hawairish

Ha, yeah, waaaaaaay too much time thinking about it...not getting enough sleep! I'll try to document both processes (LSD and Lokka) to see if I can get more technical information in them. Would you mind taking measurements and pictures of the 3220-LR? The best observations I could make about it were from the Nissan Nut's website...unfortunately, I usually can't make sense of most of the stuff he writes, but the pictures really say everything (some of the pic links don't work, but the larger pics do exist...just need a little trickery to see them). It'd be nice to get a close-up of the teeth on the drivers. IIRC, you have machining skills, so you likely have a good idea of useful measurements. I can confirm whether it at least physically fits an open (likely) or LSD (doubtful) 33-spline carrier. Dimensions/drawings of the tooth face would be huge. Wishful thinking: maybe we can arrange a loan so I can test fit it?

Exactly...without knowing the stack height that actually came in certain LSDs, I can't make the correlations I'd like to. The FSMs do specify a stack height range per side (19.24mm-20.26mm), as well as wear and warp limits for the individual pieces. The pieces have nominal thicknesses of 1.4mm, 1.5mm (standard), and 1.6mm, with the exception of 6mm spacers that replaced 4 friction plates per side in 03-04 LSDs. Each side had 13 pieces (1-2 springs, 2-6 friction discs, and 5-9 friction plates), except for the ones with spacers (2/2/5 + spacer). These FSM specs didn't change from 94-04, so there's some degree of standardization there, and both the nominal and actual (sum of pieces) stack heights basically guide any repairs/rebuilds. I'll spare the theory, but I'm estimating 205 ft-lbs if I match the 5:6 ratio commonly found in the stronger LSDs, and replace friction plates with thicker friction discs. Funny you ask about the Lock Right. There were actually two of them (3210-LR and 3220-LR). The 3210-LR is for 31-spline only because it includes new side gears; it fits older D21s (pre-94) that have 1-piece 2-pin open carriers. The 3220-LR offered some hope: it re-uses the side gears, making it spline agnostic. However, the 33-spline 2-piece 4-pin carrier it'd need to work in simply never existed (33-spline open carriers are 1-piece 2-pin). My cross-refs suggest that 33-spline side gears would fit the 31-spline open carriers commonly found in WD21s, D21s, and 99-00/01-ish D22s that the 3220-LR was designed for, but the tooth cut on the 33-spline side gears would likely not mesh properly with the drivers (but it is the same tooth count, 16).

Yep, the rebuild will not only change the disc-to-plate ratio (from 2:9 to 5:6), but also add 1mm to the total clutch stack (which doesn't sound like much, but I'm at the very minimum stack height, and the range is 2mm more). I'm hoping to quantify the amount of torque when both ratio and thickness are changed, just to understand if the WD21 specs are a reasonable target. Better than nothing, no doubt. But I also would like to know to justify costs. $170 gets me the 5:6 ratio, but $340 gets me the ratio and max thickness. I'm trying to gauge if that basically spools it, but without knowing what the OE stack height was for WD21 (FSM doesn't specify this), it's trial-and-error. None of the write-ups really talk about that. MY1PATH's was very useful, but the lack of pictures on the Laxman one really kills the technical info that could be inferred. I posted in the WD21 forum because the LSD spec in question was last used in 95 (well, maybe in HBs, but I didn't check). Think this is better suited for the Garage forum? I would go with a locker, but it's the 33-spline and I'm not ready an air locker. The front is getting a Lokka, though.

The WD21s had a breakaway torque of 260-289. I presume this was still streetable...but was it good enough for the trail? I'm rebuilding a LSD to replace the open diff in my R50 and trying to determine a suitable target number. Thoughts?

Can't take credit for the work, but thought up the design the other night. Resolves issues with tool space and still features a rigid core like my current spacers. Got additional strut spacers the other day, and just need to order some hardware and new steering shaft piece. I plan to install everything at the end of the month, along with some drivetrain improvements. Will be busy, again.

Hmm, I still need to return my 180s. Fingers crossed. I made a list of the hardware I'll need, short of anything for related to the retaining component of all this. This has been on the back burner for me, too...big drivetrain upgrade in progress. On a side note, I was trying to gauge the amount of rotation that two of the 90s will allow for the front disconnect. Because the link is attached to the strut, it rotates a little as the strut pivots. Doesn't seem like the joints allow nearly enough movement as advertised. Thoughts? And agreed, those pin types would be way too loose I'm sure.

Taking a stab at the wiper problem: sounds more like a mechanical problem. Either the nut on the wiper's rotor is loose, or the internal gears on the motor assembly are worn. I'd start with the checking the nut in the center. As for the compass, maybe check out the owner's manual for the calibration process. Does the temperature display?

Yeah, I have no problem putting a ~31" under mine. It just barely clears the back of my hitch. My problem is that with my lift, the chain is too short and it makes it a little tough to remove the plate. Enter swing-away carrier mod...

The 3" SFD is finally moving forward...

Look familiar? http://www.warriorproducts.com/catalog-new/universal-parts/sway-bar-disconnects/ They're what Rocky-Road and AC appear to sell.

Yep, seen em. Common design. I've seen a few places that sell some exact like that.

To the point; I like it. After giving those pics and the FSM another look-over to gauge criticality, I can see where minute adjustments from the tool will be necessary. I was operating under the assumption that if everything is marked properly, it shouldn't take much additional adjustment. Seems I was making an ass out of u and mption. Plus, if my some chance the 33-spline locker comes alive this year...this tool might see daylight again.

That's kind of how I'm seeing it, though the ring itself looks to be pretty thick. Guess I'll find out soon enough...picking up some axles today to get the ball rolling on the next projects. Just wanting to see if anyone swears by the tool (or conversely, swears without the tool).

Personal preference. The more common setup I've seen is tee'ing the two together and running hose to some easily accessible point.

Rugged Rocks sells a tool for making adjustments to the side bearing adjusters, shown here: (Borrowed from http://www.parksoffroad.com/miscinstalls/95pathfinderlockright/pathfinderlockright.htm) The FSM references a similar tool. How necessary is it? Seems that a hammer and punch might be the poor-man's way to make minor adjustments (or a length of 1/4" bar steel to span across teeth and some lever), assuming I can mark it well enough and "set" it back in place. I assume there's a convenience with the tool, and I'd plan to use it at least once more...but likely never again after that. $46 (after S&H) isn't much...but it is for a limited-use tool. Anybody have any thoughts or experience?

His are lower location only, I believe. LiftMaker here on the forum sells the ones I have that go above the spring.

Oh yeah, your new bumper and winch...in that case, assuming your B&W combo consumes a good amount of your lift, then swapping the strut spacers may actually do you good. Without custom/WJ rear springs, you could add another spacers depending on your setup, but it's one of those things I'm wary of suggesting. If you have Fleurys' spacers, I'd only suggest adding a spacer that goes above the spring instead of stacking them, but I don't think more than one spacer per side is recommended.

Wouldn't lie. It's a misnomer to call the "subframe drop" a "lift"...it's only a lift because it includes 4" tall strut spacers. Switching from Fleurys' spacers to the KR spacers will net more lift than you want up front (if you want to stay level, that is). If you go with them, you'd need to get more rear lift.

Remember: subframe spacers don't add any lift. Strut spacers do, but that's why we talked about not using them. What about rear air bags? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37190-air-lift-1000-leveling-air-bags/

Your spacers will likely dictate the answer. If you have Fleurys' spacers, you'll need fully-threaded tap bolts at whatever thread pitch the spacers are tapped to. If you have the ones from AC or NX4, I believe they came with top plates with the bolts already pressed in. But either way, they won't be OE. You'll have to assess whether they even need replacing. But if you want your size, you can tell pretty quickly by removing one of the nuts and putting a ruler to the exposed bolt. Measure the bolt diameter and measure the thread pitch (threads/inch for US Imp, thread gap for mm). The bolt length is about 1.25" plus whatever the exposed bolt length is with nut off. This accounts for your 1" spacer and 2 layers of ~1/8" steel for the strut top plate and unibody.

Well, thought I'd see if I can make them work today. Started threading some SS rod, but it's just not practical labor-wise. Gonna get some threaded rod delivered and give it one more try, then decide if this is still feasible.

Yeah, it just unbolts from the unibody. It probably needs some maintenance like Rebelord did. I've gotten dirt up there before on mind and my Frontier; jams it up a little. I've found it helpful to give some left-right turns to loosen it, with the occasional tire-kick and negative vocal encouragement.

Coffee/Friday. The imaginary wheel hub is on the left for all the images, so the perspective is up to you (looking at vehicle front = driver's side; looking at vehicle rear = passenger side). I'd suggest looking at the line that meets the right side of the blue Backspace/BS arrow...that's where the rim meets the wheel hub. Those 4.5" BS will move the wheel center 0.75" inward on each side over 3.75" BS.

I'm close to scrapping this particular approach. After talking with MCP, they can't ensure that I'll get replacement 180°s like the one I received, and I'm not willing to chance it. If the replacements are anything like what I received, they'll fail. The springs on the 90°s are just too tough to compress (and unnecessarily so), and MCP won't sell the springs that came on the 180°s separately. This was what two of my QILs were doing: If I gently tugged the ball joint stud out, it would seize in the housing and prevent motion without popping it back in. It didn't take much effort, and these came fully greased. If I were to install these, they would just constantly wedge and pop before eventual failure. You can see the spring differences below. The "perfect" joint is on the right; takes minimal effort pull the collar. The middle spring is better than the 90° and would also be acceptable. I'm sure I won't remove the links often, but I imagine that every time I do, it'll be a hassle assuming I don't end up cutting my hand trying. I've been looking for a suitable spring replacement in hopes of keeping the joints, but nothing has been close on size...and anything I've found costs 2x-4x what I paid for the joint itself. I'll still end up taking a small hit after returning these, unfortunately. Chalk up to R&D. I may try the McMaster-Carr joints, but they are more expensive and for all I know, they may just be MCW joints, too.

Finally home from my work travel and getting a good look at these. I'm seeing some of your concerns with these as well. The 90° joints are a bit tough to open as you noted. Too tough, actually. Otherwise, I think they're quality parts, and I'm not concerned about noise with these. The 180° joints...well, there's good and bad, I guess. The springs on these are better; big improvement over the 90° joints. Of the 4 I ordered, I can wiggle the ball joint out of one without even pulling the collar down. Not good, obviously. Two others appear fine, but with a small amount of pull, they bind and lose the ability to swivel. Also not good, especially since they all came greased. I can see these seizing and failing. Once the collar is pulled down, the joint needs to be at about a 30° angle to remove, which is a bit excessive, just makes it tougher to install/remove. The worst part is the nearly 1/8" of up/down play on the ball in the socket...that will be a major source of noise and failure. Now, the 4th one I got is quite different from the others...in fact, it's perfect. At first, I was concerned it may just be the wrong part, but it's definitely the same size and dimensions. The spring requires much less effort (almost effortless). The up/down play in the ball socket is minimal...I need a dial indicator to tell. It doesn't bind at all when pulled. It has a few more degrees of swivel (not that this is necessary), but it also needs less angle (~15°) to disconnect...and with a tiny amount of filing, it could be 0°, which makes removal and installation that much easier. So, I'll be giving these guys a call on Tuesday to get some things sorted out. I don't think they do returns, but I consider the other 3 defective...I can't/won't use them. If they can get me 3 more like that 4th one, and also provide/sell me springs like the one, that would make these a totally viable solution. However, the springs aren't easily replaced...I'll probably need to destroy the springs to remove them, but new springs I would be able to get them on relatively easily. I also picked up a plated steel rod and 1/2-20 die. I'm going to try making a finished rod or two this weekend.