hawairish

I just used the Scosche one...don't recall the p/n, but you can use Crutchfield to figure it out. It was a couple bucks on eBay. Never tested connections without it, though, after reading about similar installs. Worked perfectly for me (also have the Bose system) Isn't the one you linked for maintaining steering wheel controls? I think that also requires a power feed. I didn't retain my controls; it didn't need any wiring except speaker.

Agreed. Maybe it's a max in the FSM? I think I stayed around the 100-110 range on mine, which is on par with other parts using the same size bolts (like hardware for the rear traction bars).

There are a few posts on it, but if you're thinking about the KRFabs kit, check their FAQ for details about their spring adapter for using modified (cut) WJ lift coils. I have a smaller SFD and just use 2" spring spacers on the rear OME springs (OME springs up front with 2" of strut spacers), produced a small rake to the front (my preference so it sits level when loaded up at about 250lbs).

No problem, man. I'm from a line of handymen and tradesmen, so I can relate. Working on vehicles is something I enjoy...I also enjoy not getting bent over at the dealership, so I learn to do whatever I can when I can. It started with a stereo in my dad's Mazda 323, then boomed when I got my Frontier after high school. Though I also dabble in making other things, these days. Right now, my head is wrapped around a line-up of utility parts for other R50 owners. If I didn't have other priorities, I'd quit my day job and go buy a welder. (Working on the latter first soon...) I'm guessing you're in state with lots of trees? Haha...having lived in CA and AZ for so long, I remember being shocked when I moved to MN...no emissions test there either. I don't even recall an inspection. Do they even plug into the OBDII to check for issues? I'm just excited that I only have to do emissions every other year.

I had the same problem when doing my SFD. You'll have to use the "Tightening Torque of Standard Bolts" table in the General Information section of the FSM. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be a wealth of quick knowledge regarding the 4T, 7T, and 9T grades that it mentions, so I had to make a few assumptions: 1. Those grades are JIS equivalents of metric classes like 8.8 and 10.9 2. The table accounts for the nearly all bolts on the vehicle 3. The subframe hardware is of 9T grade. For you, I'm also assuming that bolts for a 97 are the same as an 04. I have OEM subframe bolts sitting around, and none have the markings indicated in the FSM. Both use a 19mm socket. The front subframe bolts are M12x1.25 and use a flange nut that should be tightened to 101 ft*lbs per the 97 FSM (96 ft*lbs per the 04 FSM). The rear subframe bolts are M14x1.5 and should be tightened to 130 ft*lbs per the 97 FSM (125 ft*lbs per the 04 FSM).

Sorry, I was having a brain fart when I was typing that. I was thinking 9v batteries but erroneously typing and using 6v to do the math. Scratch all that... Your best bet is this: http://www.radioshack.com/enercell-12vdc-vehicle-power-adapter-plug-w-leads-and-switch/2700049.html. This way you can just use your truck's battery via cigarette socket, and it's fused. I keep old cigarette adapters around in case I need to rig something like this up, but normally I just use a DC multi-volt wall adapter I have. By the way, I took a quick peek under my truck...the canister and goods are in plain sight right where I expected, and easily accessible. Doubt it's any different on yours. When you get a chance, of course... Sorry to hear about your sister; hope things get on the up and up.

IIRC, it's pretty centered, near the tail of the transmission. But the transmissions were different between 4wd and 2wd now that I think about it. And I think the 4wd had linkages for the t-case, so it'd fit off to the side. I pulled the transmission down once to change the clutch, but also to replace the front and rear seals. Also not-fun jobs.

Now that I think about it, my shifter was centered, too. The hole in the carpet was offset, which means maybe the Frontier one might sit a little offset on yours. Hopefully your local JY has some to check out.

The size of the shifter bezel looks about right; if anything, I'd think the Frontier one might be just a little bigger. The arch of the tunnel looks about right, too. Though, is your shifter centered in that bezel/boot, or is it offset to the passenger side a little? I wouldn't think so because aside from going from KA24E to KA24DE, I think the 5-speed was the same (and the same for 4WD models). It's interesting looking at those pics...aside from the obvious aesthetic changes from 93 to 98, I definitely see the core of the Frontier in it. I know because I've removed seriously every part of the interior (including carpet, headliner, rear panels, and ECU) for various installations and repairs. Memories.

Wow. Looks like I need to start selling camber bolts to AUS... I bought a pair on eBay for like $12, shipped. Haven't installed them; not sure if I'll need them but going to try for an alignment this week.

You bet. This is from the brochure: The shifter bezel is obviously for a 4wd, but same 2-piece setup. Since the Frontier was a minor redesign of the HB, all the tunnel dimensions should be just about the same. There's probably a bunch of stuff that carried over. What's your interior look like anyway?

I'll take a crack at it, noting I've never crawled around an R51. Let's use the FSM as our reference...this will help you cut to the chase on what to do. There's a lot of info, and it can be overwhelming. EC-30 shows where the EVAP control solenoid is. Looks like you have to remove some plastic to see it on the engine. EC-32 shows a more precise position for the solenoid. It appears to be towards the front of the engine (item 1), between the cylinder banks, with a tube running to a service port (item 2) joint near the oil filler cap (item 3). Also on EC-32 are the location of the rest of the EVAP components at the rear of the vehicle. The point of reference appears to be from above the frame, and since I can see what appears to be a coil spring and lower control arm for the suspension, these components will be on the driver's side behind the rear tire and fuel filler, mounted up on the frame. I imagine the cross member in the picture is before where the spare tire is mounted (or perhaps the tire hoist is on that cross member). The canister (item 7) is a black rectangular black box the likely obscures the pressure sensor (item 5) and control valve (item 6), since these are probably mounted above that, or on it. EC-46 gives a better system description, that should help you trace some hoses. If you can identify the fuel tank and canister, you should be able to see/access the related components, hoses, and wiring. EC-47 and EC-48 indicate the exact locations (ha, I'm typing this as a scan the FSM, so I'll just leave all the stuff above and make this the "a-ha!" moment). The latter page also shows the routing to the engine bay. EC-224 is the start of EVAP-related P codes. Although you're throwing P0455, some other P codes troubleshooting may be of interest. For instance, if you suspect the solenoid as being bad, a separate P code may cover its troubleshooting steps. They're all related. EC-233 has a sketch of the canister. EC-265 is for P0455. I'd print out that section. The first page has a list of possible causes...you can cross a few off (though I'd never mentally cross any off). The possible causes is great starting point, since a few of these suggestions are not specifically mentioned in the diagnostic procedures, instead generically as "inspect". EC-266 has the diagnostic procedure. If you took your car to the dealership, this is exactly what they would do. I would step through this, even repeating the gas cap tests. Follow the "Without Consult-III" steps. For steps requiring pressurization...your local AutoZone probably has a basic hand pump with gauge to rent for $0. The steps will also indicate if you need to refer to other EC pages for processes. For the 12V tests, two 6V batteries and cheap snap-on terminals from Radio Shack, wired in series with a little extra wiring, is all you need. You just need to supply a small voltage to listen/feel for a click. Lastly, EC-483 (EVAP Leak Check) and EC-484 (EVAP Canister) have basic inspection steps. Definitely check this section out, especially if you suspect anything with the canister. Hopefully your answer is in the diagnostic procedure. I'd imagine that even if you've never done this before, you could probably have everything tested and inspected in 1, maybe 2 hours. This is a pretty DIY process; just read things closely. The code isn't hurting anything on the truck, and the light is just more of a nuisance than anything at this point. If it were throwing an engine code, then I'd be worried. But emissions stuff?...meh, small beans on these vehicles. Fact is, it probably hasn't altered anything about engine performance. It's definitely not worth taking it to a dealership unless you don't want to do this, or if the cost of replacing a part exceeds your $100 deductable (and is covered by your warranty, of course), or if you're due for emissions testing soon and just need it done. Good luck and keep us posted.

Nope, it's two pieces. The shifter bezel has a large cup holder and a little tray about the size of an older iPhone (to the left of the shifter). The center console has two cupholders. You can see a little carpet between the two, but unfortunately I don't have a better picture of the split: Yep, it's stock and what came with the truck (a King Cab). Here's the parts explosion from Nissan: http://parts.nissanusa.com/nissanparts/?action=replacement&groupid=N&sectionid=969&jointvehid=9808&siteid=14 There was a similar model that had a shorter storage box and two more cupholders molded in the rear (same length of the console overall), but not sure what years it was in...perhaps a Crew Cab or X? Not very useful for a Std or KC, though. You'd also need some brackets underneath, if you went that route. For the shifter bezel, it's integrated into a large metal trim ring that also held a rubber seal over the transmission. It's a pain to remove; you have to pull back the carpet a good amount to get to the 10mm bolts. You'd be better off fabbing something with sheet metal or L-brackets. For the center console, you can see the two metal brackets in the parts explosion; no problems detaching those.

Gotcha. Would this work for you? This is from my Frontier, also MT with the e-brake on the dash. I'd take dimensions, but it's a few states away. I wouldn't be surprised if it was a direct bolt-in, since the floor pans should be very similar if not the same. You may also have options from Frontiers and Xs up to 00, including some integrated consoles that don't have the shifter bezel and center console separate like shown.

Are you pulling the same code again, and where there multiple codes? The fact that the MIL didn't come on after a few trips is a good sign...and evap leak at the gas cap triggers a 1st-trip DTC I believe. The hose locations vary, but as adamzan mentioned, they can split pretty easily. If the split isn't bad/long and there's enough slack, I just cut of the end and re-attach. For the sensors, the FSM should tell you exactly how to test each sensor. It usually requires a voltmeter and sometimes a 12V power source; it'll specify the voltages or resistance to look for and at which condition. The FSM should also have a matrix for telling you what to check first.

My hunch is that the 96-00 PFs are where you'll need to start. I have an 04, and the center console looks almost identical, but they are different in the way the meet up with the dash. Here's a better angle from a 97: On mine, the center console has little wings at the front that integrate into the dash. If your dash and center console are anything like my 98 Frontier 2wd, the shifter bezel is not connected to the dash or center console. That's how it appears to be in the pic. The length of my console from the most-forward point (where the tip of the tape measure is tucked) is 38", but I'd imagine the 96-00 consoles to be closer to 34" judging by the pic below (sorry for the blur). Hopefully someone else can confirm. Are you just looking for a place to add some switches?

Ha, wish you would've asked yesterday...I had the console completely out to swap around my power receptacles (one has been replaced by a USB/AUX pod for my radio), and also to fix my shifter (wouldn't alwyays disengage from park). I will get you measurements today. I think I've got the same curiosity as you...the shifter bezel on older models had 3 panel holes between the dash and shifter. When I had everything apart, it seems like the holes would interfere with the shifter, since there's some sort of tray on the shifter that would interfere (and ends up being covered by the bezel anyway). I've got the ashtray between the shifter and cup holders, but haven't yet seen the other console configuration you mentioned. I've been thinking about some future switch locations myself. Decided I'm going to replace the DIN pocket with a blank for adding other accessories, like AMPS mounting holes for a GPS, additional switch holes (for OEM or non-OEM switches), or 12V sockets (or for other socket-sized accessories, like a dual USB 1A/2.1A charging port). I was toying with the idea of making some made-to-order configurations. I'll also post some pics up, just in case.

Really nice looking bumper. When I cross that bridge, this is very much what I'd like to end up with.

Thanks XPLORx4. I was semi-joking about the R51 being fatties, but I knew why. At linear compression, there's no way Nissan added several hundred pounds to the rear of the vehicle (assuming the curb weights were about the same). But definitely good info for CDN_S4 in case he was still considering something crazy...(now waiting for the first R50 IRS lift/swap write-up).

That does suck, man, especially because of shipping and customs. I'd find a fellow Canadian and recoup as much of that as possible. Sit on them until the deal is right. Or maybe take a drive across the border and ship them from Maine? (Ha, is that even legal? The return address is probably a give-away.) Unfortunately, you won't be able to use them, even if you had a magic wand in your tool box. I'd be pretty sure the ID/OD is too small (you need about 5" ID, 6" OD). But even if it's close, ARB lists the 2610 spring you've got at just under 4x the OE spring rate for an R50! (460 lbs/in vs 120 lbs/in). By comparison, the R50 OME MD spring is 140 lbs/in. So even if you installed them by some miracle, the first speed bump would launch the rear of your vehicle over the front...unless your tire carrier weighs 600lbs by chance. Which begs the off-topic question: are R51 fatties or something? (And I still don't understand how a IFS/IRS PF gets more love than we do.)

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Shall we wait for the first R51 rear spring swap for an R50? I'm certain the "can I make it fit?" question has already crossed your mind.

As djratlif mentioned, aftermarket caps are hit or miss. I've used Stant caps with good luck; dirt cheap compared to OEM. $36 from your dealer sounds steep for OEM, too...I'd think they're closer to $20-$25 online. The Stant was a few bucks (and 5% off coupon for Rock Auto in the vendor's section). I actually just replaced mine the other week; it was throwing a similar code on my R50 (I had a hunch my old cap was too loose even before the MIL came on). How is the fitting on the cap when you both tighten and loosen? (What's the brand and p/n, btw?) If it comes off too easily after it clicks closed, that could be a sign of a bad fit. Your local emissions station may also be able to test it (for a fee?), but otherwise, I'd just keep the receipt and the old cap. I also wouldn't go replacing anything evap-related without first just checking all the hose fittings on the evap stuff. A lot of that stuff is just hoses. The canister you're talking about should be close to the fuel tank at the rear of the vehicle; the FSM should show it's exact placement. It's usually just a black box with some hoses coming from it. Also, you won't hurt anything by driving it under this condition. The ECU might make minor alterations to the fuel delivery, but nothing that would damage the engine. You're also fine reseting the code as you did (hopefully without the other battery issues!), though you might be more content just letting the AutoZone guys doing that for you with a scanner. Also, some codes trigger at first detection and take multiple (usually >3) detections to turn off the MIL. On a parting thought, and just to be sure, you are turning off the vehicle before opening the cap, and not starting it while the cap is off? Those will immediately throw a code.

You might want to stop the presses...those are the HD springs for the R51. It's the snot green background. There's only one option for the R50 (same price though). (Admittedly, I've done the exact same double-take on that page before.)

Heh, sorry, I meant to imply that I didn't know HD rear springs existed, only MD. The fronts had 3 flavors, though. P/N 2922?

You do NOT need to remove the upper links or bump stops as seen in the pics. They're off because I was changing the bushings and extending the bump stop, while adding spring spacers. Removing them doesn't make it easier (removing a link, let alone a single bolt link, is a B.. as is) You will need 4 jack stands and a good floor jack. Two jacks support the unibody under the rear doors, and two will support the axle. The factory scissor jack will work, but I'd avoid using it. You want the full weight of the vehicle on the axle when you put the axle on jack stands, and probably the jack stands at their top point. (You don't have to worry about this toppling over, either...the links and PHB keep everything stationary.) I mentioned to put it between the shock mount and hub, but I now remember needing to move it inward against the shock mount, as shown in the top pic to get a better pivot point. You can see the silver jack stand in the back of the first pic...the truck is just barely off that on the driver's side; on the passenger side, it's still on a jack stand and prevents the body from rolling. Use the jack to lower down one side of the axle until the spring is loose (or the hub is on the ground), then lift the spring up to clear the lower pad before pulling it down/out. A rubber mallet adds some persuasion if needed; you can also loosen/remove the bump stop (12mm socket and short extension) for wiggle room. If the hub is suspended in the air and the jack is down, just lean on the brake drum a little...the link bushings will flex...just mind the brake line. From there, put the spring back in, jack up that side of the axle to put the jack stand back, then repeat on the other side. Also...OME "HD" springs?