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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1995 SE V6 (WD21-D) 5-speed manual
  • Place of Residence
    Oakland CA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
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  • What do you consider yourself?
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Oakland California
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Machine tools, firearms, motorcycles, electric guitar, fishing & camping

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shaggy's Achievements

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  1. Hi there. I've replaced the starter twice on my '95. Each time the problem was hesitant solenoid action, and each time a new starter and solenoid 'fixed' it for a couple years or so. I'm wondering if a worn ignition switch was part of the problem, as I've always had to give the key a pretty energetic twist to get it to contact. Lately it's been completely unresponsive after sitting overnight, and requires five or six tries to get it to make contact. So far I've been lucky, but I'm not holding my breath. I'm lazy, I'll admit. Fault tracing old wiring and connectors drives me nuts. It only needs one bad connection somewhere. My '95 has been a great vehicle, but has too many electrical gremlins these days. I'm preparing myself for another used vehicle, but not sure what it'll be. I wish you as good luck with yours as I've (so far) had with mine.
  2. Thanks Mr. R! 8>] It's funny when your truck starts playing tricks -- yesterday my Pathy locked me out -- w/ the key in the ignition -- haha! It's obviously got a sense of humor (it knows I keep a spare key under the chassis). Luckily I am pretty forgiving. I just wish someone would hurry up with that Time Machine -so I could have a brand-new '95 SE 8>}
  3. Thanks, yeah they do drive me nuts at times. I hope yours are fixable.
  4. Hi, thanks. If I remove /bypass or clobber the little black box under the seat, will that take out the alarm system altogether? Mine still works (when it works) as a deterrent. (Not worried about remote entry, that was busted when I got vehicle.)
  5. Hi -- Mine's a '95 SE, and has all kinds of electrical gremlins. Now and then the security system takes on a life of it's own, locking the doors as I'm trying to get in (made worse by the fact of a jimmied driver's side lock and a broken latch, so I have to enter from the passenger side -- or the rear hatch, and break my back getting into the driver's seat from behind). Also, the alarm arms itself, whether turned on or off. And was going off by itself at all hours to the point I had to disconnect both the siren and the horns. Oh, and yeah the ignition switch is plumb worn out, and requires a heavy hand to make electrical contact, but she usually starts just fine... except when due for a new starter (replaced two times now, in 4-5 years, not too big a deal once you know how). I'm allergic to working with wiring (or anything much else) under the dash, so my technique is basically just cursing and keeping my fingers crossed until it behaves. Sorry, I know that's not much help at all. Except for maybe the fingers-crossing bit(?) Notwithstanding said weird glitches, I drive this vehicle every morning and every evening to and from my shop, with zero actual problems about 99% of the time 8>] Good Luck! (to both of us) --Dave
  6. Thanks for your input. The 'converter' that is part of the wiring kit I just bought is, from what I've read, a passive device (brief description below) Not sure if it's switching or current-limiting, but I expect it's fused. CURT® 55353 - T-Connector Nissan Pathfinder 1995, T-Connector (55353) by CURT®. 3-wire System, Location: S1/S2. Provides a 4-way flat connector for specific Nissan trucks. This provides all you need to connect a trailer to the tow vehicle. More details on https://www.carid.com
  7. Actually, if anyone else is interested, I looked around and found a complete Curt Class 3 towbar setup for my '95 Pathy, including Curt wiring harness, for just over $200 and free shipping, at CARiD.com. Still appreciate the initial link though, it gave me a starting point ? PS -- it actually cost a bit more than I thought. Shipping was reasonable but not free, and then tax, of course. Still, pretty reasonable at $268 total, including two (high and low) ball carriers. --cheers
  8. Wow, thanks -- really appreciate it! ? I'll give that one a go.
  9. Hi guys. Excuse my ignorance, this feels like something I oughta know already. Can anyone tell me, does my '95 Pathy wiring have a trailer hitch wiring connector installed as part of the stock wiring loom? I looked around under the rear bumper, but couldn't see anything like a spare connector or loose end. If it doesn't, what is the normal procedure? --thanks very much! Dave
  10. PS--Code 34 still indicating detonation sensor circuit malfunction. It's been that way for a couple years and as usual it doesn't seem to affect anything, so I'm ignoring it. Timing seems good @ 15-deg BTDC at 750 rpm. Dave
  11. Hi Guys--Well, the engine hasn't missed a beat since a week ago when I replaced the distributor bearing. I had the exhaust system checked out and a heat shield and a hanger rewelded. Apparently the cats are OK and noise from the manifolds not an issue. I checked the timing in the beginning, and a couple times since, and this brings up a question... I have 4 timing marks on my crankshaft pulley, with smaller marks (three of them) in between those. The small mark in the very middle I think represents 15-degrees BTDC, which, from what I can get out of my manuals is the correct angle to set it (at a low idle). Is that where you guys set it? -thanks Dave
  12. Yep, that was exactly it. What gets me is that it would run OK cold 8>| I was so fixated on them newfangled sensors 'n stuff, I overlooked a simple mechanical fix. When I finally pulled the dizzy and turned the shaft by hand it was pretty obvious. Anyway, runs like a champ now, and got a lot of badly-needed TLC besides. And I learned a thing or two. I performed a celebratory vacuuming out last night, then I drove her home and cracked open a bottle of Asahi 8>] I will keep you all updated. Thanks again guys for your help. Have a great weekend! Dave
  13. Got itchy fingers, so I took a long lunch break and went and got the new bearing (NSK Japan, identical to the OEM one). Had the distributor reassembled and back in in under an hour. She starts and runs really clean, so I've got no doubt the sensor is good. I'll go for a longer test drive tonight, but I'm pretty sure it's OK. Guess now I'll have a spare distributor on the shelf, just in case 8>] Will check back later. Thanks to everyone for your suggestions and help! Dave
  14. I dunno what you mean by 'throwing parts', that's exactly what I've avoided doing. So far everything I checked was old or shot. I bought and returned two new parts after checking them against the old ones (one of them on the suggestion of a fellow NPORA member). Ebay parts are cheap and delivered to your doorstep in a few days (though sometimes not by the weekend, unfortunately). My local wrecker has no Pathy ignition parts, and I haven't got a spare half day to go on a wild goose chase. Meanwhile I'm working and making $$$... and asking questions to help track down the problem. Gotta get back to house-painting now... Dave
  15. Oh sorry, I thought I mentioned--I got a pulled one on the way that I got for $50. Of course the bearing could be shot in it too, and will certainly have 150k or more on it. I wouldn't put it in without checking, would you? While I'm waiting for that to arrive (next week?) I'll have a brand new bearing in this one today and ready to install ( assuming the sensor is OK). I don't see that as a problem. BTW, most of the parts I replaced badly needed replacing. Thanks for your generous advice 8>) Dave

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