system_f

Dakota Digital made a device that I used in my first R50 for adjusting the speedo, but it had a problem where it freaked out when the input and output signal were the same. It was more designed to handle vastly different speedo sensors to speedometers...like 2000PPM on the sensor side and 60,000ppm on the speedo side. Some motorcycle speedometer correction devices seem more focused only going up or down 7% or whatever you are off. Those may be looking into. Motorcycles are almost ALWAYS 5mph faster on the gauge then you are actually going, which pisses me off to no end. The tone rings on the rear axles would have been tight, but cool to be able to build something like that.

As for your speed, the gears don't matter one bit, remember we are getting speed directly from the tone ring which is always spinning at wheel speed. Stock tire size is probably close to 720-740 RPM per mile and the speed will always be set to see "TONE RING TEETH" * (720 to 740) = pulses per minute at 60 MPH unless you can get into the ECU and change that in the firmware. No matter what the gearing your speed will always be off "Stock tire size" + or - "new tire size".

It's been a minute, and I haven't been up to date on where your R50 was before the SAS. So anything done that isn’t pictured I am not aware of and it may make the comments seem redundant. I have a couple of questions and some comments. 1. Rear vibration you are experiencing. Did you do a hack and tap slip yoke on your rear driveshaft? That was the only way I could get rid of the rear vibration when I was 6" ++ lift. 2. Steering: Toe and Camber, you'll find the right settings. I have two questions for you. These aren’t criticisms, I’m in no place to criticize this kind of work, but I am curious about your thought process? 1. What about side-to-side bracing, under the radiator support? Something to replace what the subframe did. This may be completely unnecessary, but what are your thoughts? 2. Strut tower bracing. Do you think the strut towers are strong enough? I know they were designed to handle the vehicle load, again, your thoughts.

Old post, but adding some info here for future users. I have a PO1140, this happened after I put new rings and bearings in my engine. This code is for the bank 1 (passenger side) cam position sensor voltage high or to ground. This is NOT a knock sensor code for a 2002 Nissan pathfinder with the VQ35DE. Here are my troubleshooting steps, followed FSM steps: 1. checked power to sensors - good 2. Checked wires from each sensor to pins 79 and 89 on the PCM, 79 is for the PO 1140, 89 for PO 1145. Both wires good, no shorts not broken 3. Bought on oscilloscope, checked wave form at each sensor based on FSM outputs listed, all good wave forms looked good 4. Purchased a new sensor just in case, rechecked wave form, it was inverted....great quality parts. Went back to old sensor. 5. Checked Wave form at PCM with engine running (Obviously) and all was good, matched FSM 6. At this point as a hail-mary I switched the inputs, so that bank 1 was looking at a known good bank 2 sensor and vice versa, still got a PO1140. Without a doubt this proves the transistor in the PCM for Bank 1 has a problem or that there is something wrong with my PCM. New one is on order with IOMMU and new key...pain in the butt. I was there was a way to disable this freaking chipped key crap, and NO I am not taping the key to the IOMMU module, I want it actually disabled. I think i can at least program these keys with my scan tool. The FSM warns about testing a certain way that could blow this transistor, I did not do any tests that would have blown this transistor, but I did have some electrical issues when reinstalling the engine that could have caused this problem within the PCM. Will report if the new PCM fixes it and I sure as hell hope it does because I need to pass inspection and get a sticker.

You had me at "Diesel"...

Yours brings back memories. My 2002 R50 CAN do 80, 81 , 82, 83, even 85 mph with a roof top tent into a 15mph wind. VQ is sooo nice as long as you don't have to mess with the lower alternator bolt.

I just realized this may be a 2wd R50, I forgot they even made those, in which case there are other options....but why would you lift it? When I lifted above about 4" I had to drill/tap the output shaft of my transfer case, order a special driveshaft (from Tom Woods) with a double cardian joint at the transfer case and a single U-joint at the pinion, they took my slip splines from my old driveshaft and built me a slip yoke eliminator, then I had to angle the pinion (I had adjustable links) so that it was pointing at the transfer case output. All in I spent about $500, but it was worth every penny. A complete night and day difference. With the 2" lift that I have now the stock driveshaft u-joints are at <5 degrees angle, which is fine and much less expensive.

I cut the factory step rail off and left its mounts bolted to the vehicle. then I put a piece of 2x2 3/16" thick piece of square tube up against the cut off mounts and welded it up. once i had that, I reinforced it further and did the weld on braces. The driver's side has two weld location points and the passenger side has three because the gas tank isn't in the way. No pictures, just imagine placing some angle on the "frame" and running square tube from it to the inner slider rail.

tymbits: the catch can helps to remove oil vapor from the pcv blow-by gasses before they get sucked back into the intake and burned. I am not sure how much oil I am burning, I don't think much at all. If you have excessive blow by this will help to keep the intake clean and help with burning that oil. This will not help with oil consumption caused by bad rings. Just to make sure there is no confusion about what I did, my front diff drop is only 3/4" . I just needed a little bit to ease the CV angles but not so much as to reduce ground clearance. Finally I finished my sliders. I purchased a new welder over the weekend and a tubing bender and decided to give tube bending a try. I thought about purchasing the sliders made for our vehicles, but I didn't want to attach to the pinch seam...yes I know it works, it is how my friends WJ sliders attach, but my experience with sliders has proven that weld-on is very skookum. The sliders are welded to the "frame" section of the unibody with 3/16" 3" by 4" angle iron. And now the big WIN. I had driveline vibration from the rear driveshaft that was driving me mad. Above 67 mph (indicated) the vibration was annoying, and driveshaft u-joint angles are less than 5 degrees so there is no need for a high angle driveshaft. I suspected the rear driveshaft was the problem even though i had it balanced and rebuilt. The other day I decided to remove the rear driveshaft from the equation so I picked up an Xterra rear shaft. Before installing the Xterra shaft I cleaned the rear diff pinion flange thoroughly , there may have been some binding here. All of my driveline vibrations are now gone, problem solved. Before I take the rear driveshaft back to the shop that balanced it I am going to reinstall it just to be sure there wasn't a problem with the pinion flange.

I purchased two brand new half shafts from Napa after I installed my lift. They vibrated so badly the vehicle was undriveable with the front hubs locked. With the wheel at full droop on jack stands it was almost impossible to turn the half shafts, you could see the binding on the inner CV joint. I reinstalled the factory half shafts...smooth as butter, even with the lift. I have found most NAPA parts to be pretty good, but was amazed at how crappy these half shafts were. From now on I grab some from the yard and re-boot em.

http://www.offroadexpress.kiwi/Forums/viewtopic.php?t=36606 I would take the advice from the post above and go with the FS5R30a which is behind all v-6s in the US. The good news is if you have the bell housing (front section on a FS5R30a) of the manual transmission of your engine you can take place that onto the center section of the transmission. This requires disassembling the transmission case and is not hard at all, but get the factory service manual.

Yup, I did it....posting on a thread over 10 years old. But I HATE it when I search for something and the answer is not clearly there (this came up in a google search): 24 spline - 4 cyclinder transfer case 30 spline - v6 transfer case including the VQ35DE 2001-2004 pathfinders that do not have AWD TX14A. How these apply to the diesels, I do not know but count your splines for TX10 cases.

Raincoat:. Nope I have been pulling the battery, that's the problem... thanks. Jjonz, it was the front passenger door switch. Dome lights, auto headlights function normally. Now if I could just adjust the auto headlights off delay.

I did not add spacers to the top of my struts. I have a spring lift but I like to keep my hubs locked. I like being able to engage 4x4 without getting out of the vehicle and in high speed situations like the flood we had last weekend. I only dropped it 3/4", did not interfere with anything. That spacer kit without lowering the subframe (can't drop the diff alone that low) is going to leave some poor fool stranded. That being said, if you know how to build the subframe drops that spacer kit can save you a lot of money. It is a great deal but needs a huge disclaimer.

4.56 and 4.63 will work fine, I had that setup but 4.88 and 4.9 works much better. Get a rear chunk from an 03-04 Xterra for your 4.9 gears on the cheap.