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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/27/2021 in all areas

  1. Just hit the big 300 mark
    7 points
  2. Escaped to the woods again this last weekend.
    5 points
  3. We remounted it after I finally installed my winch & cube lights. I genuinely can’t thank@TowndawgR50 enough. While it may look the same at first glance, it’s incredibly more solid. Additionally, all the edges are rounded & smooth. It actually feels beautiful to the hand. A little behind the scenes of what goes on at @spinestopinesoffroad Tiger Mountain Test Lab. It’s worth noting that this is the kind of care, skill & perfectionism that makes up their DNA. It’s just one of the many reasons I rely on the two of them for their sage advice regarding modifications of any substance.
    5 points
  4. Got to Tillamook for a short while this morning. Or looking for Elsa as my 4 year old says. It’s the only way I can convince her to come with
    5 points
  5. Well, there it is. With the un-ceasing oil consumption of my R50, I have decided to move onto a different platform while the pathfinder is still worth something. I have alot of love for this community, and will continue to stay in touch, especially on youtube and instagram. But, I started on NPORA, and I'm grateful for the resource that this forum is. It's put me in touch with alot of great people. I'll miss you guys This is my replacement, a single owner 2001 4x4 V8 Tundra. I suppose I've joined @mjotrainbrain by hopping from the R50 to a toyota 4.7.
    5 points
  6. Some trucks are just bigger than others Garage day with [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention]
    4 points
  7. Yeah, Whistler is a good 4.5 hours from be but it's a wonderful drive. If you stay the night or three it's a great little trip. My local mountain in the summer is 40 minutes and in the winter is closer to an hour most days. If you've never been, you should. All riders at some point should make their way to Mecca. I decided that I'd be fine to do it over multiple days if I took some pictures, labelled everything, and laid out everything on my clean garage floor on old beach towels in order it came out. The main reason is that it became apparent that I both wouldn't be capable of doing it all in a day as I kept adding tasks, and we are getting a two week heat wave of 44 degrees celcius plus for a while (over 110 for you guys)- meaning I only want to work on it from like 7:30 to 10 in the mornings and then in evenings. Anyway I'm done one of the two valve cover gaskets as of this morning, same with the PCV valve, and the coolant hose leading to the water control valve. As Slartibartfast hinted at, the spark plug tube o-rings don't appear to be rebuildable (the guy at the parts store was surprised when the valve cover gaskets didn't come with em'), but it's fine cause they appear to be in great shape. I'm quite pleased with myself that I didn't have to move the absolute mess of wires to do this, so thanks for the tips Slartibartfast because its sure easier with all this other junk outa the way. I'm pleased to report that all 12 power valve screws were there. They've been cleaned and secured with red locktite. The ones closer to the front of the engine were very, very light to remove whereas the backs felt substantially harder. There was some old looking something on the threads, so it looks like I didn't have one of the affected vehicles.
    4 points
  8. My son and I took the Pathfinder out the other day for its first adventure. We met my friends in Packwood WA and joined them on section 2 and the start of section 3 of the BDR. The rig did fantastic keeping up with the newer Tacos that my friends were driving. Bethel Ridge is amazing and there were tons on breathtaking views around every corner. Bethel Ridge Lions Rock My son brought his RC rock crawler to join in the fun.
    3 points
  9. All in all I’m pretty pleased with how it turned out. If anyone else decides to go this route definitely invest in the better upol spray gun. It is adjustable from a heavy texture to super fine and has better coverage. I chose to go with a finer texture on mine and I love the way it turned out. It is super durable and withstands pinstriping from bushes abs branches. The great part about raptor liner is that it is super heavy/thick so there’s not a whole lot of overspray and doesn’t atomize into the air. It also dries really quickly and I was able to start putting parts back on after a couple of hours of putting on the last coat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    3 points
  10. Those Toyota 4Runner TRD take offs look great on the R50. I trialed them on mine & was surprised how sharp they looked.
    3 points
  11. Transformation - thanks to@TowndawgR50
    3 points
  12. Been a bit busy (bloody flat out more like it) but I am making some slow progress between home renovations, new job, lockdowns and other car projects. Pulled the trans Transfer off And Glitter bomb!!! Took a few weeks to get down to Melbourne to pick up the replacement trans. All back together now just waiting on a new trans mount, and a break in the weather! Stay safe all
    3 points
  13. Nice! Replacement part arrived and I'm riding with AC again like some sort of rich dude or something.
    3 points
  14. Camping over the weekend
    3 points
  15. A long overdue update for the Pathfinder build. I finally gave up on the vinyl wrap a few months ago and decided on a new route for the exterior. My rig had so many imperfections and a large area of peeling clearcoat around the quarter panel that caused the vinyl not to adhere too well. It did look decent from far away but I couldn’t stand seeing it up close. So I decided I was going to change the exterior completely and raptor liner the whole thing. I had already purchased black raptor liner a while back for the fender flares and rear bumper. I decided on charcoal grey metallic for the rest of the body. Sanded and prepped First coat 2 coats and a final “dust” coat Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk lol
    2 points
  16. Man, with the bumper and the wheels I bet a lot of people don't look too close and compliment you on your 4runner all the time.
    2 points
  17. It's good to see some of my old, favorite parts get a second life: @ferrariowner123's, now @micahfelker's pathfinder stopped by this weekend to swap me headlights and grilles. Arguably, the BX Built lights and my Honeycomb grill both look better on his facelift swapped '96 than they ever did on my 03.
    2 points
  18. How my truck spent it’s winter vacation. Also - a warning regarding second hand bumpers.[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] has been looking at my bumper for over a year & the perfectionist in him just couldn’t stand it. After Christmas this year we took it off & he had at it - uncovering problem after problem.
    2 points
  19. Matching our shoes with a cool trail and camping in Big Bear.
    2 points
  20. This is a common issue with the RE4R01A transmissions in these rigs. The reverse clutch-pack snapring is likely broken. Requires a rebuild or replacement.
    2 points
  21. The Toyota guys are going to get a fantastic member. PathyDude17 has definitely an asset to the r50 community.
    2 points
  22. We're sure you've noticed that the forum page loading times have increased lately, in our efforts to identify the cause and remedy this issue the software was upgraded to the the latest version two days ago.... then the very next day another update was released ... which resulted in another updated for our community. If you logged in and received the updating notification page, this is why. Since we are continuing to work on the issue, temporary outages could occur again... Once this has been resolved will work to restore the visual and functional features of the forum. We thank you for your patience while we work through this issue.
    2 points
  23. OK - fluids and filter swaps are done, except a brake bleed. A bunch of the fluids were in surprisingly good condition for a vehicle of this mileage, especially because the last guy said he didn't really do a whole lot other than coolant and oil. Additionally after spending some time underneath, I'm not convinced the transmission pan (at least) is original because it looks in waaaaaaay better shape than anything else under there. Additionally, I'll have to chuck on the back third of an exhaust if the vehicle does well in the beat down month. On to the big one next - power valve screws, various gaskets, and the PCV valve. I'm going to wait until I think I can get it all done in a single day so there's less risk of chimping out and forgetting stuff while asleep. Might be hard because our bike park opened up last weekend and that's where I was for most of this one...
    2 points
  24. Saracha Mayo, that stuff is the bomb! The front end in your Pathfinder and paint in general is immaculate btw! Looks like it rolled right out of the factory Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  25. It’s hard to explain the texture that I got. It’s rough but smooth at the same time. If I ran a towel over the paint it would not snag anything if that makes sense. I don’t know how well if mine will hold up over time since it lives under a fairly large pine tree courtesy of my neighbor [emoji23]. You’re right about the 2K part and hopefully that will hold up over time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  26. If you own a compressor i would spray it. People have sprayed it outside in makeshift tents or just a canopy and turns out great. Bugs and dust doesn’t affect it after it’s all cured. Also the raptor liner is great at hiding any dings and imperfections. Prep is the key to it all though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  27. Made the front diff plate a little more badass looking, tried to make chrome flames coming out of the bolt holes but I made the stencils a bit too small. All powdercoat Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  28. Awesome good to know!
    1 point
  29. Finally showed up and got er installed. Next stop, the beach!
    1 point
  30. Yep, 4Runner guys are hot to buy the Pro wheels & the market gets flooded with the TRD Off-Road wheels for cheap since there’s little to no demand. Toyota’s too cheap to provide a matching spare so I bought a set & broke it up amongst 4 TRD Off-Roads that were keeping their OEM wheels & wanted to replace the spare steelie. My FJ 8Holes came off an FJ that put TRD Off-Road take offs on (he also took one of the spares).
    1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. those should be fine. amazon has some but not all
    1 point
  33. Well pulled some calipers of out the junkyard over the weekend, When I made the template I should of put a slight curvature on the lettering in hindsight. I’m overall pretty happy with them Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  34. Arizona’s volcanic rocks are sharp & extremely tough on tires. Even the AZ dust is sharp & will score your glass & plastic - my truck still has scars from its time there. I’ve done trails in every Western State & AZ is uniquely hazardous.
    1 point
  35. The nice thing about a godawful leak is it'll have a hard time hiding when you go looking for it. Hopefully you don't have to dig too far to get to it. I don't know the R50 dash, but I had to disconnect my evap core to get its box out from under the dash in my '93. I could almost get the bottom off the box without removing the core, but there were two metal clips holding the back of the box together that I just couldn't get to. My aircon's dead anyway, so out it came. It wasn't pretty in there. I had vacuumed most of the chunks out already, but the styrofoam had stuff growing on it, mice had crapped in there because of course they had, and the core was packed with mud and pine needles.
    1 point
  36. check for tiny nissan logo on boots
    1 point
  37. Hancock lake. Seriously beautiful spot, I’d highly recommend it
    1 point
  38. As others have said you've left a strong legacy with the R50 community. I can't thank you enough for helping me get mine to where it is with both your videos & helpful insights on NPORA, the FB groups, and the comment section of your videos. I'm excited to see the Yota in action.
    1 point
  39. I don't know R50 HVAC, but I would be suspicious of the control unit (the potentiometer that the knob turns might be bad and only register when it's all the way to one side), or the actuator (its pot or wipers or whatever it's got might be borked to where it thinks full hot is just barely off cold). If it's got an air temp sensor, I'd check that too, but that looks like manual control--I would expect the actuator to move with the knob without other feedback (but like I said, it's not a system I've worked with). Download the '96 service manual off Nicoclub and see what it's got for troubleshooting the HVAC system. Hopefully the vent selector issue is at the control unit end. I would take the center of the dash apart, get the HVAC head loose enough to see the cable, and see if it moves when you move the knob. If it does, your issue's deeper behind the dash.
    1 point
  40. That looks really good!
    1 point
  41. That's badass! I want one!
    1 point
  42. Yeah the Yota gang is definitely winning on this one, I'm sure Tyler will be teaching me things about my car before I know it! Sad to see yet another R50 owner go, but at least you've left a strong legacy of helpful information though your YouTube videos. Reading through the comments and being on a FB page I've seen lots of evidence of your impact on this community.
    1 point
  43. Damn, that sucks. At least you know one more thing it isn't! I'd pull the box and see if it's got a tight spot if you spin it by hand. That plate on the front of the box comes off, so you could open it up, wipe some of the grease out, and check the gears for broken teeth or something jammed in between them. Does seem like it's gotta be the box at this point, but it would suck to go down the rathole of which box will fit, and swap it, and still have that damn pop. Not sure about the year range for the box. There might be something in the SDS at the end of the ST section of the service manual listing the ratio, though I doubt it would give you anything regarding the spline count. I would check whether the joints are the same for other years. If they are, you know the spline counts didn't change, even if the gearbox itself was revised for some reason. The one on my shelf has a 28 spline input and output, same diameter (same joint fits either side). 1:1 gear ratio. Marked NSK, L (presumably short for LHD), and 0033 down by the gasket line. Looks like the one in your wrecker picture, except it's not borked. Dunno if that helps.
    1 point
  44. Whistler? I hardly know her! Sun Peaks. I used to get to Whistler a couple times a season pre covid but the lines are too dang long these days. Year before COVID I did 11 days there and a bunch at Sun Peaks, and a couple at Silver Star. Last summer and this summer is all local park until things quiet down in the fall.
    1 point
  45. Sounds like you have a short somewhere.. TPS and speed sensor are the usual culprits but I would think they would throw codes. Don't have any other ideas to help.
    1 point
  46. PCV's a good idea while you're in there, just because you'd have to pull the same stuff apart to get to it later if it went wrong. I would do the valve cover gaskets as well, for the same reason. IIRC there are different types of valve cover on different years of VQs, and some aren't rebuildable, so look into that. IIRC there's a coolant tube between the heads on the back of the engine that leaks sometimes, look into that too while the intake's out of the way. Be careful cleaning the throttle body. I've read that the drive-by-wire freaks out and refuses to re-learn if the TB goes from gunked up to clean all at once. The solution I've read is to clean it a bit at a time so the computer sees multiple small changes and ignores them instead of freaking out about one big change. Sounds like a PITA, but less so than dealing with a computer tantrum. While you''re doing the trans fluid, consider an aux cooler while you're at it. I added a cooler and an external filter to mine when I did the fluid in hopes of making it live a little longer. Keep an eye on the oil level while you're doing your shakedown. If you haven't yet, check out the Pines to Spines SFD lift kit. It's low-volume/limited availability at the moment, but if you want more than a couple inches of lift without killing the CV joints, that's what you want. LOL, my dad's was "Sahara Sand." Also brown. And Nissan's not the only company in denial--Honda called my mom's brown CRV "Urban Titanium." I guess the marketing department has to look busy.
    1 point
  47. Beautiful spot along the Deschutes River in Central Oregon
    1 point
  48. Hi, like the look of that Bull bar. I am looking at fitting an Opposite Lock bar to my 2007 R51but I am bloody confused as to which one fits! The instructions with the bar supplied to me says D40 Navara 2010 on and Pathfinder R51 but I don't know whether that means all R51's or just 2010 on. Did you come across this when you installed your bar?
    1 point
  49. Hi all - has been quite a while between posts/updates. Some health issues (heart) had put all on hold for quite a while. Am getting back to the build and, after the completion of the engine overhaul, got all back in and am closing out on some final areas. As part of this, I am removing most of the anti pollution gear, trying to simplify the vacuum lines and also fitting the Redline Weber kit. That has all progressed reasonably well apart from some connections not being clear as to what goes where and what can be deleted/capped. I made various sketches and notes when I dismantled but am no finding that some of the component markings have been lost in cleaning and handling. In working through the pollution gear, I have been using the other excellent write ups on the forum although ones specific to the VG30i are few and far between. So, with all of that, I was hoping to get some advice/clarity on the following - numbers reference in the pic - tried uploading the pic but am getting message saying I can t upload. Hopefully this link will work - goes to same pic in shared dropbox file. https://1drv.ms/u/s!ArhBM0TeWGIago8uxSJwDKmMOe_snQ?e=achdZt : 1. Is a vacuum line under left side of carbie. I believe this goes up to the purge connector on the canister but, if not, is this OK to cap or should it connect to somewhere else? 2. I believe this is a loop connection to the AB valve on the air cleaner. Can this be capped when I remove the AB valve or something else? 3. I wasn't sure on what this one was, whether vacuum or coolant (currently radiator/coolant is dry so wanted to sort before filling up fluids). If coolant, where is this leading to for connection? If vacuum, OK to cap? If the pipe from 1 in the pic doesn't go t the purge connection on the canister, where does the purge line connect? As the TBI has been swapped to the weber, very limited vacuum line connections now. And the really strange one, underneath the front (drivers side here in Oz) are the metal fuel lines that come up the filter and return and, while they are all OK, in the same group is another steel line that departs this group and then goes across the front cross member to about mid way with right angle bend and then an end that looks like a flared end but a few mm back from the end of the [pipe, suggesting a rubber pipe connects to the pipe. The breather line from the fuel tank is connected and is connected to the cannister already so doesn't appear to be mixed with that. Am hoping to get a pic of this one on this coming weekend as well as try chasing it back along the length of the terrano underneath. Sorry for the long list of questions but i am really hopeful that some sage advice will be forthcoming and avoid me contemplating putting a match to it from frustration Thanks in advance to all
    1 point
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