hawairish

As Bushnut mentioned, just removing the strut will cause the camber to go off until the coil re-settles under the weight of the truck. But, if you're certain you got the camber bolts back into their original position (not just putting the bolts where they came from, but also turning them to the specific angle they were at), then a positive camber might mean the strut spacers or the struts are on the wrong side. The strut mount bolt pattern prevents rotating the strut spacer or strut mount plate incorrectly, but doesn't prevent putting them on the wrong side of the truck. If the strut spacer tube (the metal between the mounting flanges) has a slight angle, then they need to be swapped. You can use a small level or plumb line to tell (use an upper and lower bolt as reference points). If they are vertical, then the struts need to be swapped, since the strut mount plates are side-specific. I'd also run this by KRFabs and let them confirm the scenario. It could still very much be just the camber bolts if they changed, and this is very easy to test without removing anything. Just loosen the nuts at the lower strut mount, put a wrench on the bolt head, rotate, and observe. (Rotating the non-camber bolts, if any, won't have any effect.)

Oh, and to clarify KRFabs' logic: you don't need an alignment because their kit is designed to be a perfect linear drop of all subframe components. Nothing changes except the gap between the unibody and subframe (it goes from 0" to 4") (<--that's what she said). The steering rack angle changes, but that has no impact on steering.

You should not need an alignment if you return the strut to the same angle relative to the steering knuckle. This is usually done by marking a line on the camber bolt heads where they meet the strut mount (and obviously returning the same bolts to the same holes when you remove them). Since turning the bolt head is what adjusts camber, you just want to return the original bolt to its original hole at its original position. Of course, this also assumes you didn't need an alignment before installing it, and that you don't add/change anything beyond just installing all the spacers, including new camber bolts (unless you mark them at the same orientation of their 'bellies'...the cam portion of the bolt). To note, I don't run the KrFabs kit either, but will be installing my own kit next week and am familiar with the sort of changes that warrant alignments.

Sorry Yendor, I meant welding on the spacers themselves, not welding them on the truck. Everything will be bolt-on, and without cutting or drilling. Here are the welded spacers, though still a little rough. Just need to clean up the surfaces, drill holes, and paint. The center is a rigid, hollow box formed by the walls of the three tube pieces that comprise each spacer. Same amount of steel as a simple tube, but is much stronger. These are 3/16" thick and probably didn't need welding at all, but the design also allows for side access by tools (which is only necessary for the front subframe hardware anyway) and reduces the amount of rounded tube edges that contact (or more appropriately, don't contact) the unibody or subframe. Tomorrow, I'll pick up enough .120" steel for another 2.5" set and a 1.5" set. The steering link arrives in a couple days, and is the last part I need, then it's all systems go after the gluttony that is Thanksgiving. Though, I just had to order another (3rd) shock for the rear because apparently I loosened something inside the shock (wtf?) while swapping the bushings and it doesn't behave like it's mate now. I'm hoping to get it before T-day, but I can limp if it arrives after.

Obviously not to say it's not possible, but it wouldn't be easy. The strut is the most limiting factor on our trucks. If I were to do anything short of an SAS, it would be to eliminate the MacPherson strut system and build UCAs mounts to use Frontier/Xterra, Titan, or even 4Runner UCAs and coilovers. Then you start opening doors to more off-the-shelf lift options. (I've actually given thought to a bolt-on system that could achieve this.)

Honestly, I wouldn't go that route if you just wanted lift. For that effort, you'd be better of considering an SAS. What the guys mentioned above is the tip of the iceberg. Long travel kits for Frontier and Xterra can run up to $3000...and that's without longer CVs, coilovers, pre-runner fenders, and other things that are required and probably don't even exist for an R50. It would not be remotely cheap, and the gains would be no better than an SFD. If you plan to lift your R50 any appreciable height, an SFD becomes necessary (noting that dropping the subframe is what corrects CV and steering angles, and does not provide any lift in itself).

So, I got the finished spacers back, and they're as solid as expected. Just need to hit them up with paint and slap them on. Even got all the hardware necessary for bolting everything up yesterday, and ordered up the steering link today. For those interested (or not), do you think welding up the subframe spacers is worth it (i.e., would you want that or just simple tubes)? It does cost a little more because of the welding work, but because lighter steel can be used, the material is cheaper to buy and ship. I'm going with welded regardless, but thinking I'd offer a couple options (simple .188, welded .120, welded .188). Also, just wanted to re-iterate that this SFD is just that...it only drops the subframe. I thought about including strut spacers, as angled spacers are not necessary here, but I'd just be the middleman if I did. There are several strut spacers available, and by not including them, I don't have to mark up the costs to cover my shipping costs, and you get to pick-and-choose your setup. For my setup, I'll be adding my .5" to a 1.5" spacers.

Curious to know, too. I see the different parts numbers for the fender depending on if fender flares and the tire carrier were included. Definitely doesn't appear to be an extra, separate bracket of any sort. Still, your approach is probably sufficient. Are your plates bonded to the metal in any way, like JB Weld?

Cool. Well, keep an eye out for my notes on an SFD, or look into KRFab's 4" kit to clear 33s. You could also ditch the side steps and fab up some sliders. ARB bumpers are a pretty penny here, but are they any cheaper around there?

I hear ya...that's how this project started. I only need new bushings on my trailing arms and I figured, "well, while I'm at it..." I wasn't planning to jump on anything until January because I'll be traveling for work and the holidays, but nothing really prevents me from getting a kit together before then. I won't be able to confirm if everything fits until the Thanksgiving weekend, but the steering link is the only thing I have any concern over. How soon would you need it?

Solid info, much appreciated! I think it's close enough to work. Still curious to hear what else Paul's looking for. Saw his post in the Random R50 pics thread with an idea to black out the rails and such. Maybe a more striking tone or body colored? What about billet grilles/inserts? According to this guy, a Hardbody bed fits a Pathfinder no problem. Those body lines are seamless, but his departure angle took a small dive. At least he can still tow a boat.

Don't know why it didn't cross my mind earlier, but just go here: http://www.nissanusa.com/recalls-vin. The dealership will cover the costs of any recalls. I've got an 04 SE and mine turned up negative. Though, that's not to say a recall is still in the works...I haven't been following the issue closely.

Best you can do at this point is wait for your VIN to be called if it's affected...and drive safe.

That's a great looking truck! You'd be my hero if you got those fan numbers for me. My dad says the bolt pattern on the Frontier appears to be the same, but I think the fan diameter is less (4-cyl). I'm probably making a fuss over a fan with several more years on it, but the last time something self-destructed under my hood (power steering idler pulley bearing), it wasn't a fun experience (whatwasthatnoise+oh$4itwheresmysteering?!). Ha, and I used a bearing from a 240SX because they didn't sell one separately for a Frontier yet and the price on a new pulley assembly was outrageous. Oh, Nissan.

Awesome, thanks fellas. The subframe spacers in particular I think you guys are going to like. The pic shows 3/16" thick steel, and those are going to be overkill. Quoting CDN_S4 from his build thread: "There's no kill like overkill!". I'm going to drop down to 11ga (.120) steel going forward, which means I'll have a set of Super Beef Limited Edition subframe spacers for someone special. Shall I paint them gold, too? While 11ga sounds underwhelming, it's the same thickness as the subframe and unibody. Since the spacers will have rigid cores, it'll be plenty strong. Y'all just have to wait for more pics. Since I'm not doing the welding, I'm also having to wait to see the parts. Tomorrow I'm planning to order up the steering link, which is the last thing I need to order. The steering link has been possibly the most time consuming part to research (and also the most expensive). I was hoping to find a compatible Nissan link or components, but the Pathfinder steering setup is too unique. The steering link will be the same high-quality link that KRFabs provides (but at a different length, of course). I crawled around the truck tonight to compare the new brake lines with what's installed. Looks like it will be a perfect fit. Per their specs, they should be 2" longer up front and 6" in the rear. It looks like it may also be possible to get another 1-2" up front with a simple bracket. The rear line will be 6" longer. I won't know with absolute certainty that everything fits until I get into it, but it's looking good.

Oh yeah, and Paul, I hear you about wanting that unique look. I remember seeing a thread around here with pics from a Middle Eastern group that got together at the dunes one day. Some of the pics looked like a line-up at the dealership. What sorts of mods are you looking for anyway? Aesthetic, performance, utility, other?

Sorry, Precise1, I was speaking in general about aftermarket parts compatibility across different makes. I know Paul was asking more for cross-Nissan, though. To your point, I'm certain there are plenty of things from a WD21 that carry over, especially in regards to the engine and drivetrain. I even know firsthand that WD21 UCAs fit a 1998 Frontier 2WD, but are too long...with an elongated LCA, though, it'd have given for more lift (and travel) than my Fabtech lift ever did. I've also done a few conversions (AT to MT, 4-lug to 5-lug, KA24DE to SR20DET) on 240SXs (S13 and S14) to know about Nissan's craftiness. Even recently, I've been looking to seeing if an Altima or Maxima steering link would be a cheaper replacement over a new steering link for the SFD. And as mentioned, I'm in a similar struggle to find a different radiator fan option. If your sig truck still looks like that today, I'd let you prove your point by measuring the fan blade diameter and mounting pattern for me (please?).

By the way, I meant "anyone" in the OEM/aftermarket world, not us good folks here on the forum. I think we're all excited when we find out something actually does fit our trucks, even if it's not supposed to. To touch on your other questions: no, a Frontier/Navara bar won't work as-is (framed chassis vs. unibody). You'd likely need to cut the mounts and weld new ones, or fab up some brackets. If you can find an LSD from one, an Xterra, or Pathfinder (in your case, possibly even a Patrol if they exist), you might be in luck. Despite different rear suspensions, the 3rd members on the axles (assuming they're H233B axles) may be interchangeable depending on the splined axle shaft sizes. F/N/X/P's share the same front axle family name (R200A) but they're different in mounting styles and low vs high pinion. There's a front Lokka available for it though, and on the cheap right in your backyard, and a good write-up on how to install it on a couple forums.

The other problem is that the Pathfinders alternate between framed and unibodied chassis, so even then, you're generally limited to only R50 parts unfortunately, and the 2 sub-generations created a minor rift in part numbers, although the parts are nearly identical. I've been spending a good amount of time lately trying to cross-reference near-compatible parts. MANY parts are not specifically for R50, but similar parts are within a reasonable tolerance, or otherwise are only different because of simple dimensions (and may be exactly what is needed anyway). Nissan uses metric sizes of course, but what you'll find is that there's usually enough tolerances to fit Imperial sizes nicely (except on bolt/nut threads of course). That helps open up some possibility for other parts. You'd be surprised about what's possible just by using Nissan's online parts database, other online parts dealers, and specs that aftermarket suppliers readily provide. Case in point: I'll soon be using OEM brake lines from two other Nissans models, shocks for an older Ford F-250, and steering u-joints sized for Toyota and older Datsuns (although not from those vehicles; new parts). I'm also hoping to fit a radiator fan for a VG30/33 on a VQ35 to save up to $70, but no one's been willing to help get me some dimensions there and specs aren't available online. The only part needing any work will be the shocks, and that's just switching around the bushings so I don't have to mount it upside down. Anyway, bottom line is that you just have to be creative in your search. Forget about anyone saying "this part fits", it won't happen here. That said, looking for anything in particular?

I've gotten a good idea why others aren't going with the 4" kit, but is a smaller kit any more compelling? I've been piecing together a 2.5" SFD for my 04 SE and will install it at the end of the month. I'll be test fitting a 1.5" version while I'm at it. I'm considering putting together a few kits if there's a demand. The kits would include all new hardware, subframe and motor mount spacers, and a new steering link. There are no strut spacers included because this is geared towards guys already running a lift and looking to correct their CV angles. But you could add your own strut spacers for more lift if desired (that's what I'm doing). Metric Class 10.9 and OEM hardware to replace all subframe fasteners with as few bolts as possible. Welded subframe spacers for better strength, better unibody pad contact, and the same amount of material as a simple tube (or less/lighter with thinner gauge steel). Front and rear extended brake lines (pending fitment). A spacer to keep your skid plate. And even rear bump stop extensions (something often overlooked). Targeting a price under $400 for everything. I may do a budget-friendlier variant that uses additional US Imperial Grade 8 hardware, simple tube spacers, and less of the latter stuff. But my personal kit will be as above. So...anyone interested? Questions? I'd love to know what other concerns (costs, installation, safety) that might keep people on the fence if these options existed. Oh, and...

Stumbled across these on eBay tonight. This could be a pretty sweet deal. (No, this isn't my auction, and I don't know the guy. For reals.) The part numbers on his invoice have AC's part numbers for the R50 kit and hardware. Sucks that the pic has everything still wrapped, but the bushings on the right have the same blue-ish purple-ish tint of the SuperPro bushings that AC sells, and the hardware looks legit. It also looks like he got them cheaper than what AC sells them for today. The listing came up as a recommended item because I recently bought these poly bushings off eBay. (This isn't my auction either, and I don't know the seller. I swear I'm not here for shameless plugs.) Has anyone tried the ones I bought? The price was about $30 cheaper than new upper and lower arms from RockAuto (which I spent on the HF sawzall I'll need to surgically remove the OE ones ), and they're poly. They appear to be a solid set, but I'll know more when they're installed later this month. Also, if you plan on replacing hardware, these are the Nissan P/Ns and quantities: 4x 54368-0W02A: Lower link front bolt L&R, Upper link rear bolt L&R 4x 55080-0W00B: Lower link rear bolt L&R, Upper link front bolt L&R 8x 08918-6441A: Rear link flange nuts Nissan gives a bunch of alternate parts for a particular bolt or two that are several bucks more expensive, but I don't see any physical difference between bolts on my truck (nor why one link would have a different, and more expensive bolt), and I recently measured all of them. Four short and four long. I'll know in a couple days for sure when the parts arrive...$23 bucks from courtesyparts.com (vs. $36 from AC) before shipping.

Good to hear, bushnut. I may replace mine too while I'm doing all my suspension work soon. I noticed the other day that my sway bar had shifted over a good bit may have damaged them (though I don't have any noise). Might just go poly while I'm at it. I'm also going with poly LCA bushings that AC sells. They're manufactured by SuperPro, and the price is actually pretty competitive. No one else was selling them for less, or had them available. New arms cost about the same, but of course there's the work of getting the front bushings out...

Yeah, the picture's not great, but the leak doesn't look brownish or blackish enough to be oil. Looks greenish and thin from that angle. I'd check for coolant leaks around the radiator hoses fittings on the block and water pump housing. Don't forget to check around the hose clamps.

That sucks. After seeing this post linked from the other thread, I was planning on picking up a set, too. The website's got a pretty solid price compared to RockAuto stuff. They give any timeframe for getting them re-stocked?

Ha, you can actually get this measurement just by peeking over the radiator fan, and the fan screw holes do go through the clutch. Can anyone with a VG please take a look and see if they can measure between the screw holes (center-center)? Looks closer to 106mm, 4-3/6"-ish.