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  1. For sure you'd need an older #1 coil. For the other coils: 2a: It's possible to swap the boots older-->newer, but you also need the spring 2b: You'd need to lengthen the boots, which would prevent spark plug contact, so this is a no-go. 2c: Since the older coils were intended for the older covers (aluminum), this is the most correct route. That's what the guy did in that Nico post (man...I barely had the truck 2 years when I was chiming in on that...how things have changed). That said, I did some R&D for you... Newer coil on left, older on right. When aligned by the mounting tabs, the older is about 1/2" longer. When aligned by boot length, they are the same length. The older coil's mounting tab sits above the plastic valve covers mounting hole by 1/2". As mentioned earlier, you can probably still fit the newer style in cylinders 2-6, but the coil has to be turned enough to avoid the mounting boss on the aluminum covers. You could possibly use a screw and washer in the boss to retain the coil to some degree. Taken apart, you can see all the parts are different. Although the spring in the older unit is quite longer, it sits deeper in the hole in the module. All the tube parts are shaped differently enough that fitment isn't great if you were to swap things around, but it's somewhat possible. With springs in and aligned by mounting tab, the older coil is still 1/2" longer. If you put the older style boot and older spring onto the newer style module, the boot fits nicely and everything else seems to be the correct length and position. Not that it matters here, but the newer boot will not fit the older module unless the top of the boot is cut off. Now, since the springs are different, I have no idea what impact it has switching it. I also don't know if you can get the boots and springs. I'd say that if you're at a junk yard and pulling them, you may as well just buy the complete coils. Although my personal opinion is that the additional cost to do this project doesn't really have much ROI, unless it's just cheaper than buying new plastic covers. Hope this helps.
    3 points
  2. Some good progress yesterday and today! Nothing major, but big little steps, so to speak. Yesterday drilled some holes in the chassis rail to mount up the steering box so I could confirm fitment. Box is a little closer to the wheel well than I had mocked up, but still clears fine. Box is rigged in there with some spacers for the time being until I get all the plate work designed out and the bolt sleeves in hand. With box temporarily attached, I was able to measure up for the steering link and get to chopping the R50 and WJ units. The WJ shaft normally has about 10" of slip, but in it's reduced form now only has about 2.5". I couldn't really get more because I needed to keep enough round tube at the end for the splined end from the R50 shaft...but since the R50 shaft also tapers down, that piece also needed to retain enough length. Total shaft length ends up around 16". The R50 shaft OD is about 1/16" smaller than the WJ shaft ID, so I hammered some 1/32" washers around the shaft, tacked them on, smoothed them out, and ended up with a nice friction fit that also kept the splined end centered nicely. Main thing here was remembering to align the flat part in the spline upwards and perpendicular to the flat sides of the WJ shaft. Also got around to chopping off the leaf spring perches on the axle, since they obstruct where I'll need to mount the FJ radius arms. The passenger side wasn't too bad since it was just a cast piece welded to the tube. The driver's side perch, on the other hand, is cast into the housing but fortunately wasn't too bad. Attacked it with a cut-off wheel and my cheap HF sawzall. Still need to measure up the arms and design some brackets. Shipped up the D44 hubs to Towndawg for his magic touch. They've got a fancy industrial CNC machine at work that will be making the tone rings, so I'm excited to see how that turns out and getting them onto the modified hubs so I can work on the backing plate for the calipers and ABS sensor. He's also going to turn some custom hub adapters that'll support the 108mm rotor and a wheel spacer up to 1.5" (I plan to run the 1" I already have), and then narrow down to 100mm for Nissan wheels.
    2 points
  3. Whoops! I'm an idiot. I've still got you covered. Pull the kick panel under the dash, then pull out the foam in there and you'll find the hose tucked back in there.
    2 points
  4. Hey guys I just picked up a 2002 QX4 with sunroof, two tone, no heated seats or steering wheel, and I don’t think it has a LSD Other than a blower motor I did once upon a long time ago, this is my first experience with a R50! Im excited. Not much experience with Japanese autos. Mostly German. excited to drive my Pathfinder/QX4 to work, with my very young son, to the recycling dump, and whatever else. Will try to keep it in the family for as long as I can. Hopefully, Lord willing, not too many hiccups along the way! I found the forum while looking for creature comfort mods. What is everyone doing for infotainment?
    1 point
  5. I'll bet this is a quirk of the Ackermann angle. When you're turning, both front wheels follow curved paths, but the inside wheel follows a tighter curve, so it has to steer sharper. The geometry to make this happen is built into the knuckles (where the tie rod attaches vs where the knuckle pivots). The farther you turn, the more the Ackermann kicks in. This also means that any error in the geometry will show up more the farther you're turned. Anything suspension-related tends to be at its worst at the limits of its travel anyway. I'm guessing the steering angles at full lock don't quite agree on how tight of a turn you're taking, which means one wheel or the other has to slip, which is more dramatic on the polished concrete than it is on normal road surfaces. Strato's wheel offset is an interesting wrinkle to this. Changing the offset wouldn't change the angles, but it would change the curve of the paths they're on--evidently enough to get them closer to where the wheels are pointing. Now that I'm thinking about it, I don't think I've ever driven mine in a parking garage, but I have noticed that it disturbs gravel more at full lock. Probably the same thing going on. In any case, Ackermann is not adjustable (apart from racecar stuff), so I'd file this one under It Just Does That. It's also possible I'm full of crap. But if you're not in 4x, then it's not torque binding. If a tire was hitting something in the wheel well, which would make sense with it only happening at full lock, I imagine you would've noticed the noise or seen the shiny spot. I've heard of the rear limited slip chattering if it's got the wrong lube in it, but I wouldn't expect that to only happen when you're against the steering stops.
    1 point
  6. My Xterra has done this forever... I think it is a normalish thing for solid axle part time 4wd vehicles.
    1 point
  7. Not sure how long the forum was down, but it was caused by a PHP error on the server. And a thanks goes out to @adamzan for bringing it to my attention.
    1 point
  8. I'm going to say this is normal because my parents are the original owners of my 97, and when I started driving it my dad always warned me about taking corners too fast for that reason. Since getting some Offset wheels and the lift there is no more of this wheel hop at all. My dad would say it was always on the right hand turns it would hop the most for him.
    1 point
  9. I recommend having your Alternator and battery tested. Chris
    1 point
  10. No progress today, but yesterday I felt confident enough in axle placement to cut up my last piece of tubing for the drag link, so now I can talk about the steering setup. The approach here is what the SAS community calls "GM 1-ton TREs". Several 4wd shops sell these kits as "Y-Link" setups. Since this axle came with a Heim kit that was mostly welded up (drag link was ready to be cut to length), I'm just using the tubing but cut the pieces in a manner that retained some length with the bungs previously welded in (project foreshadowing: looks like I'm making Heim jointed upper trailing arms when I focus on the rear axle). The tubing is 1.5" OD x 0.250" wall...it's beefy. The TREs have 1" shafts, so they're beefy, too. I used the following SKP parts from Rock Auto: Tie rod: SES2233L & SES2234R Drag link: SES2027L & SES2026R TREs ran about $28 for all before tax/shipping, and then another $30 for LH/RH threaded bungs and jam nuts off a shop on ebay. Also needed a 1.5" TPF (taper per foot) or 7° reamer, which ran another $77. The reamer is necessary because the 2233L piece and the pitman arm need to be reamed out. The nice part about this is spares are cheap and easy to obtain, but one part does need to be reamed beforehand. The end result: Drag link's at about 6°, which is not too bad. Currently projecting (aiming for) 4" of up-travel, and this position is good enough to keep the tie rod off the pitman joint, and that's really about the only constraint I needed to be mindful of this. There's otherwise plenty of clearance; next closest thing is the drag link below the oil filter, but still ample space. Hidden in that last pic is a very crude placement of the PHB, which should fit really nicely in there. The drag link ended up being 37" center-center, and the PHB will be at 33". I couldn't find much info about the effect of differing lengths, but should be easily to keep them parallel. The PHB is from a JK Wrangler and has hump/kickout for diff cover clearance. The first pic also has the FJ arm wired up. I'm pretty satisfied with the angles and planned placement. Just need to get the plates CAD'd up and cut. Hard to tell with the angle, but the rear eye is just inboard of chassis rail, so it fortunately won't have a big cantilever. Figuring to weld on brackets for the mounts, with a middle removable crossmember. I'm stalled a little on progress because I'm not liking how I've got the engine slung up. Having the support bar at an angle causes the legs on the passenger side to be lower than the driver's side, which is cause the engine to be supported a little crooked. I realized this when I attempted to reinstall the subframe so I could confirm the engine was at the correct height (my decision to do this ended up being a terrible one...installing the subframe was far more difficult than removing it). The real problem is Nissan failing to put any reasonable sling points on the engine. I can't even wrap a strap under the engine without fear of it crushing a tube, or bending something. I mean, the KA in my Frontier already has slingers attached...from the factory...and you could pull that engine out with crowbar. The VQ points are ridiculous obnoxious and inaccessible...not to mention basically requiring genuine Nissan slingers that don't exist (and wouldn't do me any good anyway). So, I'm trying to make slingers I can leave attached for future use. The driver's side is done. The passenger side has been a total ishtshow. I can't even remove the RH bracket to weld something because half the bolts are obstructed by the exhaust manifold. After a couple hours of ideas and measurements, I think I have a plan of attack, which I'll make tomorrow and get the engine re-slung.
    1 point
  11. I have learned a great deal from watching Eric O of SMA, kind of funny I'm currently watching a video of him troubleshooting an ABS issue and making an educated guess. If you ask me it's right in sync with the issue at hand that we are having with our R50's. So Unfortunately I was not able to clean my OEM MAF Sensor because I was not able to locate any MAF cleaner at the local parts stores(they were all sold out for some strange reason). I guess you can say that my OEM MAF Sensor was no longer serviceable due to a rusty and stripped-out screw, so I would not have been able to remove it from the housing to thoroughly clean it anyway so I just replaced it with the new sensor and housing I ordered. From what I could see through the mesh on the front of the old MAF housing the filament was indeed dirty, so long story short it seems to have fixed my stumbling idle issues, and my R50 idles smooth again. The replacement MAF now reads closer to 3.5 g/s once the engine has reached operating temp vs the previous 2.97 g/s with the old MAF Sensor, I would also like to mention that I now have better acceleration too, and the fuel trims are slowly working their way back down. So If you tried cleaning your MAF and that didn't correct the issue just replace it. Here's a picture of my OEM MAF Sensor and housing. Respectfully your R50 rough idle and poor fuel economy "Guinea Pig" https://imgur.com/a/O5RxWIk Chris.
    1 point
  12. I'm running Jeg's 16x8 steelies. It has a bit more offset though. Part number 555-681034 (Less than $80 right now) JEGS 555-681034 D Window Wheel [Size: 16" x 8"] Black - JEGS Size: 16" x 8" Bolt Pattern: 6 x 5.50" Back Spacing: 4.00" Offset: -12 mm Center Bore: 4.25 I ran 265 65r16 tires on them. Without a lift, they stick out and they won't tuck in the fenders during flexing and if you bottom out, the tire rubs in the back. If you're lifted, then they tuck in the fenders when flexing.
    1 point
  13. Screw and two clips, though be careful as there’s a clip in the center of the panel piece…if any plastic is going to break off, it’ll be at that point. At least that’s how it seemed on mine.
    1 point
  14. Sounds like you're on the right track. I saw in an SMA video a while back that g/s at warm idle is usually close to the engine displacement, which agrees with your old 3.5g/s reading. A messed-up sensor would explain the trims and the g/s being off. Good luck cleaning the old MAF--and good thinking having a new one on hand.
    1 point
  15. This looks great. Any updates? There aren't too many SAS r50 around and most of them seem to be hack jobs. Of course knowing you, yours will be the outlier!
    1 point
  16. I haven't cleaned my maf sensor yet, but I was looking at some live data on my scan tool and at first I was seeing a little over 3.5 g/s at idle now I'm seeing 2.97 g/s consistently. So I think we might be on the right path regarding your under-reporting hypothesis. My fuel trims are extremely high as well, I'm currently averaging about 200 miles per tank prior to this issue I was averaging about 280 miles per tank. I ordered a new maf sensor, but before I swap it out I'm gonna try cleaning the OEM one and report back with my findings. Chris.
    1 point
  17. I played it dangerous and wiped the actual elements. They're delicate, but they're not made of cotton candy, and they're pretty easy to get to on mine. I think you're supposed to just blast them with MAF cleaner, but either I didn't have the right stuff handy or the gunk wasn't budging, so I very gently wiped off the rest. Anything that insulates them will cause the sensor to under-report. Given the limited access on yours, I'd be tempted to see what the ultrasonic cleaner would do about it. Too bad about the smoke machine. Maybe try a lower oil level? I used a proper shop one once, and was not a fan of the smell, but it did work pretty well. Does seem a bit odd to be fogging the engine with glycerine, but I haven't heard of it causing problems.
    1 point
  18. The last few days have largely been spent measuring and CAD'ing things. Latest efforts have been towards designing the plate work on the driver's side chassis rail in the engine bay. In general, I'll plate the top, side, and bottom of the rail about 24" to provide the provisions for the steering box, panhard mount, motor mount perch, and bump stops/limit straps. The passenger side will be different since I only need a plate with provisions for the motor mount perch and bump/limit components. This plate will be bolt on, though. There's vast difference in working space between the LH and RH sides of the rail. I'd have to tear down the engine further (coolant pipes, exhaust manifold) to have better top access, but then there's still an AC line right on top of the rail that I'm not going to relocate or weld around...can't even slip 3/16" plate under it. But, I have a good bolt-on plan. Speaking of motor mounts, I finally welded up a poly set. This will be the gear box placement. Hard to see with shadows, but there's clearance at all points so zero need to cut the wheel well. Placement is 1.25" above the rail, and 0.5" off it. The rail tapers in that area so my plating approach will also square it up. However, this placement will have the metal edge of the radiator right up to it and obstructs the fan shroud. The radiator will be moved 1/2" over and planning to heat the fan shroud up and reshape it. I also forgot to mock this up with the airbox initially, but it cleared just enough. The high pressure line will be routed under the engine. Should work great because it'll be tucked up with other oil lines, is within reach of the pressure sensor, and the pump's OE hardline already points downward in that direction (assuming I can use part of the OE line). Reamed out a tie-rod and the pitman to accept the larger GM TREs. That was sucky process, but it got done. This is one thing where I need to keep in mind that some trail spares need to be modified in advance. Work on the brakes and ABS design still a work in progress. I discovered the R50 calipers mount a lot closer to the hub center than I thought they would...my initial (mis)calculation showed me they'd be fully obstructed, so I had a small panic until I realized I used the wrong measurement in my math. Still, fitment is tight. Going with 4th Gen 4Runner rotors (also FJ Cruiser and 05+ Tacoma) instead. Same nominal thickness as R50 and H3 (28mm), but slightly larger diameter than H3 (300mm vs 315mm vs 319mm). I'll take any additional clearance I can get. Plus, I figure there will be more support for Toy parts in the long run...or in my case, more RockAuto clearance options. But, before I could pull the trigger on returning the H3 rotors and buying the 4R ones, I fired up the CNC router to make a bracket to visualize the general placement. This isn't the exact depth the caliper (it is the exact distance outward it will be), just a general placement so I could confirm things clear. That's right: I can wear sandals in my garage during the winters here. Though, I do wear steel-toed shoes for projects like this. Saw one thread of a guy SAS'ing his Tacoma...he dropped a Dana 60 on his big toe. "¡Adios!" - toenail. I don't know the physics behind caliper placement, but my understanding is it matters. The R50 and D44 calipers are mounted higher, but I have obvious constraints here. The mock-up put them vertically, but I should be able to rotate them up a few more degrees. The main problem with doing these brake mockups is that can't fit the rotors until the hub is turned down to fit inside the rotors (D44 brakes normally mount to the back of the hub). Fortunately, unlike the H3 rotor, I was able to attach the 4R rotor to the backside so I could good reference distances. I'll need to go a slightly different direction for the tone ring. New plan is to make larger tone rings that'll move the sensor up and out, but also avoid taking too much meat off the hub, particularly where it'd overlap where the inner bear race is installed. The general idea:
    1 point
  19. A screwed-up mixture might've damaged the cats, or it might just be confusing the sensors, but if the cats were clogged, I don't think a low idle would be your only symptom. I would focus on figuring out the low idle/misfire issue and see if the cat codes go away once the engine is running properly again.
    1 point
  20. Best bet is to rebuild an oem one. Check out this post, there's a couple attachments there with great DIY write ups https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads/distributor-rebuild-on-the-cheap-for-1st-gen-nissan-frontier-xterra.350719/
    1 point
  21. Not sure my recent woes align with this, but I had multiple air leaks at the o-rings on my fuel injectors due to them being slightly undersized (seemingly my mistake). The excess air would eventually cause the engine to stumble every 30s, regardless of gear selection. RPMs would drop to 600 and engine would run rough. I've also been throwing a P0430, but it's been deemed unrelated to my issues. I threw P0507 and P0171 codes previously, which are what suggested a leak. Dropped $80 on a smoke machine from Amazon and it exploited the issue. The economy is in crisis when baby oil is $10. I also initially thought my issues were alternator related. The original one crapped out back in June and I slapped a cheap replacement in. I had never noticed an issue before the new alternator (I had serviced the injectors a year before), but I have one of those voltmeter pods and it indicated things were healthy (around 14.3V engine running). It sometimes see the voltage drop when the engine stumbled, so had concerns of what was causing what...was bad alternator causing the engine to stumble, or was the engine stumbling causing the voltage to drop? In the end, alternator was not the problem. Other things I had done: Cleaned/moved around plugs, coil packs. Swapped/cleaned MAF (they have aerosol cleaners at parts stores) Checked compression Idle relearn Throttle position relearn PCV check Throttle body clean Obviously none of the above solved anything, but looks like you've done most of those. May be time to check for leaks.
    1 point
  22. The '02 manual does not spec an idle speed in gear, but in park or neutral, it wants to see 750 +/- 50 if the aircon's off, 825+ if it's on. Sounds like yours is working. Every auto I've driven idles a little lower in gear, so while I don't have a spec for that, I'm inclined to call it normal. Turning on electrical loads or working the steering loads the engine, so it makes sense it's dipping a little more under those conditions. The vibration/stumbling under load, while it's still pretty close to its target RPM, makes me suspect a mixture issue. MrElCocko may be on the right track with the MAF sensor. Yours sounds a bit like how my '93 behaved when the MAF sensor connector was worn out. Sometimes it would idle low at lights, sometimes it would surge, sometimes it would stall completely unless I shifted to neutral or drove with both feet. Wiggling the connector would clear it up for a while. Finally I got around to replacing the connector, and haven't had a problem since. I don't know if the R50 suffers from the same issue, but I would check that the plug feels tight and the sensor is clean. If that checks out, check for cracks in the boot between the MAF and the throttle body, and check for vacuum leaks. Might be worth throwing some fuel system cleaner in the tank in case one or more injectors are a little gunked up. One or two cylinders firing poorly or not at all could explain why it's vibrating so much, though I wouldn't expect that to only act up at low RPM, and I would expect it to throw misfire codes if it was that bad. Probably wouldn't hurt to clean the idle controls, maybe check for signs of the coolant leak those get, but again, it sounds like that system is doing its job. If your throttle body isn't the fussy electric one, maybe give that a clean, on the off chance.
    1 point
  23. I cleaned mine a few times in the past before this started happening. I'll try cleaning it again over the weekend to see if it changes anything. Chris.
    1 point
  24. Maybe clean your MAF sensor.
    1 point
  25. My 2001 R50 Pathfinder 4X4 Manual, recently started doing the same thing. It's almost like it's about to stall when I'm stopped at a red light in neutral, it does this about 3-5 seconds after coming to a stop but it seems a bit intermittent in my case, anyway. Chris.
    1 point
  26. Update to this age-old post: turns out it was a malfunctioning Pulse Air Valve (goes by a couple of different names, but the part number is 22660-5210V). It was kind of a weird replacement, because it met all test procedures - just kind of stumbled upon it while running some other tests: According to manuals, you are to measure the resistance of the two pins and if it is between 70-80ohms and as long as it checks out, you move on to diag'ing the harness etc. Apparently my solenoid was still functioning (I think it was around 72-73ohms) but something was causing the valve to not close as much as it should (possible worn internal spring?), thereby sucking in a bunch of unwarranted air. This was accompanied by a strange "air surging" sound coming from the intake - almost sounded like a dang vacuum at the air filter. I diag'd it by removing the two 10mm bolts and plugging both the intake plenum hole and also the valve itself. The "vacuum sucking" sound stopped at the intake and the idle mellowed out. Anyway: if anyone has this bizarre issue, and the intake sounds like a vacuum or 'surging/sucking' sound, it pays to firstly unplug your IACV (easy test - if your idle drops, you know it's okay), then check that pulse air valve/air regulator. Especially if you can find no other exterior, other vacuum leaks in any of the other hoses/tubes. hope this helps someone.
    1 point
  27. Any coolant smells? Check your heater core, check for rust in the bulkhead up behind the bonnet hinges too. Failing that have your windshield resealed, I had mine done about 12 months ago.
    1 point
  28. Sounds like a first to me. I would highly suspect the seal around the windshield since there are times it does not always get sealed well when replaced(had that with a few Nissan Car's before). If the windshield was replaced that would be my first guess. If not it might be work having a local shop look at it
    1 point
  29. Nope, no write off; the bodyshop was awesome as they took photos of both the exterior and interior to show the insurance how it was amazing condition, and to help convince them that it was worth fixing, and that it wasn't just some 30 year old pos beater truck. The quote was around $2700ish. The insurance just deposited what the original quote was and said I can go on my own and find a shop that can fix it. I'm praying for you man: I assume it still drives perfectly fine? Honestly it doesn't look too bad: replace the grille, headlight, bumper, and realign the hood and you're laughing. Your truck looks in perfect condition, should be enough to convince them to at least cut you a check.
    1 point
  30. I found myself in the exact same situation as you about a year ago Eric. I ended up going your initial route with the rear OME MD springs (2922) and it improved so many aspects of the vehicle I never regretted it. Now I personally kind of like the raked out look combined with the fact that I carry a lot of gear on weekends heading to the mountains it seemed like the perfect solution. Well I will say after installing the MD springs just in the rear, it was too stink bug looking even for me, I didn't let it stay like that for long. With likely sagging front springs as well, the disparagement was too much so after a couple months I decided to put MD springs in the front too. For a while I debated whether to actually do the Light Duty springs over the MD because I liked the raked look. Well I'm very glad I didn't, so much so I also added the Rocky-Road front trim packer with my MD springs because I wasn't happy with just the MD springs up front. Even after the springs settle, with just MD in the rear I think it would be too much of a difference. When people say 2" lift, that's from the sagged out state. It's 0.75" of lift over the stock from the factory height. I'd recommend actually just going ahead and doing the OME 2922s in the rear for now and when the funds permit go with the matching springs in the front. You won't regret it and in the meantime the handling of your Pathfinder will feel like new. Despite what people say, worn out springs also have a huge contributor to body roll and polar moment of inertia. My guess is if you went with a factory like replacement for example from Moog, you'd wished you had gotten a lift.
    1 point
  31. If it wasn't a billion dollars to get one over here I probably would have done that already. Then there is the fact it is RHD, though it would probably be pretty simple to convert to LHD with a parts truck...
    1 point
  32. Sure, pal! I'm waiting for my D2S bulbs. I am tempted to take them off my other car but I'm sure Mr monkey-hands will damage them. Wiring is all done and this has been by far the easiest retrofit I've done. No wire stripping, no drilling or dremeling and the shrouds are like tailor made for the reflector bowl. The only problem has been finding where to mount the ballasts, but mostly because I want them hidden. I don't like the blacked out headlight look so I'll try to avoid painting the reflector bowl unless I see stray reflections that could cause glare. Once I get the bulbs and make sure the cutoff is straight, I will post some pics.
    1 point
  33. Couldn't stand my stock headlights any longer. In the middle of retrofitting Morimoto D2S 5.0 HID projectors:
    1 point
  34. Nistune, maybe? They don't officially support Pathfinders, but My1Path got one working on his WD21 ECU, probably because the computer was similar enough to one of the models that they do support. There may be a similar close-enough compatibility to get one running on the R50. I don't know if anyone's done it yet.
    1 point
  35. Yep. That will work. That is similar to my starter fix for the auto trans Pathfinder. Just replace the fuel pump with starter in the connections in your diagram. Your source wire from the battery should have a fuse for safety, 15 amp should be good. Bad grounds create so many fun problems on modern cars, even in the older EFI engines like our old WD21's.
    1 point
  36. You’re crazy on that water crossing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  37. 1 point
  38. Some action shots I received from my neighbor when we had our snow storm back in January Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
    1 point
  39. about time i got to go fishing with friends Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  40. Not to be argumentative, but simply to point out there’s differences in taste, I like the amber corners. In fact, I intend to put more amber on my truck (Raptor mod & maybe front & back running lights on rack). Unless you’re murdering out your truck (as above), I don’t get the clear corners. Honestly, I don’t even get it much in cars. It’s a European thing, not really a Japanese, Australian or American thing. In fact, some places put extra amber lights on the sides of the front fenders (secretly, I kind of like it because it reminds me of my Z). I also kind of like the bright amber running lights in Toyotas. That said, truly to each their own. I may just need to start an Amber Support Group (Oh, maybe Amber Anonymous), I’m starting to realize I might actually have a problem. I don’t dislike the clears in trucks, it’s just not for me. Also, I get that it’s an easy mod to do to just do something and I’ve certainly made changes for that reason alone too.
    1 point
  41. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  42. One important thing about #1 that I forgot to mention is that the rear of the chassis is also supported by jack stands. That is, you need 4 jack stands and a good floor jack to do this. In the first pic, the red jack stand set is used for supporting and pivoting the axle, but there's also a silver jack stand set (the driver's side one is just visible over the floor jack) that the truck is resting on them. Amended (clarified) instructions: 1. Lift the rear of the truck and use jack stands to support the rear chassis. There are oval-ish jack/support pads under the rear passenger doors on the unibody rail. Height of the truck depends on your jack stands...lift as high as possible, reasonable, and safe. I've used blocks to gain a few more inches to my basic 2-ton stands (it becomes especially helpful if installing lift springs and/or spacers). A proper floor jack (2.5-ton+) is capable of lifting the entire rear of the truck just by placing the jack directly under the rear diff. 2. With chassis supported, lift the rear axle and support both sides with jack stands on their highest setting. Position the jack stands under the lower spring perches, leaving enough room for your jack between the jackstand and axle end. 3. Remove the tires 4. Disconnect the shocks at the bottom, or remove them altogether. 5. Place your floor jack near the end of the axle. Lift the axle up enough to clear the jack stand, then remove the jack stand from the area. 6. Slowly lower the jack, allowing the axle to pivot on the opposite jack stand. Watch for line stretch if applicable. 7. As the end of the axle gets lower, the spring will decompress, and eventually loosen in the seat 8. When the axle is as low as reasonable, you should be able to lift the spring up to clear the lower perch, then tilt the bottom out and slide the spring down off the bump stop. (In my pic, the axle is resting on the drum, but that hasn't always been necessary if you can get the chassis supported high enough.) 9. Re-use the rubber spring pieces and install the new spring and/or spacers by reversing step #8. 10. Lift the end of the axle with the jack until axle, put the jack stand from step #5 back in place, and lower the axle onto the jack stand. 11. Repeat steps 5-10 on the other side of the axle. 12. Once both springs are in, reconnect/install the shocks, put the tires back on, and lift the truck off all 4 jack stands.
    1 point
  43. Madhakish, I'm in St. Paul, so I know exactly what you are talking about. My '95 rusted out from under me. Still have it just because I'm not done taking parts from it. I bought a '94 SE from another board member who lives in Florida earlier this year. No rust and because he was a board member I knew he'd taken care of it. Was no big deal to fly down and drive it back. I'd consider the same option if I were you. But of course if you need something right now you might have to look elsewhere. Good luck!
    1 point
  44. My honest opinion of doing a 350 or 302 v8 swap.....cut all the crap out & run the vehicle like an old school muscle car. No power windows, locks, A/C, etc. Remember, it's a wheeling rig. All you need is the engine, tranny, steering, suspension, tires, and a seat for your ass. That's what I'm planning on doing when the time comes. Doors off & possibly even the tailgate. Install roll cage & drive it like you built it to be driven/off-roaded.
    1 point
  45. I would go vg33e... it swaps right in, u can add headers intake and exhaust for about 200hp and 220+ ft lbs. throw your old 3.0 cams for even more power they are higher lift. u dont need to worry about wiring or ecu then as your old ecu will run the 3.3 just fine... that's what im doing anyways! mostly working myself ive done almost the entire swap including custom exhaust/headers in about a week i have another day or 2 to go. really not a bad swap difficulty wise! add some 4.9 gears from an xterra and u will be bangin with 33s
    1 point
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