hawairish

This?

I'm weighing it. If I go through the trouble of swapping in 4.636 diffs down the road, they're getting locked on the way in. As far as the company goes, the most common misconception I read was that TJM was realtively new to the locker game. Word on the street, though, is they've been badging lockers from a well-established company, Jack McNamara Differential Specialty Ltd., who've been making them for Land/Range Rovers, LandCruisers, and Hiluxes for decades. The pics at their website look exactly like the (few) TJM ones I've seen. http://www.mcnamaradiffs.com.au Some other murmurs indicate that TJM owns JMDS now; a couple US and AUS patents online indicate some truth to that, with TJM now being the patent owners. I guess I'm more curious why TJM loses the ARB war. Maybe it's a distribution thing? Though in AUS, they have TJM stores, so I'd expect some following there, too. I'd like to see a TJM vs ARB locker video...vs. Yukon Zip Locker

Does anyone have any experience with TJM Pro Lockers? Everyone is so goo for ARB, and I'm sure they're great, but I deem TJM to be reputable, too. Their air locker is nearly $100 cheaper...and all other TJM components are also cheaper than their ARB counterpart. Rugged Rocks sells the 33-spline (p/n 168PL04) and 31-spline (p/n 168PL05) variants for the H233B. One thing I like about the TJM is the pneumatic piston mounted on the carrier cap via bracket. This means that, in case of failure, it can be easily replaced without pulling the carrier or doing any related work. It might also mean that a custom mechanism could make it either electric or cable-driven by replacing the actuator, if someone wanted to forego having OBA. TJM and OX designs are very similar, and OX provides manual, electric, and pneumatic shifters for their lockers. The piston design also seems to overcome some issues with ARB's sealed bearing design. The interwebs haven't provided compelling reasons to not consider TJM. Anyone here have any thoughts?

Hmmm, you're right. Looks like the previous owner nixed it on mine for some reason. I see the parts in the rear axle diagrams for my VIN. Makes sense it'd be there, too, since the front axle definitely has a breather tube. I have been meaning to put a tube on it anyway.

Awesome. Upper shock mount? Maybe I should check that, too... I don't recall having a rattle until I did all my rear suspension work. Wow, that's a big monitor! How much time do you spend backing up?? Thought about one of those rear view mirrors with built-in monitor? They sell some that just clip onto your existing mirror for dirt cheap (<$30 US).

Exactly. I'm big into making things bolt-on. I plan to produce community-driven products; things that can be made from scratch (with provided instructions, parts lists, files, etc.), can be bought as unassembled pieces, or can be bought complete. Community feedback will be huge in revising, adding new features, or designing new products. And although I will make/sell whatever products I can, I will also encourage others to make/sell the products, too. This is more about promoting R50 ownership than it is about profiting; the market (if one) will guide itself. I also plan to be a snob and limit all products to the R50

Yeah, that X is dope. He even has a Gobi rack...I was dead-set on getting one of those for my Wrangler the other year; excellent product. LOL, aftermarket. Don't get me started...we're the bastards of the Nissan and off-road community. We're lucky to get back-handed in the face every now and then. You know we're off the radar when Smittybilt won't even fart a cheap tube bumper for us. I am hoping to change that a little this year. I've got some things I'd like to build for mine, with plans to make them available for others. The big items include a low-profile roof rack, rear bumper/carrier, and rear cargo rack. I'm also still working on making 2.5" SFD components available. There are also a few other utility items I'm considering, including made-to-order accessory panels for mounting "command center" items under the radio, like switches (OE or aftermarket), mounts (RAM or AMPS patterns for GPS, phone, etc.), socket-like accessories (USB sockets, voltmeters), or even 1-1/4" gauges. The one that I'm building for myself will allow me to mount my GPS on a ball, a dual-USB socket (1A/2.1A), and a 110V outlet. I like have power options; 12V sockets are antiquated...I've already replaced the one on the dash with a USB/AUX pod for my radio. Anyway, hopefully there will be some items to write about on your build thread in the future

Yeah, depending on how they extended it, they may or may not have terminated the tube. The way I've seen it done (and would do it myself) is to try to re-use the OE breather at the end, and then install it upright. Though, I don't think the rear breather tube is OE...is it? My Frontier and Pathfinder have the same type... And oh, that resonator Whenever I hear the word on our trucks, I think of some plastic piece of garbage.

What resonator? Not sure anything should be trapping condensation, except maybe the EVAP canister behind the driver's rear tire (though it should drain out). Is that what you're talking about? Yep, the front windshield defrost mode will run the AC compressor, even if the AC light (if one) isn't lit.

My noise is more like a thin piece of metal scraping on metal...like those pressure clips that hold the trim in...but none of my trim is loose. Looks like an extended diff breather tube. Not a bad find! Normally it's a stubby, loose metal cap on a barb with a hex fitting that rises maybe an inch off the pumpkin. Lets the diff breathe, keeps water out. Just put the open end of the hose as high up on the unibody as it'll reach and secure it. It was probably just tucked in wherever it would hold firm.

Gotcha. Yep, I have that spacer lift, too...1.5" strut spacer and 2" rear spring spacer. I run those plus another 0.5" spacer up front, and OME springs all around. I also have a 2.5" SFD to offset things. Either way, whether to replace the springs or studs, you gotta disassemble the strut...and as such, it's actually less work to just do the springs. No one sells a complete OME strut assembly that I'm aware of. I wouldn't sweat strut disassembly, but that's just me. I had a tougher time just re-installing just one strut with spacers than I did taking apart and re-assembling both struts. You can buy new "BRACKET-FRONT STRUT MOUNTING INSULATOR" (official Nissan name, p/n 54322-0W010) and press out those studs before disassembling anything. They're $14/ea at courtesyparts.com, and I think "NIS10" is still good for a 10-15% discount. You should also consider replacing other parts like the strut mount (the upper "hat" that has a rubber bushing in it) or the strut bearing since you'll have everything apart, and depending on how your existing parts are holding up.

Ha, yep. I wouldn't worry about it much, but some other options include: --soldering or crimping the pieces back together; you should be able to curl the ends into a butt splice connector and crimp --soldering or crimping a new body-side piece to the existing exhaust-side piece --make a new grounding strap using wire, a ring terminal, and a hose clamp You should also be able to bend the ring terminal on the body-side, as well as rotate it, to give you a little more slack. The body-side bolt should come out no problem. As B mentioned, the exhaust bolt is rusted...wouldn't even open that can of worms. On a parting thought, that strap shouldn't break under normal wear and tear...I just noticed mine the other day by coincidence and there seemed to be plenty of slack, and everything allows for flex (hence braided strap vs. stranded wire for all other grounds). How are your exhaust hangers? Or do you think this just got snagged on something?

Ah....yep, a misread. In order to get the 1.75", you only need the springs ($167/pair). They replace the springs on your current struts. The strut is just a fancy shock, and doesn't provide any lift, but the two are installed together. The $105 price tag is for a KYB GR2 strut (formerly their Excel-G line). KYB is a different manufacturer than OME. They're a good upgrade over stock, I hear. The OME struts are $209.95 each, and you'd need a left and right one. That said, if you went full OME up front, it'd be $587. Similar logic for the rear...only the springs will give you lift; the shocks are a supplemental item. You can mix-and-match here, too. OME makes it a point to advertise how complimentary their springs are with their shocks. Since you bought spacers, though, you might want to reconsider OMEs, or any lift, depending on how tall your spacers are. The front suspension can't really support more than 2.5" of combined lift without dropping the subframe (a la SFD). The rear can support a little more, but then you'll need to think about longer shocks. What spacers did you go with?

Lost me there . 1.75" struts? Didn't think the OME struts were any longer. Where you see them for $105? Nonetheless, the OME springs, struts, and shocks are excellent if you can justify the price. I've got them at all corners, though I had to remove the rear shocks to go with longer non-OMEs (and it's noticeably rougher).

No problem. Oh, and the instructions and torque specs are in the FSM. Pay particular attention to the markings and notches on the upper spring seat before disassembling and during re-assembly.

No luck on the rattle. That's the nice part about your setup...you already have a solid bumper in that carrier. Are you integrating that, or building new from scratch? As for the dual swing, it's actually not so bad. I plan to use tailgate struts to assist with opening, and holding open, both swings. I'm not a huge fan of the single long arms because they need a wide radius, and because of the leverage. Yours is ideal because the arm is already shorter. I've been talking with duke90 about the idea for a while, and he sent me a link that I hadn't seen before that was almost exactly what I was thinking: The creator of that bumper did an awesome job in real life (and his blueprints...check the last pages of the EDDMS...pdf at https://sites.google.com/site/r50projects4free/home). That center plate with the blue object...that's a padlock that prevents the plate from rotating. He can rotate the plate clockwise 90° to open the right swing, or counter-clockwise 90° to open the left swing. A simple right-then-left twist opens both gates. His design doesn't replace the factory bumper, but bolts using the hitch mounting bolts. He can also open his rear window. I would take a slightly different approach and have one arm secure the other arm (via overlocking tab or something) and then would only need to latch one arm. (And in some other pipe dream, I'll tie them in electromechanically so that if I pull the tailgate handle when the truck is unlocked, it'll release the swing arms...probably into my knees...or my blueberries.)

One thing I noticed in XPLORx's pics of those Calmini prototypes is that they rattle-canned a few areas to highlight their parts. On their front bumper, I noticed they blacked-out the washer fluid bottle. That's an option, too, I guess. I hear you on the tire carrier. I have an idea for a carrier as well, though I may take an Xterra-like approach and only build a center section, while cutting the bumper cover to create end caps. This has been my inspiration: Full thread at ExPo: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/6760-Casper-s-Xterra-Build?p=419803#post419803

I think I have that exact same rattle! Mine's also coming from that same area, and didn't happen until I changed shocks. I think mine's the tailgate or the tailgate glass...both can be adjusted at the strikers. I'm gonna take a look at it today. And the OMEs are great. I had to pull my rear OME shocks and went with some cheap Monroes for an F250...not a good pairing with the OME springs. Too harsh for my liking, but it was very comfortable before that. I bet it'll improve with some load though. That tube bumper looks slick. I'd like something similar but there's too much junk hanging down that's normally covered by the plastic. It'd be like a nice bikini on a lady that needs some lady-scaping, if you catch my drift.

Looks good man. Good use of space for utility, too.

You'll need to disassemble the strut assembly to remove them. That top plate has the studs pressed in, and they won't clear the upper spring seat for removal once loosened if the strut is still assembled. (At least that was the case for me.) A clamp-type ball joint press, a vise and sockets, or a hammer ought to work (I'd recommend them in that order). You can rent the 1st item from any auto parts store for $0. Put the new bolts in and re-assemble the strut. Chances are the new bolts won't be knurled at the ends, so they'll be loose (they're probably hex bolts). You can tack weld them, or put some JB Weld on the heads, but I was able to use an offset wrench wedged against metal to keep them from spinning while putting the nuts on. If you bought spacers from Fleurys (4x4Design), he threads his holes so that you don't have that problem. Before re-assembling the strut assembly, sandwich the top plate with the threaded spacers and bolts. There are a few posts about strut disassembly if thats new to you. It's a pretty straight-forward process, and the tools for it can also be rented for free.

Nice. Unfortunately new struts won't help with sagging issues...the only remedy is new springs. Spacers are basically our torsion bar re-work equivalent. The typical spacers you see replicate a torsion bar re-index; they give lift without altering the compression of the spring/torsion bar. NX4 is the only company I've seen that offers "mid-mount" spacers that install between the upper strut mount and the upper spring seat, essentially acting like a torsion bar crank; they give lift at the expense of additional compression on the stock spring/torsion bar. This is also essentially like swapping in a lift spring on a stock strut.

What about some MOLLE panels? Yeah, there are 4 C-ring anchors on the cargo floor, which I've replaced with these D-ring style ones (they're a perfect fit). The 2 plastic anchors are for a small cargo net or something. But the floor ones aren't involved with this pet carrier, but the other "loops" on the sides and pillar are. The loops themselves aren't used, but the bolts (screws) that hold that plastic in place are. The concern I have is I'm pretty sure they're a standard Nissan sheet metal screw instead of threaded, machine bolt. I've stripped body metal holes with this standard screws too easily. Not that I couldn't put a threaded insert or blind-nut in its place for peace of mind. (Ha, I wonder if I should incorporate LATCH points on my roof rack...)

Resurrection! I think 01LE is selling his on Kijiji, judging by the pics here and in the ad. The old part number seems to be NLA as mentioned previously, but 999M1-VN002 appears to be the 03-04 model equivalent (yet with a higher pricetag) and still available. My question: how secure is the barrier? Does it just discourage pets, or does it actually have some stopping power for cargo? It looks to be structural sound, especially with that built-in shelf. I don't have a dog, but I do have 2 toddlers (ha, and no, they won't be in the cargo area!). I'm planning to get some camping trips over the years, and the last thing I want is any cargo entering the middle row where the kids are, of course. I plan to build a storage system and low-profile roof rack to manage a lot of my gear, leaving mostly soft goods or storage containers above the seat line, if anything. Anyone with the OEM barrier had any concerns?

I also recently switched to LEDs. I went with blue on the cluster, AT, and HVAC, and 6K white on the ashtray, glove box, map lights, and dome lights. Major improvement...I can finally see my odometer at night. I've got the cluster with the embedded LEDs, so I could only change the 3 backlights (blue), 2 turn signals (green), and hi-beam (blue) bulbs. One of my sockets broke when twisted out...be careful with those...they're about $12 from the dealer, and the cheap ones you see on eBay are a different style. (Noting that there were two different types of clusters, and possibly bulb socket types). Also, to ease removing bulbs, I used a small piece of 1/4"ID rubber fuel hose. Fits perfectly over the bulbs, gives you all-around grip. Wiggle and pull. My Pioneer allows setting custom colors, so it's of the same blue now. The map and done lights were the best improvement, though the festoons I got weren't nearly the length they were supposed to be and I ended up bending tabs in the housing to make the fit, along with some other hacks: --soldering a 10k resistor to one of them because it was staying dimly light when it should've been off --cutting a little plastic cradle to keep one festoon from being able to rotate under vibration --crushing/crimping the ends of the rear dome lamp's festoon to make it fit Wasn't really pleased with having to do any of those, but the results look great. I plan to put some recessed LEDS in the tailgate hatch plastic so they shine down when the hatch is opened.

For #1...sorta. The 2004 Nissan Pathfinder Armada has a 5.6L V8. The V8 annoyingly shows up under "2004 Pathfinder" in a lot of parts databases, including RockAuto, or otherwise as a trim "Armada SE/LE" vs. "SE/LE". It occasionally catches me off guard when I'm asked at the local auto parts store if my 2004 has a V6 or V8, to which I normally pause before asking, "there was a V8 that year?" The Pathfinder designation was dropped the following year.