hawairish

I hear ya...that's how this project started. I only need new bushings on my trailing arms and I figured, "well, while I'm at it..." I wasn't planning to jump on anything until January because I'll be traveling for work and the holidays, but nothing really prevents me from getting a kit together before then. I won't be able to confirm if everything fits until the Thanksgiving weekend, but the steering link is the only thing I have any concern over. How soon would you need it?

Solid info, much appreciated! I think it's close enough to work. Still curious to hear what else Paul's looking for. Saw his post in the Random R50 pics thread with an idea to black out the rails and such. Maybe a more striking tone or body colored? What about billet grilles/inserts? According to this guy, a Hardbody bed fits a Pathfinder no problem. Those body lines are seamless, but his departure angle took a small dive. At least he can still tow a boat.

Don't know why it didn't cross my mind earlier, but just go here: http://www.nissanusa.com/recalls-vin. The dealership will cover the costs of any recalls. I've got an 04 SE and mine turned up negative. Though, that's not to say a recall is still in the works...I haven't been following the issue closely.

Best you can do at this point is wait for your VIN to be called if it's affected...and drive safe.

That's a great looking truck! You'd be my hero if you got those fan numbers for me. My dad says the bolt pattern on the Frontier appears to be the same, but I think the fan diameter is less (4-cyl). I'm probably making a fuss over a fan with several more years on it, but the last time something self-destructed under my hood (power steering idler pulley bearing), it wasn't a fun experience (whatwasthatnoise+oh$4itwheresmysteering?!). Ha, and I used a bearing from a 240SX because they didn't sell one separately for a Frontier yet and the price on a new pulley assembly was outrageous. Oh, Nissan.

Awesome, thanks fellas. The subframe spacers in particular I think you guys are going to like. The pic shows 3/16" thick steel, and those are going to be overkill. Quoting CDN_S4 from his build thread: "There's no kill like overkill!". I'm going to drop down to 11ga (.120) steel going forward, which means I'll have a set of Super Beef Limited Edition subframe spacers for someone special. Shall I paint them gold, too? While 11ga sounds underwhelming, it's the same thickness as the subframe and unibody. Since the spacers will have rigid cores, it'll be plenty strong. Y'all just have to wait for more pics. Since I'm not doing the welding, I'm also having to wait to see the parts. Tomorrow I'm planning to order up the steering link, which is the last thing I need to order. The steering link has been possibly the most time consuming part to research (and also the most expensive). I was hoping to find a compatible Nissan link or components, but the Pathfinder steering setup is too unique. The steering link will be the same high-quality link that KRFabs provides (but at a different length, of course). I crawled around the truck tonight to compare the new brake lines with what's installed. Looks like it will be a perfect fit. Per their specs, they should be 2" longer up front and 6" in the rear. It looks like it may also be possible to get another 1-2" up front with a simple bracket. The rear line will be 6" longer. I won't know with absolute certainty that everything fits until I get into it, but it's looking good.

Oh yeah, and Paul, I hear you about wanting that unique look. I remember seeing a thread around here with pics from a Middle Eastern group that got together at the dunes one day. Some of the pics looked like a line-up at the dealership. What sorts of mods are you looking for anyway? Aesthetic, performance, utility, other?

Sorry, Precise1, I was speaking in general about aftermarket parts compatibility across different makes. I know Paul was asking more for cross-Nissan, though. To your point, I'm certain there are plenty of things from a WD21 that carry over, especially in regards to the engine and drivetrain. I even know firsthand that WD21 UCAs fit a 1998 Frontier 2WD, but are too long...with an elongated LCA, though, it'd have given for more lift (and travel) than my Fabtech lift ever did. I've also done a few conversions (AT to MT, 4-lug to 5-lug, KA24DE to SR20DET) on 240SXs (S13 and S14) to know about Nissan's craftiness. Even recently, I've been looking to seeing if an Altima or Maxima steering link would be a cheaper replacement over a new steering link for the SFD. And as mentioned, I'm in a similar struggle to find a different radiator fan option. If your sig truck still looks like that today, I'd let you prove your point by measuring the fan blade diameter and mounting pattern for me (please?).

By the way, I meant "anyone" in the OEM/aftermarket world, not us good folks here on the forum. I think we're all excited when we find out something actually does fit our trucks, even if it's not supposed to. To touch on your other questions: no, a Frontier/Navara bar won't work as-is (framed chassis vs. unibody). You'd likely need to cut the mounts and weld new ones, or fab up some brackets. If you can find an LSD from one, an Xterra, or Pathfinder (in your case, possibly even a Patrol if they exist), you might be in luck. Despite different rear suspensions, the 3rd members on the axles (assuming they're H233B axles) may be interchangeable depending on the splined axle shaft sizes. F/N/X/P's share the same front axle family name (R200A) but they're different in mounting styles and low vs high pinion. There's a front Lokka available for it though, and on the cheap right in your backyard, and a good write-up on how to install it on a couple forums.

The other problem is that the Pathfinders alternate between framed and unibodied chassis, so even then, you're generally limited to only R50 parts unfortunately, and the 2 sub-generations created a minor rift in part numbers, although the parts are nearly identical. I've been spending a good amount of time lately trying to cross-reference near-compatible parts. MANY parts are not specifically for R50, but similar parts are within a reasonable tolerance, or otherwise are only different because of simple dimensions (and may be exactly what is needed anyway). Nissan uses metric sizes of course, but what you'll find is that there's usually enough tolerances to fit Imperial sizes nicely (except on bolt/nut threads of course). That helps open up some possibility for other parts. You'd be surprised about what's possible just by using Nissan's online parts database, other online parts dealers, and specs that aftermarket suppliers readily provide. Case in point: I'll soon be using OEM brake lines from two other Nissans models, shocks for an older Ford F-250, and steering u-joints sized for Toyota and older Datsuns (although not from those vehicles; new parts). I'm also hoping to fit a radiator fan for a VG30/33 on a VQ35 to save up to $70, but no one's been willing to help get me some dimensions there and specs aren't available online. The only part needing any work will be the shocks, and that's just switching around the bushings so I don't have to mount it upside down. Anyway, bottom line is that you just have to be creative in your search. Forget about anyone saying "this part fits", it won't happen here. That said, looking for anything in particular?

I've gotten a good idea why others aren't going with the 4" kit, but is a smaller kit any more compelling? I've been piecing together a 2.5" SFD for my 04 SE and will install it at the end of the month. I'll be test fitting a 1.5" version while I'm at it. I'm considering putting together a few kits if there's a demand. The kits would include all new hardware, subframe and motor mount spacers, and a new steering link. There are no strut spacers included because this is geared towards guys already running a lift and looking to correct their CV angles. But you could add your own strut spacers for more lift if desired (that's what I'm doing). Metric Class 10.9 and OEM hardware to replace all subframe fasteners with as few bolts as possible. Welded subframe spacers for better strength, better unibody pad contact, and the same amount of material as a simple tube (or less/lighter with thinner gauge steel). Front and rear extended brake lines (pending fitment). A spacer to keep your skid plate. And even rear bump stop extensions (something often overlooked). Targeting a price under $400 for everything. I may do a budget-friendlier variant that uses additional US Imperial Grade 8 hardware, simple tube spacers, and less of the latter stuff. But my personal kit will be as above. So...anyone interested? Questions? I'd love to know what other concerns (costs, installation, safety) that might keep people on the fence if these options existed. Oh, and...

Stumbled across these on eBay tonight. This could be a pretty sweet deal. (No, this isn't my auction, and I don't know the guy. For reals.) The part numbers on his invoice have AC's part numbers for the R50 kit and hardware. Sucks that the pic has everything still wrapped, but the bushings on the right have the same blue-ish purple-ish tint of the SuperPro bushings that AC sells, and the hardware looks legit. It also looks like he got them cheaper than what AC sells them for today. The listing came up as a recommended item because I recently bought these poly bushings off eBay. (This isn't my auction either, and I don't know the seller. I swear I'm not here for shameless plugs.) Has anyone tried the ones I bought? The price was about $30 cheaper than new upper and lower arms from RockAuto (which I spent on the HF sawzall I'll need to surgically remove the OE ones ), and they're poly. They appear to be a solid set, but I'll know more when they're installed later this month. Also, if you plan on replacing hardware, these are the Nissan P/Ns and quantities: 4x 54368-0W02A: Lower link front bolt L&R, Upper link rear bolt L&R 4x 55080-0W00B: Lower link rear bolt L&R, Upper link front bolt L&R 8x 08918-6441A: Rear link flange nuts Nissan gives a bunch of alternate parts for a particular bolt or two that are several bucks more expensive, but I don't see any physical difference between bolts on my truck (nor why one link would have a different, and more expensive bolt), and I recently measured all of them. Four short and four long. I'll know in a couple days for sure when the parts arrive...$23 bucks from courtesyparts.com (vs. $36 from AC) before shipping.

Good to hear, bushnut. I may replace mine too while I'm doing all my suspension work soon. I noticed the other day that my sway bar had shifted over a good bit may have damaged them (though I don't have any noise). Might just go poly while I'm at it. I'm also going with poly LCA bushings that AC sells. They're manufactured by SuperPro, and the price is actually pretty competitive. No one else was selling them for less, or had them available. New arms cost about the same, but of course there's the work of getting the front bushings out...

Yeah, the picture's not great, but the leak doesn't look brownish or blackish enough to be oil. Looks greenish and thin from that angle. I'd check for coolant leaks around the radiator hoses fittings on the block and water pump housing. Don't forget to check around the hose clamps.

That sucks. After seeing this post linked from the other thread, I was planning on picking up a set, too. The website's got a pretty solid price compared to RockAuto stuff. They give any timeframe for getting them re-stocked?

Ha, you can actually get this measurement just by peeking over the radiator fan, and the fan screw holes do go through the clutch. Can anyone with a VG please take a look and see if they can measure between the screw holes (center-center)? Looks closer to 106mm, 4-3/6"-ish.

I'm sure the parts are different, but I doubt it excludes the possibility of it not fitting. There is a design difference on the OEM blades (excluding aftermarket fans), but I doubt it's worth a mind-blowing $60 extra bucks if all difference is some slanted blades. Anyway, the next time someone's tooling around the engine, please give it a look. You can actually get an approximate measurement from underneath the truck. Just look up at the back of the fan clutch for four round flat spots on the perimeter...it's the backside of where the screws install (the hole isn't exposed). I measure about 4.25" between the flat spot centers.

That's just dumb luck there, Itsnotme. Whatever that bar is from, you caught it at the worst angle. Sucks. If you bought them from TireRack, I'd take the chance and ask them if it's covered. Perhaps you purchased their Road Hazard coverage? How long ago did you buy them, or how old are the tires? There's a 4-digit date code on the tire's sidewall that has the week and year of manufacture...ex. 3412 = 34th week of 2012.

Wow, what did you run over anyway? I think the problem you'll have is that a tire shop won't repair it. The whole liability thing. It looks like you severed a few of the metal belts. Probably less concerning that it's in the center tread (you'll just end up--hopefully--with only a flat should a repair fail), but wheeling it again may only aggravate things. As a spare not taken off-road? Sure. Any warranty options? I use Discount Tire around here (America's Tire elsewhere), and they've been awesome about that stuff, even if I didn't buy the tire from them. I've had some unrepairable tires (ignoring for a moment what we think is "repairable" or not) that were replaced outright if they appeared warranty-able (just paid unmount/mount/disposal fees), or I was allowed to buy a new replacement less a pro-rated value of the damaged tire, since it still had considerable treadwear left. They've even offered warranties on some new Rubicon take-offs (Wrangler MTs) I picked up on Craigslist the other year. (And they do free tire repairs, of course.) I'd explore some other options with your local tire shops if they can't/won't repair it.

While crawling underneath the truck yesterday, I noticed my radiator fan has a buttload of cracks along the housing, but still appears to be relatively intact. I'd obviously prefer that it not grenade under the hood, ever. A replacement fan (p/n 21060-6P000) runs about $100 from my normal online Nissan parts stores. But for that amount, I might as well go electric. Fans for the 3.0L/3.3L engines run significantly less, like $30. I have the 3.5L. Anybody know if it fits? It's a square 4-bolt pattern, so if anyone can take a peek and grab a bolt-to-bolt length (or if you just so happen to have a fan or clutch sitting around), that'd be appreciated. There might be enough space to get a measurement without removing anything. There are also some cheap-o electric fan options on eBay. Any experience with either these or brand name products?

They're on RockAuto (Dorman p/n 905-402). Look under Steering > Rack and Pinion Bushing. Or this for a couple bucks less and free shipping: http://www.ebay.com/itm/261049354065. Both options are a little cheaper than buying from courtesyparts.com or nissanparts.cc. The sway bar bushings are under Suspension > Stabilizer Link Bushing. You've got options there. I'd recommend the split design to ease installation. But otherwise, a single cut in the bushing has the same effect. I'm planning to replace these while I'm undoing things later in the month.

Don't know if this is applicable to you (just skimmed it) but http://www.higherground4x4.com/xterra_aux-in_1.htm. There are plenty other solutions I'm sure; Google "Nissan radio aux mod". But, why this route? Cheap, easy, stock look? I've considered the work you're wanting to do--and could do it easily, I'm sure--but I couldn't justify doing it. The time and money spent researching the process, getting parts, disassembling the truck AND radio, while hoping to not turn it into a toaster...just doesn't add up, even if I had all the parts laying around (which I actually might). If your factory radio plays cassettes, you're overlooking the most obvious solution: cassette adapter. Yes, they still exist. And they're $1 on eBay, man! Shipped!! Dirt cheap, dirt easy, dirt stock look. Fundamentally, it does exactly what you are wanting to do. (Seriously, I'm not even joking about this. I rocked one of these back in the day and loved it.) Obviously, if you're not set on this approach, there are other options. I'll gladly provide some if you'd like, and can even expand on the options mentioned above.

Not sure I'd splash $220(!) on wheel studs, unless they rotated my tires automatically, and made bacon in the morning. But yes, it's an option. And of course, the obvious note is that if you just need replacement studs, here are your part numbers (not that RockAuto doesn't make it easy to find that). The other takeaway is that as long as whatever replacements you plan to go with are within the knurled diameter tolerances, you should be in pretty good shape.

Also, I just posted this up: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/39147-longer-wheel-stud-options/

Thought I'd consolidate some notes, since a lot of people run wheel spacers and seem to want/need longer wheel studs. As mentioned in another post, I replaced the front studs on my 2004 Pathfinder SE with rear studs, which are 3/8" (9.5mm) longer, to run 1/4" wheel spacers. Summarized from Dorman's catalog (link) and cross-referenced at RockAuto (and sorry if this table comes out all jacked up): Dorman Knurl Diameter Thread Under Head Length RockAuto Application P/N in mm in mm 610-240 0.512 13.00 M12-1.25 1.260 32.00 87-04 Pathfinder (front) 610-320 0.505 12.83 M12-1.25 1.634 41.50 87-04 Pathfinder (rear) 610-403 0.508 12.90 M12-1.25 1.791 45.49 93-95 Infiniti J30, 93-98 Nissan Quest 610-295 0.508 12.90 M12-1.50 1.476 37.49 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda 610-507 0.512 13.00 M12-1.50 1.764 44.81 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda 610-410 0.508 12.90 M12-1.50 1.811 46.00 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda 610-409 0.508 12.90 M12-1.50 2.205 56.01 Misc. Hyundai/Kia, Mazda The options above should allow running a 1/2" spacer up front (use J30/Quest studs), and 1/4" at all corners (610-410 up front and 610-409 in the rear) with a different thread pitch. I think most people are just running spacers up front, though. If you pair the longer length studs to your wheel spacers (i.e., 1/2" longer for 1/2" spacers), your stock lug nuts will work, but I recommend longer (and/or new) lug nuts anyway. You'll obviously need them if you change thread pitch. Longer nuts are not to increase thread contact, but instead so the wheels can be installed if the spacer needs to be removed. Stock nuts are acorn style and either 29mm or 35mm. Not shown above is knurled shoulder length which, for the most part, is negligible. The wheel hub thickness and wheel nut seat depth will consume all of this, even without a spacer. However, some could be too tall without a spacer (possibly 610-409 with a 1.14" shoulder). Should length should be at least the thickness of the wheel hub, so double-check the Dorman catalog. If you have steel wheels, the material at the nut seat is likely also thinner than aluminum wheels, so keep that in mind, too. Studs and lugs at all corners is about a $60 project and a few hours of work. I used a $15 ball joint separator from Harbor Freight to press the lugs out, and an open-ended lug nut (Dorman 611-065) with a thick washer to seat them. The front wheel hub assembly will need to be removed from the truck. For the rear, a big hammer and a drift punch should unseat them (but it's been a very long time since I did this on my Frontier). You'll obviously want to confirm your particular application, but hopefully this is a good starting point.