hawairish

My reason for asking about any special features on your LE headlights is because there could also be a control module in place. Long time ago a buddy had an Infiniti J30 where the headlights kept flickering or turning off random; would work fine for a while, then not work. I spent hours tracing the issue and eventually took a real hard look at a headlight control module under the hood. Took it all apart and found a couple solder joints on the back of the control board had hairline cracks. Resoldered it, problem solved. I know there were some premium headlight options, I'm just not sure what they were aside from leveling options. I haven't scoured the FSM to see what options there were. In your case, you still may want to just swap bulbs and wait it out to see if the problem travelled.

Mine didn't have the washer or mesh washer, and it didn't look like anything had been replaced previously...stock manifold and uppers as far as I could tell. I looked for those items, too. The upper had a lip that seemed to fit well into the manifold opening, and sealed fine when bolted together. Looked on RA and couldn't find suitable replacements, and sure as hell wasn't paying $20/ea x 4 items to replace items that weren't there and didn't seem to present a problem. But, looking at RA now, I see a Fel-Pro mesh washer (p/n 61339) is on closeout for $3.33/ea that I don't recall seeing previously apparently because it only shows up in a search by OE p/n, and not by my application. Fel-Pro 60835 reads like it might be the washer ("Converter; Manifold To Converter") but it has no matching OE p/n and zero specs...it looks too small and of one OE p/n it does list, it returns as a match for the gasket that goes between the upper cat and lower cat/resonator. Looking at a pic of the washer, it's hard to tell if it crushes; looks like it has squared edges. Frankly, I'm not even sure what the mesh accomplishes, but maybe I'll pick some up.

I’d start by swapping the bulbs left <-> right and see if the issue travels. Inspect the wires for any issues. With a multimeter in continuity mode and lights off, you can try probing the low and high signals to see if there’s continuity, suggesting a short somewhere. Then, with test voltage/signal on low and high when on. Just both headlight sockets for consistency. My guess (and lowest hanging fruit) is the bulb, maybe something odd going on internally…wild guess. Does your LE have anything special about its headlights? I thought some had optional adjustment or different bulbs/lenses vs. SE models. Not sure.

I’d advise against impacts unless you ended up needing to just shearing something on purpose. I prefer to feel those out, even stopping to reapply penetrant. For the heat shields, there are a few screws that hold them on, so even if you shear a couple you might be okay. Obviously oil on a heat source is not ideal, but worst case might be a large hose clamp securing the heat shield.

Even with the lower cat+pipes off, the proximity of the manifold/upper joint to the chassis still makes accessing all the nuts (6 per side) difficult. That’s where the extensions are needed, mainly for the ones at the top or towards the chassis. I replaced what I could with what I could on hand. I think in one case that meant replacing a bust stud with a bolt after extracting the stud and re-tapping the hole (holes…pretty sure I re-tapped everything). Can’t confirm if leaks are common. Mine seemed ok, but I did replace the gasket on the drivers side. I absolutely avoided doing anything on the passenger side. The heat shield blocks everything, and just gaining visibility to things seemingly required pulling the steering pump and reservoir, among many other things. Right now with my SAS project still underway, I have those components out and it’s still largely out of sight. I expect the coolant pipe also obstructs things, so that’d have to be drained. I’ll try to get a pic of things tonight since I have things cleared out of the space.

I did everything from the bottom (3.5L). In fact, only way I could really even get up there was with the lower cats off (or resonators on some models). Getting the head shields off the uppers was the tough part…a few 10mm are in very tight spots. Some sheared off due to rust. Penetrant wouldn’t hurt. Once the shields are off, you’ll still need/want socket extensions and wobbles to give yourself leverage below the chassis…working space is still tight. Access to the RH upper O2 sucks. All others are easy (LH upper from the top). I can’t remember if everything was nuts, but I want to say some were bolts. I know I sheared a couple on the drivers side and had to pull the exhaust manifold off to repair. Passenger side is a nightmare…fortunately didn’t have to remove that manifold and didn’t shear any. Also, I basically needed to remove the entire exhaust system to pull the uppers off. There wasn’t enough slack in the hangers to pry things backwards, so I removed everything starting from the rear.

@EricCR Forget OEM. 10x https://belmetric.com/m14x1-5-fine-din-6921-flange-bolt-class-10-9-wrench-18mm/?sku=BFD14X1.5X80YLW @ $3.54/ea 10x https://belmetric.com/din-6927-fine-full-wrench-class-10-top-lock-flange-nut/ @ $1.54/ea Class 10/10.9 hardware, yellow zinc, OEM size and function (prevailing torque lock nut). Only real downside is they are not JIS spec, so they need different size wrenches than you'd normally use on the truck (18mm and 21mm). Buy 10 sets because there's a price break that's less than a buck more (8 @ $49.92 vs 10 @ $50.80 before tax/shipping). Haven't used Belmetric before, but will be soon.

Yep, one bolt per side.

Camber bolts wouldn't hurt, but also probably unnecessary at that height/setup. I didn't use them until my SFD days.

If I'm being honest, I'm brand agnostic for stuff like this. I have enough conspiracy theories in my head that prevents me from believing one part is better than another; and in many cases, they're the identical and made by the same company. My wallet tends to be my decision maker in those cases. If you eventually plan to swap the bushings for poly, though, I'd keep it cheap. But that's because I'm cheap (I also run poly bushings in custom arms).

Echoing the above replies. That "4WD" light is specifically a warning lamp for the system, not an indicator that you are in 4wd. If it stays lit, it means a malfunction is detected. Generally, the system prevents Auto/4H/4L engagement when malfunctions are present, so if you've not personally engaged 4H and 4L to feel the difference in crawl speed, I wouldn't trust the dealer's assessment at all. In essence, there's a diagnostic pattern that can be perform on the truck using the ignition switch, the dial switch, and the transmission shifter to enter a diagnostic mode where the 4wd lamp will blink a pattern that corresponds to one or more fault codes. I highly doubt the dealer will allow you to perform that process, use a diagnostic scanner (a generic OBD scanner will not be able to pull these codes), or otherwise take it to a mechanic or dealership for inspection (at your expense). Truck otherwise looks to be in reasonable shape for age and mileage, but I'd strongly advise walking away if you're unable to pull the code(s), unless the vehicle is potentially acceptable for use in 2WD/RWD. The reason is because this "All Mode" transfer cases uses input from nearly all other modules (ECU, transmission, ABS, for example) in order to operate multiple motors, pumps, and sensors. There are also dozens of potential fault codes, not to mention that multiple fault codes can be present, and not necessarily isolated to the transfer case system itself. Without knowing what codes exist, it's impossible to know the real cost of repair, but it can become substantial quickly (old parts, Nissan-only parts, electronic/electrical parts, difficult to access/remove parts, etc.). If you're set on the platform and want 4wd, you can find Pathfinders with a part-time transfer cases that have a mechanical shift lever; they lack the Auto (AWD) function, but they also lack all the complexity and are significantly simpler and more reliable. Some SEs, all LEs (?), and all Infiniti QX4 with 4wd had the All Mode system.

The newer Moogs will fit all the same, but the bracket/tab used to secure the ABS wire is different. The older trucks used a J-shaped hook that bolted to the arm. The newer style has a forked tab that a rubber boot on the line presses onto. If you take a close look at the pics on RockAuto, you'll see the difference. Nothing some cable ties can't resolve, though. The parking brake cables attach the same on both styles, noting that driver's side uses two tabs to attach the cable, but the passenger side only uses one bracket, but most RH options show both tabs.

I'm not aware of any size differences, and I'm surprised to not see the parts weren't superseding, but they should fit all the same. The difference is probably the vibration dampeners that are attached to the bar. Only real changes across the entire 96-04 range relating to rear suspension were in regards to shock mounting, and even then 96-99 were the same style.

I'm wanting to test, but my truck is still apart enough (battery out, multiple sensors and harnesses disconnected) that I can't. We avoid keeping the remote in our vehicles when they're parked outside, but otherwise, yeah, our primary vehicle is garage kept (except when a SAS project is underway, lol). I have smaller remotes that fit on keychains.

That was my assumption, too. Well, not really an assumption, since the Owner's Manual says it turns off after 30 minutes. But, because that function is seemingly tied to the battery saver function and not as a security measure, it's why I don't trust it. Per the FSM: The door opening is the main one, but I also think any appropriate metal object --key or screwdriver-- in the cylinder might also complete the circuit. This description is also specifically for when the battery saver mode is activated. It's not clear if this applies when battery saver mode is not activated, or even if the security is enabled. My thought is that anything that enables the interior lighting also enables the vanity lamps and Homelink. If true, that means just switching the dome light from Off or Door to On or pressing the door unlock switch will wake everything, even if the door is not opened (pretty sure the alarm still sounds if the door is unlocked from the inside after being armed). Main thing for me is that there are just too many conditions. It should just be disabled when no key is present. I don't even like knowing it remains active for 30 minutes...why so long? Why not 5 minutes? I don't even want a dome light left on for 30 minutes.

Correct, that 50 pin powers other similar accessories. If I'm being honest, though, I have the Homelink and don't use it because of how it's wired. It's basically always on. It should have been wired to be on an ACC or ON circuit, in my opinion. Aside from being in plain sight, just takes someone breaking the window or opening the door to press the button and access to the garage.

FSM says the harness (M62, white w/ 6 wires) is located on the passenger side, near the A-pillar. May have to pull the glove box to see would be my guess. The Smart Entrance Control Unit supplies the power for it (from pin 50, red w/white wire to M62) and is above the pedals somewhere. The FSM indicates that the harness that connects to the illuminated visor (R5, red w/ 2 wires) is the same harness used to power the Homelink transceiver. Everything should run up the passenger A-pillar. Refs: https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Pathfinder%2F2003%2Fel.pdf EL-371: Homelink diagram EL-101: vanity/illumination diagram EL-522/523: main harness layout (M62 in cell F1) EL-532: A-pillar/roof wiring locations

Yep, I'm familiar with this service (Montana Shipping Outlet). Used it once to ship a SFD kit to a guy in 2020 during COVID in fact. I don't think he was able to pick things up until 2023 unfortunately between closures, restrictions, and life events. But anyway, if you still need odds and ends, let me know.

No problem. I just happened to have the older coil packs laying around, though I thought I spare newer pack. Fortunately my engine is currently torn down a little for my SAS project to pull one somewhat easily. I hear you on wanting to research things. I'm lucky to have several parts yards around me, as well as RockAuto, since I practically never buy locally. If I can help your project by hitting up my local yards and shipping to you, let me know. A quick search of Row52.com shows 4x 00-01 Pathfinders and 3x 00-01 QX4s in within a reasonable drive for me (the QX4s also had aluminum covers...my older coils came from one). Three of those trucks are at the yard closest to me, and I suspect 2 of them will have aluminum covers. Shipping to CAN from here is notoriously slow and overpriced for large items, but if things can fit into smaller flat-rate boxes or padded envelopes (USPS or UPS) the price isn't too bad. Let me know.

For sure you'd need an older #1 coil. For the other coils: 2a: It's possible to swap the boots older-->newer, but you also need the spring 2b: You'd need to lengthen the boots, which would prevent spark plug contact, so this is a no-go. 2c: Since the older coils were intended for the older covers (aluminum), this is the most correct route. That's what the guy did in that Nico post (man...I barely had the truck 2 years when I was chiming in on that...how things have changed). That said, I did some R&D for you... Newer coil on left, older on right. When aligned by the mounting tabs, the older is about 1/2" longer. When aligned by boot length, they are the same length. The older coil's mounting tab sits above the plastic valve covers mounting hole by 1/2". As mentioned earlier, you can probably still fit the newer style in cylinders 2-6, but the coil has to be turned enough to avoid the mounting boss on the aluminum covers. You could possibly use a screw and washer in the boss to retain the coil to some degree. Taken apart, you can see all the parts are different. Although the spring in the older unit is quite longer, it sits deeper in the hole in the module. All the tube parts are shaped differently enough that fitment isn't great if you were to swap things around, but it's somewhat possible. With springs in and aligned by mounting tab, the older coil is still 1/2" longer. If you put the older style boot and older spring onto the newer style module, the boot fits nicely and everything else seems to be the correct length and position. Not that it matters here, but the newer boot will not fit the older module unless the top of the boot is cut off. Now, since the springs are different, I have no idea what impact it has switching it. I also don't know if you can get the boots and springs. I'd say that if you're at a junk yard and pulling them, you may as well just buy the complete coils. Although my personal opinion is that the additional cost to do this project doesn't really have much ROI, unless it's just cheaper than buying new plastic covers. Hope this helps.

No progress today, but yesterday I felt confident enough in axle placement to cut up my last piece of tubing for the drag link, so now I can talk about the steering setup. The approach here is what the SAS community calls "GM 1-ton TREs". Several 4wd shops sell these kits as "Y-Link" setups. Since this axle came with a Heim kit that was mostly welded up (drag link was ready to be cut to length), I'm just using the tubing but cut the pieces in a manner that retained some length with the bungs previously welded in (project foreshadowing: looks like I'm making Heim jointed upper trailing arms when I focus on the rear axle). The tubing is 1.5" OD x 0.250" wall...it's beefy. The TREs have 1" shafts, so they're beefy, too. I used the following SKP parts from Rock Auto: Tie rod: SES2233L & SES2234R Drag link: SES2027L & SES2026R TREs ran about $28 for all before tax/shipping, and then another $30 for LH/RH threaded bungs and jam nuts off a shop on ebay. Also needed a 1.5" TPF (taper per foot) or 7° reamer, which ran another $77. The reamer is necessary because the 2233L piece and the pitman arm need to be reamed out. The nice part about this is spares are cheap and easy to obtain, but one part does need to be reamed beforehand. The end result: Drag link's at about 6°, which is not too bad. Currently projecting (aiming for) 4" of up-travel, and this position is good enough to keep the tie rod off the pitman joint, and that's really about the only constraint I needed to be mindful of this. There's otherwise plenty of clearance; next closest thing is the drag link below the oil filter, but still ample space. Hidden in that last pic is a very crude placement of the PHB, which should fit really nicely in there. The drag link ended up being 37" center-center, and the PHB will be at 33". I couldn't find much info about the effect of differing lengths, but should be easily to keep them parallel. The PHB is from a JK Wrangler and has hump/kickout for diff cover clearance. The first pic also has the FJ arm wired up. I'm pretty satisfied with the angles and planned placement. Just need to get the plates CAD'd up and cut. Hard to tell with the angle, but the rear eye is just inboard of chassis rail, so it fortunately won't have a big cantilever. Figuring to weld on brackets for the mounts, with a middle removable crossmember. I'm stalled a little on progress because I'm not liking how I've got the engine slung up. Having the support bar at an angle causes the legs on the passenger side to be lower than the driver's side, which is cause the engine to be supported a little crooked. I realized this when I attempted to reinstall the subframe so I could confirm the engine was at the correct height (my decision to do this ended up being a terrible one...installing the subframe was far more difficult than removing it). The real problem is Nissan failing to put any reasonable sling points on the engine. I can't even wrap a strap under the engine without fear of it crushing a tube, or bending something. I mean, the KA in my Frontier already has slingers attached...from the factory...and you could pull that engine out with crowbar. The VQ points are ridiculous obnoxious and inaccessible...not to mention basically requiring genuine Nissan slingers that don't exist (and wouldn't do me any good anyway). So, I'm trying to make slingers I can leave attached for future use. The driver's side is done. The passenger side has been a total ishtshow. I can't even remove the RH bracket to weld something because half the bolts are obstructed by the exhaust manifold. After a couple hours of ideas and measurements, I think I have a plan of attack, which I'll make tomorrow and get the engine re-slung.

Yep! Valve cover gaskets between a bunch of VQ35 and VQ40 vehicles are the same so that's a pretty good sign they'd all fit. The covers do look like they'd fit, but only takes 1 or 2 dumb Nissan changes to throw things off. That rear-pointing tube on the driver's cover would be a problem.

Screw and two clips, though be careful as there’s a clip in the center of the panel piece…if any plastic is going to break off, it’ll be at that point. At least that’s how it seemed on mine.

As far as I can tell, this hose just drains into the cavity and any water pours out through holes in the chassis. I could not locate the hose end underneath the truck or behind the mud flap area (my truck has that stuff cut out because of tire rubbing).

Some good progress yesterday and today! Nothing major, but big little steps, so to speak. Yesterday drilled some holes in the chassis rail to mount up the steering box so I could confirm fitment. Box is a little closer to the wheel well than I had mocked up, but still clears fine. Box is rigged in there with some spacers for the time being until I get all the plate work designed out and the bolt sleeves in hand. With box temporarily attached, I was able to measure up for the steering link and get to chopping the R50 and WJ units. The WJ shaft normally has about 10" of slip, but in it's reduced form now only has about 2.5". I couldn't really get more because I needed to keep enough round tube at the end for the splined end from the R50 shaft...but since the R50 shaft also tapers down, that piece also needed to retain enough length. Total shaft length ends up around 16". The R50 shaft OD is about 1/16" smaller than the WJ shaft ID, so I hammered some 1/32" washers around the shaft, tacked them on, smoothed them out, and ended up with a nice friction fit that also kept the splined end centered nicely. Main thing here was remembering to align the flat part in the spline upwards and perpendicular to the flat sides of the WJ shaft. Also got around to chopping off the leaf spring perches on the axle, since they obstruct where I'll need to mount the FJ radius arms. The passenger side wasn't too bad since it was just a cast piece welded to the tube. The driver's side perch, on the other hand, is cast into the housing but fortunately wasn't too bad. Attacked it with a cut-off wheel and my cheap HF sawzall. Still need to measure up the arms and design some brackets. Shipped up the D44 hubs to Towndawg for his magic touch. They've got a fancy industrial CNC machine at work that will be making the tone rings, so I'm excited to see how that turns out and getting them onto the modified hubs so I can work on the backing plate for the calipers and ABS sensor. He's also going to turn some custom hub adapters that'll support the 108mm rotor and a wheel spacer up to 1.5" (I plan to run the 1" I already have), and then narrow down to 100mm for Nissan wheels.