peejay76

Thanks for the info, pics would be great if you can swing it! I know the W/D22's use a nose cone on the starter, next time I'm at the junkyard I may pick up a spare. Mainly wondering because I'm in the process of replacing my WD21 starter (reman Bosch unit) and if I ever have to do it again, if the highest quality option is a non-W/D21, I would know it's a sure thing and not a gamble.

Will these starters freely interchange? If the transmissions were basically the same from 86-04, then in theory yes?

Sorry about the late response! I think the leak is gone, or was never leaking from the valve covers to begin with. The gaskets were installed round-side down. I have to do them on my D22 pretty soon, I'll try to give more info then!

Sorry, all, gotta bring this thread back to life! Just took my 94 out for a test drive and during the trip the CEL came on, got codes 11 (camshaft position sensor circuit) and 14 (vehicle speed sensor circuit). As for the VSS, the speedometer works fine, but not the "analog" odometer nor the digital trip odometer. As others have stated, the FSM isn't too helpful in troubleshooting or diagnosing this area. Am I looking at a bad cluster? Anybody got tips on what to test? Thanks! *** Edit: Errr, sorry about that, please disregard (for now!). Just took it for another spin and now both odometers work. Now, I did reset the trip odometers this time (they were already showing "0.0"), not sure if that made a difference or not, but I shoulda at least tried that the first go-round!

Round down it shall be!

The gasket/valve cover area seem to be not leaking (right now), perhaps it was burn-off from something prior or I'm being naive! If/when I hafta replace 'em again, I'll try the non-RTV route unless the covers have started to "wear", I recall I used RTV the first time and the cleanup was NOT fun! As to the orientation, I think I reasoned that round side into the cover would make sense, thinking it would flatten and fill the cover once tightened, but then I think an interweb search contradicted that saying the round side 'needs' to flatten against the head. Who knows???

Thanks Slart for the kind offer! I'm going to CAREFULLY remove these (I think my main concern was the hexes getting ever more rounded), worst case if I hafta purchase 1 or 2 new ones, that won't be so bad. But I also need an "excuse" to see what's new at the junkyard! Strato, did you run into any galling issues or anything with the stainless bolts? And I didn't know that about the studs and nuts, are you the original owner?

Seems the ones at the local hardware stores usually have a slightly larger shoulder on the head that has trouble clearing the hub cover cutouts. I'll try to be careful removing and installing the current ones, or see if there are any Xterras/Frontiers in the junkyard that have 'em.

Anybody know if the hub bolts (showing different part numbers) are actually different? Or which one is correct? Additionally, a better/cheaper place to source 'em? Thanks!

Which side of the gasket goes against the cylinder head surface, the round side or the flat side? (And you all NEVER use RTV, not even in some of the more questionable areas???)

Thanks, Slart! (And sorry for wasting your and everyone else's time, I didn't even think to check the FSM 'cause it seems so much of the REALLY good stuff isn't in there!)

That plenum has to go down as one of the worst engineering marvels of the 20th century. As to your IAC valve, I think that's the one that they say to have a replacement gasket ready, if you find it needs disassembling and cleaning. Good luck, thanks for updating here!

Apologies for resurrecting this post, if there is a better way, but... Need to finally get around to fixing the fuel gauge on my 94. The gauge reads incorrectly (or some times not at all?) like OP's, and I don't think the low fuel warning light works. Do the round dash units not have the voltage regulator issues of the square dash models? Do all signs point to a bad sending unit, and is there a way to test it, probably involving removal of the pump assembly?

Ah, sorry, I misunderstood! "For fun", have you tried using an AI-tool to help diagnose what might be the problem? You have pretty good data on components and systems you've inspected and/or replaced, plus you have what seem to be pretty clear (perhaps unusual!) symptoms. Something tells me you're on the right path with the lean misfire, I briefly looked it up and it sounded like what could be happening in your case. (If you've been able to test drive it, does it do the thing where the RPMs drop, say if you were driving at a steady speed/RPM, or is that just not under load?)

Are you able to test if it does this with the used/core distributor?