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Hello everyone, I'm no stranger to Nissan/Datsun, having owned several of their great cars over the years, including an S13, 510 Wagon, and 32 Skyline. As my needs changed, I had to bid farewell to those vehicles and opt for something more practical yet still fun. Now, I've finally picked up a JDM WD21 Pathfinder/Terrano. While she requires some work, it's nothing beyond possibility. My goal is to build her into a capable and reliable vehicle over time. Sorry for the low res photos, I had to really compress the image sizes to meet the 150kb cutoff lol

Yes, hinge may be a better word. I don't see different color codes available - perhaps they only came in black. Nissan 88327-42G10 Cover-Cushion Hinge,Rear Seat 1987-1995 Nissan Pathfinder 8832742G10 Part Description Cover-Cushion Hinge,Rear Seat Lookup Code 88327N Position Rear Replaces 88327-42G02, 88327-42G00, 88327-42G01 Manufacturer Nissan Require Quantity 04

I got the door open by shooting wd40 in through the outside handle and beating on where the door latch is with my fist haha. Didn't solve the no start problem though. Thanks for that link.

Yes I have them as well... somewhere around here. I believe it's the cover for the lower rear seat latches.

Yep, I spent a while browsing through Summit and Jegs. Their filters are somewhat useful, but that’s how I came across the CTS-V option, was looking for OE replacements and there were some options. Also found this odd site, size.name, that just a bunch of radiator specs and limited filters. Found a couple with useful sizes, except they were pretty much all for international vehicles or still used mechanical fans. One for a Terrano would have worked well, slightly narrower than R50. VG33 equipped trucks are similarly sized, but the outlet on the passenger side when I need it on the drivers side. The good news is that I did a little research on the “expansion tank” setup, and the CTS-V option may actually be viable now. Amazon has universal tanks and there’s should be enough space to mount above the steering box. The overflow I could actually spill into the OE reservoir, and I think I’d just need to tee-in a return line somewhere…and I think I’d have just the spot by the thermostat. Now it’s just a matter of pricing this out…RA wants $40 for a replacement fan wiring harness, and I’d need two of them. That’s not happening.

Hit a major milestone today: the engine supports are supporting the engine. They're not done-done, but their function of supporting the engine is done. Still need to make a panhard bracket for the LH side and such. I'd been working on the chassis rail brace the other week, and got that all mounted and welded on... That was going to be the end of it, but then I had an afterthought about adding another mounting provision to really try to beef that area up, since the PHB mount will be directly under the rear leg of the subframe cradle bolt. Ended up like this... Didn't get any pics of the supports after taking these, but was just jamming today. Right now the axle and everything is back under the truck and lined up for the next round of work, which includes the transmission crossmember with radius arm mounts. At some point, I spent some time looking for an OE radiator that had electric fans from some other car model that was similarly sized. I can't believe how difficult that search has been. Original plan was to just move the radiator over maybe 1/2", but it would also require heavy modification to the fan shroud to clear the steering gear box. The best option I have is from a Cadillac CTS-V from nearly 20 years ago, but it uses a remote pressurized reservoir instead of a tradition reservoir and radiator cap, which means system changes I don't want to do. Need to keep researching that, because I'm getting to the point where I can start putting the engine back together.

I did plug the timer back in, and locks are working as intended! As for the TSB with wiring, no need to look up, it’s linked in the thread I shared and it’s very helpful along with the discussion there. Thank you for the guidance, it feels good to have eliminated the source.

Update. I wired the gauge and testet it out directly to thr battery and it works great now i will wire it to the cigarette lighter or the cb wires if they work :). Hm thank you I will leave it for now and bother with that when i make new 2.5in exhaust and add the intercooler. Will keep you guys posted for the build :). Thanks for the help.

Lol yeah, I prefer the JDM versions of most Nissans because they usually came with more options.

You can still get an OEM sending unit from a 93-95. It's a slightly different design but it should work in previous models. P/N is 25061-85P05. Check ebay (or amayama.com for best price if you don't mind waiting several weeks coming from Japan). You'll have to swap various bits and pieces over from the old unit, so don't toss the old one. I'm not sure if anyone knows of an easier option but this is the route I went since I figured it would last another 30+ years. I also replaced the fuel pump (w/ strainer) as well as the hoses (fuel submersible rated 5/16"). If you're really on a super tight budget you'll probably want a multimeter to confirm the sending unit is actually bad (and not the instrument cluster) before buying anything. The resistance (ohms) changes on the circuit when you actuate the lever which you can read with the multimeter. The proper values for full/empty you'll have to dig up on these forums and I'm sure the procedure can be found on youtube.

Not sure where he tested in the circuit but if he checked the positive lead to the fuel pump against the chassis (ground) to determine if the fuel pump was even getting +12v power and it's not then I would replace the fuse (for good measure) and then also the fuel pump relay (relatively cheap, easy) and see if that resolves the issue.

Killed a few minutes in the garage tonight, and fortunately I think the radiator conversation is moot now. I like the idea of e-fans, but I went into it knowing it was just going to add complexity and cost. The lack of good options makes it tough to pursue further. The original plan was to just move the radiator over to the passenger side about 1/2" and keep everything otherwise stock. At the time, it was hard to tell if that would actually work. That's why getting those engine supports and chassis rail brace in was a big milestone, so I could get confirmation. Looks like I only need to move it 3/8" so I was very close, and things are still pretty tight, but it looks doable. Fan blades clear the shroud, which is probably the most important part. Took a torch to the shroud to make some clearance. In hindsight, I probably should've just used the heat gun or boiling water. Looks like $h!t, and the plastic melted through a little, but I really just needed to get quick fitment confirmation. I may just cut an opening, or rivet in an ABS patch, but this going to work. I have some points where plastic will rub on metal, but I can trim that or live with it. Regardless of the path I was going to take here, the radiator was going to be replaced. It's actually nice to not have to put something else in. The truck will already be a Frankenstein by the time the project's done. I'm having to closely track where all the parts come from...Land Rover, GM, Jeep, Toyota, and even other Nissans. In this case, I only wish there was some sort of radiator upgrade for the R50, but staying stock saves a few bucks and moving the mounts shouldn't be too difficult.

This was the first thing I replaced! Previous owner had it duct taped, but did a horrible job. I replaced the MAF this past weekend. The hesitation, hard start, and stalling seems to be gone! It seems to have more pep as well! That pesky misfire code disappeared, but it still idles a little rough. I'll keep this thread posted on what I find.

While you're replacing the MAF, have a good look at the rubber tube connecting it to the throttle body. If that cracks, the engine gets air that the MAF doesn't know about.

As we know there is a design flaw on the WD21 which causes the rear seat floor to rust out. You won't see the rust "until it's too late" - the reason being there are multiple reinforcement plates in this area and it's rusting from the inside-out due to water ingress between the plates. Everyone should have this issue although it's going to be exaggerated if you live in the rust belt. I believe I have identified where the water is coming from. There is a chassis cross channel at the top of the trunk floor that contains ventilation holes. Based on the mud splash pattern under the car I believe the rotating drive shaft is throwing water up into these ventilation holes. This water is then creeping down between the reinforcement plates and getting trapped. There is a second possible entry point on the sides of the plate which also have ventilation holes and may be taking in water from the rear tires; although when I cut out the top layer of reinforcement plates to investigate I noted the passenger side was much worse than the driver side - again I believe due to the rotating drive shaft. Here is a picture (taken from where the fuel tank would be which I have removed at the moment). Pathfinder Rust Spot 1.jpg The preventative fix would be to shoot cavity wax into this area. I used Noxudol 750 which comes with a 360 degree 2' extension wand and has a high creep rate and anti-corrosion properties. After saturating the length of this channel very well with wax and waiting a bit - sure enough the wax started to drip out of the same areas that typically rust out between the plates. Pathfinder Rust Spot 2.jpg Another preventative may be to JB Weld some stand-off baffle plates over the ventilation holes (you don't want to plug the holes) which should stop any further water entry. Lastly, a 3rd possible entry point are the lower rear seat belt bolts which penetrate the plates and into the rear wheel well. I didn't see as much evidence of this; however I removed these bolts, applied anti-seize and reinstalled them for good measure.

Little update. Idle was really rough yesterday, sitting at 500rpm, then bogging down to a stall. Decided to unplug the MAF sensor and the idle went back to normal! Guess I'll start with replacing the sensor and go from there.

I had my headlights fail while driving once. Lost high and low, both sides, while driving. Not what you want. If the plugs are that bad, I'd be a bit leery of the bulbs--if they can't get a 9004 plug right, what else did they screw up? If you're sure they're alright, I'd cut the plugs off a cheap set of regular bulbs that do fit and hard wire them to the garbage plugs. Is the light output worth the trouble?

Aha! Good work tracking it down. Figures it's the alarm, those things are a menace. Joining the two black/yellow wires will bypass the alarm. I did that on mine, for a while, but later developed an intermittent weak start/no start issue (acted like the battery was dead, then cranked right up the next time I turned the key) that didn't clear up until I removed the alarm harness in its entirety. I'm not sure what was wrong at that point, given the alarm brain was already in the bin, but I haven't had a problem since the harness joined it there. These systems were installed after the fact, so they're pretty easy to make go away. Two or three wires are scotchlock'd into the harness, but most of them plug in between the truck's actual harness. So you unplug the ignition switch from the alarm harness, unplug the alarm harness from the truck harness, plug the ignition switch into the truck harness, and it's like the alarm was never there. Same deal for the door locks, at the A pillar IIRC. Two or three wires go through the firewall to the siren and hood switch, but they're bundled with the wiring for the fog lights, so don't just cut the lot. The alarm harness has each wire silkscreened with its purpose, which the main harness doesn't, so if it doubt, look for the silkscreen. There's a TSB with the alarm system wiring, I'll see if I can dig that up again. I'll bet if you plug the door lock timer back in, the power locks will work properly again, now that the alarm isn't feeding it garbage.

The salt up here means all but a handful are gone. I genuinely get excited when seeing another one on the road. Can go almost a year or more without seeing another wd21 here in Ontario. I have a couple friends that still have them. But we don't drive them in the winter. My current one originally came from Vancouver BC. Last one I saw in the junkyard in my town had to be almost 5 years ago at least.

Here is my 1999.5 Pathfinder 4WD after I have done some minor mods to it. It has a 1" SF Creations spacer lift and Xterra SC rims and aluminum tire carrier. Also have full homemade skid plates. Only 135K miles. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xKA5tWVZfH302Jhc38VwWdnror65lkU6/view?usp=drive_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xJbUcT_7FFsxVv_S_6SC0IPxv-DEvief/view?usp=drive_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1x7kq0piO6hRtpdL6W2IZojlq3eJzFDSy/view?usp=drive_link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xBZrDik5sWmwLBdsZviiP8IpCGfAobRt/view?usp=drive_link

I'm not entirely sure what the door relay is--do you remember the full name/location on this one? I get that the door lock timer is disconnected, I just don't remember a door relay off the top of my head. As level9 said, it sounds like the switched ground for the dome light is grounded somewhere it isn't supposed to be. Worst case, it's a random rub-through somewhere in the harness, but before we assume the worst, let's see if we can get a better idea for where--if it's in the harness at all. Is the rear dome light also stuck on (with its switch in the auto position)? The front and rear dome light have a diode between them, so if the rear hatch is open, both come on, but if only the side doors are open, only the front dome comes on. Sounds like you've already taken the rear hatch switch out of the equation, and I'm assuming you taped up the spade terminal to where it's not grounding out on a bracket or something. If the switch is not the problem, and the rear dome is still on, that suggests a fault in the cargo area side of the circuit--and there ain't much else to it. Either the dome light itself is somehow shorting switched ground to constant ground, the switch wire is busted where it flexes between the hatch and the body, or the wire is cut/rubbed through/chewed through and grounding elsewhere along its run. If the rear dome light works properly (and comes on when it's set to auto and the switch wire is grounded), then you can rule out the circuit from the diode back. Does yours have the front footwell lights, and are those staying on, too? Those are on the same circuit as the front dome light, but they are not controlled by its switch. If turning off the front dome light turns those off too, that suggests the front dome light is somehow bridging switched to constant ground. Unplug the dome light and see if the footwell lights go out. If it's not the cargo area circuit, and the footwell lights work as expected (or you don't have footwell lights), I would set the front dome to auto, and then unplug the few things that are on that circuit one at a time until the light goes out. I know you've replaced the door switches already, but I would still start there. IIRC they ground to the body, so you don't have to unplug them, just take the screws out and let them hang. Check what you can see of their wiring while you're at it, make sure it's not cracked or chewed. Those door dingers are probably a long shot, given they're working, but they're not too hard to get to, so unplug those too and see if that gets it. The stock keyless entry/alarm system also ties into the dome light circuit, so if that's still in there, try unplugging that too (it's the square box under the driver's seat--not the roundy one, that's the ABS). If that doesn't do it, I'd try unplugging the cluster as well. I should note that I have not heard of any of the above components causing this problem, or dying due to a battery arc (did the guy seriously try to remove the alt with the battery still hooked up?). They're just all I can think of that's on the dome light circuit. If all of that stuff is unplugged, and the light is still on, then, yeah, you've got some wiring to chase. Let me know if you end up there and I'll have a poke at the EL section, see if I missed something, or if there's an easy disconnect somewhere else in the circuit so you can narrow down the search area a bit more.

Wouldn't hurt to check/clean the MAF. The plug on the MAF tends to loosen up and cause issues, but when that was acting up on mine, it did the opposite--ran fine when my foot was in it, but forgot how to idle.

I had no idea that section of the floor was double-walled! Makes sense, though--rust loves metal sandwiches, especially once dirt and moisture get in there. I went and had a look at mine, and it doesn't have the hole in the middle, but it does have a couple of holes above each spring perch. My floor is solid so far (under the seats, at least), but I may copy what you've done with the wax to keep it that way. I'm tempted to try and find rubber bungs to fill those holes when I'm done. If the top is closed up, and the bottom is open enough to leak wax, surely that's enough ventilation, right? No sense leaving them open for stuff to get in that might not be able to get out. I'm convinced that's what killed the frame on my '95--it's easier for dirt to get into the frame than it is for it to get out, so it just sits in there, clogs up the drains, and forms a wet (and salty, given where that truck was from) sponge up against the steel. Edit: I looked up the wax spray you're using, and the Amazon link says it's "restorative scalp and hair care."

I would be surprised if there isn't some rubber strip material out there that could be cut to size and stuck on.

I should have posted here first. Normally when I try unplugging something it has unintended consequences. This doesn’t appear to have any thus far! Thank you. Full manual definitely has some annoying drawbacks, but I really like not worrying about draining my battery or having to disconnect the battery or some unexpected actuation of the locks. Thank you! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't think that strip is factory. Probably an aftermarket add-on to prevent door dings.

If all you want to do is disable the power locks, you could just unplug the door lock timer. Weird that shorting the power lead to the alt would cause all that. Sounds like the timer got messed up real good.

Nissan was still running the VG33 in 2000, so if you're looking for an engine, that's not a match. The R50 LSDs were nerfed hard from what they were in the WD21. Hawairish has an excellent writeup for repacking the R50 LSD to be worth a damn. The early (first couple years IIRC) Xterra LSD is supposed to be a drop-in upgrade if you don't want to tear the diff all apart, but you do need to check the gear ratio and make sure it matches the front end. @Camperdan, thanks for the correction! Shows what I know about the VQ35.

Final resolution- it was the rear wiper amp module that failed. I got a replacement unit and tested it, and all switch positions worked perfectly (interval, on, off, and wiper). The replacement came from a '95, so that confirms compatibility of unit from '95 model with that of '87 model Whether it was the fusible link failure that initially caused the rear wiper amp failure, or vice versa, we'll never know. Many thanks to Slartibartfast for the diagrams and all the guidance provided, as well as the replacement unit, which got me back fully functional again.

Update, I had the timing belt replaced and it still looked good after 20 years according to the mechanic. He also said that he prayed the whole time that he would not bust any of the bolts, they were PITA to remove.

He's gonna want to stick to the VQ35DE that came in R50s 2001-2002 only, because the VQ that's in the 2003-2004 R50s has a few other changes beside from the drive by wire throttle body. I was also was planning on sourcing a spare engine from the junkyard out of an 2003-2004 R50, but according to our late friend @Dbot there's other things that have been changed like the cam phasers, sensors etc, so it won't mesh with his R50s current computer. He advised me of this as he was thinking about doing the same in the past, but after doing some research he came across some of these differences in the engines. Chris.

I appreciate this thread. Just used conduit mounts and bed liner paint to put on a basket I got off of Facebook marketplace. Happy so far with it. It’s on there really good with minimal extra wind noise. Link to a pic (on the Facebook npora group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/NPORA/permalink/10160846826250129/?app=fbl

Did too! Borg on the left, old busted donut on the right.

Hey everyone, Inquiring to see if there is much interest to have an R50 get together in PNW area. Thinking may be a weekend in Browns Camp & Sandlake (Oregon coast area) type of event. If there is much interest, lets put something together and talk R50s. I've built mine up and looking for other ideas as well, and ready to share any information about mine with others. aka BudNixon on Youtube in case you want to see what/how I've built up to now

Also had the engine torn down to change out the thermostats, gaskets on the rear water pipe, knock sensor, rebuild the fuel injectors, PCV, valve cover gaskets, etc. If you're going to rebuild them, get a kit with o-rings, pintle caps, and filters. Also get a filter removal tool; I was unable to remove a filter without one. Carb and choke cleaner with one of those pulse controllers off Amazon worked well to clean them, but it was a little on the messy side. And while not a Pathfinder, I tore down my Frontier on Sunday and got it to the body and paint shop. Time to bring it back to life! These pics are of the "good" side. The hood, roof, and passenger bedside are really bad. Paint shop will also do a spray-in bedliner (had a drop-in). Should have it back in a month, then will put new windshields, lenses, and rear bumper on. Btw, driving it without windshields is a blast. Driving without mirrors...not so much.

Wow it’s been some time! I was browsing the r50 section to see what might be new and I figured I might as well throw up an update in case anyone cares. The truck is now at 320,000 miles, still going strong. Worst thing to happen since my last update was an small evap leak, everything else works like new. I’ve got a code for the swirl control system but haven’t been able to track it down yet. Doesn't affect drivability as far as I can tell, so it’s likely one of the million parameters involved in its operation is slightly out of spec for what the system is looking to see. I’ve tested the valve itself and the vacuum lines around it, no issues. Eventually Ill need to sort it out so I can pass emissions, but whatever it’s on the back burner for now. There’s a slight weep from the rear diff, most likely the pinion seal. I need to do the rear wheel bearings, drums, and axle seals all together so I’m planning it for some time over the summer. My girlfriends 4runner needs that same treatment but a little more desperately since her drums are soaked in gear oil so it takes priority over mine at the moment. My engine still leaks oil like crazy, no matter which stop leak I use. I gave up at some point and now I just run maxlife blend 10w-40 which seems to keep it under control better than the mobile 1 did. If I’m driving it a lot every day I go through about a quart per week, but luckily I’m working from home these days so I can keep the oil consumption to a minimum. I also changed the radiator and hoses, along with the two front cam position sensors and fan+clutch as preventative maintenance. Got the front shaft U-joints swapped out and balanced by a driveline shop so there’s no more rumbling on the highway. In the late fall my dad and I took the two pathfinders out to the Logandale trail network outside of Vegas to blast through the sandy canyons a bit. Super fun spot, but my skinny tires were a little bit out of their comfort zone in some of the really deep sand. Especially because the tread depth is getting pretty low. I’ve had the tires since March 2020 I think? So probably 35K miles at least, with about 6-10 months of usable tread left at this rate. My JEGS jerry can go stolen from the back of the truck over the winter. Some bastard cut the ratchet strap while it was parked. People are getting desperate with the gas prices being the way they are. So when I replaced the can I also built in a simple swing open locking mechanism to keep casual thieves from trying. It’s not impenetrable obviously, but so far no one has messed with it. I also got a nice set of seat covers so I don’t have to look at the ugly cuts and tears in my seats anymore. I think they look great now A few weeks ago I welded up some basic low profile rock sliders to help deflect the odd boulder that might want to smack the rocker panels this summer. They mount up using the original mounts for the side steps like most other guys have done. The only exception is the middle bracket had to be modified to get the right height. I tested them with my jack and they’re easily strong enough to use for lifting a wheel. My goal was to lose as little ground clearance as possible, so I made them fit nice and tight to the body, with just enough gap to be able to flex slightly upwards under load without touching. It’s a very basic setup but I’m happy to have that extra bit of protection just in case. You can hardly even tell they’re there In preparation for the season I also swapped out my rusted and damaged smitty trail jack for a hi lift extreme 48” which is much nicer quality and should last forever. I plan to keep it covered in WD40 to keep the rust away and I wipe on a light coat every couple weeks. I’ve padlocked it to the mount just in case Last but not least, I noticed my driver side CV was starting to rattle when I was going over small bumps. At first it sounded like something was loose in the suspension but it turned out to be the inner joint. When I tried to turn the shaft back and forth by hand it had noticeable play. Being that I didn’t want to break it on the trail again like last year, I swapped it out for a new one. The brand is GSP I think? Fairly cheap. Absolutely zero binding at full droop, even with no sway bar, and it’s actually so smooth I had to double check that my hub was really engaged. Time will tell if it lasts, but overall it seems to be good quality. I just wish I had the motivation and time to swap my Rockford boots onto it. From what I can tell, this one seems to be in the pre-facelift style with the round flange rather than the tri-flange shape, which I believe means it should have a slightly better range of motion (provided its made to OE spec) because I think I read somewhere the earlier models had slightly longer struts. Anyway, I think that just about covers everything I’ve done in the last several months. Next up this year Ill be redoing the rear bumper with plate steel now that I have a garage again. Even though mine is still functional, I’m sick of the plastic bumper cover. Then maybe I’ll look into some aluminum skids and a locker. It’s shaping up to be an awesome summer, I’m super excited to hit the trails again.

Well it appears we lost almost a year of posts here so I thought I'd repost some of what I had done in that time just in case any of it will be helpful to anyone in the future. U-Bolts for mounting X-Bull type traction boards to the SE Roof Rack. I added adhesive felt to the top, and shrink wrap to the bottom to help protect the rack: Installed Midland MXT275 mobile GMRS radio installed in upper-portion of the center console with supplied antenna on the roof (excuse all the dog hair in these shots): Short antenna from cravenspeed.com. I was tired of the huge factory antenna getting hung up on branches of narrow trails. This is listed on their site as a Nissan Frontier part but works great: And some beauty shots C/O @PathyDude17 & @zakzackzachary & myself, as well as a video walkaround on Tyler's channel: Up next is a set of skid plates & missing link that is on order from SF Creation...

That's a fantastic way for this story to continue!! Congrats on getting your old rig back. Mine has been scrapped so no hope of that for me... What are your plans with the other Pathy now? I vote for keep it and keep buying more - call it a collection so it sounds fancy.

New Method wheels and Warn hubs installed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

an older pic of before i did my lights and other stuff. This was taken right after I did my AC springs and KYB shocks/struts and got my big 265/70/R16 tires on there. Just me messing around a bit and smilin' all big, putting the Q on a random rock lol

Hey how’s it going? Finally decided to join the Npora forum after years of always looking on here. I bought my first 1987 Nissan Pathfinder earlier this year April 2020. After looking for years for a 2dr pathfinder. Always had love for the nissans since my dad bought a 1986.5 or 1987 Nissan hardbody d21 Brand new back In the day before I was born and got to grow up riding around in it with my brothers. My 1987 Nissan Pathfinder is a project and will progress slowly as I find time for it. Since I have 2 daughters one is 3 years old and my other was just born 2weeks ago on august 19 , 2020. Hopefully take them wheeling one day with me. Here are some pictures of how I bought it and how it looks now.

Might just be the cheap butt moogs. I installed new moog springs on all corners and mine sags as bad as it did before I installed them..

The Time has come... I'm offering you to be the first to receive my newborns. These new products will be available for the new year but exceptionally, I am offering them to the NPORA community first. Here's your chance to go offroad with a completely different set of mind knowing you're not going to bust an engine or trans oil pan or a front driveshaft, diff etc... This makes a huge difference between being stressed out and being zen during the trail. Like I mentioned on another post, even if you do not rock climb with your pathfinder, I have seen , more than once, a simple branch going through an oil pan during a trail. You can imagine how this can turn a nice trail day into a nightmare. I have 3 new products to offer. They are: 1) Control Arm Crosslink. This item will serve two purposes.First to stiffen the front by linking both control arms, then to serve as a solid platform for the mid and rear skidplate. Complete Description and pricing at the bottom of this post. 2) 1/4" Aluminium Mid Skidplate. Connects on the sub frame in the front and to the crosslink in the rear. Protects Front diff and engine oil pan. YOU WILL NEED THE CROSSLINK TO INSTALL THIS SKIDPLATE. Complete Description and pricing at the bottom of this post. 3) 1/4" Aluminium Rear Skidplate. Connects on the crosslink in the front and to the trans. crossmember in the rear. Protects complete Transmission, Front Driveshaft, Front ujoints, Transfer Case.YOU WILL NEED THE CROSSLINK TO INSTALL THIS SKIDPLATE. Complete Description and pricing at the bottom of this post. Listening to the members here, I have decided to offer everything either raw or Powder Coated. One very important thing to note is that raw aluminium is rarely free of scratches when the plates are delivered. This usually happens during the handling and transport before they even get to me. After a few complaints of unknowing clients, this is when I decided to powdercoat everything. The scratches are usually on the surface and not very deep. But it has happens once or twice where I needed to sand the plate before powdercoating it. This means that surface scratches will be present and if there is deeper ones, I will sand them in order to make them look better. So the RAW ALUMINIUM Option will possibly have surface scratches and/or sanding marks. There is not much more I can do on that subject :-) I have made a serious effort to lower my prices (with the design and also for this special one time only offer). SHIPPING IS FREE FOR USA AND CANADA.. So please consider this in your comparison with other products. It is most likely that the prices will be adjusted (read higher) when they get posted on my website in january 2017. For those who already bought my front skidplate, these new products are compatible with it. For those who already bought my crosslink in the past , then you will still be able to fit the mid and rear skidplates but you will need to drill new holes in them since the spacing is different between the old and the new crosslink. If you need more details, please send me a private message or get in touch by email at sfcreation<@>yahoo.com (without the brackets). The preSale is open from now to December 31st. The fabricating will start on January 9th (because of the construction workers winter vacation) and depending on the options taken, the first items will start shipping before the end of January. The shipping is insured and tracked. The tracking number will be communicated to you when your items ships. I will use this post to list the members that have ordered. It will be an easy way to confirm the items you ordered and also the state of the fabrication and shipping. Instead of updating everyone individually , I will post the state of the different steps in here. Finally, you can see a few of my trail test in the past on my personal youtube channel https://www.youtube.com/user/fleurys2.. I have been running these skidplates since 2010 and my truck never suffered any breakage from hits on rocks.. I know these are probably the best investment you can do to your truck if you go offroad. Procedure to ORDER: Send me EITHER a private message here or an email at : Sfcreation<@>yahoo.com (without the brackets) with the following information 1) Full Name 2) Your NPORA member name (ex: mine is fleurys) 2) Full Shipping Address 3) EMAIL ADDRESS that your paypal account is linked to. (This is where I will send the paypal invoice) 4) QUANTITY and OPTIONS of the products that you want 5)*** I only Ship to paypal confirmed address. Make sure that your shipping address is correct when doing the paypal payment*** From there I will send a paypal invoice. Once paid I will add your npora name here, in this post, with the items your ordered and the status within 48 hours. In order to be part of this presale, the payment must be done before December 31st. NAMES OF LUCKY BUYERS: 1) CORNPONE99 - 2 Stickers - Front Skid Powder coat - Mid skid RAW - Rear skid RAW - Crosslink RAW 2) PISTE - Crosslink Powder Coated 3) RICHMOND - Crosslink Powder Coated 4) RANGERPATHY - Mid Skid powder Coated - Rear Skid Powder Coated - Crosslink Powder Coated 5) BLACK = IN STANDBY ORANGE = IN FABRICATION BLUE = AT POWDER COATING STATION GREEN = SHIPPED (Check you emails for tracking number) Here are the details and price of the products: 1) Crosslink 100$ RAW STEEL (Optional Black Powder Coated Finish +15$) This Crosslink's primary function is to increase torsional stiffness of the unibody of your pathfinder. You will immediately feel the benefits of this with improved steering response and reduced body rattles. The second function of this Crosslink is to serve as a point of attachment for our mid and rear skidplates. Built from 3/16" steel all around and 5/16" Support tabs, this link will not break. It has been overbuilt in order to provide an unparalleled solid platform for our mid and rear skidplates. Recessed to the maximum, this crosslink is as high as possible in order to keep maximum clearance. 13 Lbs 2) MID skidplate 155$ RAW ALUMINIUM (Optional Black Powder Coated Finish +20$) This skidplate will protect the very exposed engine oil pan and front differential. It attaches to the Sub frame in the front and to the re-inforced crosslink (sold separately) at the rear. Light and resistant, this plate will protect expensive drivetrain parts from rocks and off-road mishaps. It is independent from the front skidplate and does not requires it. PLEASE NOTE : The Control arm Crosslink is necessary in order to attach this skid plate. It is not included with it. 1/4" 6061-T6 Aluminum Only 10 Lbs Bolt on installation - no drilling or cutting Powder coated black for a top notch finish as an option ** ** SYMMETRIC AND FULLY REVERSIBLE- IT'S LIKE HAVING 2 PLATES IN ONE IF IT BECOMES TOO SCRATCHED *** What's Included: 1x Skidplate 2x 1/4" spacers ** To be used with the front plate , If present *** 2x M10x1.25 Grade 8 Bolts and washers (front Bolts) 2x 3/8"/16 Zinc plated Bolts and washers (rear Bolts) 3) REAR SKIDPLATE 235$ (RAW ALUMINIUM + RAW STEEL (BRACKETS) (Optional Black Powder Coated Finish +30$) This skidplate will protect the very exposed Transmission oil pan, Transfer Case and Front Driveshaft and Ujoints. It attaches to the re-inforced crosslink (sold separately) in the front and to the Transmission Crossmember at the rear. Light and resistant, this plate will protect expensive drivetrain parts from rocks and off-road mishaps. It is independent from the front or mid skidplate and does not requires it. PLEASE NOTE : The Control arm Crosslink is necessary in order to attach this skid plate. It is not included with it. 1/4" 6061-T6 Aluminum Only 20 Lbs Bolt on installation - no drilling or cutting Powder coated black for a top notch finish as an option ** ** SYMMETRIC AND FULLY REVERSIBLE- IT'S LIKE HAVING 2 PLATES IN ONE IF IT BECOMES TOO SCRATCHED *** What's Included: 1x Skidplate 6x 3/8"/16 Zinc plated Bolts and washers (rear Bolts) 2x 3/16" steel Brackets For the installation part, I am working on producing a video where I will show how to install the whole sets of skidplates. It will be available before the plates ships. :-)

IMO, Stick a Race Sport Gen 2 LED kit in your headlights and be done with it. Then you can actually have a DOT cutoff and be legal. Did that over a year ago, and would do it again.

Year: 1998 Lift : 2" AC Lift + 1" strut spacer Wheels : American Racing Sawblades 15x8.5 3.5" bs Tires : BFG A/T 35x12.5x15 Notes: I put a lot of work into the wheel wells to make this work. I opened up all of the fenders by about 1.5 inches and ground down the pinch seams behind the front tires and rewelded them so they had a lower profile. I set the rear bump stops with 1.75 inch spacers to keep from rubbing at full up-travel. After all of this I had no rubbing due to travel but a decent amount of rubbing at right turn due to the fuel line shield that sits outside the frame in the passenger front wheel well. I drive this daily and can deal with the right turn rub although it can be a pain in the parking lots sometimes. After adding the fender flares I do rub on the flares a little during up travel but its worth it to me to not have water and mud flinging everywhere. Picture as it sits now: Picture on the trail after snapping my CV: Picture before fender flares: Picture during rework of the rear fenders: Picture of strut clearance:

Well I set out this summer to learn some basic metalworking and build a full set of skids. Unfortunately, I ran out of time in the summer but I did finish building a control arm crosslink, a new crossmember, and some sliders. With a little luck I will get some skids made sometime before next spring. In the mean time, here is what I made... Cross-link and Crossmember: Close-up of the Crossmember: Sliders just after being put together: After powder coating: Just before install: Now if it would just stop raining outside I could take some pictures of the final product! The new crossmember is much beefier than the stock crossmember and has a slightly higher clearance. I made sure to drill a few extra holes in everything for mounting the skid plates when I get around to it.

31x10.50 was a stock option. 767 wheels are good but http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/671000/10002/-1?CT=999 has some simar choices for less. 3.75-4" backspacing is what you want and 8" wide. For going to the snow or mid mud you encounter for shooting I reccomend a 1-1.5" lift to go with those tires. Use the search function here I think is OME (old man emu) rear springs for the lift and you just crank the t-bars and get an alignment for the front. I also recomend 1" longer shocks for the rear but its not a requirement for 1-1.5" lift.

Well guys, Since it was labor day weekend and I wasn't going to be doing anything I decided to go out and make one so here is my write up.... passenger side lower a arm mount with bolt out, 1-1/2" inch square tubing is the biggest that will fit bolts out on both sides I reused the bolts (long enough. 1-1/2" square tubing at 23-3/4" is what I used. I decided to just cut the tubing at angle instead of welding two mounts to attach it, which increase's strength Drilling 9/16" mounting hole test fit of the cross-member, upon tightening I noticed I couldn't fit the socket in