hawairish

Not sure I'd splash $220(!) on wheel studs, unless they rotated my tires automatically, and made bacon in the morning. But yes, it's an option. And of course, the obvious note is that if you just need replacement studs, here are your part numbers (not that RockAuto doesn't make it easy to find that). The other takeaway is that as long as whatever replacements you plan to go with are within the knurled diameter tolerances, you should be in pretty good shape.

Also, I just posted this up: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/39147-longer-wheel-stud-options/

Thought I'd consolidate some notes, since a lot of people run wheel spacers and seem to want/need longer wheel studs. As mentioned in another post, I replaced the front studs on my 2004 Pathfinder SE with rear studs, which are 3/8" (9.5mm) longer, to run 1/4" wheel spacers. Summarized from Dorman's catalog (link) and cross-referenced at RockAuto (and sorry if this table comes out all jacked up): Dorman Knurl Diameter Thread Under Head Length RockAuto Application P/N in mm in mm 610-240 0.512 13.00 M12-1.25 1.260 32.00 87-04 Pathfinder (front) 610-320 0.505 12.83 M12-1.25 1.634 41.50 87-04 Pathfinder (rear) 610-403 0.508 12.90 M12-1.25 1.791 45.49 93-95 Infiniti J30, 93-98 Nissan Quest 610-295 0.508 12.90 M12-1.50 1.476 37.49 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda 610-507 0.512 13.00 M12-1.50 1.764 44.81 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda 610-410 0.508 12.90 M12-1.50 1.811 46.00 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda 610-409 0.508 12.90 M12-1.50 2.205 56.01 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda The options above should allow running a 1/2" spacer up front (use J30/Quest studs), and 1/4" at all corners (610-410 up front and 610-409 in the rear) with a different thread pitch. I think most people are just running spacers up front, though. If you pair the longer length studs to your wheel spacers (i.e., 1/2" longer for 1/2" spacers), your stock lug nuts will work, but I recommend longer (and/or new) lug nuts anyway. You'll obviously need them if you change thread pitch. Longer nuts are not to increase thread contact, but instead so the wheels can be installed if the spacer needs to be removed. Stock nuts are acorn style and either 29mm or 35mm. Not shown above is knurled shoulder length which, for the most part, is negligible. The wheel hub thickness and wheel nut seat depth will consume all of this, even without a spacer. However, some could be too tall without a spacer (possibly 610-409 with a 1.14" shoulder). Should length should be at least the thickness of the wheel hub, so double-check the Dorman catalog. If you have steel wheels, the material at the nut seat is likely also thinner than aluminum wheels, so keep that in mind, too. Studs and lugs at all corners is about a $60 project and a few hours of work. I used a $15 ball joint separator from Harbor Freight to press the lugs out, and an open-ended lug nut (Dorman 611-065) with a thick washer to seat them. The front wheel hub assembly will need to be removed from the truck. For the rear, a big hammer and a drift punch should unseat them (but it's been a very long time since I did this on my Frontier). You'll obviously want to confirm your particular application, but hopefully this is a good starting point.

Not sure about the minimum center bore, but yes, the lug studs are M12x1.25.

CDN_S4: Didn't mention it in this thread, but I used rear wheel studs up front for my spacers. Posted here.

Perfect timing, totriz...I was actually just surfing around to confirm exactly this. (Yes, literally the LE 17" wheel and RR hub combo.) Thanks!

Not sure if you got around to doing this or not, noquarter89, but replacing the front isn't too bad. As NissanBoston mentioned, you do have to remove the wheel hub assemblies because there's not enough clearance to remove the studs once loosened. I did it in about 2.5 hours (tires off to tires on), replacing all 12 front studs. I have moderate/high mechanical skills and only hand tools, a floor jack, and some stands. The only specialty tools I used were ring pliers (I think just for the manual hubs I have, don't recall), a Harbor Freight ball-joint separator (p/n 99849), and torque wrench. (The ball joints do not need to be separated, but I used the tool to pop the wheel studs out.) Removing the wheel hub bearings usually requires special tools, so take the following at face value: I've only needed (for a Nissan anyway) nothing more than a couple metric machine screws, a Phillips and flat screwdriver, an awl, large sockets, and a rubber mallet or mini-sledge to remove and install them. You'll obviously want to be familiar with the process, especially during re-installation (you'll need to ensure the bearings are seated, and that the safety washer is appropriately secured...you will tighten it to spec and then back it off just a little). Removing the wheel studs just requires the ball joint separator and wrenches/sockets (resist the need to use a hammer). Installation's done with a thick washer, and some open-ended acorn-style lug nuts (cheap, disposable), and a torque wrench. If you don't have a vice (like me), you can just replace one stud at a time and use the other studs (with a lug nut and wrench) to give you some leverage.

Sorry to resurrect an old post as my first post at NPORA. Seems I bought the OP's Pathfinder earlier this year, just stumbled on this, and thought I'd share how I reverted his setup a little, since I wanted the same thread pitch at all corners (a problem discovered when I tried to install wheel locks) but needed to account for the spacers and hubs. I replaced the front studs with OEM studs for the rear, which are 3/8" (9.5mm) longer. The .0067" difference in the knurled diameter is negligible; the knurled shoulder height is irrelevant (at .1574", it's either consumed by the spacer or the lug nut seat of the wheel anyway). They've also got the same pitch, obviously. The Dorman p/n is 610320 (Dorman front is 610240); RockAuto has all the specs. They installed without a hitch (as expected). Also bought a new set of lug nuts for all corners; $20 on eBay, taller than stock to ensure clearance up front, match the height of the wheel locks, and fit the stock tire iron.