CALPATHY

Last one I got was either from Napa or less likely, Pep Boys, direct replacement. I don't recall the wiring being a hassle so I can't help you there, but yours is a 99.5 and may be different.

In a similar situation, it did turn out to be the starter in my case. The old one initially would not start intermittently, then died altogether. Fortunately, I anticipated and already had a replacement starter in the car expecting to change it on the weekend but had to change it in a parking lot instead. It sure is a tight fit to get the old one out and new one in.

Since it is a universal, not a direct bolt on unit, it sounds like you will have to modify it to mount it, whether screws, velcro or an adhesive as best as you can.

I don't know think there is a fuse, but if it were a fuse it would not work at all. BTW, programming new ones is a pain, even if you follow the instructions perfectly. Last time it took at least 4 tries before I got it going.

Sounds like the heater core is plugged or less likely a kinked hose. To add: the diverter valve may not be opening all the way or partially obstructed.

The reason I haven't replaced my fog lights with LEDs is because I did replace my headlights with LEDs and although they are great, they do reflect in the fog, so I wasn't about to chance it with the fog lights. Perhaps you are right though, the fog lights are much smaller and might not reflect so much, especially if the LED is a warm white.

It has been a while but same thing happened to me a while back and had a blown out speaker as well. Ended up installing speakers with integral tweeters.

I am not sure what you mean by pop? Did the pop just start? If it is an SE you should have a limited slip differential which behaves differently.

I would check to see if you are getting the knock sensor code or if the previous owner installed a resistor in lieu of a knock sensor (you would not get any codes but then the ignition would not be retarded either) to get it to pass the smog test.

When it happened to me a different key that has not been used ended up working flawlessly. I had two more keys cut, both work, the old worn key doesn't.

I got the square version with the trunk open (which of course won't work) the last time; it did not last as long as the KOBUTA.

Another thought, some members have relocated the oil filter, do a search it has been discussed in the past.

Remove the skid plate and get a large pan under both the filter and the plug, when it trickles it can go all over the place. Have rags to wipe down oil that dripped onto crossbars, or get some absorbent pads and put them under the filter location on the crossbars before you start.

Marine breakers should fit the bill: Marine high amp breaker switches

The first line in the article is not correct about needing higher voltage. As Mr. Reverse pointed out the charging voltage for wet cells and AGMs are almost identical, so there is no need for a higher voltage. I also agree with R50JR that it is an unnecessary gimmick, especially if we do not know whether the Pathy ECU actually controls the alternator output.

Unless the ECU has a battery temperature sensor and able to charge in stages I think there is more harm than help done with the voltage booster; my guess it probably shortens battery life. How fast can an AGM battery be charged AGM battery charging AGM charging

The other day I tried to open my rear gate door on my 97' Pathy which hasn't been opened for some time. The window would open but the gate no go, key would not turn left. I gave it the Boeshield T-9 treatment which worked on the passenger door lock in the past, this time it didn't work. Then I tried lock lube with graphite, did not work either. I decided to try to force it and took out a copy of my Nissan key which is all metal as I was afraid the OEM Nissan key's plastic would break and voila it opened without any force whatsoever. Funny thing is the original key works on any other lock but the rear gate door, probably because it is rarely used. Got couple of new keys made and they work as well.

If it is a manual, the clutch switch could be wearing out.

If you have a bad knock sensor then I've been told that the ignition is then retarded due to faulty sensor, if true then it should not be the sensor.

Good video and good point about holding the extension straight. My extension is a tad longer so I don't need to use a swiveling ratchet.

When I bought my Pathy the toolkit was missing, the seller told me that it disappeared after a service at Nissan. I was unable to find one at the dealer or a junkyard. After experimenting with several extensions I found one that is a perfect fit and changing the plug is no longer the nightmare it was the first time I changed the plug without a proper tool.

That makes three. CA won't let a car stay on the road if it throws any codes and it has to be checked every other year. Fortunately, they don't look under the hood, so they don't know the knock sensor is elsewhere. If I remember correctly from the past readings, it is not a good idea to drive with a bad sensor because the ECU allegedly retards the timing.

Exactly. It could be done but not sure it is worth the hassle. +1 on the Scan Gauge I've had one for a long time, although I wish it were easier to see in sunlight.

There is an OBD hook up, bu no oil pressure or oil temperature (no sensor, for it, only for no oil pressure light) , but the other items you listed are there, plus a whole bunch more like maf airflow, etc. most of which I don't recall right now.

I had one of those, now I have a rectangular version with a trunk button as well (of course that one is not functional). It works, but sometimes you have to go through the recognition procedure couple times or so and the instructions were not the best.