeks ago now I was browsing FB marketplace and came across this 95 wd21. Though its not mine, my brother ended up picking it up as his first car for $800. Listed as "Parts or Project". So we made it a project... Sadly its not a manual to match mine, but the auto is cool I guess. Suprisingly it also came with the Haynes service manual too which to me was pretty suprising. https://imgur.com/1d0sXXj https://imgur.com/cjKJEfY It's deffinetly going to get some rear bumper treatment like mine and a proper exhaust as the old was was all holes. There is no rust in the sunroof area, only on the lower exterior. The frame is fully intact with no holes or any cracks (so far). Had a small valve cover leak on the passenger side, for 187km, not too bad in there IMO. https://imgur.com/kAPyWqc When we picked it up it was a no crank no start. Assumed to be alarm because it went off one day and never ran again was what we were told. We ended up buying it regardless, but that night my dad was tracing wires and found a fuse. Pulled it out, the dash light turn off and it fired with the key. So far we have yet to find anything that doesn't work on it. (tried posted imgur HTML embeded, didnt want to work for me sorry)

RIght!?!?! My mom never took mine off road really ever when she still daily drove it, she hit lots of dirt back country roads but never any real mountain roads. she only ever used 4H for the winter months in southern Alberta. The whole time I was waiting for him to take it down a dirt road but he didn't. He basically walked around it, juiced it on the highway and went off of that. Though they do cruise the highway very nicely and can maintain speed better then some of the little trash piles on the road today, they do shine better off road when you give them the chance. Even though i am bias to not liking the video outcome due to the fact i own an R50, i watch RCR and he really didnt do a great job on these in this video. Very lackluster all around

Dang ive been waiting for him to finally do a video on these. Kind of happy he did, but definitely hit the heart a little lmao

well, i dropped about 250ML of oil and replaced the same amount with the Lucas, and basically no change. the noise is slightly quieter, and valve train noise is also a little down but other wise 0 change in oil pressure. I'm convinced now its probably just gonna stay that way, because I checked the oil for dust and nothing. As long as it runs and moves under its own power, I'm ok with it for now. I'll run it with the Lucas and then next change ill just go with a 10w-30.

Thanks for the response. Yeah it is true we run a 5w-30 in the winter and its a very common grade here, but its mostly 10w-30 as well, but in my climate the summers get pretty hot and all the sudden go to freezing. My 6.0 powerstroke runs a 15w-40 pretty much all year round. though it doesn't like starting in the winter, once its warm no problems. I do regret not going with the 10w-30 but live and learn. although its not a high mileage engine with only as of now 96,200 KM, I'm trying to keep it lasting as long as I possibly can, but that noise is kind of a new one. it has been making it for a while and though I am worried about it, I'm not loosing too much sleep over it, as long as i keep it above 2k, no noise and it gets me around fine lmao. I did not check the gauge, nor do I have a mechanical gauge to test it with, how ever, I do believe my gauge is somewhat accurate as the readings I do get are some what expected like my idle pressure and the 60 PSI I get on a cold start. And as my RPMS go up so does the pressure, along with the noise going away. I have yet to add the stabilizer, will probably do that tomorrow afternoon, but I'm hoping it will at least work enough to get me by till I change to a 10w-30 and know I at least got something out of this expensive jug. I am confident though that its not a lifter noise as I can hear the "knocking" only when I lay under, or put my ear in the wheel wells. Although I'm not ruling out lifter, it just sounds like that area. I'll do more investigating before I throw in the Lucas, but for now I'm just trying to grab as much info as I can. When it isn't making the tapping noises, the only other noises I hear are the typical valve train clicking you get on idle or even a raised RPM. With such low KM on the motor I find it hard to believe its a rod bearing that would be making me lose my oil pressure, and more likely a cam bearing. but the one idea I've had, after reading a few posts is it could be something with the pick up tube? is it possible for the pick up tube to leak before the pump and maybe its leaking out before the pump or getting air? Just a thought I had read and have set in the back of my mind as a possibility if its true.

well with lack of response and lack of other information, my plan is to add a little bit of Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer, run that for a little bit until I have the time, and money to attempt to fix it properly. the bottle was 15 bucks so if it doesn't work out then so be it I'm down 15 and the price of the oil I bought. But other wise if it does help then that will get me by until I can drop the pan and check my bearings. I'm not afraid to drop the pan, I simply don't have the time and I don't have the ability to give my pathy up for a bit as I need it for school and work. if the Lucas stuff doesn't work then maybe may long ill set aside to dropping the pan. I've seen super mixed reviews on this stuff, ranging from people swearing by it to having nothing but problems. With that said, it says to use 20%, I might just do 10 or 15 to see how it goes. I know running a higher weight would probably work, and I will do that, I just don't wanna waste a less then 100KM oil change 3 days after I changed it. After a while I'm going to swap to a 10w-30 most likely and just stay with that, though I'm not sure what to do about it in the winter. maybe just make sure I go drive and eat lunch somewhere else with the heat on? who knows.

Quick update: problem has not been resolved, but last night the temperature dropped and my pressure stayed at 60 till I got a block away then it was sitting at 50 idle. Once I got to school if I held it at 2K it was sitting at about 50-55 and 20 PSI idle and I can hear the slight tapping noise not nearly as noticeable. Like I had to really be listening for it. And I could only hear it holding at 2K and not at idle. Even hot there is no noise idle, just my valve train click

Well, my pathy is making some funny noises. I recently installed a cheap amazon oil pressure gauge, and when I first installed the gauge, my readings were a little low. They were about 50-60 PSI at 2K RPM with a normal idle PSI of 9. (manual says 60 PSI at 2K warm) now its getting hot out and my readings are a little worse. On a cold start, after I let the motor run for about a minute or so, the oil pressure at 2K will sit at about 58 to just over 60. but when its warm it sits right spot on at 40. When its idling it will show a lower oil pressure closer to 5. To show this, here is a video of my gauge at the different RPMs. On top of having the lower pressure when its at operating temperature, I can hear what sounds like a tapping noise if what sounds like the bottom end. (In the video if you listen closely you can hear the chatter.) Its not a full knock, but it sounds a little loose. It only does it when I'm holding RPM at 2K and its warm. If its doing something like climbing a hill then there is no noise, if its accelerating there's nothing. Its only if its on flat ground, in gear holding at 2K or just being held at that RPM not moving. I did change the oil about 2 hours ago now with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30, and a K&N gold filter with no change in results. My fear is that its a bearing, but I'm hoping its just my oil pump not building enough pressure and the tapping is just from a low oil pressure. but I'm not sure. Any insight on to what could be going on here? Could my gauge just be reading wrong and the tapping is half normal? or is there a bigger problem here then I'm aware of? It still drives fine, doesn't feel like its at a loss of power and I only hear the tapping at 2K and not under serious load. QUICK NOTE: both of my tensioner pulleys do have a bit of play in them but I don't think this is where its coming from but still worthy to note