hawairish

Yeah, the panhard angle matters. It should be flat because a larger angle will essentially triangulate things in a bad way. A small angle isn't terrible, but not efficient either. The strange thing on mine is that my axle appears to sit perfectly centered, whereas I expect it to be more on the driver's side. Must be the SuperPro bushings. My "tool" to bleed brakes is a small box wrench, another person's foot, a short length of clear vinyl tubing, a plastic water bottle, and two cable ties. The tubing, bottle, and cable ties make a catch bottle: drill a hole in the cap, put some tube through the hole, cable tie the tube on each side of the cap to keep the tube from coming out, then twist the cap on the bottle. The vinyl tube ID should be small enough to fit snugly on the bleeder valve's head. Other tools to complete the job: flat screwdriver, channel pliers, quick clamps, a mini-sledge hammer. Not what you were expecting, eh? The latter two are optional, but can come in handy. The wheel cylinder is a dual-headed piston assembly that pushes the tops of the shoes apart and towards the drum wall to apply braking force. The brake line and bleeder valve attach to it. If loosening either causes any damage or snaps off, it'll be the wheel cylinder that needs to be replaced. It just bolts to the backing plate. Changing drums—or brakes for that matter—is one of those things where if you see it once, and you're a pro (sort of). If you're really interested, I'll write something up and toss it in the How-To, assuming there isn't one already there. The toughest part of the job for me is getting my wife to tell me when the pedal feels firm and when it hits the floor when we're bleeding things.

Just checked an alternator belt, Dayco 5060463...shows as fitting a 04 Pathy and 350Z. Do it!

Thought so, but why look into the Maxima or Altima belt? The 350Z ones should just drop in. eBay has a 180A for $170 and a 240A for $276, shipped.

Yeah, I'm not sure how well the label on the meter will hold up in the heat tucked away in a glovebox. Surely the heat can't be good for it. Tappplastics.com. I've use them for a couple years for various computer projects and materials. They do custom cuts to precise sizes, or you can buy standard sizes/pieces. All sorts of neat materials. I've also found that if you decide you want a specific size cut (especially small sizes), that you can get multiple pieces for the same price as 1 piece. So I just have them make as many as I can get for that price. Maybe if I need a custom size, I'll pick up extras and send a drilled-out one your way since it sounds like we'll use the same components. The ABS is particularly nice because it can be tapped easily, and resists cracking (especially where drilled), and can be heat molded. http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/abs_sheets/524. I have some leftover sheets for a project I did on my Jeep...mounted a small power inverter, small OE sub amp, and fused power block to a sheet mounted to the rails of the passenger seat...having it move with the seat saved it from being stepped on by people climbing into the back if I had mounted it to the floor. But because it's plastic, also makes for a great electrical insulator. They also sell HDPE sheets (the stuff Fleurys uses for spacers), and various acrylic sheets. I bumped this project to my "on deck" circle, once I'm done with this tire carrier retrofit. Thinking I might be drilling some mounting holes for it tomorrow... Thinking this project might come alive in a month or two.

Wait...don't you have the VQ?

Stock alternator is 110A. Several sites (including Rock Auto), say OE alternator fits any VQ35 engine: 350Z, G35, FX35, M35. The original alternator p/n 23100-AM610 was superseded to 23100-AM61A...but if you eBay search the old number, it returns results for multiple vehicles. That said, there are 220A-350A+ for the 350Z...and thus, the R50. (And as an extra cross-ref, as I'm prone to do, the R50 pulley p/n is 23150-AG010...which if you Google, returns results for the above vehicles.). I'd say you have direct fit options that don't require a belt change.

I don't doubt they corrode, and I've lived in salt states for a few years (MN, IL) to know the impact. But, for something that took many years to occur on aluminum, I don't see how steelies would fair any better. Powder coating will succumb to the same fate of clear coat, but the steel will rust a helluva lot faster. I know because I had steelies on my Frontier; they chipped, and immediately rusted in those spots...even here in the high desert. But anyway, I didn't want my takeaway from my post to be about aluminum vs. steel vs. corrosion. Hope you find the info useful.

Welcome to the forum! I'll be the bad guy before the admins, moderators, and just about everyone else chimes to say you're off to a really bad start: Don't cross post...people don't want to see the same message in multiple locations. Your first 3 posts were the same and in two different locations. Search...it's very clear you haven't done any homework... See pinned articles...these are pinned for a reason: because a lot of people ask about them. There are some that specifically address lifts, components, where to buy them, how to install them, and pros/cons. Let me Google that for you Seven of the first 10 results for a ridiculously simple Google search for "Nissan Pathfinder lift" returns two popular sources for Pathfinder accessories (including lifts); two eBay results for lift spacers sold by guys on this forum; a YouTube video of a 6" lifted Pathfinder (also from a guy who used to be on this forum) running something called a SubFrame Drop (SFD) lift; and a Suspensions Lift 101 thread at the NiCO Club forum specifically for Pathfinders and QX4s. The other three links have generic parts that probably don't fit anything Pathfinder. Then, within results 11-15, two are for another popular source for Nissan trucks/SUVs (the owner frequents this forum), and the 15th result is the vendor who produces the aforementioned SFD, which is a 4" lift kit. Don't let me spoil things, though. You'll find a TON of really good information and people on this forum compared to the others out there. But you'll get much better answers if you have a specific question about something.

Meh, rear brakes are a piece of cake! If the bleeders are rusted out, might as well replace the wheel cylinders while you're at it...$10/ea US on Rock Auto. Easy to change when doing the pads, and it's the perfect time to do it. I could even make you a how-to video (er, write up). (Donor axle in garage with used genuine Nissan Akebono cylinders, if you want 'em!). Did you get the panhard drop bracket? If not, that might be why. Without it, your the right side of your axle can't articulate, and the truck will resist body roll. I realized my truck is having that problem when I went swap my rear spacers over the weekend. At one point, I could put the jack on the axle under the left spring, and the axle would basically raise evenly. I had to disconnect the panhard bar to remove the right spring, then had to use a ratchet strap to reconnect it. I ordered one up the other night...but looks like it might be a couple weeks before I get it.

Actually, most Nissan truck/SUV wheels before 2005 will fit to some degree. 05+ will not fit because they are 6x4.5. You could get adapters, but the center bore would be too small if you have hubs (4wd) Titan/Armada wheels have the right bolt pattern, but the center bore is too small for 4wd Pathfinders. For 2wd, you can usually groove a lip on the wheel mounting side to clear the ring on the hub (100mm). Not sure if there's enough metal to make them fit 4wd, but I don't see how there couldn't be. Some Xterra/Frontier wheels are 15". Older R50s came with 15", but the facelift ones came with 16" and 17". The 15" should fit as long as the calipers didn't change (don't think so). The backspacing and offset varies.

Nah, we get everything shipped for free. Not to take away from getting steelies, but I'm curious why you're having seal leaks in the first place. A bad seal is a product of bent/damaged wheels, a bad bead on the tire, or even bad bead sealer. A slow leak is a tire issue 99% of the time. And I would imagine the aluminum alloy used to be rather resistant to road salts. Just food for thought. Your understanding about +/- offset and backspacing is on the right track. Except a smaller backspacing on the same width rim moves the tire out away from the wheel hub. Backspacing is relative to the wheel width; offset is resultant of both. The rim width, offset, and backspacing are all correlated; you can basically determine any one if you have the other two. Offset is probably the one I'd think about less when making a decision on which to get. You can see that backspacing is the distance from the mounting surface of the wheel to the edge of the wheel. Offset is the distance from the mounting surface of the wheel to the theoretical center of the wheel; + offsets are outside of the center, - offsets are inside. Specified wheel widths are generally 1" wider physically, so for 4" of backspacing: a 6" wheel (physically 7") has +.5" offset (or 12.7mm or 13mm) a 7" wheel (physically 8") has 0 offset an 8" wheel (physically 9") has -.5" offset If you are going from a 7" wide wheel to an 8" wide, and keep the same offset, your backspacing will increase and come closer your strut. Since you need the wheel to go away from your strut (or stay the same distance away), you need to decrease backspacing. If you want to get an idea of where your stocks are, just measure them like shown in the pics. Then, eyeball down the side of your truck and think about how much farther out you'd like to have the tire, then go from there. This is a personal preference. Also, if you plan to go beyond the 254/75/16, consider a 16x8. Most taller tires I've seen have an approved rim width of >7.5. I don't think many tire shops will flinch when mounting to a 16x7, but who knows what "approved" will really mean if something fails.

It installs in his hitch and swings to the side, but has a pass-through receiver currently occupied by one of these:

Let me tell you about the 2x4 I used to for holding R200 diffs for torquing on a vice, keeping an axle stationary so I could test LSDs break-away torques, as a torque extension on said axle, and most recently to un-bend a bracket for a tire carrier mount... But not to get too far off topic...

Yep, seen it. It just talked about battery and mounting options, which I have no concerns over. I plan to buy a pair of plastic battery trays in the sizes I need, rivet them side-by-side, and fasten to the chassis. Ones like this have integrated straps...no point in re-inventing the wheel. Seen the Theexbrit's setup, too...same as 96Pathfinder4x4. Both use the T-Max and have a RigRunner for accessories.

I prefer a physical switch, too. There are a couple other little nuances about the T-Max that have me hung up...one, it doesn't appear that there's any integrated way to mount it (I'm not using Velcro, and it's not going to get tucked away somewhere), and two, if the Link button should fail for any reason (integrated circuit, melted tactical button), I'd have to cut wires to bypass it (which I don't want to do). I'm a big stickler for clean installs. The Blue Sea modules are IP66 and IP67 rated, meaning they're both dust proof (the first "6") and resist either powerful jets of water (the second "6") or full immersion (the "7") for a minimum period of time. And of course the superior corrosion. If it can withstand of the neck-jarring impacts of a boat going through crests at speed, I have no doubt it'll withstand vibrations from on/off-road. Even then, it would be pretty easy to put those units on rubber feet, but probably not necessary. I'd mount them under the hood, probably somewhere near the passenger strut tower or firewall. I tend to use ABS plastic sheets (1/4") for mounting things...rigid, insulating, easy to work with. I think it'd be pretty easy to make a one-piece module that holds a switch, ACR, and pair of breakers.

I think I see what you're saying...since the smaller battery would only be for starting, it probably doesn't need to be on the alternator-side of the isolator or ACR. But, the more I think about it, though the less I think it really matters as long as: 1. The batteries charge together 2. The batteries discharge separately 3. Whatever electronics to be used for prolonged periods between starts are connected to the deep(er) cycle battery. I probably will plan for a setup with a deep cycle when the current battery croaks. This power project will eventually support an inverter, air compressor, water pump (for an onboard water supply), and maybe even a fridge. But I also want the radio and cabin lights on that circuit, and redundancy for starting. I think that Blue Sea kit is the "essential" items. ...but if I'm not mistaken, all that's really essential is an isolator, which is just a big relay: + from battery 1 to one side, + from battery 2 to the other side, and a latching signal across two other terminals (12V when the ignition is ON to ground). A selector switch is useful for selecting which battery(ies) to use for a function (like starting), or combing the two for jump starting. The T-Max is useful if you want meter readings, and both the T-Max and ACRs manage the charge (when both batteries are charged, it opens the circuit to prevent over-charging, then senses when the secondary battery has discharged enough and closes the circuit...kind of like a trickle charger). Is that it in a nutshell?

I'm not currently running a deep cycle, but I think it's on its last leg anyway. The heat and age has been taking its toll and if it sits for a couple days, it takes a little extra to turn over. I was thinking something small for the starting system, maybe a Group 25 size, and then a basic battery. I don't currently have anything that warrants an Optima, but eventually I will.

Yep, I read Theexbrit's, 96Pathfinder4x4's, KiwiPete's, and some info from XPLORx4 and his components (not sure about his setup) and a few other outside of here including one particular gem on ExPo before posting. I've seen numerous diagrams, and have read up on several configs, including some provided by Blue Sea and other marine applications. But none really answer my questions, just explain the typical setup of just adding a battery, and adding new stuff to that battery. The one question in particular interest is divorcing the starting system from the other electronics (how easy, and if worthwhile). The few diagrams I've seen just show the starter/alternator on battery 1, and everything else on battery 2...but it's not clear to me how everything is just simply separated like that.

Yep, I was looking at the Blue Sea stuff specifically. Just seems like a really good, well-documented product line. I got a chuckle out of the T-Max instruction where it shows a pic of the "Batter" monitor (the pic looks a little lumpy, too). I didn't see this kit earlier when searching, but it seems to be what I'd go with. The included switch (5511e) is the one I want because I couldn't think of a scenario when I'd need a 2-only position. Price seems right, too: http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-120A-Add-A-Battery/dp/B000RZNP5K. I was thinking about the lack of a meter, too. It'd be nice to see the status, but I wouldn't think putting some inline voltmeters would be any different than what the T-Max can display, and when (running, off). I've got a voltmeter under my radio now, and that seems to be sufficient enough for me`to determine charge and voltage. A second one on the other system would probably be fine (and inexpensive). However, one feature I did like about the T-Max, is that its Link mode is on a timer. Prevents accidentally leaving the system in a linked mode for an extended period and draining both batteries. But since I'd only be using the manual switch for specific reason (jumping the battery) and it'd be installed under the hood, seems like having the hood open would be a good reminder. Ironman also has a kit, but seems pretty pricey ($300 through a Toyota parts dealer in TX is all I've found for a source): http://www.ironman4x4.com/products/dual-battery-systems/dual-battery-kit-140-amp-includes-monitor

Yep, you'd be surprised. The LCA bushings on my Frontier had a serrated edge that purposely gripped the surrounded metal. The reason for torquing rubber bushings on the ground with normal vehicle weight is because it sets the bushing to its operating load range. Otherwise it gets preloaded. Not needed for poly because they are greased up enough to allow rotation.

Yeah, I would've liked to stick with the 300 ft-lbs as well...but I had mental conniption since I had bought 12 discs/plates to rebuild two LSDs, and 6 were adding 200 ft-lbs to one LSD, while the other 6 (at the exact same thicknesses) were adding only about 40 ft-lbs to the other. Financially, I just couldn't accept that. I probably could've gotten the same numbers by putting warn discs back in. What I really needed was another 4x 1.6mm pieces, but I had settled on 4x 1.5mm pieces because of national availability. Of course, should I plan to revisit this, I means that I should be able to swap in another 1.6mm piece and get back up to 300...hmmm. Agreed on the mics over calipers. The mm resolution was in hundredths which is probably fine for this (cheapo HF digital calipers...but they've served me well), but the real problem is that the discs have just a slightly smaller diameter than the plates, so the plates don't see constant wear at the edges, and the calipers pick that up a little. The FSM does indicate to use mics on specific points, in particular the centers vs. inner/outer tabs, to measure wear. But the pieces aren't a perfect uniform thickness anyway (even brand new), so I measured at about 4-6 points to determine what I could as a min, max, and average. Kind of an arbitrary process altogether...I started pairing things up to make the stack as perfect as possible, but it really became a lost cause once it was in the axle and being tested. I'd also like to think that the LSD will improve over time, for some time anyway. The raised areas of the new discs appeared to more rounded...as these flatten out (before they were too thin/smooth), perhaps the friction area increases a little. I'll give it a few more days and pull a tire off to retest.

Ideally I'd like to add a small battery (primary) for starting, and use the existing battery (secondary) for all other electronics. From what I can tell from other installs, the main battery is for normal OE duties (starting and accessories), and the 2nd for other other accessories (lights, winches, fridges, RigRunner, etc.) I plan to add a fused power distribution panel at the rear of the vehicle for camp-related items. But if the vehicle is off, I might want cabin or exterior lighting and the radio on...wouldn't I want those on the 2nd battery, too? My positive terminal has a main lead and two smaller leads. I haven't followed the wiring yet, but I'm presuming that the main wire goes to the alternator and starter, one smaller goes to the fuse/relay panel under the hood, and the other smaller goes to the interior fuse panel. Is it as simple as putting the larger on the primary battery, and one or both smaller on the secondary battery? If this is the case, I'd then probably want the heavier duty OE items like A/C and headlights on the primary battery, and all the all the interior electronics and future stuff on the secondary? I also like the idea of using a marine battery switch for linking the battery, should I need to jump the battery. I know this is what the T-Max does with the Link button, but for some reason I think I'd prefer a hard switch in the engine compartment and one less set of wires to run into the cabin. Any thoughts here?

It's a sad reality. And I can't even find anything that I need locally these days; I have to buy everything online. But I'm also somewhere in between...I usually buy something and use it for some unintended purpose. I'm no fabricator, but I bleed MacGyver.

For safe measure, I'd take a torque wrench to every bolt down on the struts, ball joints, and LCAs points. But I have to side with the shop a little on this one. Let's give them the benefit of the doubt for a moment that they were installed correctly...they replaced the rotors under warranty, which is great, but I'd like to think that they would've looked into the issue a little further instead. They'd know pretty quickly if there was a problem after 2K miles...and I'd like to think they'd do it to cover their arses. They probably saw nothing, but replaced them for customer satisfaction. If they can't find a problem twice, I don't blame them for not wanting to do it a third time. The odds of getting two bad sets of rotors and/or faulty installation? I think your problem is elsewhere, unforunately. Braking vibrations can be felt with even new brakes. Worn suspension bushings, unbalanced tires, tire toe-in/out (misaligned or bent TREs), loose steering rack, bad brake bias, air in the brakes, ABS faults...all potential contributors. I even clean off the magnetic ABS sensor tips on each hub just to make sure the signal is as clean as can be. Have you tried rotating the tires to see if the vibration subsides?

Maybe the subframe spacers are upside down? Kidding...those don't matter! Is the crossmember under the engine (between the front mounts of the LCAs) level too? You may also try measuring under the R200A flanges to see if the axle sits level, though this wouldn't affect the angle of the LCA, only the CV).