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CALPATHY

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Everything posted by CALPATHY

  1. CALPATHY
    If R50JR said to get a group 24 or 34 AGM I agree, I have a 34 AGM in mine.
  2. CALPATHY
    That took some effort, I am glad I have the factory manual. Great job!
  3. CALPATHY
    The auto trans is probably easier, we were talking about manual.
  4. CALPATHY
    Good tip, especially for the rear end.
  5. CALPATHY
    Draining the tranny is the easy part, filling it up is a bit of a pain unless on a rack.
  6. CALPATHY
    There are couple or work arounds if you find the knock sensor is bad: 1) splice in a resistor but I don't remember which one, should be searchable, I did that as a quickie to pass smog 2) relocate the new knock sensor on top of the engine (which I did eventually) I think instructions searchable here as well.
  7. CALPATHY
    Maybe they expanded it, I just got the text message and I am certainly not in a salt state (although right by the ocean). P.S. The service department confirmed Nissan now wants to check all of them.
  8. CALPATHY
    FYI, just received a notice from my local dealer to check and possibly repair strut housing.
  9. CALPATHY
    The price is a little high, but if you are looking for a manual there are not easy to find. It took me a long time to find one even back then when they were more common.
  10. CALPATHY
    Check the distributor cap as well, it can collect water. Spraying Boeshield T-9 saved my butt couple of time when the distributor cap and wires got wet, displaced the water.
  11. CALPATHY
    Water intrusion from the overheating to distributor or other electrical?
  12. CALPATHY
    Wherever you think there may be moisture on electrical connections, it is a water displacing lubricant that leaves a protective waxy film.
  13. CALPATHY
    Hm, my 1997 Pathfinder locks from both sides. so either a circuit interrupt or short. If moisture, try Boeshield T-9 spray.
  14. CALPATHY
    To help troubleshoot you should try key both sides and also the door panel switches.
  15. CALPATHY
    Time to call Ghostbusters! Kiding asides, sounds like a short, possibly in one of the door switches. Does it do it from either side and just by key or the door panel lock switches?
  16. CALPATHY
    Last time I cleared codes it took over 150 miles for everything to reset.
  17. CALPATHY
    Update, I had the timing belt replaced and it still looked good after 20 years according to the mechanic. He also said that he prayed the whole time that he would not bust any of the bolts, they were PITA to remove.
  18. CALPATHY
    The reason I am asking is because the previous owner changed the timing belt in 2004 at 100,000 miles, but I am only at 165,000 miles currently twenty years later. According to manual the timing belt should be changed every 105,000, so according to that I still have 40,000 miles to go. Nothing is mentioned about age of the belt in the manual, however, and it has me wondering.
  19. CALPATHY
    Yeah, something is wrong. My '97 (manual) gets 14-15 in the city and used to get 18-19 on highway, but after installing free-wheeling hubs I get around 20 in unlocked mode. (21 on great occasion with the wind behind me).
  20. CALPATHY
    It has always done that, so I don't think so.
  21. CALPATHY
    Mine "shudders" in really tight turns going slow when the manual hubs are locked, in unlocked mode it doesn't do that.
  22. CALPATHY
    My LSD has been sufficient on wet/dry trails and some snow, but I don't do rock climbing.
  23. CALPATHY
    Takes a while (once I had to drive almost 150 miles) before it starts registering codes again.
  24. CALPATHY
    Too much of a possibility of a bad connection to the solenoid at some point in time (plus mine is a manual it can still be started without a starter), the fuel pump kill switch would be better in my opinion (or you can just remove the fuel pump fuse if you only need it on occasion). The electrician probably spliced into the second stage of the ignition switch circuit.
  25. CALPATHY
    Personally I would not do it, but you can splice into the starter solenoid wire.
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