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Sorry to hear, is there any chance of resurfacing? Unfortunately I sold my spare flywheel a couple of weeks ago to another forum member, so I'm all out. I got mine from car-part.com by calling wreckers until one would pull it and ship it to me, maybe give that a shot.

I've been meaning to do a write-up of my conversion with photos, it's more involved than the VG33 (I used that doc commodorehat referenced above as a base). It just takes time to write and I'm busy/lazy. I can say you can't put a manual with the full-time 4WD, it doesn't fit the back of the trans. Also the full-time computer needs the auto trans computer to work. So you'd need to convert to PT with a part-time transfer case, not impossible, but more work than starting with part time 4WD. Also if you have VDC/stability control I don't think it will work without these two computers. You'll need a manual ECU, deal with NATS (I disabled it), and clutch assembly/parts, the rare flywheel, and some other pieces. I still have my auto trans which shifted fine before removal, I've been meaning to post for sale. If you wanted to stay auto, you could buy mine and put your fulltime backplate from your trans on it to fit the full time 4WD. If I had a FT model like yours, I'd find a rusted out or blown-engine manual car, rebuild the trans if it needed it, and take all the parts and build up your car with them, it would be cheaper and everything would be there. I was just lucky that I had an SE with part time 4WD already and didn't need to many parts.

The last digit on Nissan part numbers generally means minor differences for the same part, or a part upgrade/revision which is why it's 0 for the first year then 1 for the second, they probably made some small change-mid production. You can order the 0, but if 0 is NLA can likely get the 1 and it'll fit the same. Here's a good guide to Nissan Part Numbers http://datsun1000.com/PageView.asp?PageID=72 There was an oil leak at the back of my engine too. I bought a new RMS but you have to drop the pan (and axle if 4wd) to replace it, and as some other posts here have said it's not usually the RMS that leaks but the RTV/sealant around the RMS holder plate that was applied badly or just got old. That was the case for me. I applied a thick bead of sealant all around the gaps on the plate that holds the RMS, and that fixed the leaks for me. If I figure out a gallery I can post a before/after picture. Some people say to replace the gaskets on the rear coolant pipe when the trans is out as it's easy to access. If it's 4wd change your transfer fluid and the rear driveshaft output seal. Change whatever seals on the trans you can and check the reverse/neutral switches aren't leaking. My transfer case switches were working but leaking. Buy genuine - cheap copies aren't sized correctly, won't work, and are a pain to replace when it's back in.

I bought a NOS "Nissan Genuine" clutch, which was just an Exedy so that's the one the buy. As for flywheels, yours might be okay if the rivets haven't dug into it. The workshop manual says the flywheels are not supposed to be surfaced because they're slightly conical, idea being the clutch will grab from the outside first for gentle engagement, but it doesn't really make a difference if its flat. Besides, the clutch wears into this shape over time anyway. There's two versions of the VQ35DE R50 Pathfinder flywheel. The difference is the sensor tabs due to ECU upgrades. Cable throttle, 01.2000 - 07.2001, (US and Canada) 123104W001 https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/123104w001 (sensor plate has like 200+ slots) Electric throttle, 07.2002 - 2004 (Canada only) 123105W90A https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/123105w90a (sensor plate has 3x10 slots) The only difference between the two flywheels is the sensor plates, which unbolt and are interchangeable (but not interchangeable with automatic torque converter sensor plates). The VG33 flywheels and clutches are not compatible. I have a used but good condition 200+ sensor tab (cable throttle model) flywheel, and also a 3x10 sensor plate, which I might post for sale at some point.

If you mean the assembly with the bracket and master cylinder, when I was looking nothing came close. Maybe wrong but I think they're unique to Pathfinder. I bought my pedal assembly from a junk yard in Canada.

I wanted to say thanks a ton for this write-up Hawairish. I followed this guide a lot. Couple of years ago I bought a weak Xterra center and put it in, then later took it out again, ordered some more plate and discs, and rebuilt it filling it out completely, it works amazing now. I don't know if there's a ban on posting links or companies, but I bought new friction discs and plates (and all my OEM stuff) from Amayama. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-usa/pathfinder/r50/1373-vq35de/power_train/380 Also, it was bugging me that these diffs don't have an adjustable 'ramp-angle' mechanism like a lot of other diffs and the earlier H233b models do. It didn't make sense how the clutches are engaged. I looked into it, and found a doc somewhere that said these Hitachi diffs have a 'fixed' gear setup. The side gears are cut in such a way that the more torque (axle vs center force) they encounter, the more they push away the spider gears, which in turn compresses the clutches and discs for more lock-up. Then the actual amount of lockup is adjusted by clutch discs, springs etc. which is why there's so many variations in the packing between models - and is all covered here. Excellent guide thanks!

I know this is an old thread and OP has probably resolved the issue, but I wanted to share that I get where they're coming from in the FSM. The Pathfinder unlike other VQ35DE cars has a pull clutch, so the release/throwout bearing 'clicks and locks' into place when you install the transmission. When using the clutch, it pulls the release bearing/pressure plate fingers away from the engine to release, instead of a regular push clutch/pressure plate which obviously push the fingers towards the engine. Apparently this provides more clutch force with less clutch pedal effort but it's a more complicated system. This is also why the Pathfinder has a unique flywheel that no other VQ35DE uses. Can't use a 350Z flywheel - I tried, the surface is a few inches too 'high'. So reading the FSM it looked weird and complicated to me. But when I did it it makes sense, all you're doing is letting the withdrawal lever/fork assembly all fall out and off of the release bearing, so the trans can be removed without being stuck on the release bearing. The release bearing stays locked in the pressure plate, and you remove it once the trans is off by lifting the collar and it comes out. It seems to be designed for multiple reinstalls. The fork hole is pretty small, but you can get at the pin with small pliers and then it all falls apart easily. But having installed it 3x because I bought the wrong flywheel twice, you can also just push the collar at the base of the release bearing/pressure plate in towards the engine with a long flathead screwdriver, and the release bearing is 'unlocked' and pops out still held in place by the release lever/fork too. I don't know how to post quality pictures here yet but they'd describe it a lot better.

Take that heat shield off next to the resonator and underneath you'll find the auto trans & transfer case connectors. I bet that like Slart said one of the connectors is leaking at the trans, and the trans fluid is going along the piping and coming out at that junction area. When I was doing my auto-manual swap I noticed like half of the connectors there were damp with trans fluid. I think when the auto trans get old the sensor seals start to fail and trans fluid just starts to seep along the wiring, but yours looks pretty bad. It could be just transfer case sensors leaking, they are easier to get to and replace but I don't recall them having tubes just bundled wires so it's probably trans wiring. As for how to fix it, I guess it depends which connector is leaking. The one that was leaking for me I think was the torque converter RPM sensor. You'd have to pull the trans to replace it. So if you can't get to it without pulling the trans, you could possibly fill up the connector hose with RTV and hope that holds the fluid back.

I just converted my 2003 SE from auto to manual. I've been meaning to join here and post about it. I bought a local 2002 manual transmission and rebuilt it with new bearings and synchros then summer 2024 I installed it. I didn't have a parts car. Started collecting parts in 2020 including calling small-town Alberta Canada junkyards because Nissan didn't sell manual 03-04 models in the US. Not all of the OEM parts are available any more. But Beerett yours is a 2000 so like others have said, I'd recommend you find a domestic manual trans for parts. Is it the 3.3 or the 3.5, 3.3 is easier you can follow that guide above. I needed a Canadian ECU and to deal with NATS. The flywheel signal plate is different for 01-02 (cable throttle) and 03-04 (elec throttle). And obviously the VG33 flywheel is not compatible with the VQ35. I've manual-converted other cars but I wouldn't say this is easy. Unless you specifically want a manual, fixing the auto might be easier.