system_f

Old post, but adding some info here for future users. I have a PO1140, this happened after I put new rings and bearings in my engine. This code is for the bank 1 (passenger side) cam position sensor voltage high or to ground. This is NOT a knock sensor code for a 2002 Nissan pathfinder with the VQ35DE. Here are my troubleshooting steps, followed FSM steps: 1. checked power to sensors - good 2. Checked wires from each sensor to pins 79 and 89 on the PCM, 79 is for the PO 1140, 89 for PO 1145. Both wires good, no shorts not broken 3. Bought on oscilloscope, checked wave form at each sensor based on FSM outputs listed, all good wave forms looked good 4. Purchased a new sensor just in case, rechecked wave form, it was inverted....great quality parts. Went back to old sensor. 5. Checked Wave form at PCM with engine running (Obviously) and all was good, matched FSM 6. At this point as a hail-mary I switched the inputs, so that bank 1 was looking at a known good bank 2 sensor and vice versa, still got a PO1140. Without a doubt this proves the transistor in the PCM for Bank 1 has a problem or that there is something wrong with my PCM. New one is on order with IOMMU and new key...pain in the butt. I was there was a way to disable this freaking chipped key crap, and NO I am not taping the key to the IOMMU module, I want it actually disabled. I think i can at least program these keys with my scan tool. The FSM warns about testing a certain way that could blow this transistor, I did not do any tests that would have blown this transistor, but I did have some electrical issues when reinstalling the engine that could have caused this problem within the PCM. Will report if the new PCM fixes it and I sure as hell hope it does because I need to pass inspection and get a sticker.

You had me at "Diesel"...

Yours brings back memories. My 2002 R50 CAN do 80, 81 , 82, 83, even 85 mph with a roof top tent into a 15mph wind. VQ is sooo nice as long as you don't have to mess with the lower alternator bolt.

I just realized this may be a 2wd R50, I forgot they even made those, in which case there are other options....but why would you lift it? When I lifted above about 4" I had to drill/tap the output shaft of my transfer case, order a special driveshaft (from Tom Woods) with a double cardian joint at the transfer case and a single U-joint at the pinion, they took my slip splines from my old driveshaft and built me a slip yoke eliminator, then I had to angle the pinion (I had adjustable links) so that it was pointing at the transfer case output. All in I spent about $500, but it was worth every penny. A complete night and day difference. With the 2" lift that I have now the stock driveshaft u-joints are at <5 degrees angle, which is fine and much less expensive.

I cut the factory step rail off and left its mounts bolted to the vehicle. then I put a piece of 2x2 3/16" thick piece of square tube up against the cut off mounts and welded it up. once i had that, I reinforced it further and did the weld on braces. The driver's side has two weld location points and the passenger side has three because the gas tank isn't in the way. No pictures, just imagine placing some angle on the "frame" and running square tube from it to the inner slider rail.

tymbits: the catch can helps to remove oil vapor from the pcv blow-by gasses before they get sucked back into the intake and burned. I am not sure how much oil I am burning, I don't think much at all. If you have excessive blow by this will help to keep the intake clean and help with burning that oil. This will not help with oil consumption caused by bad rings. Just to make sure there is no confusion about what I did, my front diff drop is only 3/4" . I just needed a little bit to ease the CV angles but not so much as to reduce ground clearance. Finally I finished my sliders. I purchased a new welder over the weekend and a tubing bender and decided to give tube bending a try. I thought about purchasing the sliders made for our vehicles, but I didn't want to attach to the pinch seam...yes I know it works, it is how my friends WJ sliders attach, but my experience with sliders has proven that weld-on is very skookum. The sliders are welded to the "frame" section of the unibody with 3/16" 3" by 4" angle iron. And now the big WIN. I had driveline vibration from the rear driveshaft that was driving me mad. Above 67 mph (indicated) the vibration was annoying, and driveshaft u-joint angles are less than 5 degrees so there is no need for a high angle driveshaft. I suspected the rear driveshaft was the problem even though i had it balanced and rebuilt. The other day I decided to remove the rear driveshaft from the equation so I picked up an Xterra rear shaft. Before installing the Xterra shaft I cleaned the rear diff pinion flange thoroughly , there may have been some binding here. All of my driveline vibrations are now gone, problem solved. Before I take the rear driveshaft back to the shop that balanced it I am going to reinstall it just to be sure there wasn't a problem with the pinion flange.

I purchased two brand new half shafts from Napa after I installed my lift. They vibrated so badly the vehicle was undriveable with the front hubs locked. With the wheel at full droop on jack stands it was almost impossible to turn the half shafts, you could see the binding on the inner CV joint. I reinstalled the factory half shafts...smooth as butter, even with the lift. I have found most NAPA parts to be pretty good, but was amazed at how crappy these half shafts were. From now on I grab some from the yard and re-boot em.

http://www.offroadexpress.kiwi/Forums/viewtopic.php?t=36606 I would take the advice from the post above and go with the FS5R30a which is behind all v-6s in the US. The good news is if you have the bell housing (front section on a FS5R30a) of the manual transmission of your engine you can take place that onto the center section of the transmission. This requires disassembling the transmission case and is not hard at all, but get the factory service manual.

Yup, I did it....posting on a thread over 10 years old. But I HATE it when I search for something and the answer is not clearly there (this came up in a google search): 24 spline - 4 cyclinder transfer case 30 spline - v6 transfer case including the VQ35DE 2001-2004 pathfinders that do not have AWD TX14A. How these apply to the diesels, I do not know but count your splines for TX10 cases.

Raincoat:. Nope I have been pulling the battery, that's the problem... thanks. Jjonz, it was the front passenger door switch. Dome lights, auto headlights function normally. Now if I could just adjust the auto headlights off delay.

I did not add spacers to the top of my struts. I have a spring lift but I like to keep my hubs locked. I like being able to engage 4x4 without getting out of the vehicle and in high speed situations like the flood we had last weekend. I only dropped it 3/4", did not interfere with anything. That spacer kit without lowering the subframe (can't drop the diff alone that low) is going to leave some poor fool stranded. That being said, if you know how to build the subframe drops that spacer kit can save you a lot of money. It is a great deal but needs a huge disclaimer.

4.56 and 4.63 will work fine, I had that setup but 4.88 and 4.9 works much better. Get a rear chunk from an 03-04 Xterra for your 4.9 gears on the cheap.

Run a leak down test you can actually see what is causing the problem. I would do headwork to these engines, but step 2ß after you remove the negative battery cable should be to pull the engine. This is an excellent example of a leak down test with a smoke machine. Before the smoke he couldn't determine the cause of the leak.

You can drop the diff easily by dropping the subframe and keeping the engine at normal height it just requires a steering shaft. No matter what I am doing with this vehicle the start/alternator/power steering pump and associated hoses and wires were not designed with easy service in mind and the engine compartment is packed like a disorganized orgy of wires and hoses. But the power...oh the power of the VQ. Knowing what I know now about how the VQ drives....VG what?

I am going to take back a little of what I said about the R50. One thing I have noticed is that R50s look really good. They have great lines similar too and better than a 3rd gen 4 runner. The 4th gen 4 runner is one ugly pig as is the jeep Grand Cherokee of similar vintage (2002) Even my best friend who owns a Grand Cherokee loves the way my R50 looks.

[Rant on] Nissan didn't make it easy on us. Long ago I was a huge hater of Toyotas until I owned my 2017 Taco 6spd. That thing had TONS of room in the engine bag, superior front suspension to all but the latest Nissan trucks and diffs that wouldn't blow up if you looked at them wrong (they were also steel housings). This VQ motor is superior to what a 2002 4 Runner had, but that's it. We are very limited with our front suspensions and there is no aftermarket. I will take my VQ and its disastrous engine bay, my 17 taco had room for 3 batteries under the STOCK engine bay and better aftermarket than Jeep. I can live without the aftermarket but damn Nissan....[/Rant on] In order to do a diff drop I had to cut the mounting points on the diff brackets and weld some steel in place to drop the mounting points by 3/4". The bottom of my diff still sits just above the front subframe lower rail, but the CV angle is much better. This worked so well I would like to get some junkyard brackets and drop it down more like 1.25" Of course, this hasn't been tested. They could fail causing the world to stop and life as we know it to end, but I will take my chances.

Next up: -Winch mount that integrates with factory front bumper, looks like I have the room and until I can fab something that is a near perfect ARB clone this is what I am doing. -I purchased the steel to start the camping trailer. I also had the Pathfinder weighed: Front Axle: 2450 - my weight was entirely on the front axle pad (180lbs) Rear Axle: 2250 - 1/2 tank gas, had the slides and my storage system in the back including recovery gear. Total was 4700, not too bad, but a bit heavier than expected without armor.

I hope everyone had a good holiday. It feels like I did nothing but work on the Pathfinder. I finally got fed up with the oil leak and did the oilpan gasket/re-did the clutch. What a pain in the ass that was. That will teach me not to re-seal an engine before I install it. Here is a list of what I accomplished: -Oil pan gasket - rear seal was NOT leaking, the lip below the housing was leaking. -New clutch, oil on the clutch was NOT the problem, the pilot bushing was defective. -Valve cover gaskets -New radiator <- insurance -Rear storage system and fridge slide-out completed -Fixed PO570, don't get a zip tie stuck between the upper and lower plenum. -Dropped front diff 3/4" which allows me to leave the hubs locked on the highway with little to no vibration. The rear seal can only be replaced by removing the oilpan. I tried to get away with jamming that gasket between the oil pan and rear seal housing which was absolutely stupid. This job would have gone much easier with the engine out of the vehicle. Although I love the VQ35DE, damn if it isn't a pain to work on. The alternator bolt's nut requires an entire story. The slides are rated for 150lbs each and slide out a full 36". At first I debated on getting the ARB slide because I love the quality of their products and it is ready to go, but this turned out being about 1/2 the cost and a bit more skookum. Damn the VQ's PCV hose. I pulled the upper intake to get a good hose on the PCV and afterwards was getting a PO570 "Idle speed higher than expected". I knew there was a vacuum leak but couldn't find it. So I figured it was a good time to properly install my PCV catch can, valve cover gaskets and a new PCV valve. Upon disassembly I found this and was relieved. Now I need your help. I am having some strange problems and I think they are all related to the Smart Entrance Control Unit, but am not sure. Please read the list of problems and what I have done. Problems: -Sunroof opens 2" at a time then stops, If I keep hitting the open button it will open all the way, but only goes about 2" before stopping again. - Interior light does not shut off when left in "door" position -When locking the vehicle sometimes the parking lights flash, sometimes they don't -When headlights are on auto mode they never shut off after the doors are closed and vehicle locked. -Alarm randomly goes off at night <- this sucks for my neighbor and need to fix this. What I have done: - checked smart entrance control 7.5amp power fuses, both good -checked that the doors are closed and door open lamp is off...maybe I have a bad door switch??? The only thing I can find that relates to all of these problems is the Smart Entrance Control Unit?? Anyone have any experience with this?

Dual swing out tire carrier is done. I thought about building a full bumper but wanted to keep the factory look of the vehicle as much as possible. I have to figure out what to do to pretty-up the hinge holes in the bumper plastic, but other than that it is done. The latch I had to order from Amazon, works perfectly. I used an axle shaft off my old Pathfinder as the wheel mount. I don't care for the look but I like the nostalgia and it is hidden when the tire is attached. These are the best hinges I have found. Double shear, nice bearings and have the nice lockout feature when open. I didn't get a rear facing shot, but I did get a side shot. I can still use the review mirror and see out of the back due to the tire being offset on the passenger side. The driver side swing-out is going to get some rotopax cans and other goodies when I can afford it. The next items on the to-do list are: -Pull transmission/tcase and drop subframe for oilpan gasket/rear seal/oil soaked clutch <- this is going to be the SUCK...maybe over xmas holidays. -Fix the rear passenger fender extender -Build slid out for fridge -Build sleeping area in the back and storage area -Lights Lights and more lights, need lights For the future: I want to go back to having an off-road trailer and I am going one of two ways: Go all out and build a sleep in (tear drop style) trailer that weighs less than 2500lbs or build a roof top tent trailer that weighs less than 1000lbs. I am leaning towards the tear-drop style sleep in with a spot for the roof top tent on top. This sounds like a good excuse to become proficient at aluminum welding. The rooftop tent weights 125, tires and wheels about 180, axle about 45 , and at least 15 gallons of water 120 so that is a start off weight of 485.

Although the trails were VERY easy and overland-ish there were some interesting spots and a little bit of carnage. My rear passenger fender is going to require some re-working to get fitment without tire rubbing. I slid off a rock and the stock aluminum step on the driver's side is done...that was only a matter of time. The Colorado winters won, and my rear exhaust flange finally let go. New exhaust is waiting to be installed. Now let's talk about oil leaks. My rear seal (probably the housing and not the seal) is leaking so bad it caused the clutch to make some WONDERFUL noises. Unfortunately I will be dropping the subframe, oilpan, transmission and t-case to get this all fixed. You cannot replace the rear seal and housing without first removing the oilpan. Lesson learned, now it is time to pay my dues to the car-gawds.

We had a fun trip over Thanksgiving weekend in West Texas. Here is the video (the song was an inside joke for the weekend):

????

Make sure you do the oilpan gasket and rear seal while the engine is OUT or leave it completely alone. I am having to go back and and drop the subframe just to get the oil pan out. Not a huge deal, but a DOH! moment when you realize the engine was on a stand several months ago. USE THE FSM FOR THE OIL PAN GASKET!! FOLLOW IT TO THE LETTER!

4x4parts springs. Never should have sold that, hind sight is 20/20

95 % was the front CVS, manual hubs fixed it. I still have vibs above 70 that are minor. They feel like they are coming from the front end, but I am not sure. I just ordered front and rear arbs lockers with the bigger arb compressor as a backup air source for tires. When I do the front locker I will do CVS, if I don't find anything up front causing the vibs I will focus on the rear ( or mount some go pros and do some drive tests to see what I see). If it ends up being rear driveshaft I will order a Tom woods shaft with a double cardiam up front, have them build me a slip yoke eliminator and out adjustable upper links in to aim the pinion at the tcase. I did this on the caR50 and the rear end vibs completely disappeared.