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I'm the second owner of my pretty much stock 03 Pathfinder SE (auto, part-time 4wd) since 2015. Things happened in 2020. Decided to convert the Pathfinder to manual. Bought a manual trans from a 2002, took my time, and in summer 2023 finished rebuilding it. Not including that here as it's pretty routine - all new synchros, bearings, input shaft and some gears that had chipped teeth, then back together. If you have a 2000, 01 or 02 part-time or rwd you can swap in a manual, get a manual ECU, (deal with NATS), and be done. (You can't manual swap a full-time 4wd, fulltime unit only works with an auto) My problem with the 03 was Nissan discontinued manuals in the US in late 2002 for model year 2003, which also had new revisions with a more advanced ECU including electric throttle body and other changes. So I could either go 'backwards' to a US 2002 manual ECU and install throttle cable, find a wrecked US manual truck and swap everything across - or get an 03 manual ECU and make it work. I didn't want to go backwards. I'm also in WA which doesn't do smog checks so no issues modifying or mixing and matching. Luckily, Nissan still sold the 03-04 as manual in Canada. Looking at parts diagrams in Amayama it looked like the Canadian auto 03 model was near-identical to the US model, so the manual couldn't be that different, I figured. The worst outcome was it wouldn't work at all, or that I'd have to keep spending money until it worked or I gave up. I took the gamble. I reviewed the earlier Pathfinder auto to manual guide linked on this forum, and also looked up a lot of 350Z conversion forums as it's the same engine and ECU. Also Nissan Skyline and 300ZX forums as different engine, but same transmission. I found the throttle body changed part numbers in 07/2002 from cable to electric, so that was the cutover date. Anything after that was right. I searched individual junk yards in Canada until I found a place selling a clutch pedal and bracket, ECU, and flywheel. The tell with the 'right' car was there were no throttle/cruise cables in the engine bay pics, cuz electric throttle. The yards that had what I needed were in rural Alberta. Apparently Alberta has a lot of R50 Pathfinders in their yards. I mainly used car-part.com. I sent the ECU away to get NATS disabled so I wouldn't need to deal with it. Got everything in and worked end of summer 2024, and wanted to share here. Pics and posts to follow once I get an image service set up.

He has been an NPORA member for nearly 20 years and a regular the whole time. Recently he worked with us in the background to get the forum back online, root out problematic DDoS sources and test for reliability. And now adamzan has agreed to join the Mod Team. Welcome adamzan!

I have not yet been given an actual cause for this nearly week long outage, but after spending hours on the phone with the host company today, repeatedly reminding them that they had assured the site would be back up before this past weekend, here we are back up and running... finally! edit: Turns out the host utilizes AWS facilities, so this was related to the major AWS outage that occurred at the same time. Don't know why they couldn't just say that from the beginning.

First things first - remove the transfer case Lots of extensions needed to get to bellhousing bolts. I bought proper long ones after this. Auto transmission detached Flexplate Flexplate removed Source of my rear engine oil leak (after clean up) - rear pan seal job was badly done Sealed it up good. Also I didn't take a photo, but you need to remove the steel inner collar. It's a total pita to get out. It centers the torque converter, but the manual transmission uses a small brass one. There's videos online, the 350Z auto to manual conversion videos cover it. I couldn't get it out for hours and broke various tools, I thought that was the end of the project. But I got it out eventually with the exact right sized puller. Fortunately the R50 chassis has the clutch master cylinder hole already there under a plate Turns out the auto trans computer sits on the other side of the clutch blank plate so both come out at once Factory clutch master cylinder. I thought about steel clutch lines, but ended up using an ebay 240SX clutch line kit. Works fine.

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Good day everyone, one morning I was on market place and found a VG33ER forsale for a decent price and for a and was a good few hours drive but I picked it up with no prior intention of swapping my pathfinder. The swap is pretty straightforward along as you have all the parts from an ER to swap. It is also 02 Xterra ECU swapped on the original body and engine harness. The pulley is swapped now as of writing to the 4x4parts 2.4 quick change pulley on the stock SCB cut off. It makes a significantly more amount of power than before and is absolutely worth it if you can afford the premium gas. ALTHOUGH, it seems the MPG has been improved since the swap at least at partial throttle which is pretty cool. It's also running factoy R50 airbox with all original sensors. Here's what was swapped Lower intake Injectors Fuel rails (minor differences) Supercharger Spark plugs Spark plug wires Thermostat 180 to 170 AC tensioner only NOT alternator Belts Crank pulley Water and ps pulley NOT alt ECU and plug Pas side valve cover (only for PCV valve) To swap the ECU most of the pins are in the same locations how ever not all. you WILL have to solder a larger pin on the orange IACV wire and to make the SCB safety work you can reuse and replumb the map/baro switch as the SCB and it works the same. All valves, sensors and anything else are original 97 pathfinder. You will have to run different length belts for all 3 now that the V belt is deleted, the crank and water pump are different size and the super charger belt needs to be a 5 rib and shorter unless you swap the AC comp. Cruise even works too! It drives incredible and I could not be more happy with the result. before the pulley it feels like a more peppy VQ but after the pulley it pulls harder than one for sure. When I dump the clutch I'm always first off the line even to the diesel guys that book it off the light (i'm looking at you Dodge owners) and it seems to run cooler than my friends bone stock X since mine has a hole in the hood and gets good cooling. Thanks. Donor engine in back of my r50 On floor after getting it home repinning the ECU plugs Cleaning Radiator shows up Installing charger and intake *borart voice* VERY NICEEE

Rock auto has reman and some new off brand ones that are decent just don't get the cheapest of cheap sometimes those aren't that great. GB stuff is pretty good from what I've heard never tried it personally though Also, you only need 1 post you don't need to add to multiple sections of the forum

Just incase anyone needed to know, you CAN fit a fully dressed VG33ER in the back of an R50!

Here's a link to the service manual. Page 196. basically warm, then hold no load 2k rpm for 2 minutes then check timing in N should be about 15 degrees +/- 2

I have an extra distributor that I marked core. I have had it so long I forget why I marked it that way. I figured I would try and put that one in and see if the issue goes away. The issue went away. I couldn’t get it any closer than 17 degrees. That’s within the range the manual gives. I am relieved to know that it should be the distributor. I will get an another one and cross my fingers that it fixes the problem. I will report back after the new one is installed.

The manual transmission chassis cover plate was unavailable, so I cut the existing one to fit the manual shifter The service manual says to fill the transmission from the shifter hole, so I did Intermediate covers and soundproofing Manual transmission trim installed The original auto transmission connector block. I connected up the neutral position switch to the PNP relay so it only starts when the shifter is in neutral. And connected up the reverse lights, just four wires

I made an adapter for my transmission jack to securely hold the manual transmission in place. I've used ordinary jacks to reinstall car transmissions before but this thing is pretty heavy even without the transfer case and I didn't want it falling on me About to go in Lining up manual transmissions just right to install is always annoying. Sometimes you gotta take it completely back out and down and start again. Sometimes it pops right in You can see the innards of the transmission before the transfer case is attached. Without sealant the transmission oil would all seep out Technically the manual transmission transfer case is different - it has a small gutter under the input shaft, and subgears to absorb shock. But nothing that is needed for the conversion. The auto transmission transfer case works fine. But you have to apply sealant as the back of the manual transmission is open

A pic of the back of the new flywheel showing 03-04 signal plate A view of the clutch fork from the outside. It pushes towards the engine, which pulls the pressure plate 'off' the clutch and flywheel

So first I tried a 350Z flywheel - but it was too high and wouldn't allow the pull clutch to work so couldn't release the clutch. So pulled the transmission out again, and next I installed a US '02 flywheel But the signal plate is way different, it's for the cable throttle ECU and the engine wouldn't start 00-01-02 signal plate on left with like 300 or something holes. 03-04 signal plate on the right. The right side has 3x 10 holes. That's what I needed, but flywheel not flex plate I found I needed part number 123105W90A (03-04 only) which is unique to the R50 Pathy due to the pull clutch. It was hard to find but found one in the UAE from I think partsouq Correct flywheel installed I found the starter motor had to be shimmed back about a 1/2 inch otherwise starter gear would hit the flywheel. There's an official part number for this, a plate the starter sits sandwiched under, but it's out of stock so I just used washers OEM clutch plate is an Exedy Pressure plate installed It's pretty big as pressure plates go, but the pull clutch means the clutch pedal is light (is why they chose it for the Pathfinder - more grab but lighter to use)

Clutch pedal installed. I couldn't find a Pathy brake pedal - probably because its bracket wraps around the steering column. I kept hitting the brake when I went for the clutch, so I ended up just cutting the brake pedal the same size as the clutch pedal and it looks factory now You can't really see, but the clutch pedal bracket goes where the auto trans computer used to be. It has a clutch starter switch but I didn't connect it (did connect the neutral start switch though) The Pathfinder manual uses a pull clutch (not a regular push clutch) which I had to figure out how it works Got the OEM parts Assembled. It 'clicks' into the pressure plate on installation. Then to release you pull out that pin, and the fork falls out. You lift the collar on the clutch release bearing to release it from the pressure plate. It's kinda hard to explain without seeing it in action.

I had never rebuilt a manual trans before. Followed the service manual, "Beer Garage" (since deleted), and youtube videos and took my time. I used a toaster oven to make dropping the press fit gears back on easier. I bought a factory shifter. But I thought it was too tall so I cut about an inch off it and welded. I am not a professional welder at all. But it has held up fine. I also found and bought a NOS Pathfinder clutch, and a 350Z flywheel. I figured a 350Z is the same engine and clutch, and the clutch and flywheel fit together. Seemed so far so good.

My one tip is to make sure you can get the fill plug loose before draining the oil.

I'm running a Magnefine on mine as well. I don't know that it's strictly necessary, but I wanted to give my high-mileage slushbox every chance I could, especially after seeing a little glitter in the fluid when I flushed it. I routed the lines on mine so the fluid goes from the trans, through the stock cooler in the rad, through the aux cooler, through the filter, then back to the trans. My thinking was that the OE cooler can only bring the fluid temp down to the coolant temp, so it should be the first stage. I put the filter on the return side just in case the cooler (which was not new when I installed it) had some schmutz in it. That I don't know. But I've had the filter on mine for the last 30k miles, and it hasn't complained.

Finally got this engine built New pistons, Rings, Bearings, Timing Chain, guides, tensioner, Water pump, clutch, plugs, leads, oil pump First Start on Thursday, Yesterday I took it around the block, got a heat cycle through it then retorqued the head, set valve clearances and dialled the timing in. It sounds and feels great! Ready for the next 500,000 hopefully!!

well got it all on the ground yesterday and drove it around. gotta get the alignment done, new tierods, rack bushings and possibly another set of camber bolts. I have everything in the garage but just ran out of time. Also front diff isnt in since pinion seal is trashed and i think its leaking behind the passenger axle. may just source another diff from the junk yard. Otherwise it drives around! just got to get these AC coils and 9446s to settle in and well be good! https://imgur.com/3XhUaw5 https://imgur.com/6QKYQiV

I know a lot of people like to delete stuff like those lines but the truck just runs better when you don't try to engineer it yourself lol.

so little update. Got my SFD ordered back in like november and it showed up in december BUTTTTT the lovely people at UPS messed up the box quantity with item quantity and the tariffs/duties skyrocketed to 2400 bucks per box. which means 4800 for 2 boxes with 500bucks worth of parts in them lol so its been re routed back to the shipper in canada and is currently "lost" per ups but they found it in montana. It has been an absolute shyt fest and waiting. So in the meantime i put on some 2in AC coils from 4x4parts and debating on if i want to rip the trans out of it to do the clutch now and replace the input shaft bearing since it is howling and making all kinds of racket. Heres a pic of the truck last night after i did the coils

yep ! that's a good guy ! happy that the forum is back online... facebook groups are just not my thing when you search things ! way to go adam

Thanks! Glad to help out.

Not able to upload photos with insert image 2" AC coils with 4" SFD, kyb struts, missing link, LR RKB101060.C8 about 6 inch rear lift, Bilstein 5125 33-185569, Warn Hubs, -3.75 backspacing, 33x12.5R15 Duratrac Wrangler, tire carrier with full size spare https://imgur.com/gallery/AIvp4br

Okay, so I figured out why I was having such an issue. It was the wrong seal. Sigh.

Check out Car-part.com This will search all the yards around you Via distance. also if memory serves, look for an xterra rear differential. they are 33spline as well like the R50s

A quick short I did on what needs to be swapped

Was just exploring the forum to see if anyone had made a shelving unit in the trunk of any of these pathys and i stumbled across this post. Super unique and awesome build!

I love the sneaky bonnet hole! Cool conversion mate and thanks for sharing

I was going to do the same thing but decided for the work it's probably just worth doing the repin. I still get OBD which is nice I can use my blue driver as a second set of gauges for my coolant temp or on road trips to check codes. I drove it to dinner the other night about 40km away and it felt amazing. used half the fuel and I normally do and was a freight train up the hills. Cruise control was a blast to use with it too as it worked with 0 issues or adjustments. Still a couple things I gotta finish up but I've been driving it to work and am very happy. Not hammering on it too hard yet still trying to make sure it holds together but so far its solid

First drive this morning into work with the KA. It is stronger everywhere except I would say low down torque. It sounds and goes way better overall. Very happy, I should have done this years ago!

I had same issue with my QX4. As soon as I hit 50mph, I would get that groaning vibration through the floor. It was less noticeable after 65mph-70mph. Breaking, coasting, hard lefts and rights... no change. I then switched from 2WD to "auto" and it went away as long as I was accelerating. If I let off the gas, it came back. I got under it and checked driveshafts for play, front one had some play in it. Replaced u-joints, did not solve issue. Replaced trans mount because it was shot... no change. When I replaced both front CV axles and wheel bearings, it was smooth as glass again... I know I am a year late but.... for anyone else having the same problem..

You might have to do some fiberglass work on the hood, but it shouldn't be too hard I would think. I have a complete 2002 Xterra SE SC parts rig if you need anything that won't cost an arm and a leg to ship from Ontario.

The gasket/valve cover area seem to be not leaking (right now), perhaps it was burn-off from something prior or I'm being naive! If/when I hafta replace 'em again, I'll try the non-RTV route unless the covers have started to "wear", I recall I used RTV the first time and the cleanup was NOT fun! As to the orientation, I think I reasoned that round side into the cover would make sense, thinking it would flatten and fill the cover once tightened, but then I think an interweb search contradicted that saying the round side 'needs' to flatten against the head. Who knows???

I am a little confused on what you're trying to achieve. Are you looking for something in particular, or just keeping an eye on things? +1 for a grommet if you do start making holes. My dad's Tundra had an open hole in the timing cover (previous hack lost a grommet), and a mouse got in. It turns out skipping two teeth is not enough to kill a 2UZ-FE, but making one skip two teeth is absolutely enough to kill a mouse.

The manifold is warped. I haven’t measured it, but it looks like around 1/8” or so. It’s at the front of the manifold. I don’t think it’s going to want to bend that much going back together. The middle and the back are flat. I have a belt sander but I can’t find any sanding belts that are the right size. If I can find the right size, it’s the wrong material. It’s going to take me for ever to make it flat with the belt I have now. I was wanting to get this finished this weekend. That’s not going to happen. I only had to drill and resize one hole. It was the very front. Thankfully it was the easier one to get to without having to get an extra long drill bit. We don’t have the corrosion out here compared to others. I can’t imagine having to deal with that. The O2 was a Bosch, I think. I made sure to keep the wires away from things.

96 SE

Recently i bought an r50 to replace my wd21 after almost a year of chasing issues only for a new oil pump to fail. So far my r50 build has 31x*10.5r15 cooper adventurer A/T 15 inch lego wheels rockford fosegate p3 10" sony single din radio front rockford 6.5" speakers starlight headliner and blacked out headliner swapped out to some wood grain trim floor lights rear traffic adviser bar/chase bar cb radio and pa system rear amber/white lights side 4 inch pods-niglight-install in progress front 36 inch bar-niglight-install in progress front amber/white pods-niglight sfcreations 2.5/3" lift-install in progress mile marker hubs-in progress jchl tow strap 20,000 break x-bull 13,000lbs synthetic rope winch custom pipe bumper with front skidplate i will add some more photos of the bumper and winch when i get a chance. link to the drive folder with pictures

I’ll add to that. Bee running rear disc on my 97 for almost a year and they’re absolutely amazing

You can bypass it with a union, there was a post on it on here somewhere. The dampener is to assist with smooth shifts IIRC. First I would check the return spring on the pedal itself as well as bleeding the clutch fluid. I still have mine In place and have never had an issue. Just replaced a couple bad slave cylinders. If it were me I'd check everything else before hacking into it to bypass it.

Forums are definitely the right place to find information. I dare to say 90% of the people on the Facebook groups have zero idea about anything specific to the r50. It's all, "what lift, wheels, bumper, lights....?"

There are r50 sfd groups on Facebook and some write ups floating around the internet. Cal Rodriguez did a YouTube video installing his sfd that will give you a good idea. The SFD kit is subframe drop blocks strut spacers Engine mount blocks Longer panhard drop bracket Missing link lower control arm cross brace Mounting hardware Steering extension extended brake lines

It's amazing how messed up a VG can be and still run! Hopefully it goes as long as you need it to.

So, I pulled the original Z24 out from under my bench. This was a runner, but smokey when I swapped it almost 20 years ago. One piston (#3) had bad rings and ring lands. Bores however, cleaned up nicely with a hone. Waiting for parts now. Will get new pistons, rings, bearings, timing chain/tensioners, oil pump. Have a reco head here on the shelf. The KA24DE swap can wait for now.

This car just keeps on enduring. It's hardly been used since our son was born 18 months ago, so I listed it for sale. (I have a dual cab D22 now) My wife found out and told me I had to keep it, and in hindsight I see that she knew I wasn't ready to move her on. So, the old girl gets another reprieve. I am going to make a more concentrated effort to use and enjoy her, as well as fix a few of the small niggles that I have allowed to creep in.

There are couple or work arounds if you find the knock sensor is bad: 1) splice in a resistor but I don't remember which one, should be searchable, I did that as a quickie to pass smog 2) relocate the new knock sensor on top of the engine (which I did eventually) I think instructions searchable here as well.

Not sure how long the forum was down, but it was caused by a PHP error on the server. And a thanks goes out to @adamzan for bringing it to my attention.

More pics...