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Not easy. Requires special tools to pull things apart and a press to put things back together.

Check out Car-part.com This will search all the yards around you Via distance. also if memory serves, look for an xterra rear differential. they are 33spline as well like the R50s

they're shaped differently so it may bolt on and work yes but it probably won't first the same in the vehicle. I can send picture of both my R50 and my brothers wd21 if needed

So I finally figured out what the issue was. It was the injectors. Not sure if a couple were plugged or what exactly. After replacing them, it idled like it was supposed to. Passed smog no problem. Thanks for everyone’s help.

SAS'd on portals! That thing isn't messing around.

LOL, Kamchatka is in a galaxy. far, far away. Nice ride for your conditions! I wish mine was a diesel.

Sorry about the late response! I think the leak is gone, or was never leaking from the valve covers to begin with. The gaskets were installed round-side down. I have to do them on my D22 pretty soon, I'll try to give more info then!

if you cared enough to try, the caliber bolt spacing measures the same if I remember correctly from 96-99 r50 they run 17MM bolt calibers and the 00-04 use the larger 19MM and larger rotors

EF&EC-88 of the '94 manual has the correct diagram. All that tells me is that the vehicle speed sensor is wired to the cluster, which is then wired to the computer, so an issue at the cluster would stop signal from reaching the computer. It says nothing about how it's wired inside the cluster, where the issue presumably is, if the speedo works and the odo does not. Annoyingly the description of the sensor (EF&EC-15) is copied from the square-dash manuals, and shows the older arrangement of a reed switch in a mechanical speedo, not an electronic speedo with a sensor in the transfer case. Guess they missed that when they updated from the square dash! Wonder how many people that's tripped up. I did notice the round-dash cluster from my parts car (which I was told had an inop odometer) had cracked solder joints where the little stepper motor for the mechanical odometer was connected up. By the time I noticed this, the parts truck was torn apart far enough that I couldn't test the resoldered cluster, so I can't be certain the cracked joints were the only problem. But yeah, if it acts up again, that's where I'd start looking. IIRC I had to tear it down all the way to the instrument itself to find the fault--it wasn't on the flexy board on the back. Bit fiddly to get the cluster apart, but doable. Be real careful with the clips, especially for the clear part.