hawairish

I'm sure the parts are different, but I doubt it excludes the possibility of it not fitting. There is a design difference on the OEM blades (excluding aftermarket fans), but I doubt it's worth a mind-blowing $60 extra bucks if all difference is some slanted blades. Anyway, the next time someone's tooling around the engine, please give it a look. You can actually get an approximate measurement from underneath the truck. Just look up at the back of the fan clutch for four round flat spots on the perimeter...it's the backside of where the screws install (the hole isn't exposed). I measure about 4.25" between the flat spot centers.

That's just dumb luck there, Itsnotme. Whatever that bar is from, you caught it at the worst angle. Sucks. If you bought them from TireRack, I'd take the chance and ask them if it's covered. Perhaps you purchased their Road Hazard coverage? How long ago did you buy them, or how old are the tires? There's a 4-digit date code on the tire's sidewall that has the week and year of manufacture...ex. 3412 = 34th week of 2012.

Wow, what did you run over anyway? I think the problem you'll have is that a tire shop won't repair it. The whole liability thing. It looks like you severed a few of the metal belts. Probably less concerning that it's in the center tread (you'll just end up--hopefully--with only a flat should a repair fail), but wheeling it again may only aggravate things. As a spare not taken off-road? Sure. Any warranty options? I use Discount Tire around here (America's Tire elsewhere), and they've been awesome about that stuff, even if I didn't buy the tire from them. I've had some unrepairable tires (ignoring for a moment what we think is "repairable" or not) that were replaced outright if they appeared warranty-able (just paid unmount/mount/disposal fees), or I was allowed to buy a new replacement less a pro-rated value of the damaged tire, since it still had considerable treadwear left. They've even offered warranties on some new Rubicon take-offs (Wrangler MTs) I picked up on Craigslist the other year. (And they do free tire repairs, of course.) I'd explore some other options with your local tire shops if they can't/won't repair it.

While crawling underneath the truck yesterday, I noticed my radiator fan has a buttload of cracks along the housing, but still appears to be relatively intact. I'd obviously prefer that it not grenade under the hood, ever. A replacement fan (p/n 21060-6P000) runs about $100 from my normal online Nissan parts stores. But for that amount, I might as well go electric. Fans for the 3.0L/3.3L engines run significantly less, like $30. I have the 3.5L. Anybody know if it fits? It's a square 4-bolt pattern, so if anyone can take a peek and grab a bolt-to-bolt length (or if you just so happen to have a fan or clutch sitting around), that'd be appreciated. There might be enough space to get a measurement without removing anything. There are also some cheap-o electric fan options on eBay. Any experience with either these or brand name products?

They're on RockAuto (Dorman p/n 905-402). Look under Steering > Rack and Pinion Bushing. Or this for a couple bucks less and free shipping: http://www.ebay.com/itm/261049354065. Both options are a little cheaper than buying from courtesyparts.com or nissanparts.cc. The sway bar bushings are under Suspension > Stabilizer Link Bushing. You've got options there. I'd recommend the split design to ease installation. But otherwise, a single cut in the bushing has the same effect. I'm planning to replace these while I'm undoing things later in the month.

Ideally, you'd want to match up the SFD spacer thickness to the amount of lift you're already achieving; this would put the CV angles to stock. The only compromise at this point is ground clearance, which is probably a better sacrifice over busting CVs. But, I get where you're going.

Thanks guys. Hopefully I can contribute in other ways, in particular with some suspension part alternatives. Not to be naive, but I don't think lifting the R50 is as complicated as others have made it. The SFD is just to get my feet wet, but it's actually geared towards using OEM parts from other vehicles to replace the need for strut and coil spacers, and without needing to weld or cut anything. (Yes, longer struts, longer shocks, and longer coils...all OEM.) I've already got a list of some options, just need to hit the junkyard or buy some parts to confirm. Bushnut, why only 1.5"? Doable, sure. If you're serious about it, I'll spec things up and see how the results from my lift compare. I'm guessing you've seen some of the posts about problems finding steering shaft options for SFDs less than 4", right? I'm not convinced of a problem. My preliminary measurements suggest no shortage of off-the-shelf parts that can produce the correct amount of extension needed, without binding, and without rotating the R&P body. AC already sells a 2" extension for body-lifted Frontiers and Xterras, that by my count, has the same number of splines. But even if the shaft diameter is wrong, Summit and Jegs sell u-joints and various shaft lengths and diameters that coincide with my numbers. I need to pull all the joints and shafts off this weekend to be certain of the sizes. Fleurys, we actually chatted by email a few times several months ago. I had some suggestions about cost-savings for your plates, which I thought were awesome, albeit overkill for Joe Nissan. I'm glad you got a new set out there; hope it's showing some returns for your efforts. I thought about jumping on them this go-around after you emailed me, but I'm pleased with the ones I've got. I need to pull them down this weekend and get measurements on all the bolts and holes, since my SFD will also include a radiator support bar allowing me to keep your front plate. I cross-threaded one of those custom bolts in the 'missing link' a while ago, so I'll need to shear the bolt and cut that nylock off unfortunately. But, since the back half of the missing link is not being used, I just need to flip it around and get a new bolt. By the way, I'd recommend taking a look at boltdepot.com if you're still struggling to find inexpensive hardware. I plan on using them to source all my metric and imperial hardware for the SFD.

I suppose I could've posted this up a while ago, but thought I'd troll around a little instead and then circle back. I picked up a silver 2004 PF SE 4WD back in January as a birthday present. I previously had a 2008 Wrangler, but eventually traded it in after learning we were having a 2nd kid in a year (literally Irish twins, same birthday a year apart.) Came across this Pathfinder and had to have it: OME lift (and 1" spacer), front and mid skid plates from 4x4Design, rock rails, 31" Duratrac MTs, manual hubs, K&N filter, and just all around in great shape, and at the right price. Pretty much everything my Jeep had, albeit on a lesser, IFS scale. I recently stumbled across some posts here from the original owner, but I've been following along since the beginning of the year trying to get up to speed on my options. This is my 3rd Nissan, previously owning a 1998 Frontier 2wd and a 1990 240SX hatchback. The Frontier is still in the family, about to officially turn 200K miles, though it's closer to 230K since I ran it lifted on 31" for a few years. Aside from changing the clutch twice, it's nearly as it was from the factory (including starter and alternator I think), and the engine and transmission are otherwise untouched (uh, outside routine maintenance of course). That KA engine is indestructible. My Pathfinder just turned 167K, and I hope it can last just as long. The 240SX had its own story. Previously owned by my brother's buddy (between the two, they owned about 5-6 240SX's), it was once home to a RB20DET from an older Skyline. My brother bought the car, I helped him swap it into his 1989 240SX coupe (that car was stupid fast and fun!) in exchange for the rest of the car and his leftover KA24DE engine and parts. I had started to build it up as a turbo, but scrapped the project when I took a job in Minneapolis. I later got a new 2008 Subaru WRX to satisfy my turbo and AWD needs while living in Chicago, only to return to the desert and get the Jeep. I've begun collecting parts for a custom 2.5" SFD to stack with my OME setup to clear up room for 32" Wrangler MTs (surplus of take-offs for cheap around here, and I loved them on my Jeep). Stay tuned on the results, or PM if you want more details. Maybe I'll start a build thread. I also just pulled the trigger (today actually) on front poly bushings from AC and rears poly's off eBay, so the front and rear suspension will get an overhaul soon while it's getting more lift. Chat you guys later.

Don't know if this is applicable to you (just skimmed it) but http://www.higherground4x4.com/xterra_aux-in_1.htm. There are plenty other solutions I'm sure; Google "Nissan radio aux mod". But, why this route? Cheap, easy, stock look? I've considered the work you're wanting to do--and could do it easily, I'm sure--but I couldn't justify doing it. The time and money spent researching the process, getting parts, disassembling the truck AND radio, while hoping to not turn it into a toaster...just doesn't add up, even if I had all the parts laying around (which I actually might). If your factory radio plays cassettes, you're overlooking the most obvious solution: cassette adapter. Yes, they still exist. And they're $1 on eBay, man! Shipped!! Dirt cheap, dirt easy, dirt stock look. Fundamentally, it does exactly what you are wanting to do. (Seriously, I'm not even joking about this. I rocked one of these back in the day and loved it.) Obviously, if you're not set on this approach, there are other options. I'll gladly provide some if you'd like, and can even expand on the options mentioned above.

Not sure I'd splash $220(!) on wheel studs, unless they rotated my tires automatically, and made bacon in the morning. But yes, it's an option. And of course, the obvious note is that if you just need replacement studs, here are your part numbers (not that RockAuto doesn't make it easy to find that). The other takeaway is that as long as whatever replacements you plan to go with are within the knurled diameter tolerances, you should be in pretty good shape.

Also, I just posted this up: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/39147-longer-wheel-stud-options/

Thought I'd consolidate some notes, since a lot of people run wheel spacers and seem to want/need longer wheel studs. As mentioned in another post, I replaced the front studs on my 2004 Pathfinder SE with rear studs, which are 3/8" (9.5mm) longer, to run 1/4" wheel spacers. Summarized from Dorman's catalog (link) and cross-referenced at RockAuto (and sorry if this table comes out all jacked up): Dorman Knurl Diameter Thread Under Head Length RockAuto Application P/N in mm in mm 610-240 0.512 13.00 M12-1.25 1.260 32.00 87-04 Pathfinder (front) 610-320 0.505 12.83 M12-1.25 1.634 41.50 87-04 Pathfinder (rear) 610-403 0.508 12.90 M12-1.25 1.791 45.49 93-95 Infiniti J30, 93-98 Nissan Quest 610-295 0.508 12.90 M12-1.50 1.476 37.49 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda 610-507 0.512 13.00 M12-1.50 1.764 44.81 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda 610-410 0.508 12.90 M12-1.50 1.811 46.00 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda 610-409 0.508 12.90 M12-1.50 2.205 56.01 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda The options above should allow running a 1/2" spacer up front (use J30/Quest studs), and 1/4" at all corners (610-410 up front and 610-409 in the rear) with a different thread pitch. I think most people are just running spacers up front, though. If you pair the longer length studs to your wheel spacers (i.e., 1/2" longer for 1/2" spacers), your stock lug nuts will work, but I recommend longer (and/or new) lug nuts anyway. You'll obviously need them if you change thread pitch. Longer nuts are not to increase thread contact, but instead so the wheels can be installed if the spacer needs to be removed. Stock nuts are acorn style and either 29mm or 35mm. Not shown above is knurled shoulder length which, for the most part, is negligible. The wheel hub thickness and wheel nut seat depth will consume all of this, even without a spacer. However, some could be too tall without a spacer (possibly 610-409 with a 1.14" shoulder). Should length should be at least the thickness of the wheel hub, so double-check the Dorman catalog. If you have steel wheels, the material at the nut seat is likely also thinner than aluminum wheels, so keep that in mind, too. Studs and lugs at all corners is about a $60 project and a few hours of work. I used a $15 ball joint separator from Harbor Freight to press the lugs out, and an open-ended lug nut (Dorman 611-065) with a thick washer to seat them. The front wheel hub assembly will need to be removed from the truck. For the rear, a big hammer and a drift punch should unseat them (but it's been a very long time since I did this on my Frontier). You'll obviously want to confirm your particular application, but hopefully this is a good starting point.

Not sure about the minimum center bore, but yes, the lug studs are M12x1.25.

CDN_S4: Didn't mention it in this thread, but I used rear wheel studs up front for my spacers. Posted here.

Perfect timing, totriz...I was actually just surfing around to confirm exactly this. (Yes, literally the LE 17" wheel and RR hub combo.) Thanks!

Not sure if you got around to doing this or not, noquarter89, but replacing the front isn't too bad. As NissanBoston mentioned, you do have to remove the wheel hub assemblies because there's not enough clearance to remove the studs once loosened. I did it in about 2.5 hours (tires off to tires on), replacing all 12 front studs. I have moderate/high mechanical skills and only hand tools, a floor jack, and some stands. The only specialty tools I used were ring pliers (I think just for the manual hubs I have, don't recall), a Harbor Freight ball-joint separator (p/n 99849), and torque wrench. (The ball joints do not need to be separated, but I used the tool to pop the wheel studs out.) Removing the wheel hub bearings usually requires special tools, so take the following at face value: I've only needed (for a Nissan anyway) nothing more than a couple metric machine screws, a Phillips and flat screwdriver, an awl, large sockets, and a rubber mallet or mini-sledge to remove and install them. You'll obviously want to be familiar with the process, especially during re-installation (you'll need to ensure the bearings are seated, and that the safety washer is appropriately secured...you will tighten it to spec and then back it off just a little). Removing the wheel studs just requires the ball joint separator and wrenches/sockets (resist the need to use a hammer). Installation's done with a thick washer, and some open-ended acorn-style lug nuts (cheap, disposable), and a torque wrench. If you don't have a vice (like me), you can just replace one stud at a time and use the other studs (with a lug nut and wrench) to give you some leverage.

Sorry to resurrect an old post as my first post at NPORA. Seems I bought the OP's Pathfinder earlier this year, just stumbled on this, and thought I'd share how I reverted his setup a little, since I wanted the same thread pitch at all corners (a problem discovered when I tried to install wheel locks) but needed to account for the spacers and hubs. I replaced the front studs with OEM studs for the rear, which are 3/8" (9.5mm) longer. The .0067" difference in the knurled diameter is negligible; the knurled shoulder height is irrelevant (at .1574", it's either consumed by the spacer or the lug nut seat of the wheel anyway). They've also got the same pitch, obviously. The Dorman p/n is 610320 (Dorman front is 610240); RockAuto has all the specs. They installed without a hitch (as expected). Also bought a new set of lug nuts for all corners; $20 on eBay, taller than stock to ensure clearance up front, match the height of the wheel locks, and fit the stock tire iron.