hawairish

No sweat, man. I think you'll be very pleased with that setup, too. Two more thoughts: You may still want to measure break-away and clutch pieces on the donor WD21...at minimum to inspect for wear. If you can have the downtime, you can use the better pieces from both the donor and current LSDs to freshen up the LSD. Again, just need to know the starting thicknesses of each piece. The FSM also provides measurements/specs for dimensions inside the carrier halves, so using the halves with less inner dimensions would provide more clamping pressure...just don't get the bearing races mixed up. I presume that the 33-spline side gears will fit the 31-spline carrier because they use the same LSD pieces. This is entirely dependent on the lip at the ends of the side gear. You would also need to swap over the spider gears and 4-pinion cross shaft (the side gear cuts are completely different). As an after-thought, you for sure can just move the LSD clutch packs to the 33-spline carrier...they are the same part numbers. Doing it this way, you won't have to remove any ring gears, side gears, spider gears, etc...just undo the 8 smaller bolts that clamp the two carrier halves together. (Sorry for the mixed info...I realize now how exhausted I was when typing that all up...I had just completed a 40+ hour marathon of R50 overhaul over 2.5 days...brutal!)

Hahaha, I think he was complimenting your lady friend (and spoiler). Some good pics up there! Here's a couple from the weekend overhaul of my buddy's (duke90) 02 SE (the white one)... Before... Hard to tell, but it (expectedly) sat a bit lower than mine. He has OME springs all around, HDs up front, no other lift. After... Was hoping to get a lot more pics, but ran short on time. I'll get him to post more up. We now both sit about exactly the same, front and rear. Added to his 3" of strut spacers, 3" SFD, 2" rear spring spacers, and Air Lift 1000 bags, and negated it with an ARB bumper, Warn M8000 winch, super sliders, and R50 tire carrier. Also swapped in a Lokka, 4.636 gears, and re-packed LSD, and replaced a really bad motor mount (fortunately discovered during the SFD install). Outside of the winch and bumper, we have pretty much the exact same trucks now...twins!

Honestly, I've not heard any noises that I can associate with the SFD spacers. I developed a slight creak/pop at full turn after upping to 3" strut spacers, but I believe I know why...the bolt-hole bore on my spacers is too tight for the bolts (1/2" drill for 1/2" bolt, previously 1/2" drill for 12mm bolt). The fit was very snug (I had to mallet the spacers onto the strut mounts), but had the purpose of gripping the bolts while I tightened them to the strut tower. I think it's too snug and I get the creak under heavy twist. We installed the 3" SFD on my buddy's truck over the weekend, and this time I bored out the strut spacer holes just a tad over 1/2", and we didn't have any noises whatsoever. The notable difference between mine and KrF's is that my front spacers butt up against the sides of the subframe because they're 2.5" wide instead of 2" wide. Very tight fit. Because of the radius edge on the 2" tube that KrF uses, there's only about 1.5" wide of flat mating surface, but I have a full inch more, too. Both of those differences will greatly reduce any shift that might occur. We also torqued what we could to 90-100 ft-lbs. For what we could put a torque wrench on (the upper/OE hardware), we made sure it was tighter than what we could feel by torquing the lower hardware.

As part of the retrofit for the R50 carriers on my and a buddy's trucks, I replaced the OE hinge pins with a 5/8" bolt and used 1/8" nylon washers between the hinge brackets and carrier frame. This a produced a very good adjustable compression to control the swing...and super silent. OE pin is a 16mm shoulder-style pin with a 14mm end IIRC, so I just bored out the lower holes to get the bolt through. I like the idea of the poly bushing, but I does it allow for excess motion? What sort of tension adjustment does the WD21 carrier have?

Well, keep us posted then. I can understand a 21mm socket not fitting, but the fact that it comes in contact with the hole in one spot vs. simply not fitting...clear indicator to me that something isn't centered. But, as long as the nuts appear fully seated (as best as you can see, of course) and the spacer looks centered on the wheel hub centers, then that's a good sign.

Funny you had to even use the BFH...must've been a lot of rust swelling?? Maybe the next mod is some media blasting and POR? So for the spacers, I have a concern...are you saying that you can use the open-ended lugnuts because they take a 19mm socket, which is a smaller diameter socket than a 21mm? That just means that the socket won't interfere with the holes, but there's no way the lug nuts are seating properly in the hole at all faces if they weren't doing that before. And unless all 6 nuts are exactly at the same depth, then the spacer for sure won't be centered. Did you ever get ahold of Steven?

Two weeks would be better...but that was my exact concern. For a lot of people, especially for non-essential vehicle parts, this is very much an impulse buy. I'm glad to see so much interest though. I know they keep some sort of decent inventory. We bought two of the R50 kits on the same day and they arrived in about 4 days from AUS, no joke. I can't get stuff from eBay in our own country to arrive within 4 days. But I think if everyone knows up-front what the terms of this sale is, it'll be far more successful for us and them. I'd love to see this as some sort of eye-opener for them (and other manufacturers). Thanks for staying on top of this!

Full float diff? Not sure what you mean. The axle (shafts) can be a floater, but not the diff. How's the width on the axle housing, though? It'd have to be narrow enough to allow for some sort of flange-to-CV adapter. Otherwise you're talking about needing entirely different wheel hubs...which means different spindles...which means entirely different suspension. I hear whispers chants of "SAS, SAS, SAS"...

Yeah, I'm certain you had to take the BFH approach. I can seen your pic that because of all the rust, that's why you didn't have to cut anything either. Your truck must've known that eventually you'd get the bracket.

Update update update... So as part of a seemingly not-stop weekend overhaul on another member's truck, we installed the 2nd tire carrier on his, and it also turned out just fine. Amazing how much faster it goes finally having help! Didn't do anything different, everything felt very solid. He also put his own weight on it. Small observation on his...he has a 2002 SE that did not have the wiring pigtail for the door switch. Completely missing. I didn't take a look at his gauge cluster for the icon, mainly because it didn't matter. If you're planning/wanting to use the door switch, you just need to pull up the plastic sill piece (with 6 Phillips-looking plastic screws that aren't really screws at all) and look for the large circular grommet a few inches to the right of the striker. If you see a hole...you're missing the harness. If you have a rubber grommet, pull that up and the pigtail should be there. So I guess the real question is why an 04 SE would even have it? Other side note...because of the heavier-duty/replacement hinge pin (bolt), we couldn't install some taillight guards between the carrier hinge brackets. FYI in case anyone has or wants taillight guards that might be for sale very soon...

Yeah, that'd be a lot of work no doubt. Spent the last 3 days under the truck...the X/Fr R200 would need to use the R50 diff cover and have the bracket on the tube cut off, then some sort of cradle is doable. Can't mount to the crossmember because the rack and pinion is where it could otherwise mount without issue. But because the R50 axle mounts to two brackets with bushings, thinking that if you replace those with a custom bracket, the cradle idea isn't too far fetched...a bolt-on option. I may have to revisit this in the near future.

A 7-day discount window? WTH is that about? What happens if not everyone on the list buys within at window? Sounds like these guys have some other agenda. They're going to manufacture a bunch of Nissan Lokka's on a whim to re-stock supply like there's some ridiculously steady demand that they have to be prepared for within a week? BS. I have whatever vehicle they think uses their p/n NIS-FO-182 (but basically an 02 and 04 Pathfinder).

Curious to get your feedback: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40616-krypton-fabs-panhard-drop-bracket/?p=760650

I wouldn't drive it with that 2nd bolt in. Put whatever you can on it, even if a smaller dia. bolt...you need to sandwich it as best as possible. BTW, yours looks relatively bolt-on. My experience installing one this morning was far from it...I was extremely pissed at it. I'm writing up a product review now...maybe you can validate your experience on the write-up when done? Neat canopy! Will the lift gate put some stress on it when opened though?

Haha, too kind! And sorry about the delayed response...just completed a marathon 3-day truck overhaul for another R50 owner. Madness! Ok, here goes (long post, heads-up)... Everything worth knowing (specs, instructions, and parts info) is found in Propeller Shaft and Differential Carrier ("PD") section of the FSM. The most notable things are the specs and parts explosion. Best bet is to print the entire section for your mechanic. The specs are found in the Service Data and Specifications (SDS) section towards the end of the H233B subsection. It looks like this (for a 2004 Pathfinder): Somewhere before this in the PD chapter, you'll find either a full parts explosion for all the parts, or a smaller explosion like this (again for a 2004 Pathfinder): BTW, for a 1997 Pathfinder, the LSD is listed as having 5 friction discs, 6 friction plates, 2 spring plates, and no spacer (per side). It specs at 65-80 ft-lbs. Breaking down the parts: 1. Friction plate: stays stationary to the carrier 2. Friction disc: stays stationary to side gears 3. Spacer: some have a spacer that is equal in thickness to 4 plates/discs. It's just a big 6mm thick ring. 4. Spring: not shown in picture is a ring with a concavity. There are two of them per side (some older models only had one per); when the carrier is assembled, the spring plates will flatten and produce pressure. The friction plates sandwich the discs, and when the torque differs between wheels, the discs twist between the plates to create friction. Before ordering any parts, you should know the assembly order and thickness of each part...this requires disassembly. Note the list of part numbers above. Your LSD will consist of some combination of those parts. Most, if not all (except the spacer) will be 1.5mm thick. To thicken the stack, you simply replace the 1.4mm pieces (if any) or 1.5mm pieces with something thicker. The FSM specifies how thick that stack can be, so take note of your initial and calculated thickness. I found it easier to just find the nominal thickess (i.e., some will be 1.47mm thick, but treat them as 1.5mm thick) and see what parts can be replaced or rearranged. The "optimal" ratio of discs-to-plates is 5:6...this is the arrangement that uses the max number of friction surfaces. It is not necessary to have that setup, since you can supplement it with thickness in some cases. If you need to bring down torque (in my case, where I was hitting way over 300 ft-lbs at one point), you can keep the same stack thickness and reduce the ratio to 4:7. If you have 2:5, then you have the spacers and need to replace each with 3 discs and 1 plate. If you have 2:9, you need to replace 3 plates with 3 discs per side. Neither of these options are cost-effective, and might not be enough to get the desired numbers. Each disc/plate runs about $30-$35/ea from Nissan...it adds up quickly when you factor things per side. LSDs out of a WD21 will be a much better starting point. LSD parts for all H233B trucks/SUVs pre-2005 are the interchangeable. If using a WD21 diff, put your ring gear and side gears on the carrier, and swap it in. Of course, measure spec and see if it needs rebuilding (the FSM shows how to measure torque...may need to fab your own tool for measuring). Dialing in the right amount of torque took me several tries. It really depends on the starting setup. I had to buy several pieces to hit my numbers, but I also started with a weaker LSD. MY1PATH machined down some extra plates/discs as shims. That is another option if you have the means. ... On a parting side note, the vehicle overhaul done over the weekend included installation of a rebuilt 150 ft-lb LSD into another R50...the owner was very pleased with it. Mine also feels great. Any other questions, feel free to ask!

While there's no kit per se, you can buy thicker discs/plates from any Nissan dealership. Though, when I bought some the other month, national supply was getting low..5-7 weeks to get some from Japan, if available. However, the setup in the Pathfinder only uses 40% of the potential friction surfaces because it stacks plates together. If you replace every other plate with a disc, you instantly add friction. Make some pieces thicker, more friction. My adventure here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/40280-was-the-factory-lsds-breakaway-torque-any-good

Now you're talking. You know, I've been looking at the X/Fr version of the R200 for a while now, and I think it could be possible to make that bolt on. I'd have to see the clearance on the crossmember in front of the diff on ours, thinking that it could actually bolt to that. I'd also have to see where the snout on the diff is relative to the rear LCA mounts. A custom 'missing link' would provide bolting locations for the snout. If we could get that R200 into ours, not only would OE 4.9's be an option, but also more aftermarket gears.

They'd probably just count the number of people that use the discount code, though I'd think that mean they wouldn't ship anything until the quota was met.

Axle swap to what?

About 0 options, unfortunately, unless any of those aftermarket gears for R200s are really reverse cut (doubtful). You have the tallest OE gears already (4.636).

Will have to think about it over the weekend then. Have they issued a voucher for the $259? Maybe I could test that at their website to confirm. No local JYs?

True, but I'd think the tail would be too long to tilt down completely (at least with the t-case still on) so he may still need a tranny jack and suitable ground clearance. Even if cutting the radiator and support beams out, I'd think the t-case would also make the tail to heavy to level it with the picker, which might make it tougher to manuever/tilt/lift.

Makes sense on the superseded part. Hopefully it is better. What a deal. To be sure, they will do that price for the R200 version?? I'm thinking I might pick up a pair of them...already got an extra R200 in the garage, and will have another on Sunday. Might be easier to sell them pre-locked...

Sorry, what I was getting at is I wonder if a cross shaft from another R180 that lacks a long flat spot would fit yours, if one exists. The flat spot (being X% less material) is surely making it weaker. The R50's one has a long flat spot, too, which is why I think Lokka provides a replacement. I have the R200 Lokka, and have installed a pair of them. I know with they're different shafts. just thinking of ways to might improve your setup because of what I've read about the newer R180s.

1997 FSM...see SDS sections at end of AT and TF chapters for complete details.