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Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST

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  1. There ya go, x ray vision. Im pretty sure this is what you needed? 3 plastic pins. in ths first pic the female part is still stuck on to 2 of the pins. now you know where to put the trim popper tool. pic is from my endless pathy parts boxes
    2 points
  2. Pulled mine into the garage for the winter. I've committed myself to a DIY restore of the thing. So that will start with replacing the crunched in drivers rear quarter behind the tire. Had another member here slice the part off of their parts rig so hopefully that goes okay. I will post pictures of course.
    1 point
  3. It is the door lock timer box itself. Mine did it as well. Only in the cold weather, it was due to the solder joints cracking on the board. I re flowed the solder on them and never had another problem. IIRC it is behind the panel in the drivers side cargo area. Just have someone actuate the locks and you'll hear it.
    1 point
  4. Ya, Dumb. Literally, with all of the 30yo plastic in this thing that is cracking/breaking, in many instances, I'm not going to take it apart if I don't have to It seems, based on my reading of other things, the California models do have the light and label.... probably causes cancer too...
    1 point
  5. Bank 1 is usually determined by the location of cylinder 1. Sensor 1 is Pre-catalytic and sensor 2 is after. I just took an old socket and cut a notch out of the side, and filed down the edge. EDIT: NO IM WRONG. it is bank 2 on the VQ but its still determined by the 1st cylinder
    1 point
  6. Redesigned the bumper tubing and finally added the rally lights. Super stoked right now
    1 point
  7. Plus a few more pics because why not Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point

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