hawairish

After polling some other SAS'd Pathfinder and Xterra owners on a Nissan SAS Facebook group, seems they stick with convention running 200 or 250 over 300 spring setups, yielding 120/300 and 136/300 dual rate setups, respectively. They (all 3 of them so far) seem to have good things to say about their setups, particular ride quality and the transition to the secondary rate. Of course, it's the coilover that does the work of ride quality. It may very well be the case that real-world experience beats number crunching. So if that's the case, I guess I'm rethinking (surely overthinking) the spring setup. Maybe Calmini's 300+300 setup is the way to go, since the R50 is a little bit heavier than the WD21 and WD22, and I presume most of that is due to VQ vs. VG.

Bonus post! (Long post...) Figure I'd keep this one separate from my last post since it's a pretty significant aspect of the project. Enough to warrant its own discussion. So, I bought a coilover. Just one, though. Going with a Fox 2.0 emulsion coilover. 10" travel (9.25" actual), 7/8" shaft. Fox seemed to be the best overall option...cost, parts availability, service availability (local). The thing I've learned is that each additional "feature" or upgrade on a coilover adds $50-$150 per shock. My "budget" Fox option was just under $300/ea, while the piggy back reservoir ones I wanted ran almost $500/ea. I'm seeing about 7" of vertical travel; 3" up and 4" down. Squeezing more up-travel would require lifting the truck more, and beyond the usefulness of using radius arms. Ride height should amount to about 7"-8" of lift from stock, which is still another 2"-3" above what I was running with the SFD. Numbers-wise, things are pretty much on target for my needs. Springs are the next thing I need to order (well, and another coilover...they only had one in stock at the site I went through at the time). I'll have a dual rate setup, which uses two springs, though it'll be unconventional setup I suppose. Rule of thumb is: The lower spring should be equal or longer in length than the upper spring. The lower spring should be equal or higher in spring rate than the upper spring. In a dual rate setup, there's a primary rate produced by both springs being in series, and then a secondary rate...which is just the rate of the lower spring because at some point, the upper spring will stop compressing. Problem with the conventional approach is that the secondary rate is always, at minimum, double the primary rate. For example, Calmini offered a 300 lb/in + 300 lb/in 10" coilover setup for their Xterra SAS kit. (This is about as best of a starting point as any considering the 1st Gen Xterra has almost the same curb weight as the R50 and loses and gains pretty much the exact same parts). A 300/300 spring set produces a 150 lb/in primary (it's not an average) and 300 lb/in secondary rate. But, that's what I don't like...the primary rate seems perfect, but then there's a 150 lb/in rate spike. Just seems like too much. I set some target rates around the stock numbers (150 lbs/in), OME numbers (200 lbs/in), and also on a few dual rate springs OME offered for similar vehicles. OME's dual rate gaps are closer to 40-120, which I'd like to think led to a far more comfortable ride setup (I do trust OME in this department). The only way to lower the gap is to put the heavier spring up top. So, that's probably what I'm going to do. Currently planning on a 9" 350 lb/in upper and 12" 250 lb/in lower. That'll give me a 146/250 setup. Notably, the OME MD setup for an FJ80 is 170/260, and 150/260 for a Pajero/Montero, which are fairly similar vehicles (FJ being a bit heavier). There's some other math involved, but I should be within the range I need to be. Unfortunately, if this approach flops, I'll learn a pretty valuable lesson about coilover springs. They're not cheap, but Summit has some options that'll shave a few bucks off.

One year later and I'm basically back where I started and am deciding to go a different direction... Just kidding. But damn, it's been a year as of yesterday. Year+ being a leap year, too. Progress lately has been great, though. If you didn't notice in the pic, the engine is now resting on the subframes as of last night. Pretty big milestone. This is how they turned out. Not sure if I explained it previously, but the subframes use the existing subframe attachments, but both sides also have a 1/2" bolt running perpendicular through the chassis rail (tubed holes), between the front u-bolts, to hold the subframe tight against the chassis rail. Driver's side has an additional support bracket welded to the plate on the inner rail near to create a rectangular bolt pattern with the u-bolt. This is all to bear the push-pull stress of having the panhard mount. The long bolts shown by the bump stops will be for the limit straps. For now, I've added some additional weld nuts to the lower perches so that I can build some sort of missing link and transmission pan skid plate when the time comes. Chopped up the fan shroud last night. Months ago I was hoping to heat and shape the shroud around the steering box, but that turned out like dogshyt. Going to rivet on some ABS sheet, should turn out a lot better. CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) process... This should help things run as cold as the Rockies. Other things done over the last two weeks, in no particular order: Radius arms torn down for bushing replacement and painting. Need to install new bushings. Water pump changed. Old pump seemed ok, but with the mild cooling issues I was having, this was one of two remaining things I had not replaced... Radiator mounts moved over a little...except after doing all the work, it feels like I didn't move them over at all. So that sucks, but the radiator is in a good spot. New radiator in. Two of two things I had not replaced. Still sorting out the power steering lines, but I basically have all the parts needed. Not sure I'll be able to route the line how I wanted, but I have some options. Went with a PTFE fuel line kit and 6AN fittings. Figuring out all I need has been a bit of a PITA, but I think I'm 95% of the way there in terms of parts. Rebuilt the power steering pump. I thought the thing was black, but after cleaning all the sludge that had accumulated on it over its life, I realized it was silver aluminum. Whoops. Tore apart the Rubicon sway bar the other week. A little sludgy inside, but it'll clean up well enough. Need to order the pneumatic bits to finish it up. New headlights and corner markers installed. The other ones just needed to go. Yellowing, cracks, etc. New ones look great. Cracked my washer fluid reservoir...mistook it for something to grab onto when trying to get off the ground. Fluid spilled on my cheap digital caliper, which wasn't good for it. I was more bummed by that chain of events than a grown man should be. Need someone to explain why washer reservoirs are $100...or $200 on ebay. That's a junkyard trip I wasn't hoping to make.

Everything you want can be found here for free: https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals "FSM" is for Factory Service Manual, and you can find them all published there. Note that for 93 WD21, the files there are apparently some other sort of procedural docs, but if you use the 94 WD21 files, those are the actual FSM pages. Torque specs are shown on parts diagrams throughout the section. Listing all torque specs isn't practical, but the FSM does also have a torque table in the General Information (GI) chapter that's based on bolt specs. That'll be your best table if you just need generic numbers.

Replied to your post about the MT swap. What do you want to do with yours once that's sorted? It's a great platform overall, but severely hampered by aftermarket support.

It's not a common swap mainly because manual transmission 2000+ trucks weren't common, at least not in the US. More common in Canada. That said, you'll struggle to find parts or a suitable donor...unless your 2000 happens to have the 3.3L? (Also not common, but Nissan did dumb things near model changes/end-of-runs.) Presuming you can find parts, probably wouldn't be difficult to do the swap. The ATs have a block-off plate where the clutch master would go, but on 00+, the center consoles integrated with the dash console, so if you want a clean look, then you're basically looking to bring over the entire dash, too. At that rate, might as well just look for an MT-equipped truck. As for the rebuilding/repairing the transmission...probably no shortage of donors out there, and pulling the transmission down isn't terrible with hand tools and a transmission jack.

Echoing 100% what Slartibartfast described and suggested. It would also help to know what voltage and/or resistance you were seeing at temperature because the FSM also specs a range. The table there only shows two reference points (3.5V/2.3-2.7kΩ @ 68°F, 2.2V/0.79-0.90kΩ @ 122F), but as I imagine NY is a bit colder than 68°F this time of year, you'll need to confirm resistance at ambient temp against the resistance chart, whether it's in acceptable range, and that the resistance decreases as the sensor warms up...measuring while submerged in tap water will suffice. I do suspect the sensor is fine, though, so you need to check resistance on both legs of the circuit as Slart described. FSM has the pin locations and troubleshooting steps. Good luck!

Agreed, if only a spring lift, any CV ought to be fine. The Trakmotives have been a reoccurring topic on a few of the Pathfinder FB forums, but a few guys have broken them, too, because they end up contact the bottom of the strut...but that scenario seems limited to guys who run spacers and take the "full send" approach to wheeling. The additional length doesn't really matter at all. The additional angles help if you run spacers.

Thanks! It's definitely been a challenge being a unibody, but not too bad...in some ways, it's been great, actually. Like being able to drop the subframe and everything's just ready to go. No luck on upgraded radiators. I spent a lot of time looking at potential units that might've opened up options for e-fans, or at least free up some space for the gear box. The WD21/22 units were on the radar because they share all the port sizes and similar enough dimensions, but the bottom port is on the wrong side for me. I settled on a OE-replacement CSF unit a few months ago, though. I'm waiting on a fan bearing assembly before I replace the water pump in hopes it's the last thing I need to sort the mild overheating issues I was having previously. Once that's addressed, I can start buttoning up the engine and then relocate the radiator.

Actually, it wasn't even on the radar until that night. I've thought about it in the past on a whim long before this project started, but that's about it. I was just content getting that regular sway bar to work, and figured next steps were disconnect links. Totally happy with this new direction.

Went down a rabbit hole last night to see what my options for sway bar end links looked like. It went like this: These disconnect sway bar options kind of suck. Oh look, Google Ads. There's a pneumatic kit that's somehow relevant. Oh neat, it converts the electric JK Rubicon sway bar disconnect system to pneumatic. Interesting. There's even a kit to make it manually operated? Cool, I guess that's convenient...but for $120? Yeesh. Wait...how does a Rubicon sway bar even work? Wow, I can't believe how dumb Jeep owners are when it comes to repairing things like sway bars. Hey wait...I installed a JK non-Rubicon sway bar onto the truck. So does that mean...? Damn, those pneumatic kits are $300 and the Rubicon sway bar seems to run around $500 used. Scratch that idea. I see that one of those kits uses a $40 air cylinder I can buy from Grainger, of all places. I could easily replicate that $300 kit for far less. Hmmm...there's a guy in town selling front and rear sway bars on FB Marketplace, and the front is from a Rubicon and already has the manual kit. He only wants $200 for everything?? It's 2AM but I'll message the guy anyway. The guy lives 3 miles from my house, so I picked it up and got to fitting it. I'm going to have a disconnecting sway bar from a Rubicon. The bar has the same dimensions as the non-Rubicon one, just all the additional mechanically pieces. Fitment is about as perfect as I can get it. So, the way this works the sway bar is two parts with a coupler inside a housing. A fork moves the coupler on or off the mating gears. The ends links stay connected. Normally there's a control module with an actuator that does the work, but when the part fails, you can't just buy a replacement module. So, manual and air kits exist. This is the manual kit. Super simple...just turn the knob and it moves the fork over. I'm just going to buy an air cylinder to replace the knob and bolt assembly to convert it to pneumatic operation. I'll need to modify the plate a tiny amount, which saves me time making a new one. Also need to make a rod to push the actuator. It'll end up like this off-the-shelf unit. The housing is normally held stationary by a rod and damper setup on one of the bushing brackets. I just need to cut the rod off and relocate it. All said, I'm stoked I'll have a setup like this. A little pricey, but a very nice-to-have feature. Also got some pics today doing a couple more turning clearance checks. The pic above is where that flat panhard bolt pays off. Now I can get both sides to have the same amount of turn. Notably, this is only in play when the axle is all the way up like it is in the pic. At ride height, this is not an issue.

Another awesome session with @TowndawgR50 in town to help with the project! A bit more brainstorming this time around than last time, but still super productive. It was great to have him around for a few days! He hand delivered the tone rings and we heated them up and dropped them onto the hubs. They're chunky! Old vs. new... Slapped the hubs on the axle, and for the first time a very long time put the wheels on the axle so we could do some turning checks. There's only so much we can simulate here, but mainly put the axle at full compression and just turned things back and forth as a starting point. Things were looking great overall, and with very few constraints fortunately. The panhard bar and drag link pairing is pretty solid. The WJ gearbox seemed to allow for more right turn than left turn due to the angle of the pitman arm when in a straight-ahead position, so we needed to maximize whatever we could for left turns. The bolt head for the upper panhard bushing was the most problematic item, since it would be struck by the tie rod on full compression and full right turn unless I limited turning with longer steering stops. I absolutely did not want to redo the upper panhard mount. We considered modifying the bolt head, but rather than shave it down, we lopped the head off, welded the rest of the bolt to a tear-drop shaped tab, and secured it with a countersunk screw to keep it from spinning when tightening it down. Looks clean and freed up several degrees on the turn. Next focus was the steering stabilizer and sway bar. The steering stabilizer options aren't great, so no progress was made there. We tossed a JK Wrangler sway bar under the truck and determined the only way to mount it would be behind the axle, but space is pretty tight. We found one specific spot where it looks like it would work. Towndawg got busy surgically cutting off the rear subframe pads (where the LCAs bolt to) and I got to designing something. We came up with this... Unfortunately, the only place I could make that work was to position the bar directly underneath the rearmost subframe bolt, so I'll need to find something a bit more low profile, but that shouldn't be a problem. Not shown (or really, not built yet) is that there will also be a layer of plate between the subframe pads and that sway bar mounting brackets that'll provide some other functions, including spacing the bar away from the bolt head. I will also have something resembling a missing link running parallel to the sway bar, which should also give me some provisions to do a skid plate for the transmission. I incorporated a few mounting points on the subframe plates that will may also be used to build some armor below the oil pan. The sway bar's elbows do consume some turning radius, but only at compression and full turn. If that becomes problematic, there's a backup plan. Also still coming up with some ideas for sway bar disconnects...I have a few ideas. The easiest options are to just use off-the-shelf options for JK Wranglers, since I'll basically be mirroring that setup. But, I'm holding out for a really special approach. Also painted the chassis rails, but no pics. Rattle can paint ended up being a pretty solid color match, so I'm happy with that. The real takeaway about painting is that it means I'm finally done with that part, so I'm getting closer.

I've been chipping away at things since @TowndawgR50 was in town...and am stoked he's coming back out right after Christmas for another session! Major milestone today: finished welding the radius arm brackets to the chassis! Didn't take time to get pics, but I will...though it looks a lot like the prior pics except with welds and painted black. Crossmember got welded up and painted, too. Turned out great. I'm awaiting some exhaust gaskets before I can really button the center of the truck up, but it's nearly there. After installing the LH subframe with the new panhard mount the other week, I realized the lower panhard mount was no longer in alignment with the upper now, so the lower got chopped off. I welded the bracket together today on the bench, and planning to stick it to the axle tomorrow. After that, still need to do the bumpstop pads, and figure out the coilover and limiting strap bracket, steering stabilizer, and sway bar brackets. I have no clue how I'm going to get a sway bar in there...it won't be easy. Towndawg machined down the wheel hubs to clear Tacoma/4R/FJC rotors the other month and I finally got around to mocking things up a little. The wheel stick-out is about as expected and desired. 1" wheel spacers installed, for now. In hindsight, I should've requested leaving a little more meat on the hub face to help center of the rotor. Centering rings will be required, but I couldn't find anything that adapts 3.5" hubs to the 108mm of the rotor and spacer. So, going to have to get creative and modify some off-the-shelf rings to work. For now, I can machine something out of ABS or wood when I'm getting closer to really diving into this. It looks like there's tons of working space... But then again... I may need to get creative with the bracket for the calipers, however, the easiest way to mount the caliper is a simple tab/bracket welded directly to the spindle knuckle. But, that tab/bracket would have to be 3/8" thick and welded to cast. While my little buzz box has been great for 3/16" stuff, including welding to cast already, I just don't trust it for this job. But, I know a guy! Towndawg has also spent the last couple days jamming on the tone rings. We were originally hoping another guy at his shop could crank them out on some super fancy multi-axis CNC mill, but his timing wasn't great. So, we scaled the parts to something that could be done on another mill, and the results are beef. The ring started as a CHUNK of plate steel, reduced down to a 5.5" OD x 3.75" ID x 0.75" ring, with the teeth going the full width to give me some wiggle room to mount the sensors. The initial version weighed 3 lbs., though! By comparison, the OE tone ring is about 4" OD x 0.4" and a 3 OUNCES. End mills were destroyed in the making of these. After some rethinking, we opted to take the teeth width down to 0.4", which got them down to about 1.5 lbs. each. It'd be great to lighten them further, but for now it's probably best to prove the concept first. I have yet to hold these puppies, but they look awesome. Towndawg really is a master of his craft. But anyway, brakes are still a little ways away in the project. Next big step is figuring out the coilover and springs set up. I think I'm decided on the coilovers, but need to figure out the spring rates and lengths to go with. I need a way to weigh the new sprung weight of the front of the vehicle. There are coil exchange programs where I could dial it in without first knowing the weight...but time, shipping costs, premiums on the coilovers and springs, and other risks make it really tough to go that route. Most shops use Eibach springs at nearly $80 each (needing 4!) so I really hope to go with JEGS or Summit or house brands for closer to $35-$55/ea. For now, I may just order up the coilovers and figure out the springs later.

Mine’s been fine, but yeah, don’t trust them alone. My carrier will be replaced eventually.

^FYI @Pattytyler@Nick.Holland78@ROBBASE@BCangler99@Shade_Slayer4603@ospetrus

Ha! I found one of those at the junkyard earlier this year and thought about keeping it just because...but then realized I'd have zero use for it.

Long time, no update! Project has had its typical slow point the last several months. Work and sports (youth & adult) took up a lot of that time, dealing with sports-related injuries, and AZ setting a new record of like 113 consecutive days over 100° or something...well, hard to get motivated to go outside, to say the least. I think the only notable thing I did for the last few months was order a new radiator...still sitting in the box because I've not gotten to relocating the mounts for it yet, but I still have other engine things to do first anyway. The past couple weeks I'd been figuring out how to mount the radius arms to the chassis. Went through a couple designs and finally settled on something I really liked. Got all the pieces cut out the other week and got them tacked together and temporarily mounted up. Pretty huge step right there, because it allowed me to start working on the upper panhard bar mount (the lower mount was done a while ago). Got all that tacked up, too, only to realize that the position wasn't going work and that it would need to be moved forward a little...meaning the lower mount will also have to be redone. Then this week happened...and I finally had a super productive week! I took the whole week off and also flew TownDawgR50 down from WA to help. He'd thrown the idea out a while ago and I finally took him up on it. He was only in town for 3 days, but it was great seeing him and jamming on the project. We focused mainly on the radius arm mounts and crossmember, but also hammered out the corrected upper panhard mount. He went to town welding up the brackets and steering links, freeing me up to CAD and cut out parts. Pics! Radius arm brackets welded up and bolted where the transmission crossmember existed. The bolts are just for positioning; the entire bracket will be welded to the chassis rail. A plate will also be welded to the inner rail with gussets. The driver's side inner rail is free of lines and wires, but there's limited clearance below the cats, which is why everything had to be mounted below the rails. Much more cat clearance on the passenger side, but with all the fuel and brake lines there, plus electrical and pneumatic lines I've added, there's very limited space to weld a plate on the inner rail. Passenger mount showing how the transmission crossmember will attach...front wheel studs pressed into the bracket. This how the crossmember started. I chopped the OE one and built a bracket to put new mounting provisions on it. On the driver's side, plan was to put a plate (shown) to extend the tubing rearward rather than try to build a hoop over the driveshaft (I prefer staying under so I don't have to remove it if I need to remove the crossmember). For this setup, there'd be a 2" square tube (similar size as the center section of the OE unit) offset about 3" and it'd give me the clearance I'd need. But then, I got to this point and didn't like my options on how to attach it to the other radius arm bracket because of all the little height differences involved. So, I ditched that approach entirely and designed a whole new piece. Worked on it today and just need to redo the center piece and trim up the ends on the inner supports, then tack it up and confirm fitment. This took a bit of time to plan out and make the bends, but came out pretty damn good, if I may say so. The driveshaft hoop portion is deliberately shaped to be narrower than the rest of the shape (1.5" vs. 1-7/8") to give just a little more clearance at the point closest to the driveshaft at full droop, but the base plate keeps a uniform width so it's still well protected and boxed in. The big advantage to this is that it keeps my mounting surface flat and low profile, and just looks a helluva lot better. Lastly, got the revised upper panhard mount done when TownDawg was here. Since this piece is entirely bolt-on and uses the subframe mounting hardware, I needed to retain access to hole. Moving the mount forward would block the hole, but I was able to box in a pocket to retain access. Unfortunately, it's not looking like I'll be done by the end of December which is when my tags expire. So, I'll be an outlaw for a while longer until I can get it rolling to get emissions done. But with the recent work, it's that much closer to having the axle attached and in the final position...next step: coilover shopping.

If you have a Nissan dealership nearby, you can get them shipped there for free via Nissan’s parts site (parts.Nissan USA.com). Mine’s super close, so it works out great. All the pieces in the clutch pack are friction pieces except the springs. I was given the option to wait for manufacturing lead time, but I think those orders also got cancelled. For the price though, could be worth finding out.

Correct, you need some sort of line level adjustment to get the volume up on the BOSE amps. I used to run a Scosche OEA4, but this PAC ROEM-NIS2 unit has faired much better: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541NIS2/PAC-ROEM-NIS2-Wiring-Interface.html?tp=3486

The front door speakers have integrated amps, so there are essentially 3 amps for the BOSE system: front LH, front RH, rear LH+RH. The front amps don't use the remote signal directly; the remote signal triggers the amp relay, and the power signal through the relay powers them (pin 4 on the front door units). The rear amp uses the remote signal like a conventional amp since it has a dedicated power source...which is also the same power source going through the amp relay. The battery power (always on) going to pin 6 on the factory headunit is the same source that powers the rear amp directly, and also is the power that goes through the amp relay to power the front amps. The remote signal is pin 12; it goes directly to the rear amp (pin 9) and to the amp relay. If you hooked up the remote line from the new headunit to the factory wire (pin 12, light green w/ red stripe), it should turn on all amps. The signal would need to be 12v. If that's good and the rear amp isn't turning on, then it could be the fuse on the Battery (fuse #4 under the dash, 15A). Does the radio retain it's settings after it's powered off?

I had read about that, too, but I feel like that wasn't true when I came across that scenario on accident. Long story short, I pulled a H233(A?) 3.7 from a very early D21 that would have been a perfect when I swapped a late-model D21 H233B onto my Frontier. The older 3rd didn't seem like it'd fit even if I pulled studs, but maybe I didn't try hard enough. Also couldn't put the 3.7 gears into a newer 3rd because the pinion gear used different bearings and I didn't want that much of a hodge-podge. My Frontier had 3.7 gears, so the H233 3.7s would have been great, but the donor had 3.9s and that ended up being a far better choice.

Regarding filtering...I needed to do something similar a few months back. I used paper coffee filters in a funnel. Took a while to get all the oil through but worked fine. Rebuild's not too bad. Amayama is a good route for parts. I also have LSD parts around. If you have an older unit that happens to have tabbed spring plates (see my post for examples), then I have a set of unused friction guides for you.

I was trying to figure that out, too. I can see that if it shifted a little maybe it could be sheared off by the carrier over time, but if it had sheared off, that piece would've been full width. Because it's short and the cut looks somewhat clean (can't see the angles), I could guess that it could fatigue off...but how incredibly unlikely it'd be to fatigue in two spots. The piece also can't exactly be ripped off...it's a pretty dense chunk of metal. All said, I'm baffled. Donors shouldn't be too tough to find depending on how many yards you have nearby. HG43 and HG46 just refer to the ratio; the 3rd members can be swapped without issue, just need to be mindful your truck and the donor have disc brakes (should because SE?), otherwise you may need to split the carrier to add/remove a thrust block inside (discs didn't use the thrust blocks, drums did) Could it lead to catastrophic failure? Potentially, yes, because if the remainder of that guide is in the carrier, the lack of that piece on it will allow it to slide out of the hole in the carrier. The piece alone will destroy things if it's caught in the gear mesh, but then also the friction plates lack the piece and may get bashed up. You wouldn't be able to gut the carrier because the clutch pieces provide the necessary tension on the side gears to keep them engaged to the spider gears. Amayama is a good source for parts still, but I'll be surprised if they don't cancel the order for the 1.6mm pieces...they should be discontinued (I've tried ordering them a few times). The difference is just thickness and how it contributes to the stack height (thicker stack, higher break-away torque on the unit). I have a write-up here about all that stuff, but it can also serve as a rebuild guide. You'll be better off just finding a donor and having extra parts. I think I may even have enough parts to build up a 4.375 carrier, too, if you're unable to find something local.

Looks like the indented part of a friction plate guide used in the LSD carrier. Overall width on a new piece like that is 15.5mm, but where yours appears might've broken, I measure about 12.5mm, so pretty high confidence this is it. It installs on the tabs of the friction plates. You can see it in the hole in the pic.

Hey, good to hear from you again. I think at this point, the thread is dead, but appreciate the praise there. We still have parts around, but little time and ambition to build up kits these days, unfortunately. We both moved onto some bigger projects. I'm currently SAS'ing my truck...slowly. Towndawg's got a 720 he's been bringing back to life, not to mention finally getting t-case crawler gears, 4.6s, my old front air locker, and other goodies installed on his truck.