hawairish

That's funny, though the stripes on the purple, green, white, and grey wires are just for polarity of the speakers. The speakers will still work fine if those are swapped, but it's not optimal. In the OP's case, if the Pioneer harness does in fact fit the SSL radio, it puts 12V into the speaker outputs on the radio...an easy not-good. The reason his USB lights up briefly and the pop is probably because the power socket and radio are on the same circuit and the radio is "absorbing" (for lack of a better term) the short through the radio audio output circuitry.

That sounds like a weird setup. I'm not sure I've seen a radio (I've installed maybe 2 dozen of them over the past 15 years) that will even turn on without power to both yellow and red leads, though if anything, the red would have to be connected and you'd just lose your memory settings each time the radio turned off. But not sure that would stop it from turning on automatically. But if what I'm seeing on the harnesses is correct as far as colors go for the OP, the wires are crossed. But he shouldn't be having any problems if he puts the original radio back in, unless I'm missing some puzzle piece (like an amp in the mix).

Cool, that helps significantly. So, yes, it appears that the DEH245 and SDC26B harnesses are very similar (pics below). I can understand why you might think they'd be compatible. It seems clear to me the popping noise...the power and speaker leads are in different pin positions. Hopefully there's not additional damage to new radio. There should be no problems with the old radio, unless you've damaged the plug in some way and created a short (note that the plug has both square and semi-round "tubes" around each wire...this to prevent mismatching harnesses). But seems like it was a perfect fit? Anyway, if the harness does indeed fit, the easiest fix is to re-arrange the wires on the truck's harness to match what the new radio expects. They are color coded. Looks like you'd need to remove all the pins. It's pretty simple...you can usually do it with a push-pin or needle and a little patience. There's a little barb on the metal piece that's crimped on the wire and inserted into the harness. You use the push-pin to depress the barb and then you can slide the wire out and re-arrange them. Otherwise, you'll need to cut off the old harness on the truck and can then match up the colors to the new harness. If you follow that Pioneer harness back, is it spliced into other wires or do you still have another harness or two? DEH245: SDC26B:

I'd stop plugging things in until you've tracked the problem. Otherwise you'll worsen things, break something else, or start a fire because of an electrical short. Though, if you can repeat the noise with both radios, I'm less inclined to think it's a fuse. It'd help a lot to know what stereo you've got, let alone some pictures for reference of the harnesses, wiring, and radio. Maybe even more details about the truck. I don't think we're getting the full picture. Has the factory wiring been altered? Do you have any other stereo equipment? Any other electrical "mods"? Factory or aftermarket? Is the original radio OE (doubtful)? What prompted the radio change? Was it working before? What position is the ignition switch in when you're testing?

Unless your "new" radio is from another Nissan before say, 2004, then assuming the plastic plug was probably a really bad assumption. What radio did you get? I'm guessing that what you heard through the speakers was some noise (i.e., not music), and that the cigarette lighter USB charger lit up only briefly? Again, need more details here. If plugging the stock radio back in produces nothing, it's almost certainly a fuse. Try checking any fuse labelled interior, radio...I don't have a 92, so I can only guess at this point what fuses exist, and where they are. Wiring adapters are cheap harnesses that allow you to connect aftermarket radios to the OE wiring harnesses (i.e., the part that plugs into the back of your stock radio) without having to cut/splice anything on the truck. You connect the radio's wiring harness to the wiring adapter, then you plug the wiring adapter to the factory harness. It's all color coded. It would've saved you a ton of headache probably. If you have a voltmeter, and know how to use it, then a good description shouldn't be necessary...but, basically, set your volt meter to a DC rating to the lowest setting above 12V. Put the red probe on the truck's wire that you suspect should be giving you 12V under a specific condition (i.e., ignition OFF vs ignition ACC/ON). Put the black probe on some exposed (unpainted) metal on the truck. The voltmeter should read around 12V-14V.

Some radios have a fuse on the back of them, might want to check there. What else can you tell us about what might have happen? Are you using wiring adapters? Do you have a voltmeter handy to test power leads?

Best bet is to use a Factory Service Manual...they're all posted at NICO...check this link. Then, you can just reference the section and page number if you can't get pics posted (do check out the New Members forum for more info.) But, the link you're most likely talking about is the shift linkage on the transfer case, located behind cross member the transmission is mounted to, between the transfer case and front driveshaft u-joint. It connects the 4wd shifter to the t-case. I'm assuming you've got a 4wd. Crawling under my truck, it appears to fit your description. My link is not wobbly at all FWIW.

Well, let's table the money discussion for a moment. I have some other questions for you just to be sure we're on the same page, because my kit won't be like KrF in the sense that it doesn't include any means of lifting (like strut spacers). What's your current lift setup?

Appears so. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1963_Elephant_Mountain_B-52_crash

Gotcha. I like the ladder as well...I especially love the Gobi racks. I was planning to get one for the Jeep a few years ago, and it included the ladder. I'd expect the X hatch to be a few inches longer. Though honestly, those tire steps seem far more practical and economical, and most of the ones I've seen collapse flat-ish. I think there's more need to the sides of the roof rack than there is the rear.

You'd think with the OP's city name of Oil City, they'd cherish a good oil leak. But it would be odd to fail an inspection because of it. In AZ, you fail automatically if the CEL is lit.

Funny...I just pulled my 2.5" SFD spacers out the other night to put in the 3" spacers I had been working on. So, I have a 2nd-hand set available. (And technically, I have yet another set of 2.5" spacers sitting around, but they lack motor mounts.) Bigredangry: I've been working on a 3" kit. It's now installed on the truck...just dropped it off for an alignment today to confirm that everything is kosher. I'll post up more details on a new thread probably later today.

Any concerns about losing access to your pop-open window, CDN? The X glass is fixed in place.

Solid, man!

Well, there's that too. But yes, that would've made a good difference in my diagnosis, but I had keyed off the "opposite direction" part and presumed no LSD, since this observation would be pretty easy to make (vs. assuming it was included in a package, of course). So, seeing as you do in fact have the LSD, turning the steering wheel (and thus making a turn) would cause the outer tire to turn faster and the lack of an additive would induce noise. You wouldn't hear it at higher speeds because you're less likely to be turning. It's all coming together now! You might've been better off replacing all the fluid with gear oil for LSDs (it includes the additive), just to be sure it got a thorough flush. But glad you got it sorted...before the wifey gave a beatdown, of course.

Hope I'm following your diagnoses correctly. Taking another stab... I think it might be a u-joint, pinion flange, or something else related to the rotation of the rear driveshaft. I'm assuming your tests are with the transmission in neutral, otherwise you wouldn't be able to spin one tire off the ground while the other was stationary. Am I putting your diagnoses together correctly? One tire off the ground rotating, either direction, other tire stationary: driveshaft rotates = noise Both tires off the ground rotating at same speed, same direction: driveshaft rotates = noise Both tires off the ground rotating at different speeds, same direction: driveshaft rotates a little = noise Both tires off the ground rotating at same speed, opposite directions: driveshaft doesn't rotate = no noise If so, I would disconnect the driveshaft from the rear diff and retry the tests. If the noise subsides, check the u-joints on the driveshaft. You should be able to move them by hand in multiple directions. Any play or jerky spots may be the culprit. May need to grease or replace. If the noise persists with the driveshaft disconnected, check the pinion flange on the diff...it's the brassy-looking cover behind the driveshaft flange that rotates when the pinion rotates. Sometimes if it's not seated correctly, it rubs against the diff housing. Just takes a mallet and something to gently persuade the flange to adjust a little (piece of wood, punch/drift, pry bar, bolt, etc.) If that's not it, hopefully it's not the pinion bearing. Couple other notes: If your tires spin in opposite directions when both off the ground, you don't have the LSD. Suppose I wouldn't rule out the brakes being engaged. You can rotate the adjuster for the shoes if you suspect that. Might also check the handbrake to make sure it's fully disengaged (not just the handle, but the cable tension). Is it easy or difficult to remove the brake drums?

jjonez: side profile of 31" (LT245/75-16): This is with 2" spacers and OME springs (1"/1.5") front and rear. Stock 16x7 wheels with .25" wheel spacers. CDN: Gorilla has a line of hub centric rings (available through Summit, Jegs, etc.), but you can also try justforwheels.com. IIRC our center bore is 100mm. I can confirm that this week. I'd think that if you went with the bolt-on type, your tires would stick out too far...you'd have to go with at least 1.25" to clear your longer studs if you used rear OE studs up front like I did.

I had a similar issue on another vehicle...ended up being a loose belt. Wasn't squealing on the pulley as I might've expected, but occasionally stopped turning the PS pump which caused the groans.

Much better! Glad it's all sorted!

If you extend your bumpstops, then lengthening the arms to re-center the axle shouldn't be a problem (i.e., it can't "get there"). But you should extend them when you put larger tires or spacers on anyway. My rules of thumb have been to lengthen the bumpstop 1" for every 2" of tire size increase, or 1" for every 1" of spacer lift. This generally ensures there won't be rubbing at the top of the wheel well, which (with longer control arms) would also prevent the tire from swinging too far back (er, up?) to hit the rear of the wheel well. You may also need to be mindful of the extendable length of the driveshaft if going with longer control arms...but nothing a small driveshaft spacer can't resolve if the driveshaft is too short. I used 2" body lift spacers (Performance Accessories BB02), a longer bolt (8mm x 1.25 x 70mm), and a nylock nut (to secure the bolt to OE bumpstop, center the spacer, and so I could just twist them on by hand) when I added spacers:

You wanting to use different (shorter) hardware? Otherwise, I'd just remove the nuts, flip the spacer, and call it a day at this point.

If you say so. Shouldn't be any different than installing struts on a stock truck. You could also install the strut spacers to the truck first, then install the struts. The struts aren't any longer with HD springs than they are with stock springs. But really...we're all just anxious to see this through!

Yeah, might not help too much on the stance. What do you need the spring compressors for? Are you changing out the strut mount bolts?

Actually, the 80° is about right. Other posts put it closer to 8.5°, I measured about 9°. The angle is based off the angles of the strut mouth surfaces on unibody, and they actually slope about 11° towards the center of the vehicle; this is the result from a 4° decline from front-to-rear and 9° left-to-right...this latter number being the one that corrects camber. Here's how you should think about this image from the other thread (http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31584-my-pathy-project-lifting/) This: Is really this, when installed: And the coils wouldn't affect this, btw. This is entirely related to the strut spacer, whether it's on wrong, or made wrong.

Sounds like the mounting surfaces are oriented correctly, but are they also parallel? If the spacers are made or installed wrong, there's no amount of camber bolts that will fix it. You could just put your 2" spacers back on. You've still got your OME springs on, right? At least until you figure out if you want more lift in the rear. Sucks to have to go this route and keep re-doing things, but sounds like the better route to save yourself from the headache for now.