hawairish

Great job and thanks for the photo sharing!

Thanks! Yes, definitely a few W/D21 and even W/D22 compatibility (100% for their H233B).

Twelve years of owning an R50, and almost 28 years owning and working on Nissan trucks (and cars, briefly)...and I'm just now getting around to putting together something like this. Still seems like people are trying to keep these trucks on the road, so hopefully this helps. This is a current matrix of maintenance and service parts for the R200A and H233B axles/differentials found in R50 Pathfinders and JR50 QX4. It covers all basic parts like seals and bearings, providing the current Nissan part number, superseded part numbers, quantity used, and a few suitable aftermarket part numbers. It also indicates which parts are No Longer Available ("NLA") from Nissan; they might still be available from international brokers and suppliers like Amayama.com and Partsouq.com. This list (particularly the aftermarket part numbers) is not comprehensive, but should be a good starting point; nearly all of the parts listed have a confirmed cross-reference to the OE part, some I've personally used. RockAuto's part number search DOES search across interchange numbers listed on parts; enter the OE part number without hyphens (i.e., "3818921G17"). There are definitely other parts that will work, especially more-affordable options; compare the specs of a listed part to other parts. It does not include any differential parts, LSD parts, or parts that would be needed to set up gears like shims and spacers...the majority of those parts are completely unavailable. The best option if wanting to change gears is to source a complete 3rd member or entire front differential from a donor vehicle, and service it using the parts from this matrix. Due to the nature of the high-pinion R200A we have, there are NO aftermarket gears available for it. Again, this is SPECIFICALLY for R50 trucks only. Other R200A front differentials (like those from W/D21, W/D22) do use some of these parts, but not all. The H233B data is for 33-spline only. Again, some parts do interchange, but some do not (mainly the inner seals and outer bearings which are sized smaller for 31-spline shafts). Keep in mind replacing many of these parts requires access to specialty tools, like pullers and a floor press, to disassemble and/or assemble components. Most of these parts cannot be bashed off, and some rental tools at your local auto parts store may be insufficient. A clamshell-style bearing puller like this works great for pulling pinion and carrier bearings. The matrix likely applies to foreign Terrano and Regulus models, too, but do your homework because you know Nissan did some really dumb things with these trucks. Part R200A (R50 Pathfinder ONLY) H233B (33-Spline ONLY) ! Qty OE Part # Supersedes NLA Aftermarket Part # ! Qty OE Part # Supersedes NLA Aftermarket Part # Pinion Nut 1 38216-U301A 38216-U3000 1 43262-50A0A 43262-50A02 Pinion Seal 1 38189-21G17 38189-21G15 38189-21G16 Y SKF: 15882 National: 710591 Timken: 2011S 1 38189-C7123 38189-C7021 38189-C7023 SKF: 16468 Schaeffler: SS2722 National: 710245 Timken: 710245 WJB/InMotion: WS710245 Outer Pinion Bearing 1 38120-1320A 38120-13201 Timken: 32306 WJB/InMotion: WT32306C SKF: BR32306 1 38120-1320A 38120-13201 Timken: 32306 WJB/InMotion: WT32306C SKF: BR32306 Inner Pinion Bearing 1 38120-61000 National: 32307 SKF: BR32307 Timken: 32307 1 38120-76500 38120-7650A National: 32308C SKF: BR32308 Outer Shaft Seal (LH) 1 38342-N3100 38342-P9000 SKF: 550231 Beck/Arnley: 0523506 Timken: 223542 National: 711070 A 2 43232-42G10 43232-42G00 National: 710176 Beck/Arnley: 0523492 SKF: 22120 Timken: 710176 Outer Shaft Seal (RH) B 1 40227-31G00 National: 710398 SKF: 19689 Schaeffler: SS3016 Axle Shaft Bearing (LH) Not Applicable 2 43210-0W000 SKF: GRW190 Mevotech: H516005 Beck/Arnley: 0514115 BCA: WE60346 National: 516005 Schaeffler: 101836 GMB: 7500024 Axle Shaft Bearing (RH) B 1 43215-H5000 43215-22500 43125-H5000 Y WJB/InMotion: WBRW114R Timken: RW114R National: RW114R Duralast: RW114R Axle Shaft Bearing Collar (RH) 1 43255-H1000 43255-18000 Y Not Applicable Inner Shaft Seal (LH) Not Applicable C 2 43252-0W000 Timken: 710479 National: 710479 Beck/Arnley: 0523727 SKF: 14782 Centric: 417.42011 Inner Shaft Seal (RH) 1 43252-H1000 SKF: 550232 Timken: 1181 Carrier Bearings 2 38440-N3111 National: 30209C Timken: 30209C BCA: NB30209C 2 38440-60000 Y National: KC11445Y SKF: KC11445Y Timken: KC11445Y WJB/InMotion: WTKC11445Y Differential Gasket D 1 38320-21W00 38440-N3110 38440-N3100 Y NONE - See Notes 1 38320-T3322 38320-T3321 38320-T3320AS 38320-T3320 O-Ring - Side Shaft Bolt (LH) 1 38223-21000 33125-Z5002 Not Applicable O-Ring - Outer Axle Tube Not Applicable C 2 43085-42G00 Beck/Arnley: 052-3568 SKF: 42G00 Fill Plug 1 00931-2121A 00931-21210 00931-21200 1 00931-2121A 00931-21210 00931-21200 Drain Plug 1 32103-U840A 32103-U8401 1 32103-U840A 32103-U8401 JPG version ! INSTALLATION NOTES A Axle shafts must be COMPLETELY disassembled (ABS tone ring, bearings, bearing cup, etc.) in order to replace the outer axle seals. This process requires a suitable tool and/or press. These seals are mainly grease-catchers for the bearings. However, if the inner seal is leaking gear oil, it likely has compromised the bearing grease. Axle shaft tear-down is recommended to regrease the wheel bearings and replace the seals. B Replace the RH outer shaft seal, outer bearing, and bearing collar together. The bearing shaft collar MUST be destroyed-off with a cold chisel BEFORE the bearing can be removed, and before the seal can be replaced. Attempting to pull the side shaft with the collar installed WILL destroy the flange plate (38232-01W00) and bolts. Ask me how I know. The "RW114R" kits all include a bearing and new bearing collar; the seal is sold separately. A slide hammer is needed to pull the shaft from the bearing, and a press is required to install the bearing and bearing collar on the shaft. C The axle shafts must be completely removed from the axle in order to replace the inner shaft seals and outer o-rings located at the ends of the axle tubes. This requires disconnecting the parking brake and hydraulic brake lines from the drums. The axle shafts will rest on seals, and potentially damage them, when the axles shafts are only partially pulled from the differential. FSM says to remove the ABS sensors from the axle tube to avoid damaging them when pulling the axle shafts. D The R50 Pathfinder uses a 9-bolt R200A differential only found in E50 and E51 platforms. All other R200A, R200, and C200 differentials found in other Nissan trucks and cars have 8-bolt covers. There are NO aftermarket gasket options for the 9-bolt differential.

70 ft-lbs is just to seat the bearing fully, not the final torque spec. Snug it up, rotate the hub, loosen the nut completely (do it twice if you're not sure it's seated). I like to also give the hub a few love taps with a dead blow when it's snugged up. After it's loose, "tighten" 4.3-13.0 inch pounds (same emphasis as Slartibartfast that it's about 1 foot pound max, not 13 nor 70 foot pounds). The nut is just barely against the bearing cone, and the lock washer and screw are what prevent it from backing out. Even with a short distance, it was probably extremely harsh on the bearings. They're probably fine, but personally I'd be pulling everything back apart, degreasing them, and visually inspecting them before putting it all back together. Or, just address the tightening issue and let'r ride.

SFDs retain stock suspension, steering, and front driveline geometries. They are intended to drop the subframe and all components a static distance; since everything's on the subframe, everything should be retained for the most part. There are some subtle nuances, like potentially still needing camber bolts, having to rotate the steering rack a little, and changes in the front driveshaft angle...but nothing that impacts daily drivability. As Slart explained it, it's basically a body lift, except for a subframe.

Agreed, the 2nd part appears to be some sort of NVH damper. It's not a transmission mount, that's for sure. If you buy from Amazon, you can search for the 1st p/n and it'll return a bunch generic options. Ebay, too. Anchor 9011 for $19: https://www.ebay.com/itm/297995046269. If you have a clunk when you change gears, the problem is more likely to be your motor mounts, specifically the driver's side. If your transmission mount has sheared or shows signs of shearing, I'd be certain at least one of your motor mounts has already given up the ghost. I changed mine out a few years ago on a whim, and the 2 pieces came out in 4.

RR sliders use 2" square tube and 1.5" round tube, 3/16" thickness. Using the QX4 mounts has worked out well. My buddy took the same approach with a universal set of sliders and they turned out great.

Not limited to 00+. The trucks that had it were 2WD...but maybe some really old W/D21 4WD before 4-wheel ABS systems came into play. For sure, that setup has existed for a long time. My 98 2wd Frontier had it with the H190 axle, and now that I have an H233B in it, I used an older Hardbody diff to retain the system. Stated differently, it won't matter if the diff has it in your case. It won't get used, and you won't need to remove it. But the flange protrudes a little farther than the non-ABS version because it has more components to work it, but the bolt pattern is the same (I overlooked you said it was from a Frontier). You can't move your flange to housing because it won't clear the snout due to bolt holes that mount the sensor flange. The longer flange means you need to confirm that your driveshaft doesn't bottom out in the t-case when the rear suspension is fully compressed. Parts look like this:

The 2WD 3rd will physically fit all the same, but if the pinion flange is like how it used to be on trucks with the ABS sensor on the pinion snout, the flange will be about 3/4" longer than models with the ABS sensors at the drums. Though...I want to say some 2WDs (maybe the QX4?) had a CV-style driveshaft with a different bolt pattern. Pics would help confirm that. All R50s have 33-spline. The 31/33 split applies to Frontiers. Xterras were all 33-spline...you can use a 3rd from a 00+ Xterra or Frontier as well. Same HG46 ratio.

You'll probably know it as "high pinion" (reverse cut) and "low pinion" (standard cut), much like the reference on Dana axles. The pinion line is either above or below the centerline of the ring gear. Rotation's all the same, but the teeth on the gears are cut in opposite directions. R200A from an W/D21 or W/D22: R50 R200A: In general, high pinion is best up front, and low pinion best in the rear due to gear mesh. But fck Nissan for making the R50 the only high-pinion R200A application. The short answer is they can't be (easily) swapped because they are mounted to the truck in completely different ways. The long answer:

I recognize that X from the Nissan SAS group. Welcome back. All R50s are 33-spline...but the problem with 4.9s is that there isn't a set that fits the front axle. R50s have reverse cut gears up front in the R200A; W/D22 are standard cut. You're limited to 4.6s, and hopefully that's what you already have.

A Lokka and 4.63 gears would go great with an air intake! (I'm your guy if you're interested!)

That's a head scratcher. Locking the hubs would cause more thing to spin. Unlocking the hubs would mean things aren't spinning, which makes it pretty hard for idle parts to cause vibrations.

Now there's an old-timer name I recognize from the forums! caR50! Your truck surfaced here a few years ago with its new owner, if I recall correctly. Your old ARB front locker before your SAS got passed around, ended up in my truck pre-SAS, and is now in TowndawgR50s hand...an exchange for all his help on my project. Welcome back, man. To answer your questions: The vibration was there long before the project. Honestly, I think one of the tires just needs to be re-balanced, but it could just as easily be from the 6" of lift and the pinion angle. I get a slight driveshaft rumble when coasting and decelerating still, but it's subtle (it used to be pretty bad). I will eventually be correcting a few things back there with longer upper and lower trailing arms. I do have a tapped output shaft on the t-case, plus a Calmini SYE on hand for whenever I get around to tackling things. Toe and camber...I hope so. I pulled the drag and tie-rod off over the weekend to get a feel if maybe the ball joints were too tight...but they seem ok. I was hoping to adjust the preload on them, but that didn't go well so left it alone. No worries on any criticisms! They're accepted here, for sure, especially since I know you've done the work before. Crossmembers and other support in general was something I put a lot of thought into, and honestly, I think I need maybe one more support somewhere. One thing I considered was trying to square-up things up where the chassis rails meet the radiator support because of where the steering box was mounted...but the location of the box itself is what made it difficult. Eventually, when I do a bumper, it'll likely have an integrated skid that will reinforce the radiator mount. Though, the subframe didn't really add any support under the radiator, but it did stiffen things below the engine. That is something I would like to restore, but it'll have to be directly under the engine without interfering with the diff snout, and space is pretty limited. I'm considering two approaches, though...one that would be bolt-on using the motor mount perches. The other is one of those "in hindsight" things where I'd have to remove everything to do, but would be the best approach...I'm just not ready to take it all apart! Notably, during the design process, I really wanted to just to a simple support bar running from the upper panhard mount to the passenger rail, but there really wasn't a straightforward way to do that, so I instead opted to C-box the entire rail and put whatever I could in place to prevent any twisting from the leverage at the panhard. All said...I'm not sure how necessary all this is at this point, but I think I would like to have it eventually. I think the towers are strong enough, yes. But I have considered a strut tower brace a few times. My biggest problem is that space is such a premium on these trucks, and the passenger strut area eventually ended up being the most suitable place to mount my compressor and all my solenoids. The compressor mount already mounts using the strut tower, so I'd have to get really crafty to make it work. For now it'll have to suffice. Fck. You're right. I didn't even think about it like that...been so used to dealing with speedo sensors on my other Nissan and tire-gear corrections that I didn't even realize the disconnect here. Or hell, how I didn't realize that when I jumped to 4.63's long ago? Well, now I know. Thank you for enlightening us! So, I guess the good news is I've still accounted for performance from the engine's perspective, just not from the computer's perspective. Custom tone rings with more teeth would've done the trick then, and I would've had everything apart at one point to change them (including the rear)...but that's extremely impractical now. I guess I need to see what sort of inline module I can find or make to bump up the voltage on the signal then. OR, I could go back to stock tires!!

I'd be surprised is a manual hub is making noise, let alone causing any shudder. Those are hubs are either engaged or they're not...and to that extent, they're either working or they're broken. There's not really anything in between. Rumbles at a speed range that tend to go away outside the range I almost always attribute to rear driveshaft. Bad u-joints, specifically, but in some cases, a shift in the u-joint at the yoke causing the driveshaft have some an imbalance caused by excessive run-out. But technically, any imbalance will do it. ...of course, if you have a transmission code, that's always suspect.

Ha, I just did this the other week to pass emissions (it worked). But, a few things to know: I started with Dorman 42109. They're like a mile long and comically shiny for something you don't want to be visible, depending on where you are and how emissions are done (no concern for you since WA doesn't do emissions). However, the length is fine for the driver's side, but on the passenger side it'd be a tight fit because the sensor will be up against the transmission. I ended up not even opening the package and returned them. I used Dorman 42009, which are shorter and also a little on the shiny side. However, these need to be drilled out sufficiently to clear the sensor tip... Lastly, and perhaps the most important part: keep in mind these are sold as "spark plug de-foulers/non-foulers" and are not meant for O2 sensors. In my case, I realized that the O2 sensor on my passenger side has a tip that much larger than the sensor on my driver side. So even after drilling them out, it would not fit on the passenger side without compromising the threads of the adapter. If you go this direction and the O2 sensor tip is too big, this approach likely won't work. A 90° might be okay and clear the passenger side.

A few years ago, I briefly had a 00 Frontier with the pop-up sunroof. I think I recall that it was the same as the W/D21 and WD22 X units. I realized it also shared parts with the T-top panels from Z cars, including the twisty things, which were broken on my cover. If you do decide to keep/repair things, try Amayama for parts. They appear to have new gasket (73873-15F05) and seal (73872-01M05) available, and if the cover clip part on the glass is just glued on and is broken some other way (can't tell in the pics), I suspect 73565-03P00 might be what you're looking for. The twisty part I needed was 73556-16P00, but I don't recall what color it ended up being. Had to take a guess on your exact body code using WHYD21 (your specific body code is on your VIN plate somewhere, but should be all the same): https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/terrano/whyd21/5415-vg30e/body/H7301 But I get not wanting to keep it, especially if a rack would prevent operation. Some sort of overhead box or mount would be cool, though.

Alright, got it through emissions and re-registered! Only 8 months late... Last night I installed a non-fouler on the downstream driver's O2 sensor and it seemed to do the trick. Not only did the P0430 not move to stored to screw up my day, but it's also no longer in pending. Steering was a little more squirrelly today. I need to get to the bottom of that. But otherwise, the truck is operational. Hoping to do a shakedown run soon.

It's as good a guess as any, so I'll take it. I think it's an average, too. I don't think my scanner has very granular data units, and I suspect it's programmed to do its own conversion of voltage to speed based on "Nissan" vehicles that's slightly different from the speedometer. It's reasonably close, but I trust the speedometer more than the scanner. It's just useful to confirm that the wheel sensors are functioning. The FSM shows no other data inputs to the ABS system beyond the wheel sensors and the G-sensor, unless I had the all-mode setup or VDC. VDC-equipped trucks do use CANbus. But otherwise seems very clear cut in descriptions, diagrams, and schematics. Single wire feed from the ABS unit to the gauge cluster. A speedo calibration box is basically what I need to find and just put it on that wire. But still, the total offset I'm seeing just doesn't make sense.

Took the truck for about a 45-mile drive on Saturday to get it emissions-ready...and it's ready. The day didn't go as planned in terms of driving it and taking it straight to emissions, and annoyingly, when I got home I saw that there's a pending P0430 code. I can still get it tested in that state, but I'm screwed if the code becomes "stored". Fingers crossed I can get it through emissions before it stores. Overall, the truck did well! Got it up to 75mph without the axle falling off (there's still a vibration from the rear that was there before the SAS). It still wanted to wander a tiny amount, but manageable. The toe is dialed in, but the caster may still need some dialing in. Steering is still a little on the heavy side, even after removing the stabilizer. I may need to explore options for a smaller pump pulley, perhaps. Brakes work great. Acceleration seems to suck, but I feel like I was facing some issues before the swap. During the project, I had swapped out the radiator...the truck ran nicely right at 185°F the entire trip, no overheating...which was an issue before the project. I tried to find some dirt near the end of my drive, but the little spot in the desert I was planning to check out has since been gated off. I had to settle for some gravel under an overpass. Gears, lockers, and sway bar disconnect working just fine. No real articulation test, and being so close to the road couldn't really kick up any dust. Once it's through emissions and re-registered, I'll do a shakedown. The only thing that is completely baffling me right now is the speedometer. It's way off, and in the wrong direction...it reads slower than actual. I'm expecting it to read about 5% faster than actual, but somehow it's about 8% slower than actual...which makes absolutely no sense. I've confirmed (as I already knew before) that the speedometer gets a voltage signal directly from the ABS control unit based on the wheel sensors. There is not a mechanical or electrical speedo pinion on my t-case like there was on older/other Nissans with the TX10/A. There is a VSS turbine sensor on the transmission, but everything in the FSM says the signals come from the ABS system. My OBDII scanner displays live data and all 4 sensors were reading in unison when expected (the rear tone rings being my control data), but interestingly, there is a VSS data point that also seems to read the same. Notably, the wheel sensor speeds were all about 6% slower than the speedometer, which was about 8% slower than actual as measured with GPS (via my iPhone which is spot on in my other newer vehicles in stock form). In real numbers, we're talking like 52 mph on the sensors, 55 mph on the speedometer, and 59 mph via GPS. It makes for a delicate balance when the speed limit is 55, I need to be positively in the 53-60 mph range for several minutes, and not get busted for speeding in a truck with expired tags (though technically, I got a 3-day restricted use permit to do this drive), without pissing off other drivers. But anyway, it just doesn't make sense. I've crunched the numbers on this multiple times...I have a full blown spreadsheet that handles all my what-ifs and calculations. My tires are about 13% larger than stock (32.7" vs 29.1") and my gears are 17.4% lower (4.363 vs 5.125)...so I'm expectedly over geared by 4-5%, not under geared by 8%. The truck seems to behave like it's over geared in terms of acceleration, but I'm trying to figure out why the speedometer is so far off. Even if I can re-index the needle on the cluster, the input signal is still what's ultimately too low. There's not really a good way to boost the voltage signal up, but I'm all ears if there's any EEs in the crowd.

I tend to stick with NGK, as far as brands go. Nissan OEM, tried and true. As far as which flavor...the cost-to-mileage ratio used to be fairly linear, but it's gotten diluted as the cheaper plugs have just become overpriced and rival better-performing plugs. In you case, going with those ruthenium ones you linked at $11/ea beats paying $10/ea for the OE-recommended double platinum ones (p/n 6240, a.k.a. PLFR5A-11) because you'll basically have a plug that far exceeds platinum tech in every way, including not having to replace them for another 100K-120K miles (vs. 50K-60K). Ultimately, I'd love for you to keep that engine running up toward 400K! Hose and jet sprayer probably isn't terrible. Otherwise, get a can/bottle of engine degreaser, head to the local spray-n-wash, spray the degreaser on and let it sit a couple minutes, then wash it off. Of course, a lot of spray-n-wash places have built in engine degreaser modes, plus a reduced spray for underhood use...but I like to go full blast.

Replacement on packs and plugs entirely depends on what sort of age, mileage, or wear they've experienced. Usually can't go wrong changing the plugs, especially if you don't know when they were last changed. Coil packs...usually not a need to replace them unless there's a problem (they're not usually cheap items x 6). How are the belts? Oil change? Power washing the engine and underneath after all is said and done wouldn't be a terrible thing either.

The hub should already contain what little grease it needs, and you don't want to pack it with grease like you might expect. A light amount is all that's needed to help it disengage. R50s came with drive flanges (fixed flanges) instead of auto hubs. Pry the cap off to access the snap ring, remove it, then it should come off easily by undoing the 6 nuts. Those hubs come with a paper gasket, but don't use a large o-ring like the drive flanges and other hubs do. You can put a little grease on the boss if you'd like to help keep a little moisture out.

Soak them in some vinegar for a bit or diluted CLR. I went with cheap replacements off Amazon on my other truck.

No need to take out the headlight. The bottle is two parts: the body and neck. The next is attached besides the headlight using a 10mm nut. The neck just seals into the body and has an o-ring on it. The nuts that hold the body (also 10mm) are pretty accessible from underneath/behind the bumper cover. The washer pumps just press into the opening. If the hole is at the bottom, you might not need to remove anything. Not sure how you plan to patch it, but I recently patched mine using a 2-part Gorilla Glue epoxy. I accidentally cracked it at the corner. Despite it not being recommended for it due to the plastic type, it seems to have held on well enough so far. I just made sure to scuff and clean the area well enough and applied a generous amount. Heat from the cure didn't seem to be a problem.