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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/26/2022 in all areas

  1. Done it, didn't enjoy it. I destroyed them out with a combination of drill bits through the rubber to get the metal bushing out, then a sawzall to surgically cut the outer shell just enough to punch/chisel the shell out. It's a lot of work, and I only did it for poly bushing. Using a floor press isn't an option unless you've got some pretty specific tools/holders because the flange of the bushing obstructs the tube, and the shape causes other problems; you can't press out from the backside either because the rest of the arm obstructs the press ram. If you're just planning to put rubber bushings in, definitely just buy the complete arm. If you want poly, prepare to work for it.
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  2. Right under the Nissan emblem Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  3. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  4. Love that green... The bumper spot won't be a good one, unfortunately. There is body metal right behind that spot, and the bumper will block nearly half of the camera view because of the wide-angle lens. Even on my setup, the lens picks up the edge of the rims (which is part of the reason I want to relocate it to the center hub.) The spot above the license plate would be ideal if drilling through, though you'd probably want a style like the Crux CUL-03 instead, where the body of the camera is angled out. The wide angle lens will just pick up everything in view along the horizon, but perhaps not be too practical for reverse use if it's not angled downward a little. You'd just need to check if the image can be rotated 180° to support both vertical and horizontal (under) mounting. Alternatively, Slart's suggestion of using one of the integrated license plate mount cameras would allow you do drill a concealed hole behind the plate...but either way, you'll be drilling a hole. Yet another option is to mount an enclosed camera at the top of the lift gate, perhaps even mounted to the spoiler. There's a significant amount of space to route the wires inside the weather strip without it getting pinched. You could drill two small holes into the spoiler to undermount a CUL-10 style camera with adjustable bracket, or a fixed-mount lip style like the CUL-09 or CUL-06. Double-sided adhesive would also be suitable, though I prefer mechanical fastening personally. Wiring to that point is easy; I run my GMRS antenna wire out of the chassis along the weather strip. @R50JR has his reverse camera mounted up top on his roof basket and it gives a good reverse view.
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  5. A flush mount angled camera would be your best bet...single hole, one and done. Drilling into the liftgate (or truck, for that matter) takes a little courage, but mask it off, double check your clearances inside the liftgate (particular for the wiper motor and linkages), and take your time. It is possible to get wiring through the liftage tube/grommet going into the chassis. I've run wiring there previously for some LED lights I installed. Just need a rigid wire to fish/pull wires through, and removal of all the trim liftgate trim and weatherstripping. For the reverse signal, you've some options: Behind the front passenger kick panel, one of the harnesses has a yellow wire that is the reverse signal. The harness will depend on whether it's AT or MT, but they're in the same area. The FSM details it (I can help with more info about your truck). Many cameras will have a power wire "tail" at the RCA side and a positive and negative lead on the camera side. The camera-side wires can be tapped into the reverse signals at the tail light with the pos/neg wires (or just pos from the reverse pos signal and ground the neg wire). You can then connect the tail wire to the reverse signal on the radio, without having to use the reverse signal from the kick panel. (The tail light will power the camera and signal the radio.) If the camera side signal wires aren't long enough to reach the tail light (plausible in your case if installing on the lift gate), but you plan to use the reverse signal at the kick panel, you can cap the pos wire at the camera side and just ground the neg wire. You then need to connect the reverse signal, radio reverse wire, and the camera's tail wire together (this will send the radio the signal and power the camera). If the camera lacks the tail wire, you'll have to use the reverse signal from the kick panel for the radio signal, and also the tail light for the camera's power leads. Note that if your radio supports live camera viewing, you won't be able to utilize this camera for it because the camera will only be powered when in reverse. I recently added a reverse camera to my truck as a Phase 1 project, and while it fits the immediate need, it's not the end product. Because of the tire carrier, I made a bracket and ran the wires externally along the frame: This setup is temporary, and I may even redo the camera mount to center it in the hub. Phase 2 setup will require rewiring this camera completely as part of a quad-view setup using front, rear, and forward- and rear-facing undercarriage cameras for trail use. The live views of those will probably make my wife throw up.
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