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That will be KYB struts

The parts that would be hard to fix aren't the parts you can see in the pictures. It obviously needs a bumper, a fender, and some work on the core support. Can't tell if the suspension, inner fender/strut tower, cooling system, or subframe are messed up. Check the alignment. Engine bay looks clean. Worth checking when the timing belt was done last. If it was done at the recommended mileage, it's about ready for another one.

I have around 130,000 miles on my 2003 A/T 4WD SE. It started around 6 months ago, I don't drive it regularly, but sometimes I turn the key and it does not start. If I turn off and then try again, it starts. I don't have Check Engine light on. I searched and it could be Ignition Switch. I'm eager to replace it, I guess it's not a big deal but only thing that worries me is if I need to reprogram key after that. Open to other suggestions as well.

Progress has been very slow. Kids' sports in full swing and I started a new job at the beginning of April. New focus had been getting my Frontier back into commuter mode. I'm dropping off a set of LE wheels for refinishing and powder coating in the morning, and new rubber by the end of the week. It should look fantastic...it better be for what I'll be paying. Since last update, I built a new bracket and re-slung the engine. I didn't like that I could only use one bolt on it due to space limitations, but it creates a cantilever that holds fine. The intermediate piece is bar stock from the WJ steering shaft after I cut it down. View from the bottom... Engine hasn't fallen to the floor yet, so it must be good enough. I also mulled considerably on the radius arm brackets. Wanted to get caster adjustment since the optimal angle varies depending on who you ask. OE caster is 3°±0.75°, but the straight axle community says 4°-8°. So, I'm targeting 5°, and the caster adjustment I did gives me ±2° range. The final brackets... My craptastic welding. Old Blue in the background to distract you. And finally, actual results... Finding the right caster (or really, camber bolts turned 90°) was a pain. The front FJ bushings use 16mm bolts, and the only 16mm caster/camber bolts I could find were the lobe style we use for camber adjustment on our struts, but they were all just a little too short. Anything else I could find that used a cam washer was 14mm and too long, except ones for a late-80's to early-00's GMC/Chevy trucks and vans which were a good length but still 14mm bolts. I ended up using 14mm ID x 16mm OD sleeve bushings to fill the void. Took some effort to get the slotting sorted to make the adjustment work, but they work great. Other hardware being used is OE Toyota. I did not do a very good job of maintaining spacing on the brackets for the bushings. I had scrap bushings from a prior job to swapping out bushings on FJ arms, and used them as spacers, but the welding still tightened up on them. I was able to coax them to width without angling them out, except for the lower panhard mount. Just needed to grind down the sleeve for a few seconds and it's good to go, though.

Anecdotally, I run KYB struts with OME springs and the ride is really nice.

Sorry it's taken me awhile to get back, thanks for the tips! I did (i think) run my finger along the edge/use a mirror and flashlight to try and see what is mostly likely seepage. (I have a UV light...somewhere...tried it to find a similar leak on my frontier, but never saw the "bright green spots", so gave up on it, plus I'm too lazy to look for it again!) I think I'm gonna replace the passenger's side first, see if my approach works before tackling the driver's side. Are these "bulging areas" of any concern? Should the NEW gasket conform and fill in any gaps? (I did replace these MANY moons ago, and the last time I drove this thing 3+ years ago, I don't recall them leaking (it's smoking BAD now), but it has been sitting for 3 years!)

When you say "turn the key, it doesn't start" do you hear the starter motor turning or no sounds at all? If the starter is turning but the engine doesn't start then it's of course not the starter. If there's no sound at all (maybe just a click from the relay) then it could be the starter. My 2003 has around 160k miles and the starter had clearly been repaired before. My symptoms were "turned key, relay clicked but starter didn't spin. Kept the key in the starting position and after about 20 or 30 seconds the starter came back to life and engine started right up". That delay was getting worse so it was only a matter of time before the car left me stranded. Replaced ignition switch, that did nothing so I replaced the starter motor and it was as good as new.

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Really sad news guys. Andrew, who goes by @Dbot on here, has passed away. Prayers and condolences to his family. https://www.news-leader.com/story/news/local/2024/04/15/andrew-hendrix-killed-car-crash-near-lake-springfield/73329149007/