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Well, not pretty, but she's holding!

If it's one of the ones no under the intake it's easy, but for the ones under the intake, one of those connectors on the tree on the valve cover leads to the rest of them. If you check the FSM it will say which. I'm scared of the injectors on mine, I forgot to keep the ones on my parts truck before junking it, and it seems like they vanished from every parts supplier overnight?

Heck yeah thank you. If I can de-pin the plugs I was gonna do that. if I can survive me ECU repin then this is gonna be easy lol

It is my understanding that the Factory standard 3.3L injectors work, but have a different connector, and require an adapter of sorts, or maybe you can simply splice in the correct connector if you have no fear of butt-splices. There is a somewhat recent thread in here regarding that. See this thread:

The Frontier and Xterra (gen 1) are laid out the same way as a WD21. I have one of each so I can confirm this is true. It is the r50 VG33 Pathfinder that is different. The Fronty/X also use flat ribbed belts for all 3 while the r50 uses 2 flat belts and a v-belt for the PS (it is a weird setup). You could also have your pathfinder balancer machined to fit the VG33 crankshaft but I am not 100 percent sure this is possible or if there is enough meat on it to do that.

I just cut the hoses and replace them whenever I'm in there, which is not that often thankfully!

If you can find one of those adapters for the crank that mr510 made, or get one made yourself, you can run all the vg30 @!*% which makes it way easier. Otherwise you'll be adapting the VG33 accessories, at least the Xterra VG33 all the "stuff" is in the same spot.

ah slight miss understanding. I do leave the hoses connected to the throttle, what I meant is that the metal tubes under the intake, bolt to the intake which is why its so hard to remove those back 2 hoses. ill get a picture or video for you later tonight when I have time

well guess i need to front end swap my truck now lol https://imgur.com/a/PHAGX4v

just cut them like I do and its easy. if you unbolt the hoses from the plenum and on reinstallation don't put them back, it allows you to remove the plenum by just unbolting the throttle and not having to drain coolant next time. allowed me to reseal my injectors in 45 minutes with no headache on a SC!

(Oops, that was me, sorry, been meaning to update that post, with pictures, I'll get on it! But long story short, the VG33 injectors work, now I did also use the VG33 rail, so not 100% sure the VG33 injectors slide into the VG30 rail "injector bores", but I'm pretty sure the diameters are the same).

Maybe the final update: Fuel filter didn't do anything. It probably needed it anyway. I think I put the new one in about 12 years ago along with everything else I just swapped out. I pulled, partially, the upper intake and swapped out the No. 4 injector with a NEW one. Took it on another test drive and it ran flawlessly. OTOH, it ran flawlessly until it didn't when I took it for the 20mi test drive... I'll probably be driving it all next week, so that should be a good final test. Will let inquiring minds know

Howdy folks. SO this morning I pulled the sump off, and the filter. I then went about pulling the valve body out, and in doing so - i was gifted two pieces of metal that i strongly suspected came from inside the transmission I did a bit of youtubing, and found a great video of a fellow rebuilding the RE4R01A transmission - it goes for about an hour and is very in depth. As soon as he held up the new band he was installing - i knew what the pieces i found were from. So - it appears as though the issue is that one of the anchor points on the brake band has failed. This aligns with my son saying in the weeks leading up to the current problem, the transmission was slipping a bit. SO - from here i think the plan is going to be: Transmission out Visual inspection for rattle damage. Replace brake band overhaul and clean valve body. Reassemble transmission Reinstall transmission. Unless anyone has another theory, i feel fairly confident that the broken band anchor is the silver bullet. The magnet in the bottom of the trans was quite clean - especially given the km's on the car, so i feel fairly confident that there isnt alot of other internal damage - but the visual inspection is required to confirm. Not a great outcome - but happy i believe we have found the answer. CHeers.

My O2 ran lean bias for a long time I switched them and it cleaned up my idle issues. the wd21 only has 1 so its probably a fair chance its on its way out

If you want upgraded stainless flex hoses, 4x4parts.com has them. Otherwise rockauto or any auto parts store should be able to get OE rubber style.

I literally did this on my 92 MT last year. I don't know if I'm late to the party, but I wound up pulling my front axle in order to pull the oil pan and seal that up. It also made it significantly easier to replace the rear main unless you're not going to pull the assembly for the seal. I figured since I'm already into it, I might as well seal that up. It is 30 years old after all... I also had some missing and/or non-standard hardware that I replaced with OE appearing bolts vs the goofy ones found at the auto parts stores. To answer one of your questions on replacing the hardware; I would only do it to stuff that appears goobered up or where the threads are galled, and I would go to McMaster-Carr in order to try to find similar hardware to OE. They do carry JS spec hardware. That way you can eliminate the need for that oddball 9, 13, or 15mm bolt head/nut.

Yours is just stuck together with maple syrup, eh?

Guessing its been mentioned already, but check soft lines for signs of seeping and also expansion under pressure, or better yet, just replace them given the age. Although not on my Pathy, I've been in that battle where I was beating my head against the wall, until an old timer friend of mine suggested replacing them. And although my bank account argued extensively against it (I was young and very broke), I went ahead and bought replacements. And that seemingly trivial action solved my brake issues.

Thanks very much mate. This response was a great kick start for me. Much appreciated. I've got a copy of the manual, and have started diving in. I can see the B64 connector under the car, and will start by doing some resistance measurements on the solenoids. I agree that is seems odd that those three solenoids would "walk off the job" (I'll be using that saying again in the future" at the same time. Ive also confirmed through DataScan that the TPS is calibrated correctly - showing .5V when closed, and 4.0V at WOT - this is a known working TPS. Thanks again - and hopefully ill be able to report back soon with the fix.

I have no experience to add here, but some old posts from Mr. 510 suggest that they all interchange, with the possible exception of the WD21 starter not liking the VG33ER flexplate for some reason.

Are you looking for an upgrade to the adequate-but-not-great stock brakes, or has something happened that's got your brakes worse than they used to be? I had a knockdown dragout fight with the brakes on mine a while back. IIRC the master was leaking, so I replaced that and the rear flex hose between the frame and the axle, and the rear brakes just kinda quit working. I did a bunch of screwing around. Two-man bled, gravity bled, reverse bled, deleted the abs, put a 2WD Hardbody master in it (same piston size but no internal prop) with a Wilwood external prop because I didn't think the prop in the aftermarket Pathy masters was bleeding right, even replaced the booster. None of it helped. It bled normally, nothing was blocked, and the bleeders were at the top like they're meant to be. With the rear axle on jackstands, in drive, at idle, both feet on the brakes, the rears just spun. I was out of good ideas, so I bought a brake pressure gauge, blew out all the plumbing for the rears with compressed air, and tested pressure at each point down the line, bleeding at the gauge as I went. Right at the master, joiner in the driver's wheel well, where the ABS used to be, splitter at the rear axle. Might've put it at the caliper hoses too, don't remember if I had the fittings for that. The gauge showed full pressure every time (~1500 psi IIRC). With no obvious fault to chase, I hooked the calipers back up, bled them yet again, and somehow the rear brakes started working. I don't know why. All I can think is there was a gob of goo holding an air bubble in a union or something, which all of my prior bleeding had somehow failed to budge. I still hate everything about brake fluid. Hopefully yours is easier to deal with than mine was!

Yours lived longer than mine did! I have no idea what that metal thing is for. It looks like some engineering went into it, so clearly they expected it to do something. All I know is, I did not include it or replicate it when I fabricobbled a metal clamshell for mine, and my tilt works normally, so it must be something else. The weight may not be helping the clamshell, especially cantilevered out like it is, but I suspect it's got more to do with people whacking their knee on the bulge that the weight sits in. Well, that and the poor design of the screw posts.

Apparently they do interchange. I haven't done it but the wd22 and R50 using the VG have a smaller starter that is easier to replace.

The knock sensor in my '93 is wired the same as yours. Two terminals, only one pinned in the plug. The circuit diagram on EF&EC-99 agrees. The sensor must ground to the block. When I checked mine, chasing a knock sensor code, I did the same test on EF&EC-137, and like you I found no continuity. Annoyingly there isn't a spec for the sensor itself, but I noted that my old (bad) sensor read about 2 megohms across the terminals, and the new one read 558k ohms. The '97 manual specs 500-620k ohms, so the replacement was within that spec, for whatever that may be worth. If the knock sensor hears something that the computer doesn't like, the computer pulls timing (EF&EC-19). If the sensor circuit reads out of range, it'll set a code. EF&EC-23 says that if the code is set, it'll pull timing "according to operating conditions," which it does not elaborate on, so, . Mine seemed to get a little power back after I replaced the sensor, but that's just the butt dyno talking. I do not see anything in the manual suggesting that a knock condition (or a bad knock sensor) would change the fuel mixture. This means your rich condition is likely unrelated. I would suspect injectors (would be weird for all six to be bad, unless someone's previously swapped them for the cheap crappy ones that a few people on here have had trouble with), oxygen sensor (gets stuck reading "lean"), or coolant temp sensor. A bad temp sensor or corroded connector can tell the computer that the engine is much colder than it is, so it assumes higher air density than exists, and dumps too much fuel. I had a stumble just off idle and an intermittent failure to idle when warm on mine, which turned out to be the plug for the MAF. The sensor itself was OK, but the pins on the plug side were hogged out. Messing with the plug would clear it up for a while. I finally got sick of it and spliced in a new plug, and it hasn't done it since. I didn't notice any signs of a rich condition, though, and it ran fine so long as I didn't expect it to idle. Funny, I recently started my first rodeo with an EJ25. Timing belt/water pump/etc. Those valve covers look like fun.

Timing belt is done. The last time I changed it was 2012. I was surprised how good the belt looked. curious if anyone else bought the kit from Napa and had an issue with the water pump. The pump will mount, but the snout is too long. The water pump by itself was the same way. I had to order one from Oreilly’s. The water pump I did back in 2012 was purchased from Nissan. It was the same manufacturer as the one from Oreilly’s and Napa.

I would start with the troubleshooting for code 32, EF&EC-93. (Download the service manual from Nicoclub if you haven't yet!) Rule out the vacuum lines (just replace them if they're original!), the EGRC solenoid, the EGR valve, whatever else the manual says to check. IIRC my '95 had a short hose under the EGR-BPT (the UFO-looking diaphragm deal beside/above the EGR valve) that had burned through on the back side, so I'd check for that too. There's also a test for the temp sensor. EF&EC-135 says to test the sensor at 100*C/212*F. It should read 85.3k ohms (plus or minus 8.53 ohms) at that temperature. If it was open or shorted, it would be throwing code 35, but it is possible it's just drifted far enough off spec that it's lying to the computer. The temperature it reads corresponds to how much exhaust is flowing through the EGR valve (more exhaust = more heat), so if it's reading low, that could make the computer think the flow is lower than it's supposed to be, causing your code 32. The temp sensor lives in the dirtiest part of the engine. Unless it's crusted up on the tip of the sensor like the corn on a corn dog, I wouldn't expect the soot to insulate it enough to matter. Might be worth cleaning it if you go through the rest of the troubleshooting without success, or if you have it out anyway, but I'd be surprised if that was the problem. Carbon buildup in the valve and/or manifold could also be decreasing flow. I've heard of the EGR on the old TBI engines blocking itself up completely. I haven't heard of the multiport (what we've got) doing that, but the EGR port in the manifold on my '93 looked like those "this is what cholesterol does to your arteries" posters at the doctor's office the first time I had it apart. (It wasn't coding, but it's the earlier/federal-smog system, with no temperature sensor, so the computer would've had no idea.) The unplugged sensor makes me suspicious that the PO might've been tinkering. I've read that you can get away blocking off the EGR on the federal-emissions trucks, because they don't have the temp sensor. Perhaps the PO blocked the EGR (either to bandaid a bad EGR valve, or because racecar yo), the temp sensor ratted him out, he unplugged the temp sensor, that didn't magically fix it, and then he sold it to you rather than fix it properly. Good luck!

I've had a set of Michelin LT tires on my Pathfinder for TWENTY YEARS! Yes I know that's way too long to be riding on a set, but after about a hundred thousand miles, they still have lot of tread. I had a flat a couple days ago, and had to run on the flat for a couple hundred yards, and the tire actually started to break apart. So, let me tell you guys. Twenty years has got to be the absolute upper limit for the useful age of tires. The Michelin LT tires really are too heavy and hard for ride comfort, but they sure do last. They haven't required balancing for years, and were still smooth as could be on the highway. And of course, I certainly DO NOT recommend running a set for this many years.

Good lord. And here I thought I was pushing it at half that!

Here is something I ran across. It basically says some of what has been said here in so many different threads. It's nothing that will impress the guru's but is good general reading for the rest of us all in one article. Interesting notes include 25% more oil pressure by installing a 300zx oil pump (good for any engine rebuilders), why the 2 door pathy production stopped (F-ing government and lameass US auto makers) and has a nice schematic of the pathy rear suspension. Ok, enough of that... Take 5 minutes and read. http://www.off-road.com/nissan/ref01.html B Just scroll down a page or two for a repost...