alexg89

got it on. only thing we used from the Xterra was the supercharger, intake, lower intake, and pulley bridge. Stock ecu, stock crank pulley, stock injectors, stock maf. got a 69.5in 6 rib belt, cut 1 rib off to fit the 5 groove crank pulley and ac compressor. fits like a dream. Notched a half hole on the top right bolt for the tensioner bracket since it was off half a hole and pinched it tight with the bolt. cut the hood and we are good to go. Gonna hook up a sniffer to it to see what AFRs are looking like but with headers no cats and full 2.5in exhaust we are still getting some black smoke so dont think its leaning out. moved knock sensor up to the top of the sc but i think it may be pulling timing when it hears some stuff. gonna get it on a scanner and see whats happening there also, may stick a resistor in place. good bit of teflon was missing so we are seeing just a smidge above 5lbs on the boost gauge, we got a buddy who does cerakoteing and other engine assembly coatings which are safe for the sc rotors so we may rebuild it and get them coated. Other wise it runs great and zero issues so far

im sure its possible, do we want to go to that extent though? not really. i got majority of all the parts cleaned up at work so far and i think we may shoot for this weekend to stick it all together. guy we got it from didnt really have all the bolts so thats gonna be fun. but ill keep this updated as we go. stock ecu and stock injectors should be fine since these things have a pretty fat fuel map as it is. plus we have a boost reference FPR worst case

good deal. ive been trying to find someone who has attempted it. Commented on one of his videos to see if hes still around. Curous to know if its still kicking. Running na ecu and injectors may be Risky but unplugged o2s would give he extra fuel. question questions questions lol

Lets talk SC stuff. Im familiar enough with it being i swapped my 00 xterra. Buddy has a 97 that is SAS and hes diggin the SC swap i did. I have a spare xterra motor with all the bracketry so we can get the alternator and ps pump swapped to the correct sides if need be but i dont see that being an issue. What i do see being an issue is that the ECUs have a different pigtail. which doesnt allow me to plug an play the xterra ecu into the r50. This brings me to my next thing. option A, stock ecu, stock injectors, Xterra maf, wide band and see whats going on. option B, stock ecu, SC injectors, z32 or maxima maf, wide band, ect Option C stock ecu, stock injectors, Boost reference FPR, wideband ECT. We had a rear mount turbo R50 once with just the FPR and it ran great on 7-10lbs. Never blew up, never hesitated, and made good liniar power. Ive searched all over the web for a SC swapped vg R50. Give me some light if you have it casue if not we are moving forward anyway with trial an error

i got it off etsy, its for a toyota highlander . i cut it to fit

Scored some 31x10.5 mts on wheels for 70 bucks and stuck some 7in leds on the bush guard

so after probing everything, burping the system multiple times, getting a mechanical temp sender, pressure testing the system, hooking my scanner to it ... come to find out its the dash gauge itself.. i punched the dash and it started working again.. took the dash apart cleaned everything up .. took the gauge out of the cluster cleaned the contacts and printed board, re tighten it all back up and it works fine

So let it warm up again, bought a mechanical Bosch gauge from advance.. popped the radiator cap off, turned the ac on and let it idle for 20-30 mins and it maintained 185-190... hold it at 1500-2000 and it would drop a little from circulation.. im thinking either there is a wire issue or the temp sender is bad but i already replaced it with another one off an old motor.. ordered up a new one and we will see what happens

So check this out.. im wondering if a wire got pulled somewhere.. Not saying the cooling issue isnt there but its never ran hot before ever I go out and was gonna move it up the drive way and i notice the temp gauge is up a little bit.. its 67 degrees here in central fl and it hasnt moved since last night

Drained it made sure everything flows.. same thing.. top hose is hot.. bottom is kinda warm.. im thinking thermostat

So check this Pulled up in front of a buddys, put it in low range, did a 2wd 1,2,3 smokey burnout.. got down the road and it was running hot.. get home and the upper hose had slid off just enough to leak.. Put it back on and weirdly enough it wasnt low on coolant.. let it idle in the drive way and the temp gauge just goes up to H.. Bleed the system with the bleeder on the intake manifold and its good. switched out the temp sensor on the upper outlet .. same thing Been sitting in the driveway for 30minutes now and its still up on H.. thinking maybe thermostat is stuck? top hose is hot lower is kinda warm any ideas??

Florida sunsets

Got some paint on the wheels this weekend. Was gonna put my manual hubs and snorkel on but lacked motivation