hawairish

Well, this weekend was very productive. Wasn't able to roll it out, but we're getting close. Last update I mentioned the axle was being done. It's officially done and back on the truck. The bulk of the weekend was getting the axle back under the truck and slowly completing the final assembly. Right now, everything's torqued down and ready to go. Axle's centered, thing's aligned as best as I can get them with my eyechrometers. Got it to the point where the truck is resting on the axle, and tires were slapped on for a while. Still needed to tweak the steering stabilizer a bit. I finished up the mount v3 today and it's finally in a position where I don't think it's going to contact anything. Also figured I'd work on the center caps while some parts baked (powder coating). Limit straps, driveshaft adapter, and custom brake lines delivering tomorrow, among other small goodies. Been waiting on the brake lines to start the ring and pinion swap in the rear, so hopefully I get started on that mid-week.

Absolutely!

Alright, bit of an update... First off, I did not meet my goal of having it rolling by the end of Feb. Maybe this weekend, we'll see. Right now, the axle has been removed from the truck for hopefully the last time. Pulled it off to finish welding the bump stop pads, steering stabilizer mount, whatever touch-ups, and then paint. To that extent, axle work is DONE! Will get some pics when it's daylight. The last couple weeks have been super busy. Almost every day and/or night that I can. Updates... Finished the air conversion for the sway bar disconnect. Big thanks again to @TowndawgR50 for making the piston rod and all his support on this project! Have yet to test it on the truck (my OBA setup has been pulled for re-work) but it's ready to go. Not sure I showed this previously, but I made it so that I don't have to pull parts from the engine bay to access the strut tower/mount hardware any more. Now I can just unbolt the upper coilover mount from underneath. Maybe one day I'll pursue a strut tower brace. Finished the brake caliper mounts! Well...almost. Still need to powder coat the RH side, but the LH side is done. This f$kc!ng pic just reminded me right now that I forgot to grind the knuckle for clearance to install the lower caliper bolt, which I needed to switch out to socket bolts due to the space. Well, guess that's happening tomorrow and some repainting... ... I did have a bit of a setback with the power steering setup. I was mocking up the steering stabilizer and had the truck running with the wife turning the wheel so I could change for clearances. *SPLOOSH* ATF spraying all over. The aftermath... After assessing the failure, I deemed it operator error on two faults: Despite being as gentle as I could to push the braided sheathing back using a small screwdriver per instructions, I must've weakened the PTFE liner enough. I must've pushed the braids too far back with insufficient overlap on the ferrule. So, I can tell you that ATF absolutely sucks to clean up. It is a nasty, nasty chemical. (And for those wondering, yes, I am using ATF as my power steering fluid...it's what is spec'd.) That $hit got everywhere. I cleared the space out and power washed the engine and concrete shortly after this happened and the engine is still dropping ATF in spots...and I only worsened the mess during the repair process. I can't wait to get the truck out of the garage to really hose it down! Anyway, I ponied up for a proper tool from JEGS that pushes the braid down uniformly and to the correct depth. I was reluctant to drop $50 initially, but I paid the price and then some for not getting it in the first place. I pulled all the lines (two; four fittings total) to inspect and redo them. My original fitting installs were showing a little bit of fatigue that likely would've let to failure again. I have a little more confidence this time around having used the tool. Here's the new line, shown on the concrete where the spill occurred as indicated by the silhouette where my foam mat was. This was the direction the steering stabilizer was heading before the busted line: After doing all the other work on steering angles and such, this is basically the only place I had left to mount it. It hangs about as low as the axle tube, so it's not really eating any more ground clearance, but it will likely be the first thing to be struck. I tried to keep the brackets simple, and while this piece worked great, the plate came too close to the diff cover for my liking. I went with a different design that rotates the plate around (the u-bolts have plenty of clearance) and allows me to slide the bracket a couple inches towards the passenger side just in case. Pics to follow. ... I received my front driveshaft! Ebay special for $300, custom length for my project, intended for "hack-n-tap" Jeep applications where they do a slip-yoke eliminator (SYE). Double-cardan unit with a probably generic Spicer 211229X/Neapco N2-83-388X flange and uses Spicer 1310 series u-joints. The TX10 flange is equivalent to Spicer 2-2-1309. They're fairly similar, dimensionally, but an adapter is needed. I fired up my CNC router to make a mock-up adapter based on Nissan Nut's version. He pockets one side to hide the hardware used to attach it to the TX10, and then has threaded holes bolts to attach the Spicer flange to it. I eventually realized either it's not a good design, or I still can't understand half the stuff he writes. Probably both. There's not really a good way to get a wrench on those bolts. Use of socket bolts wouldn't be much easier. (I came up with what I think is a better design, discussed below.) As far as clearances go, this should do nicely! Clearance over my crossmember is perfect. At full compression, there's "enough" clearance under the sway bar. This is what full compression would look like (I didn't have the bump stop pads welded on, but you can see I'm nearly maxed on the coilover), but I will be limiting compression beyond what is shown in this pic, so my max compression will be less than this. After confirming the driveshaft fitment and clearance is good, I went back to thinking about the adapter and bastardized my v1 to make it v2: This actually uses rear wheel studs for the truck and the leftover axle shaft studs from when I did the disc brake swap. The lengths on these not only end up being perfect, but they're the same size and thread as the OE hardware for both the TX10 flange and the H233B flange, so I've got new OE hardware on order to replace everything (I still need to pull the rear diff to swap gears). This adapter will be 3/4" thick, with 1/4" pockets for the stud heads. Master TownDawg will be producing the finished piece from aluminum, since neither of us are convinced redwood is a suitable material. And unrelated to the SAS, I bought new terminals and really like them. I made something similar using replacement lugs and terminals, but this is way cleaner and better for some of the stuff I need terminals for. Ok, that's it for now. Getting closer to having it back to being on the ground.

Thanks fellas! Yeah, it's a big push right now and I'm stressing about it a bit. My next "Brodeo" trip with the guys is coming up early April and we're off to Moab again, so this has to be on the road ASAP, particularly to get it through emissions, registration renewed, and of course, at least one shakedown run...hopefully two. Current goal is to have it able to roll under power by the end of this weekend, but it won't be streetable quite yet. I still need to do the bump stop pads, limit straps, steering stabilizer, and a front driveshaft, but I can at least move it out of the garage without those. More to come soon!

Lots of progress since my last post! Got the caliper brackets designed and ready. Waiting on some hub rings to center up the rotors before welding them up; should have them done later this week. More pics when they're done, but here's the idea. Sway bar tab welded on. Thinking I'm might go with the H3 end links instead of the Mustang ones, so I had to weld the tab a bit lower to clear the caster bolts. The big news from the weekend was that I finished up the power steering system! I decided to use most of the low-pressure line all the way to the reservoir. It was becoming too much of a challenge figuring out where to route hoses, especially factoring in the cooler. But, works out great. I picked up some new OEM hoses off the reservoir from Japan to really freshen things up. This pressure sensor was a bit of a thorn to deal with. The ECU uses it to idle-up the engine when high-side pressure increases enough. Nissan uses an M12x1.25 thread on the sensor, so I needed an adapter. There wasn't really a good way to mount it, so I made a bracket with some angle iron and found a convenient way to tuck it out of the way without needing to relocating the wiring too much. Everything's pretty tidy...as tidy as I can get it. I have ample clearance from moving parts, but did need to shim the air box up about 1/4" to give a tad more space around the high pressure fitting. It's tight, but it's going to work just fine. The final highlight is that I got everything back into the engine bay and fired up the engine! It's been over a year since it ran. 1st try, it didn't do anything. Click. 2nd try, click. 3rd try...fired up! Rough start, and sounded awful. Bad tapping/ticking noise. I figured it was from just dry lifters from sitting for so long, but I had a gut feeling that maybe somehow I screwed up the timing when I changed the water pump. Shut it off. 4th try, less noise, still a little tick, but otherwise smoothed out soon after. At that point, I played with the power steering and topped off the reservoir. Power steering works and no leaks! In other news... Ordered a built-to-length double cardan driveshaft and am waiting on it. I'll need @TowndawgR50's machining magic to make an adapter to mate it with the TX10 output flange. I spent some time exploring other options, but that seems to be the best approach, which is also the approach Nissan Nut recommended. Towndawg's already got a box in the mail for me with some off-the-shelf aluminum hub centering rings that have been machined to be custom fit for the project. They'll center up things nicely and allow me to finish the caliper brackets. Also anxious to get the remaining parts for the sway bar disconnect.

Just repled to you, @M_a_D. I'll post up some dimensions in the coming weeks when I have a bit more time. Need to get the SAS done!

Those are the OME HDs, FYI.

That's very unfortunate. But sounds about right. Don't the TMs still have a lifetime warranty?

Not sure if there are many converted owners here who've specifically jumped to the V8 given how brief that option in the R51 was. Hopefully someone can weigh in better. But the main things to know about the R51 that might help the decision is that its front suspension is practically identical to the IFS of the D40 Frontier and N40 Xterra, but has rear independent suspension (IRS) like that of Nissan RWD/AWD cars. The R51 is essentially on a truck frame but with IRS...sort of a flop of what the R50 was with its car-like IFS and rigid rear axle on a unibody (and practically identical drivetrain to all Nissan trucks at the time). The R51 suspension is a significant departure from the R50 suspension, much like the R50 was to the WD21. We're not even going to discuss the last two generations. That said, and having no personal experience, I'll speculate that the R51 will likely fall right in between both your vehicles in terms of size and road comfort. The only way to confirm will be to test drive the one nearby. In terms of your adventures, the R50 IFS will be as much of a restriction as the R51 IRS. Both are poorly supported, too, but one upside to both applications is the use of rear coil springs and availability of inner-spring air bags to improve ride quality a bit if needed.

The VIN plate says VG33DE? All R50s were made in Japan, so nothing rare about that.

Today had enough progress that it deserved its own comment. After spending a couple weeks designing a few ideas that gave me some adjustability, decided the other day to just get on with it and make a static mount in what I seemed like the right spot. Pretty straight-forward at this point. This is the first mock-up with a tire...finally! There's so much space in there, that it makes the 2.0 coilovers seem puny. But hey, no more farting around with the stupid coil bucket on the McPherson strut! There's about 4" of space between the springs and tires, and about 2-3" from the inner fender. The first two pics in this post show a different attachment method, but this will be the end result. There will be a strut 'ring' atop the strut tower with bolts welded in, then the coilover mount attaches from underneath. This way I won't need to remove all the crap above the strut towers to change anything. After getting the mounts all welded up, I decided to see if the spring selection was the right one. So, time to see if it can support itself! Ride height compression... And so, I have coilover mounts! Right now this is about 1.5" taller than I predicted. I'll eventually put a bumper and winch on to pull things down another 0.75" or so and hopefully they'll settle the rest. I can't lower it any more unless I change springs, so I'm going to see how this does. Overall, I'm satisfied. I'll eventually make some changes to the rear suspension to level things out better, but I think I'll have some squat for a while. Painted the steering links today, too. Panhard and radius arms refreshed with bushings and paint the other week. In this pic, the axle is supporting the truck, so I must be doing something right! The axle is at ride height so I have some pretty good clearance.

Couple updates since the last post... Got the Rubicon sway bar mounted. Still a few more things to do before that whole component is done, but for now, it's at least mounted. Awaiting some parts to finish the pneumatic portion of it, and need to make the mounts to attach the end links to the axle. The end links are from a late model Mustang, to add to the Frankenstein parts collection. Also finished the radiator shroud. Turned out well enough, I suppose. Tasked my CNC router to make the ABS panel and then spent some time heating it into shape before riveting it on. At this point, all the radiator is back in the truck and the engine is basically waiting for coolant. I'm waiting to do that until I figure out how I'm mounting the steering lines. Ordered new switches for the overhead console. Not sure who remembers, but a few years ago, I picked up an overhead switch console made for Patrols. I installed it in the truck long ago, but it's only had blank panels installed since. Looking forward to putting it to use, but not looking forward to redoing the wiring. I'll also be overhauling the pneumatic setup...and also dreading that, too. Got these from https://www.otrattw.net, except the ARB cover. Found sway bar "diconnect" switches all over the place, but since OTRATTW lets you customize the text, I just decided to make it spelled correctly. The remote air switch will be used for my tire inflation/deflation setup. Ordered all the power steering line kits and fittings. I have a pretty good idea how that's going to work, but still figuring out how I want to route the lines. No real update beyond that.

@Lock Glad you found this useful! No ban on posting links. Amayama is a great source for these and many other parts that are difficult to acquire or not available here. In fact, I actually have two open orders with them right now. I have purchased clutch pieces from them in the past, though at some point the supply was exhausted, particularly for the thicker pieces. Looks like there are many in the UAE at higher/normal costs, but it's the less expensive supply from Japan that was always questionable or long lead times. As for the ramp-angle LSDs, those were in Patrols. There's not really as much of a difference between those styles and these in terms of functionality, though. The spider gears in ours will apply outward force on the side gears to compress the clutch pack, because the clutch pack rests directly on the side gear. In the Patrol units, the clutch pack rests entirely on those inner housings, which compress the pack when the cross-shaft ramps up on them, which means the side gears might not exert significantly on the housing (or it's a combination of both). In both cases, there's varying outward force when differential action occurs. Might also be the case where less, but bigger, clutch pieces has about as much friction as more, but smaller, clutch pieces. Speculation in the absence of factory specs and dimensions. That all said, I'd surely rather have the Patrol units because of the beef factor they add, but I'd be curious to know if it's a drastically better solution that what we have available. Just another thing I wish they'd have here.

Fitting, no. Bulbs were in different locations and different lens colors, but I presume the bulb sockets and fitment into the housings were the same (might be able to swap the pigtails if the bulb sockets were different). Though I don't think you had the Infiniti models there (where there Regulus models there or was that just another Terrano trim?), the QX4 models here also fit all the same, except they lacked reverse lights, which were located on the liftgate around the license plate. You probably wouldn't want those, if they existed there.

There's definitely a snow-ball effect as you've noticed. The CVs see the most of the impact, though. One thing to check on the TrakMotives is at the bottom of the strut on full droop. Seen a few guys on FB end up busting the TMs, which they think is due to their angles after adding spacers, but to me it looks like they're contacting the strut body and then snapping. I had to run two sets of camber bolts to get close on my setup, but my setup was a little different anyway.

But then again...if you're buying OME, just buy them from somewhere else, otherwise you'll be paying for them to drop ship to FL for them to repackage and send to WA.

If you pony up for the $214 springs at AC, those are the OME springs. The $180 ones are the house brand. For the longest time, the OMEs were cheaper than the house brand...

Definitely can't beat the price of R50/QX4 out there vs. Toyota anything. Still, there are some other vehicles of that era that also have some decent support. Always liked the idea of getting a Trooper, Montero, or Montero Sport. Xterra got way more love than the Pathfinders did if you're wanting to dive into the Nissan world. Keep in mind that a spring lift has the same effect on CVs as torsion bar lifts. Both change the operating range/angles to one with higher oscillations but within the same suspension travel range (limited by LCAs). Subframe Drops (SFDs) were the best way to get lift and keep factory geometries. No personal experience with the AC springs, and it's been a common topic here, but since you mentioned "house" springs, you've probably seen discussions (likely from me) that AC sells OME springs without saying they're OME springs. The fact that they mask brands and repackage them is not a practice I support. But, they're pretty much the last company to support the platform.

QX4 and R50 are practically identical in every way. Key differences are generally the luxury items (interior trims, fancy headlight options), but everything else being the same. Biggest notable difference, specifically for 4WD models, is all QX4 have the full-time "all-mode" 4WD system, whereas only some Pathfinders have that system (generally the LE trim), with the rest getting a part-time system. The full-time system is all electrically actuated; shifting is done by a dial to select the drive mode between 2WD, Auto/AWD, and 4H/4L. Part-time system has a floor shifter. If you have no concerns with an electric transfer case, then you're good (you would want to do due diligence if a prospective purchase has any issues with the t-case; check for dash lights!). Suspension wise, they are identical with the exception of a few more vibration/noise/harshness items around the truck to help make it a "premium" ride. All parts are interchangeable. If you're new to the platform in general, the suspension is the biggest hang-up for it. Front McPherson struts make for a great ride, but also creates a complete lack of aftermarket support. Not even sure what's available these days beyond strut spacers to lift things. Old Man Emu front springs are the way to go if they're still available. A lot of people use a Land Rover springs for the rear. Overall, the drivetrain is solid in stock form. Very stout and practically identical to all Nissan trucks through 2005...and arguably stronger than anything Nissan produced after that. However, the R50/QX4 platform is an absolute bastard...Nissan made pretty much everything unique to the platform, despite being "identical" to other Nissan trucks/SUVs of the era. In a few ways it was actually better (high-pinion front axle, lower 4L gears in the all-mode transfer case), but at the same time, also worse because it's basically a one-off platform that no one supports. All said, QX4 is as great as any R50 because they're the same, but the platform at large may be limiting depending on what you want to do with it. If you think you'll want to modify it in terms of lifting or traction, I'd recommend looking elsewhere. Will it strand you? Probably not, unless you do something dumb. Notably, I've helped build up several of these trucks with lifts and lockers, including a sweet 02 QX4 that I'll see again in a few months, and can attest they're very capable vehicles. But I think the truck is long past its prime in terms of aftermarket support.

Can't say it's something I'd ever consider doing. That guy seemed to do a great job of figuring out where that hole needed to be. You're going to hate it if you miss the mark, though. Maybe if you're able to cut a large piece from a donor truck to use as a proper cover. This idea doesn't sit well with me. Your truck, of course. I'd sooner buy the transmission jack and drop it all down. Especially if you already have a leaking RMS. Changing the RMS is a bigger pain in the...

Dude...your reply struck a total déjà vu moment...except it really happened! In fact, exactly one year ago, I replied to a thread on the Club Frontier forum about this exact same issue where ATF was unbelievably dripping from wiring insulation. I had forgotten all about the leaking through the insulation, only recalling the general nature of the failure. While I was typing my reply there, the topic starter had posted that he found the same issue on the Club Xterra forum. All these trucks use the same transmission, of course. This post shows the failure at the tip of the sensor. So, my money's on that sensor. Unfortunately, if it is that sensor, it's not cheap and not easy to replace. Unfortunately, part two, I decided to crawl under my truck to see what plugs are visible to confirm if I could see what you see. I see that my harness also shows a layer of grime on it...which is highly unfortunate because I just had the transmission down in 2023 and didn't notice it.

Given the saturation, I'd say it's probably a sensor atop the transmission. There are no fluid lines in that area, so it has to be travelling down the loom. Guessing that's the only sign of saturation. There are two sensors on top. Hopefully it's the revolution sensor at the rear end of the transmission and not the turbine revolution sensor at the front of the transmission. Older/OE turbine revolution sensors had a rubber/plastic boot that can crack at the top and allow ATF to be expelled; replacing it requires dropping the transmission because the sensor is ridiculously long. The rear sensor is much shorter and more accessible, but also just uses an o-ring to seal. Keep in mind your transfer case uses ATF, too, and is in that area. Since you have the LE, you have the full-time ATX14A transfer case and I'm not sure what sensors exist there. Doubt it's the breather on top of the rear section of the case, but wouldn't hurt to inspect (it points in the wrong direction of your leak and likely not a factor unless you regularly park on an incline). If the ATX14A is like the TX10A at the tail of the case, the fluid line is relatively low in that area when the truck is level, and there's a baffle plate inside that prevents fluid from being slung directly into the tube. Of course, usually helps to power wash the area as best you can and try to see if/where a new leak/drip develops.

I need to be super clear that the level of work I've described so far was specifically to service the crossover pipe. That means I need to pull back most details about my experience because they will not be the same as yours if you need to replace your RMS. My apologies for not realizing or stating this earlier. That said... Replacing the RMS on this truck requires a SIGNIFICANT amount of effort and equipment. In my case, I had zero intentions of replacing it because I knew the amount of work it required. I intended to apply RTV to the exterior of the RMS to seal a minor leak I was aware of. If you're losing that much oil, this is surely not the option you'd take. To replace the RMS, we're talking about pulling the transmission, draining coolant and motor oil, dropping the front axle, slinging the engine, lowering the subframe, and splitting the engine. The factory service manual assumes you have access to a 2/4-post lift, a cherry picker/hoist, and a transmission or trolley jack. To your point, pulling the engine could be the home mechanic way to do this job...but not the best way. In essence, you need to support the engine from above while the subframe is lowered to provide space to drop the upper oil pan. I'm trying to finish a straight axle swap and for the last 10-11 months, I'd been using an engine support bar to suspend the engine, which is really all you need to do here. I thought I had a better pic, but you can find these at Harbor Freight or on Amazon. I got mine from Amazon for about $80 I think. I can tell you firsthand that slinging options on this engine absolutely suck. The factory sling points are in the dumbest locations, and you basically need factory slingers to even use them (one point is behind the power steering pump, which must be removed to access, but the points are tucked in an obscure spot...can't just put a bolt in and use it with chains; the driver's side spot is a little more accessible but also not usable with the support bar. There are no exposed bolt holes, no clear paths to wrap a strap around without compressing against coolant hard lines/pipes or wiring, nothing to chain to...it's absolute crap. In that pic, I made a plate that bolts where the power steering pump goes, but I eventually replaced it with one that attaches to the brackets that hold the motor mounts. My slingers are basically permanent fixtures on the engine at this point for future use. You could potentially make a sling plate that bolts onto the intake manifold (i.e., the actual manifold on the engine underneath the intake plenums), but frankly, I didn't like that option at all. You can drop the transmission without slinging the engine. And you probably should do this first to determine what part of the RMS is actually leaking. But with the engine slung, you can do all the work necessary to lower the subframe. You'll also avoid having to disconnect engine harnesses, detach the exhaust system, split the A/C, and many many other things...it will still be a lot of work, but it will save a lot of time and possibly money (recharging AC lines). If you're not familiar with the Factory Service Manuals, get familiar: https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals Drill down into Pathfinder > 2001 or 2001.5 > Engine Mechanical. In that chapter, start at with page EM-15. You'll quickly see the major steps that are involved. If you start with EM-37 you'll be very disappointed that Nissan makes the procedure look like it's 6 easy steps. Re: 2001 vs 2001.5...2001 was a split year. Your exact manual will depend on your truck's manufacture date (I don't know the cut off) but the procedures here should be the same. I recommend opening each link in a new browser tab, then clicking the "Click here to download a copy" link below each PDF inset on the page so that you can save all the PDFs to a local folder and reference later. I like to keep mine on a Google Drive share so I can pull them up whenever. The FSM site does not load well on mobile devices, if at all. And yes, the transmission must be removed to access the RMS. As is separating the upper oil pan from the block. The RMS is actually a seal within a housing ("retainer"). The seal cannot be removed like a conventional RMS on the truck because it is installed from the backside of the housing. As mentioned earlier, the seal itself does not tend to fail, but instead a seal on the perimeter of the housing. The housing uses both a paper gasket (engine block) and rubber strip/seal (upper pan) in addition to a bead of RTV all around. Given the volume of oil you're leaking, the rubber seal is surely compromised. I bought the Ultra Power set from Rock Auto because it include the rubber seal; I don't think the other ones (which only show the gasket) include the rubber seal. (If you need a replacement, send me a message and I'll send you the kit I have...I don't have a need for it at this point.)

That's a very helpful explanation! Honestly, I've never heard of a pull-type clutch like that. And very typical of Nissan to make this truck an absolute bastard in one more way (we already know this is the case with the R50...it shares practically NOTHING with any other VQ35DE model, except the exhaust manifold gaskets basically). Looking at pictures on RA for 02 R50s, I see what you mean. "Diaphragm style". Wild. I never knew. But yeah, that makes a lot more sense now. And that clutch literally only cross-refs to 01-02 R50. How stupid... Lastly, welcome to NPORA! Great info for an early post. As far as image hosting goes...there is none. If you want to post pictures here, you'll need to use a 3rd party image host and then link to it in the post (pasting a URL in the text field should auto load the image, similar to how I posted the RockAuto pic above).

You can access the water control valve and crossover pipe and gaskets with the transmission removed. That’s how I did it. It’s still a little tight, but you can tip the engine forward a small amount…as long as the mounts aren’t toast and it wants to just fall forward. However, there’s the RMS itself and a seal around the plate that holds the RMS. The failure point is usually the seal around the plate and not the RMS itself, which is what requires separating the upper oil pan (the black pan you see is the lower pan) from the block. To separate the upper pan and the block there’s a lot of other things that need to be loosened or removed. When I was in there to address my leak (not nearly as as bad as yours), I just slathered some RTV along the plate seal. As for pulling the engine instead and leaving the transmission in…I think pulling the transmission (and t-case) down is the easier route. That way to don’t have to disconnect all the electrical and exhaust stuff. Pulling the transmission just needs detaching the driveshaft, unplugging the harness pigtail, and detaching the ATF lines. Get a transmission jack.